23.08.2016
Goodyear welted shoes are distinctive for their waterproof soles since the stitch that attaches the sole to the shoe runs along the outside edge instead of piercing through to the inside of the shoe.
As you may suspect, the name comes from Charles Goodyear who patented the machine capable of sewing around the perimeter, replacing the need for hand-sewn welts. These days, it is rare to see shoes with Goodyear welting because of the time and difficulty, and the fact that it requires skilled labor. Lyman Reed Blake invented the machine in 1856 to make this method possible and later sold it to Gordon McKay.
Advantages: Ease of construction, sole flexibility, and sleeker, more fashionable shoes (which the Italians are famous for).
Many shoes made with Blake construction are of lower quality BUT there are many good makers who utilize this technique and are worth considering. Blake construction is most popular among Italian shoemakers, who dominate the high-end leather shoe market. Blake-Rapid is a synthesis of Goodyear and Blake methods, where the stitching technique of Blake is combined with the extra midsole of the Goodyear.
The unique feature of the Norwegian method is the shoe upper is stitched to both the outer sole via the Goodyear method and by the insole. Beware of Blake constructed shoes that knock off the Norwegian method by applying stitching around the base of the upper that does not connect it to the insole.
The Bologna style is suitable for shoes with flexible soles such as slippers or moccasins because of their simple design.
The stitch is very similar-looking to Blake, except the stitching is closer to the edge on the inside of the shoe so you don’t feel it.


A love for the symbolism of quality motivates me to enjoy the excellence of these products. Goodyear is sewn to a canvas strip that is cemented to a relatively thin leather or fiberboard insole.
Ability Access exerce son activite dans la finition du papier et de fournitures pour la reliure et la finition de documents. ELECTRICAL STAPLER FOR SADDLE & PAD STITCHING UP TO 45 SHEETSThe Rapid 106 electrical stapler can staple both flat "table" jobs and saddle stapled booklets.
The Rapid 106 Stapler can stitch up to 50 flat sheets of 80gr paper and up to 22 sheets when saddle stitching. Up to 4 units can be mounted side-by-side and connected by an opto-cable for simultaneous actuation and complete 1-step booklet binding. The sole attaches to the welt (a strip of rubber, leather, or plastic) which then attaches to the upper.
Because stitching is done on the outside of the sole, Goodyear welted shoes tend to be bulkier and less sleek.
It is a simple process of joining the sole directly with the shoe’s upper with a large strong stitch.
Sometimes the thinner soles can be less comfortable on cheap shoes, and most seriously, the thin leather soles can wick water from the ground into the shoe (rubber soles negate this).


It was originally designed to make shoes more waterproof but has faded from common usage due to its difficulty. This effectively closes off the channel that water would otherwise use and makes the shoe quite waterproof compared to other methods. This method was officially banned by the United Nations in 1957 in the Resolution To End Crap Shoes (hehe). This makes the sole thinner than the goodyear welted shoes because they do not need an intermediate layer connecting the shoe sole to the shoe upper.
Blake-Rapid shoes tend to be bulkier because of the midsole introduction and thus is typically used on more rugged shoes. But welting that attached the upper, lining and insole together with thread had been around for centuries.
Because the stitch line runs around the outside of the shoe it is relatively easy for a shoe-maker to resole Goodyear welted shoes.



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