19 Oct. 1978|
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Wood, especially cedar, holds a lot of chemicals, some which flow to the surface and right through several coats of exterior paint. The job of the primer is to act as an intermediary between the wood substrate and the topcoat. A good primer also improves the topcoat's ability to resist surface moisture and the resulting mildew, a feature that is key in the Pacific Northwest and the Southeast. For example, Revnew says, if the enameled door receives the wrong type of primer (one with high hiding qualities but lower adhesion), the primer could fail, taking the enamel finish with it. There are primers for plastics, concretes, drywall, old paint and any other surface you might encounter. Acrylic latex products are gaining market share in primers just as they are in finish coatings. In states without VOC restrictions, Kelly-Moore recommends its alkyd-based primer, Weather Shield. On the other end of the spectrum, some leading manufacturers still make what could be described as an old-fashioned oil-based primer made with linseed oil.
Surfaces that show flaking, cracking or blistering should be carefully scraped, wire-brushed or sanded down to bare wood before priming for the finish coat. To remedy this problem, the company took the same product and modified it with higher volumes of alkyd to produce Trouble-Shooter Fast Drying Alkyd Primer, which has a recoat time of just four hours. For those who prefer soap-and-water cleanup, California Paints offers Troubleshooter 100% Acrylic Exterior Primer. Most other primers for exterior wood are somewhere in the middle, either an alkyd base, a water base, or an oil base with alkyd and other additives. Pittsburg Paints offers its Seal Grip line of primers in both acrylic and synthetic formulas, and advertises one-hour recoat times. Whenever priming bare exterior wood, keep in mind that this first application will dictate the appearance of the structure for years to come.
Best Primer For Exterior Wood Door Design are actually perfect for obtaining a superb search that may mimic a little something you like; however, it's not entirely obtainable commercial.
Wood doors can only be made from wood which has been dried out properly the wood includes a pure tendency to keep moisture.
Primers are specially formulated paint products that are used to prepare surfaces for the finish coat of paint.
Primers also act to seal pores in wood and other permeable materials as well as to prevent stains, knots, and wood tannins from bleeding through. Every unfinished surface—including wood, drywall, metal, and concrete—should be primed before painting. Previously painted surfaces may not require priming unless you’re switching between oil-based or latex paint, or the existing paint is failing. While it used to be necessary to apply oil-based primers over oil-based paint and latex primers over latex paints, many primers today allow you to switch between them as long as you prepare the surface properly.
At first glance applying primer may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it actually saves money as well as time. These slow drying primers release volatile organic compounds in the air and require mineral spirits for cleanup and thinning.
These fast drying, water-soluble primers have come along way in recent years and are now available in low and no-VOC formulas. Latex primers are the best choice for unfinished drywall, since they act to even out the texture and sheen between the wallboard and joint compound. I’ve had similar problems in the past, and while I can’t speak for every brand of sealer, you can prime over latex paint with Zinsser B-I-N (a shellac based product) and Cover-Stain (an oil based product). I am painting over doors and trim that were painted with oil 12 years ago, I lightly sanded, primed with Kilz 2 and applied one coat of Dunn Edwards latex semi-gloss.
I am a professional painter and want to know if anyone knows of any waterbase primer that will not raise the grain of wood.
We’ve just painted a ceiling with oil-based primer over a wall-papered ceiling and a coat of paint.
You can use an oil based primer under a latex paint, but if it’s very humid, it will take a long time (probably days at least) to dry. If you’re trying to match the color of the primer to the color of the finished coat, you should have the paint store add colorant to the primer to tint it closer to the final color rather than mixing the primer and topcoat together.
Most deck stains penetrate into the wood to some degree, so pressure washing will not take remove all of it.
You can paint over the old paint, just be sure that if the original finish was oil-based (see test in article above), you use a primer first that will bond to it, rather than just latex paint.
Hi – We have three windows with wood frames that face E and get strong sun in the summer and plenty of snow and rain the rest of the year. It’s always a good idea to clean (to remove any wax, furniture polish, or dirt) and lightly sand surfaces with fine sandpaper (180-220 grit) before priming.
The first time we primed and painted our smokey popcorn ceiling it took many gallons of primer to block the stains.
An unpainted popcorn ceiling will soak up a lot of paint when you first prime it, but once the first coat has dried, subsequent coats should take much less. You should be able to put either a shellac or oil-based primer on top of the latex primer to stop the stain from bleeding through. I would try sanding the border decorations down a bit with a sanding block and medium (120 grit) sandpaper to smooth the surface, then prime over it with a stain blocking primer to keep the colors from bleeding through. Read the instructions on the can to be sure, but generally you can apply an oil-based paint over a latex primer, though personally if I’m planning on topcoating with oil-based paint, I would use an oil-based primer as well. Wood stains are designed to penetrate into the wood, rather than cover over a nonporous surface like paint. The smell will go away over time, but you might want to consider a low or no VOC primer and paint in the future to reduce the smell and improve your indoor air quality.
If by red iron you mean the posts came preprimed with a red colored primer, then all you have to do is topcoat them with a quallity oil-based or latex exterior paint. Three painting pros recommend the best primers to solve common painting problems, including stains on walls, moisture damage, old painted surfaces, odors, color changes and new exterior wood. But if you don't prime bare wood properly, you could end up with a very dissatisfied customer. Using the right primer in the right situation can make the difference between washed-out color with visible stains or a bright and durable finish. A topcoat on bare siding would in short order reveal "cedar bleed" as tree tannins escaped the wood. However, the primer selection narrows somewhat when you're looking for something designed specifically for exterior wood. And the wide variety of formulas based on linseed oil, alkyd, and acrylic ought to quash anyone's idea that primers are nothing more than low-grade paints.
Matt Crawford, architectural services representative at Kelly-Moore Paints, says that acrylic technology has made such improvements in the water-based coatings that these primers have "made for better performance and service life compared to oil and alkyd wood primers." Once applicators gain confidence in these acrylic products, they tend to stick with them, he says. Even so, California-based Kelly-Moore recommends California customers use its Acry-Shield line of primers. Ron Boyajian, product marketing manager for California Paints, describes this linseed oil-based primer as a premium high-performance product. Boyajian says the company's engineers were able to create the fast-drying formula without compromising the performance of the oil-based primer. In latex, it sells Fresh Start All Purpose 100% Acrylic Primer 023, and Moorcraft Super Spec Latex Exterior Primer 169.
Even the producers who are committed solely to acrylic products had nothing negative to say about the performance of oil-based primers.
Most manufacturers prefer their product to be sprayed for the best coverage and penetration.
Those plants, in order to stack the lumber in a timely way, are obviously using an inferior primer that dries in a very short time, experts like Boyajian say. So, you may ask for out of your elected wood organization your design and style and they're going to definitely be able to produce it ideal in front your door. It is also vital that the wood acclimates to the place temp of exactly where it's becoming built. When painting over interior oil-based woodwork with latex, be sure to sand or degloss the surface first, then paint with a bonding primer before topcoating with latex. A good coat of primer improves paint’s hide, or ability to cover, reducing the number of coats that are necessary to achieve a smooth finish. They produce a very smooth finish that does the best job of filling pores in bare wood while not raising the grain.
Latex primers are not as brittle as their oil or shellac-based cousins and provide a more flexible finish that is resistant to cracking. It is a good idea to lightly sand surfaces—followed by wiping off any dust with a tack rag or damp cloth—before applying primer.
If you primed it a year ago and didn’t go back and topcoat it with exterior paint within the time period recommended by the paint manufacturer, you would probably need to clean it thoroughly and reprime before painting, since primer should be topcoated within a set period of time. At a minimum the painter should prime all the bare surfaces before topcoating, and given how it peeled in the past, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to prime all of it. Sanding will make the surface smoother and allow the primer to adhere better to glossy surfaces.
If you already primed and painted your popcorn ceiling, you shouldn’t need to prime it again (unless it has developed smoke stains again or the existing stains bled through), just apply another coat of the ceiling paint on top of what is there. Both oil-based and latex products can perform well, though oil-based tends to peel more, since it’s impervious to water vapor coming through the wood from inside the house.
If they aren’t preprimed, use a wire brush and mineral spirits to remove any rust, then use a primer made for metal with a rust inhibitor, such as Rust-Oleum metal primer.
Most jobs involving sizable expanses of uncoated exterior wood are encountered in new construction. In addition, escaping moisture is liable to cause a finish paint to peel from most types of wood in a relatively short time if primer is not used first. For example, in many parts of California, the VOC limit on coatings has eliminated many oil- or alkyd-based wood primers unless formulated specifically to block tannin staining. Paint applied to unprimed surfaces tends to peel, crack, and chalk more than paint applied to properly primed surfaces.
Choosing which type to use is largely a matter of matching the primer’s characteristics to the project at hand.
Oil primers also provide a good barrier to keep tannins from certain woods from bleeding through.
This makes them suitable for priming bare softwoods, though test them first to see if they raise the grain or allow resin to bleed through. If the primer leaves the surface rough, lightly sand and dust it again before applying the finish coat.
I have been told to prime with exterior oil based primer then top coat with exterior latex. But the very next day after the paint is dry the spots that we use primer cannot be cover up with paint no matter how many time we paint it. You can find out more about primers, as well as an easy test to see if old paint is oil or latex, at Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer.
There are some finishes available that are basically a lightly tinted varnish, such as Minwax Polyshades that can build up color on top of the wood, but the more coats you apply, the more opaque the wood grain will become. If the walls feel rough after they are dry, sand them lightly with medium sandpaper (120 grit) until smooth before priming and painting. I am getting ready to paint it now, but it appears as if they used Latex Primer and I want to use Oil Based Paint.
In other words, when you apply an enamel topcoat to a primed door, you are applying the paint to the primer, not to the wood.
Even the most committed latex marketers agreed that there is nothing wrong with applying latex over an oil-based primer.
Oil primers roll on nicely, although Boyajian says he is not a fan of this method unless followed by a brushed coating.
Oil paint tends to peel more than latex outside, so I would go with a latex primer and top quality latex paint.
If there is no residue or staining from the wallpaper glue on the walls, latex wall primer should be fine. Reliable wood doors are made solely of wood, stable core doors together with wood placed on some kind of internal core including particle board. If you do decide to try and paint it, you should clean the deck and allow it to thoroughly dry, then use a stainblocking oil based primer.
Consumer Reports magazine (and their website, if you subscribe to it) regularly reviews exterior paints and stains, so you might want to check them out for particular brands. Oil or shellac based primers have much better stainblocking abilities, so use on of them if you have residue still on the walls that might bleed through.