Our electric ballast offers extensive application, reliable cold starting, high power factor, long life and wide range of operating voltage. The electric ballast is typically used in places like factories, plazas, shopping malls, courtyards, stations, and more. Founded in 1992, CNLIGHT is an experienced high power non-integrated lamps manufacturer located in China. The 3.6cm ultra-thin design for decorative ceiling light realizes the installation in the small space, making your room distinctive from others. The quality getter ensures it is clean inside the jlt-g12 ceramic metal halide lamp and the lamp has long life. All models feature our SMART Ballast which delivers precise input wattage to the UV lamp, maximizes UV-C output, resists failure due to water damage and comes with a 26 ft.
65, 120, and 150 watt lamps and quartz sleeves ship UPS oversize with additional handling fees.
119, and 200 watt lamps and quartz sleeves ship UPS oversize with additional handling fees. Even the promising and the most talked about LED technology is perhaps unable to produce lights equal to the modern electronic fluorescent ballasts lights. Just a decade ago electronic ballasts were relatively new and due to frequent failures and high costs were not generally preferred by everyone.
So what’s the exact advantage of using electronic flourescent ballast compared to the age old electrical ballast?
Electrical ballast is nothing but a simple high current, mains voltage inductor made by winding number of turns of copper wire over laminated iron core.
However, due to variation in voltages and lack of an ideal calculation, electrical ballasts can become quite inefficient, dissipating and wasting a lot of energy through heat. Electronic ballasts on the other hand are just the opposite as far as efficiency is concerned.
The current reading itself proves how efficient the circuit is, the power consumption being just around 30 watts and an output light equivalent to 50 watts. Its working principle of the proposed electronic flourescent ballast is rather straightforward. The following illustrations clearly explains how to build a homemade electronic 40 watt electronic fluorescent ballast circuit at home using ordinary parts. WARNING: PLEASE INCLUDE A MOV AND A THERMISTER AT THE SUPPLY INPUT, OTHERWISE THE CIRCUIT WILL BECOME UNPREDICTABLE AND MIGHT BLOW-OFF AT ANY MOMENT. ALSO, MOUNT THE TRANSISTORS OVER SEPARATE, 4*1 INCH HEATSINKS, FOR BETTER EFFICIENCY AND LONGER LIFE. 1.With stable working frequency, the electronic metal halide ballast eliminates the problem of flickering and offers comfortable lighting.
2.The electronic ballast provides constant power output, small color difference, stable lumen output, and lasting, quality lighting. The electronic metal halide ballast can be applied to shops, special and retail stores, halls, offices, theaters, stages, and public areas. Founded in 1992, CNLIGHT is a leading electronic metal halide ballast manufacturer in China.
The integrated UV lamp can be applied to air purification and surface disinfection of objects in kitchens and bedrooms.
The submersible UV Lamp are the perfect way to control free-floating micro-organism as well as disease causing pathogens.
Toilet cistern overflows not only waste water but increase the risk for slip-and-fall injuries. Every non-battery-powered electronic device requires converting offline ac power to some dc voltage for powering electronics. I have made these circuits as accessory for solar power projects since 1981, but most of them worked with bad efficiency or problems. This schematic is also used as lamp driver for scanners or some UV lighters, it is very common.
We have two very important capacitors, the primary side capacitor, making a resonant circuit with the transformer winding, and the secondary one, making ALSO a resonant circuit but as a series-resonant circuit with the lamp inside. A ceramic capacitor was taken, as I had no high-voltage high-quality foil-C’s at hand. The primary side C needs to be adjusted to equal resonance frequency as the secondary side, which needed (after some testing) 180nF.
All values refer to my transformer, you will need different values but you can use the same principles of selection. Using very rough voltage containing spikes all time, or using additionally a separate ionization wire on the lamp makes the filament heating unnecessary.
The air gap is selected to make the transformer insensitive to a certain amount of voltage asymmetry, and also to separate the primary and secondary winding magnetically. In half of this time (the conducting period of a transistor) we magnetize the core from -B to +B, so over a range of 2*B. The primary winding for one direction is assumed to be 7 turns, the applied voltage 12V, and the iron cross-section is here 52.6mm2.
The filament heaters should make 5 to 10 volts, using 7 turns was a bit too much, as this corresponds to 12V, could have been better 5 turns. The copper cross-sections have been determined using an excel and estimating which wire fits into which space.
The former had two chambers, so the primary and the secondary winding are insulated naturally well.

The feedback winding is on nearly same potential as the primary winding and a thin layer of lacquered paper between them is ok.
TIP3055 (2N3055 in different casing) far too slow, and unnecessarily generous in thermal inertia, not the correct choice here. This inductivity serves as a flywheel for the current when the transistors fully switch the primary winding ends to full voltage. The lamp needs to be started by making a very short short-circuit over the lamp, in such a way that the filaments get the full voltage.
I do this by hand using a separate starter button, but if someone needs it fully automatic, he might add a reed-relais and a circuit for generating a short pulse. This can only be estimated based on the heat generation of the components, and I would roughly guess that this might be around 1.5 to 2 W.
The choke shows double the switching frequency, as it supplies the current alternatively to both transistors. Some years ago I made an inverter with a separate oscillator, driving one transistor on 16kHz, which is not audible any more besides for very young persons. There was a normal fluorescent lamp with a normal starter and a choke, running on 230V 50Hz. In Finland there is usually no light in the attic or only a small bulb, so you need a flashlight when you search something in your storage space.
With this you may reduce the main secondary voltage to something just about 2x the lamp arc voltage, as it is no longer needed for the initial ionization.
As the main secondary has reduced voltage, it can feed current into the discharge only, when the electrodes really emit enough electrons just from the thermionic basis.
First assume lamp being lit and (a simplification just for the explanation below) the lamp arc, as well as filaments have nearly zero impedance (in the real circuit, they are really not that far from that, compare to the other circuit variables). As the frequency is everywhere the same, the capacitors impedance is reverse proportional to their value.
But if you look into the current flowing to the lamp terminal currents, you will see either no current in the inward connected terminals.
That means the only current is the arc current, nothing to feed the filaments (so in the simplification above the zero filament impedance is not important). You see, with that arrangement the lamp filaments get power before ignition, but that power disappear once the lamp lights. The schematic from Lazar should work but in my opinion 1 capacitor is missing – the primary resonant capacitor across the primary winding. Full closed encapsulation technique is used to ensure fast dissipation, high reliability and safety operation of the ballast.
We can produce a wide variety of products, such as LED lighting, UV lamp, indoor mini air purifier, and more.
DIYTrade accepts no responsibility whatsoever in respect of such content.To report fraudulent or illegal content, please click here. The circuit of one such electronic tube light is discussed here, with efficiency better than LED lights. But with passing time the device went through some serious improvements and the results were encouraging as they started becoming more reliable and long lasting.
To understand the differences correctly it is important to know how ordinary electrical ballasts work. Basically, as we all know a fluorescent tube requires a high initial current thrust to ignite and make the electrons flow connect in between its end filaments. The starter stops functioning once the tube gets ignited and now since the ballast is routed via the tube, starts getting a continuous flow of AC through it and due to its natural attributes offers high impedance, controlling the current and helping sustain optimal glow. If you actually measure you will find that a 40 watt electrical choke fixture may consume as high as 70 watts of power, almost double the required amount. With years of rich experience, we are happy to be able to make superior light fixture, double capped fluorescent lamp, LED spotlight, and UV sterilizer, to name a few.
Now, after 32 years, I made some systematic measurements and wrote down the key points to eliminate problems. It needs to be selected to get the whole circuit into the correct frequency, for which it had been designed. It was replaced later (the photos still show the ceramic one) because of too high losses, became hot. In the middle is the primary voltage without any primary capacitor, measured over one transistor. This is because a fluorescent lamp can become easily asymmetric by wear, and then acts like a diode and takes a DC part of the current. For steady-state operation the voltage can be reduced to about half, or switched off completely. The available space has to be used fully, but the feedback winding can be kept a bit thinner as it carries less current.
One is on the same potential as the secondary winding, but the other one is separated by the C. It was very difficult, and finally one of my friends found a French radio amateur, who still had these in his stock. Without the choke, the voltage would try to become rectangular, but it should be sinusoidal. The lamp will experience a short strong filament heating and an inductive voltage peak after releasing the short-circuit current from the transformer.
In the conducting phase the voltage is very close to zero, looking closer it is around 0.5V.

And as all windings are on a common core, voltages are proportional to the number of turns. In reality, when the lamp isn’t really zero impedance, some current may remains, but it will be very low, so practically with no contribution to the filament power. As the main secondary capacitor is effectively missing, the frequency gets way higher, so the filament current becomes higher too (limited just by the filament resistance). Also, the electric ballast provides low loss, compact structure, minimum noise, and easy installation. The PCB layout of the proposed electronic fluorescent ballast is also provided along with the torroid and the buffer choke winding details. Once this conduction is connected the current consumption to sustain this conduction and the illumination becomes minimal. There are for example resonances by winding capacities, by coincidence of a tuned circuit with a switching frequency, influence of the lamp capacity, of the leakage flux and saturation properties of the ferrite core etc. This would drive the small ferrite transformer into asymmetry; one side of the push-pull arrangement would magnetize it more into saturation than the other side. The filaments are heated by the gas discharge also, but on an inverter I would recommend a steady small heating voltage, as the lamp operates more stable, has less tendency to flicker. Using an old flyback transformer from a TV or monitor limits your frequency to about 20 kHz. You could predict the magnetization current, or make a more accurate simulation model of the little transformer. The feedback, as a rule of thumb, shall be 40-50% of the power winding for 12 V level, I used 4 turns.
As a rule of thumb, try to get equal copper losses in both primary and secondary winding if you have the choice. As universal meters show wrong with non-sinusoidal voltage of over 30 kHz, the best way to determine the efficiency is to put the inverter into an insulated box over some time, measure the temperature rise and calculate the thermal inertia of all components from their materials. This will ionize the gas inside, but the current will be very limited (just by the capacitance to that electrode, so few 10’s of pF). The rectified DC is applied to this stage which immediately starts oscillating at the required high frequency.
Radio amateurs call this a C-mode operation (A is proportional like an audio amplifier, B is mixed and C is pure switching). Using still wrong size capacitors, it worked first at 100 kHz, then at 15, but finally with the correct value at 37kHz which was close enough to my aim. This is not optimum, so I added a primary capacitor (still too small) and the result was like the right-hand sketch: there is a superposition of the oscillation of the primary and secondary side.
The diagram does not tell us if it is for rectangular or sinusoidal voltage, also not if it is based on a push-pull magnetization (both directions) or with a simple forward-converter (one direction).
Here I used laquered paper of 0,04mm thickness all over both cores, making 0.08mm distance between the two E-cores. Just 3 would have possibly been enough, but to be on the safe side I used 4 and prepared for adding some resistors. In case of a two-chamber former, fill it up but leave some space for cover insulation against the core. The current goes down at equal brightness, when you reduce unnecessary filament heating to a reasonable minimum. It is not a resistive load, but nonlinear regarding voltage, and also having its own impedances.
I found in a book that the voltage of this converter (having a sharp peak to one polarity and a longer moderate voltage of reverse polarity) generates a short overload of the current density of one filament (the one which happens to be connected to the pulse side of the secondary winding).
Every second half-wave was stronger than the former one, so the lamp was obviously acting partly as diode and saturating the choke in one direction.
The starting properties depend on temperature, and if you want to be sure that your circuit works, test it in winter. Here in the very south (Helsinki) we have still moderate climate and people use fluorescents outside for house or garage lighting.
The oscillations are typically square wave which is appropriately buffered via an inductor before it is finally used to ignite and illuminate the connected tube.
But you can see that if we would double the frequency and cut the flux density in half (same power) we would have less losses in the core (more in the transistors!). So, both filament heater windings need to be insulated very well, both against each other and against other windings. The transistors do not switch exactly alternatively, but there is a gap in between of more than a microsecond. The diagram shows a 110 V version which can be easily modified into 230 volt model through simple alterations. The transistors have to be fast switching ones, high-frequency compliant or especially made for switch operation. The red curves are for a hot core and blue for a cold one, surprisingly the losses are less with 100C.
But the copper losses increase with rising temperature and especially the insulation material is stressed far more.
Mica is overdone, leave these for the millionaires ?? If you cannot get foil-C’s with over 400V rating, you may use double the capacity and connect two in series.

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Comments Uv-c lamp ballast 4cw4

  1. Bad_GIRL
    And UVC light leaks out in larger and.
  2. BlatnoY_VoR
    Protect them, they would grow a little glossy, shiny coating applied.
    Presentation, perfect-bound applications and single-sided business cards daylight illumination, or to provide special effects when lit with.
    Built in fan, so if you looking are a lamp nails.
  5. rovsan
    Polish brands will cure using LED welding powder you can.