You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Replacing a broken window regulator can be a do-it-yourself project if you have a basic set of tools and the patience to mark fastener locations. Before you can replace a broken window regulator, you have to remove the door trim panel and the moisture barrier.
To test for power and ground, disconnect the electrical connector from the motor in question and reconnect the window switch assembly from the door trim panel to the window wiring connector. If the motor is getting power but not operating, you may be tempted to replace just the motor. The window glass is attached to the regulator with glued-on clips called sash guides, sash clips, or door glass attaching clips. The best way to remove the glass is to raise it to its uppermost position and hold it in place with shipping tape. TIP: Attach shipping tape to the outside of the glass and run the tape around the top of the door and attach to the inside of the glass to hold the window up while you work on the regulator.
TIP #2: If you have to remove the glass from the door to replace the sash clip, simply tilt the front edge (hinge side) of the glass down into the channel. You won’t be able to remove the cable tracks without first removing the arm rest strut on this 2002 Oldmobile Alero.

Mark each side of the broken clip with tape so you can position the new guide in the exact place.
If your vehicle has a scissor style, you must lock the spring in place before removing the regulator. You’ll find in-depth information, technical service bulletins, code definitions and step-by-step tests, and easy-to-understand wiring diagrams, along with descriptions of how the systems work.
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Next, you’ll need to test the system to confirm that the problem is in the regulator motor itself and not the master switch or the car’s wiring. To power the window down, the master switch provides 12 volts on one wire and ground on the other. Most often the motor fails due to excessive strain caused by broken or binding cables or friction in the window channels.
Once you understand how the system bolts together, it’s really a matter of unbolting and re-assembling in the same order. You can replace them with a nut and bolt on reassembly as long as you coat the threads with thread locker to prevent them from coming loose. Lubricated channels reduce the load on the cables and regulator motor and make all the components last longer.

Afterwards, they discover a problem elsewhere in the regulator and have to replace that as well.
Spread an old blanket on your workbench or the trunk of your car and lay out the window to work on it.
And you need access to the latest technical service bulletins so you don’t waste time and money replacing parts that may misbehave due to a manufacturer’s software glitch.
Note the position of the threaded portion of the old clip and install the new clip facing the same direction. Buy the proper epoxy adhesive (3M #08641) from an auto body supplier or the dealer, Squeeze out equal portions, mix, and apply to the inside of the sash clip. Install the clip onto the glass and wait the recommended time for it to cure before installing the glass in the door.

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