Step 3: Box SidesNow glue together the 4 outer sides of the main box using the base as a guide (make sure you don't glue the base though). Step 4: Lid AssemblyGlue together the lid just as you did the main box but the lid can be assembled all in one go.
Step 5: Fit, Fill, Sand and DrillFit the lid, hinges, catches and glue the apron and support in place. Step 6: HolesDrill holes for the PSU connector, and for a cable to go from the box to the lid. Step 7: UV LED PanelsI've mounted everything except the LEDs on the copper side of the board to keep the LED side uncluttered. Step 9: Negative and Positive Rail LinksNext solder on the links putting some insulating tube between the solder joints. Step 10: Soldering the Resistors (surface mount style)Put dogleg bends in the resistors wires. Step 13: Solder 1st LegThen place a block of foam rubber (or something similar) on top and flip over.
Step 15: Finish the RowNow solder the other leg of each of the LEDs in this row and clip all the legs to length. Step 16: Solder LinksYou need to create a bridge at the end of each series of three LEDs to ground.
Step 17: Test that BlockAfter you've completed every 3rd row you can test that block by applying up to 12volts to the board.
Step 19: Make the Second PanelNow repeat the last 10 steps for the second panel, and fit standoffs to the six holes on each board.
Step 22: Glass and FoamCut some thick foam rubber (about 1 inch thick) to the same profile as the shelf. Step 23: Assembly and WiringFit the lid, its hinges, the toggle catches and the LED panels. Step 24: Final AssemblyFit the shelf, foam and glass assembly and the glass lid and its hinges and check that everything still opens and closes smoothly. Step 25: TestingYou may want to check everything is OK by hooking up a bench PSU and turning the voltage up slowly. How to build an Ultra Violet Exposure box using LED's.Your last Veroboard project!A UV exposure box is an extremely useful piece of kit.
I’m really interested in upgrading my two sided exposure box to this kind of solution, but i have a doubt. Has anyone figured out where the Electrolitic capacitor (2200uF and 30v recover) is fitted?
Looks like that is the working voltage of the capacitor, of course higher is fine (just not lower).
Making Printed Circuit Boards (PCB’s) is a fairly simple process if you have the correct tools, however by far the most expensive item that is required is the Ultra Violet (UV) exposure unit and even a small basic unit can very expensive to buy.

REMEMBER THAT FIGURE 3 IS AN X-RAY VIEW FROM THE TOPStop and check before you start cutting tracks !!! The initial prototype used 47Ω current limiting resistors and the entire board draws just under 900mA.
One simple solution to keeping the UV light out of eye sight is to place an upturned shoebox over the entire assembly.Improvements can certainly be made to this design.
These LEDs have narrow ray (+-10 degrees), it helps to get sharp shadow on photoresist even if photomask is not cling to the PCB very tight. That transparent box, although cool looking, makes me think you are asking for eye cataract. Normal glass usually absorbs too much of UV radiation, although I’m not sure if this is a problem around 400nm, or only for shorter wave lengths. Making your own unit is perfectly feasible and requires only basic components but usually does involve a considerable amount of care, as lethal mains voltages are present in the circuit, but there is an alternative.Pre-sensitized PCB laminate is available from most good electronics suppliers and consists of standard copper clad board with an additional spray coating of a UV sensitive photo resist layer.
Size depends on the size of your final UV exposure unit really but this design uses 64 holes x 41 tracks.99 x 5mm UV LEDs (400 to 405 nm, 2000 mcd)33 x 56 to 68 ohm resistors *see text1 x 12v DC 1A Power Supply UnitSome 22swg solid core tinned wire (or equiv. On top of that is a transparency containing the art work, and on top of that is a piece of plastic from a CD case to try and force the artwork flat against the board. Firstly the exposure area can be increased to an unlimited size if required but for Hobby Electronics use, the current exposure area should be sufficient.The one area that needs to be thought about carefully is holding the art work in place over the PCB laminate. It can also be used to make other things such as intricate photo etched parts (a subject for another instructable). Switch mode power supply's are far more energy efficient than most other types and are also very stable.All the other parts and materials are easy to find. After some tests, it worked awsome with Positiv20 as with pre-sensitized PCB boards that i had at home. Because the current on which these leds( uv ultrbright 7000mcd – 400nm) operate is 20mA at 12V. You should make sure that the LEDs are inserted correctly and that they are all set straight and at the same height; this will help produce a steady and evenly distributed light on the target. I would suggest using 68Ω resistors to cool things down a little bit but the resistor values will really depend on the specification of the LEDs you use. The negative rail runs along the top edge of the strip board in Figure 6.If you find any LEDs that are dimmer or brighter than the others they should really be replaced, as you want as even a light source as possible. The plastic wasn’t heavy enough so I had to balance my model knife and de-solder pump at either end of the plastic to give it additional weight. It’s imperative that the art work is forced down on the laminate and there are no gaps between the two. The trouble is they can be a little pricey for the hobby enthusiast especially if you want the double side type. LEDs mounted close to each other, so it provide well distributed light even with small deepness of box.

The packet of 100 x LEDs I purchased from EBay actually contained 102 LEDs and of the 99 installed, none needed to be replaced as they all worked perfectly and gave a good uniform brightness.Next, you need to install some supports to raise the board to a suitable height.
Under the UV light, the laminate actually looks black instead of the yellow copper look.The first exposure test was 5 minutes and the results were excellent. For my initial testing I used an old piece of plastic from a CD case but this isn’t heavy enough and I had to add some weight for my first tests (you can see the metal scalpal and my desolder pump resting across the plastic).
This instructable outlines the construction of a double sided UV exposure box using the recent generation of high brightness UV LEDs.Why use LEDs?LEDs are far more energy efficient than either incandescent or fluorescent lamps offering between 5-10 times more efficiency making them cheaper to run and kinder to the environment.
You can increase the size of the area by using a bigger piece of strip board and adding more UV LEDs. LEDs have a far greater life span than the other types of lamp measured in decades rather than months.
I've included all the CAD drawings and schematics as metafiles so they're easier to read when you print them out. The frequencies being emitted are also in a tighter band making UV LEDs safer than the traditional UV tubes. There's also just something cool about LEDs, I can't put my finger on it, but ever since I was a kid I've found them to be one of the more fascinating electronic components.Is there a disadvantage to using LEDs?Not really, however the UV exposure box I have detailed here is a little less powerful than the commercially available ones. This means that your exposure times will be around 2 ~ 3 minutes as opposed to 30 ~ 40 seconds, but come on, do you really need your PCB's to be produced that quickly? If you connect more voltage, they'll attempt to conduct infinite current, which results in the Magic Smoke(TM) leaving the LED (burning out). If one of the rows has a lower voltage drop than the others (and since they're inequal, there will always be a row with the lowest drop), the voltage across the whole circuit will be equal to the drop of that row. Then that row will conduct all the current that was meant for all the rows, because the others don't conduct anything at all. When you start soldering use your continuity meter for every solder joint to ensure there are no short circuits between adjoining rails. If necessary do a practice circuit of 2 vertical blocks (of 3 leds each) on scrap board to make sure you have continuity working between blocks.
Place temporary unsoldered leds in the 3 corners, ie., other than the corner where you are soldering the first led.
Then place the board on an even flat surface with the temporary leds facing down, whereupon they act as stabilizing legs.

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Comments Uv led exposure unit

  1. Doktor_Elcan
    Although the initial cost of some UV applications almost all of the ~ 25% opens doors for the few.
    Even at increased heart rates and blood take rubbing.
  3. Aglayan_Gozler
    Water tight, permanent fix on practically anything including wood polyvinyl acetate glue or household.