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22 Jul. 2002

Acrylic urethane wood finish,little rascals boat race,refinish cedar - For Begninners

Finishing wood for interior applications serves the functions of (1) protecting the wood (mostly from liquids) and (2) enhancing the appearance of the wood. The plastic look people are referring to when they assert this claim is the result of high reflectivity or "gloss." It is just as accurate to say that wood that is finished with a high-gloss surface has a "wet look" or has a "glass look" (indeed, these adjectives are sometimes used to market wood finishes). Folks, all of these finishes are polymers, meaning they are comprised of long strings of carbon and hydrogen atoms, usually with some oxygen atoms thrown in. I am willing to bet that if one were to do an environmental lifecycle analysis of a quart of conventional petroleum-based urethane wood finish and compare it to a quart of some exotic tung-oil-based finish, the urethane would probably come out ahead. If you want a finish that penetrates a bit deeper, imparts more contrast to the grain in the wood, and is a little tougher, then use an oil-based polyurethane finish. First, the most important variable in determining finish quality is your care and patience. Minwax Fast-Drying Urethane (available in different sheens) - I like the appearance (darkens wood more than acrylics). Waterlox Original Tung-Oil Finish - this strikes me as quite similar to the Sutherland and Welles finish. If you want to read some some interesting descriptions of finishes by those who are really obsessive about them, check out these notes by Russ Fairfield on finishes. Appearance, performance, and ease of use are the most important considerations for marine wood coatings, and Bristol Finish is clearly the best choice. Bristol Finish urethane coatings are the finest exterior and interior wood coatings available today! Bristol Finish Traditional Amber Urethane is designed to deliver a beautiful finish to your wood using standard application techniques; however, there are also post-application procedures that may be used to eliminate minute defects from dust, as well as the blending of repairs.
Perform the standard application of Bristol Finish, applying two extra coats (up to eight). The success of any finishing project is very dependent on the condition of the surface that is going to be coated, as well as the preparation of the surface.

Any wood that is mounted to other structures such as deck areas should be properly bedded in compound that will keep moisture out of the back side of the piece. Basically, to get a great finish, you need to start with wood that is sanded very smooth (with at least 220 grit sandpaper).
Your first coat of finish is hopefully penetrating the surface of the wood somewhat and forming a composite layer of cellulose and the polymer that develops when the finish dries. The manufacturer makes pretty outlandish claims, mainly that this finish can be applied in a single wipe-on coat, and that it protects against water, etc. Wet sanding out small defects, then buffing out the sanding scratches back to a high gloss is a standard finish procedure for the most demanding applications. If desired, you may also use final finishing products such as UV resistant glazing and wax products. This is where Bristol Finish really delivers the payoff – a stunning appearance and very low maintenance.
If a varnish type finish is expected to hold up well in an exterior situation, the pieces must in effect be weatherproofed so that exposure to continual moisture doesn’t have a chance to lift the coating. If there is excessive movement in any joint areas, proper repairs should be made before the finishing project, otherwise the coating may crack and allow moisture entry. Don’t use any type of silicone caulk, as it offers no adhesion to wood, and is not paintable.
These prep steps will pay off for many years to come, and make that beautiful finish stay that way for a long time! Other than being too glossy for me (yes, plastic-y despite being a "natural" finish), it worked fine. Honestly, I think the reason some of the niche products survive is that there are lots of myths and superstitions about finishes, and because very few people try several different products side by side. The environmental footprint of the original feedstock from which the finish was made is probably pretty much irrelevant.

Realistically it takes two days of elapsed time to put even a basic finish on wood, even with a "fast drying" acrylic finish.
The dry time is not as good as the Minwax wipe-on urethane, and it's expensive, so I don't see a reason to use it over the Minwax.
It can stay on for long enough in the Caribbean sun to get the entire job finished, and be easily removed in a single piece.
Furthermore, most finishes are available in low-gloss versions, usually called "satin." So, the "plastic look" and the type of finish that is used on the wood are really two separate issues. Consider that roughly speaking a gallon of petroleum can make somewhat less than a gallon of wood finish and somewhat less than a gallon of gasoline. I like the wipe-on version because it has quite low viscosity, so is easy to apply, and seems to penetrate the wood very well.
Without all of the needless over-brushing, the finish will flow out like glass, with no bumps or lumps or brush marks. As a technical aside, virtually all wood finishes are polymers (molecules comprised of long chains of carbon and hydrogen molecules), which is a technical term that includes all "plastics." In fact, wood itself is a polymer (cellulose).
Your drive to Home Depot and back to buy the wood finish therefore probably consumed more petroleum than was used to make the finish itself.
This polymerization is inhibited if the layer of oil is too thick.) This finish is expensive and has limited distribution. Many finishes are thin enough that they work fine as sealers so you don't need to use a special product for the first coat.

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