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Will usually ship within 1 business day of receiving cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. PLEASE NOTE: Refunds for orders processed with free shipping will be issued a refund excluding the shipping costs incurred for the original delivery. When choosing your aquarium lighting, there's MUCH MORE to consider than just "WATTS PER GALLON". In fact, the Watts Per Gallon is a VERY basic start, as this "rule" varies depending upon what is kept, what type of lighting, etc.
Even then with the many LEDs available, we need to look at input energy versus output energy since often the same input in watts (joules of energy) can have a different output in PAR due to wasted heat energy in drivers, controllers, fans, etc. Products described in this article are primarily used because I and other professionals I trust have many years of real world experience with them. No one should come away with a feeling of obligation to purchase these products, rather a greater understanding of aquarium lighting and their applications. For example: You cannot compare the output of a 150 watt Metal Halide to a 150 watt outdoor floodlight. We also had actinic blue lights become available, these mixed with other lights made it possible in the beginning to keep some photosynthetic reef life, although initially these did not thrive. It is important to note that Aquarium Lighting is a complex subject, and this article has both more in depth information as well as some basics. For cynical readers of this article who claim I have a bias; obviously I do, but then this is based on much research and use.
In fact many of the Lighting Products I recommend and admittedly sell were not even available in the earlier drafts of this article since it was first written in the 1990s and added to the Internet in 2005, It was my research, consulting, & experience that led me to the products I now recommend!!
Finally, it is still worth noting that even our best man made lighting is still far inferior to sunlight.
The true definition of Kelvin is that it is a unit of measure of temperature on the thermodynamic (absolute) temperature scale. Higher color temperature lamps above 5500 K are "cool" (green–blue) colors, and lower color temperature lamps below 3000 K are "warm" (yellow–red) colors. Kelvins, as applied to color temperature of lights, are derived from the actual temperature of a black body radiator. An incandescent filament is very dark, and approaches being a black body radiator, so the actual temperature of an incandescent filament is somewhat close to its color temperature in Kelvins. Incandescent lamps tend to have a color temperature around 3200 K, but this is true only if they are operating with full voltage. Another consideration of the color temperature as applied to lights; color temperature does not take into consideration the spectral distribution of a visible light source. Plant chlorophyll absorbs light at wavelengths of 300 to 700 nm Kelvin rating of about 6400 strikes a good balance here, which is why this is the best Kelvin temperature for freshwater plants (and symbiotic zooxanthellae in corals in shallow, perfect conditions).
Different nanometer wavelengths can be used to reach the same Kelvin Temperature; just as 4+5 & 1+8 both equal 9, so can different nanometer wavelengths be used for the same Kelvin Temperature. Here are some observations made by me and others in the professional aquarium maintenance community, some of these are simple observations, while others were based on more controlled tests. The 6500 Kevin lamps have produced the best terrestrial plant growth and generally the better freshwater plant growth (as this Kelvin lamp generally has more of the 'red' nm spikes needed by "higher" plants, but still has some of the 425-500 nm blue). More importantly if a natural tropical noon time sun 6500 light is utilized, you will get a better balance of all colors over a mixing of colored LED emitters so popular with planted aquarium keepers who like this red light over their red plants who also think this is better for the plants, which simply is not correct based on many years experience utilizing many different light sources. This Kelvin Lamp can also work with SPS, LPS placed high in the tank water column (nearest the lights) based on the symbiotic zooxanthellae needs found in these corals. The 9000-10,000 Kelvin lamps also achieve good growth rates, although slower than the 6500 K bulbs in shallow aquariums. This does not mean that a certain Kelvin bulb is necessarily "better" as factors such as "lumens per watt", watts of energy used, focused lumens, PAR, and especially PUR MUST be considered as well. This applies to aquariums when we consider the light spectrum and how it applies to our aquariums individual needs: Red light is the first to be filtered out and can only penetrate a short distance. Most higher plants need a balanced PAR light range which includes the blue and two red spikes required for photosynthesis (see section about PAR, PAS & PUR). The Nanometer scale and Kelvin temperatures come together when applied to aquarium lighting this way; Natural sunlight on a clear day registers at 5500- 6500 Kelvin degrees.
Most photosynthetic marine invertebrates should be kept with lamps of a daylight Kelvin temperature from 6400-14,000 K (higher Kelvin with deeper specimen placement, not necessarily tank depth).
Photosynthetic invertebrates (many corals, anemones, clams, nudibranch, etc.) also need more blue (400-490nm) than "higher" plants especially as tanks increase in depth, such as the 465-485 blue spectrum.
It is noteworthy that Fluorescent and even more so incandescent lights produce a lot of yellow and green nanometer light, which research indicates is mostly wasted energy in terms of the needs or freshwater plants and SPS Corals.

A measure of the intensity of light (referred to the photometry of light), one lux is equal to one lumen per square meter. While this measurement only includes light visible by humans, this can still be a useful tool for freshwater plants & most corals in marine reef aquariums. When the Lux is not enough, the zooxanthellae (inside of corals tissues) do not create plentiful oxygen. The minimum light intensity should be no less than 3,000-lux when it reaches the deepest part of the aquarium. PAR is an important and accepted starting point to estimate light energy, but should NOT totally override the also important related Useful Light Energy (PUR which literally stands for Photosynthetically Useful Radiation). UVA to 550 nm contains the absorption bandwidth of chlorophylls a, c?, and peridinin (the light-harvesting carotenoid, a pigment related to chlorophyll). Photons at shorter wavelengths (UVC) tend to be so energetic that they can be damaging to cells and tissues; fortunately they are mostly filtered out by the ozone layer in the stratosphere. This results in continued growth of a plant, algae, zooxanthellae and the ability to "feed" & propagate. Besides the obvious depth penetration, it is also noteworthy that most zooanthellic algae need more of the blue spike than "higher plants", hence the popularity of actinic lights for reef aquariums. Planted Freshwater Aquariums: It is also important to note that freshwater algae also prefer more of the "blue" light so the excessive use of actinic blue lighting should be avoided in planted freshwater aquariums, as well the use of more blue nanometer or higher Kelvin Daylight (14,000K or especially 20,000K) should also be avoided in all but the deepest tanks or in tanks with heavy amounts of C02. Currently accepted numbers measured as µMol•m?•sec (also referred to as micro mols or mmol) are 50 mmol for most plants or corals such as Nemezophyllia, while Acropora can require higher PAR outputs. HOWEVER, keep in mind that a PAR Meter is NOT accurate in important light energy spikes WITHIN the 400 to 700 nanometer range, so while one light might measure a higher PAR mmol reading, another light might be still superior due to the more important PUR & PAS output. Looked at another way, if you were to increase the number of emitters of the XT-E Fiji Blue to equal the XB-D 6500K (approximately 37%), would you now suddenly be able to say this light would work perfectly over one's high light planted aquarium? Some organisms, such as Cyanobacteria, purple bacteria and Heliobacteria, can make use of the unusable light discarded by the plant kingdom, in this case, light outside the PUR range required by plants, which is why Cyanobacteria thrive in lighting conditions that include more yellow light energy. PUR cannot be dismissed as some lighting experts have attempted to do based on their short time in the professional aquarium keeping industry, as we have already clearly established (as per the Overview section) that we found that once more precisely tuned spectrum fluorescent lights became available, we could grow aquarium plants more efficiently and with some advancements, this made the difference of not keeping photosynthetic marine organisms at all!!
While PUR also encompasses this too it also can simply refer to all light spectrums within PAR with emphasis on the more efficient spectrums rather than the less efficient spectrums such as yellow and green. What is noteworthy is how much radiation falls outside the PAR, in particular the longer frequency wave lengths going into radio waves. It is therefore reasonable to attempt to duplicate the sun's radiant energy that reaches the earth's surface which the Daylight (6500K) LED emitter is reasonably close when compared to the other light sources. There has been a lot of confusion about this subject, especially when considering LED lights, as many sellers and aquarium keeping personalities such as "Mr. Many people will think PUR is good in theory, but think it cannot be applied to every single species we are trying to grow under water. Another misapplication that is often applied in certain aquarium keeping cicles where they have apparently not done their research into the history of aquarium lighting as per PUR is to compare a high PUR light to a lower PUR light of much higher input wattage. As an example, I have seen the Ocean Revive LED of 120 watts that is a larger fixture with a larger footprint compared to an AquaRay NP 2000 Reef White that only has 30 watts, then state the AquaRay is under powered. A little history: since I have been in the industry on the research and aquarium system design side since 1978 (longer if you count my basic hobby years).
Even the best of fluorescent lights that are a Kelvin temperature of 6500K, use a percentage of their light energy in the yellow and green light spectrum which is mostly useless for aquarium plants or corals, although some green light can actually improve growth when less than 24% of overall light spectrum (Reference: Ref. This picture is taken with a camera that filters out certain wave lengths allowing for a better viewing of the difference, which is otherwise not easy to discern.
Otherwise the light output appears the same, although this is still important when you consider, this is achieved with only 12 watts of LED vs 30 watts of Compact Fluorescent lights. Think about how mixing all paint colors will produce black, while the mixing of all light energy produces white. I have noted, a dozen "hardware store" warm & cool white fluorescent lights can provide adequate lighting for a planted aquarium and even basic reefs. The implications for us as aquarium keepers is this process can often be the result of new light systems until our plants, photosynthetic corals, etc.
Some signs we may see is adapting, which will stall growth and for plants, leaves will die off and then replaced.
The international unit of luminous flux or quantity of light used as a measure of the total amount of visible light emitted. For example a T12 light that is rated at 20 watts with a total lumen output of 800 lumens has a lumen per watt output of 40. With this focused energy a "high end" LED often requires half the lumens (or often even less) to provide essential light energy to plants, corals, etc. This is why the old rule: "3-5 watts per gallon" can be deceiving, and this rule is only a starting point at best.
Keeping this in mind the average T12 has a lumens per watt rating of 40, which means you would need half as many watts of a bulb that produces 80 lumens per watt (assuming PUR & other aspects are equal).
The term "watts per gallon" is getting more archaic with the newer T-2, T-5, CFL, the SHO, and especially the new reef compatible LED lights. Interestingly (& sadly), many lower end aquarium LED lights are matching their lights to CRI ratings.
The picture below is a good example of marketing using CRI where by the picture on the right uses a halogen bulb source touted as having a "spectral match to daylight" and a CRI of 98. To be blunt, CRI is NOT a parameter that is important in determining the best aquarium light, but it is included here since many mistakenly tend to consider it an important parameter, in fact most lights sold with CRI ratings prominently displayed are intended for home or industrial use, NOT aquariums! Corsa B SMD LED Instrument cluster kit This DIY LED instrument cluster conversion kit uses high quality SMD LED's for unrivalled light spread.

Instrument clusterSupplied are 3 custom SMD LED's available in BLUE, RED, AMBER, GREEN, WHITE, PINK and UV PURPLE (specify in PayPal notes).
It also comes with a FULL PHOTO INSTRUCTION BOOKLET that you can take into your car to aid fitting. Please watch the video although I have to say it does look MUCH better in the flesh but it gives you the idea and it shows that I have not cheated results with trick photography!To the naked eye I would say that the first pic in the photo to the right is about bang on.This is the BEST kit currently available for the Corsa B. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount.
Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location.
Ita€™s smaller, brighter, more durable, and cheaper to operate than fluorescents, and it costs less than most other lights on the market.
This is an depth 'aquarium light info' article with basic & advanced applications that is regularly updated. Back in the days of buying your fluorescent cool white or warm white T12 or T8 lights (often even at hardware stores), this 'rule' was quite accurate and useful since we were more comparing "apples to apples". Higher frequency "red" light energy is quickly filtered out in water, and many light energy requiring plants, corals, etc.
Absolute zero is where all kinetic energy (motion) in the particles comprising matter ceases, and they are at complete rest. Which is the concept of color temperature based on the relationship between the temperature and radiation emitted by a theoretical standardized material and termed a "black body radiator". When a lamp is dimmed below its full potential, its filament is not as hot, and it produces less light. In cases where a light source, such as a fluorescent lamp, arc-discharge burner, laser, or gas lamp, do not have a spectral distribution similar to that of a black body radiator. However the many tests and observations show that when used alone, except in tanks over 24 inches, the growth rate of SPS corals can be slowed or even come to a standstill with 20,000 K lamps.
It is this wavelength difference that allows short-wave x-ray to pass through walls, while longer-wave visible light cannot pass though the same material; short-wave ultraviolet and x-ray can destroy DNA in living microorganisms and breakdown organic material while visible light will not. Kelvin temperatures less than 5500K become more red and yellow and the higher the Kelvin temperature the more blue the light is. I should point out that while the terms PAS & PUR have a lot in common, there is a difference in that PAS is most simply stated as the spectrum where "chlorophyll is much more efficient at using the red and blue spectrums of light to carry out photosynthesis. Or stated another way, the portion of PAR, which is more efficiently absorbed by plants & zooxanthellae photopigments thereby stimulating photosynthesis.
There is much that we also do not know, since photosynthetic plants, zooanthellic algae, etc. However if you match input wattage, you will in fact get much more raw light as well as useful light if four of the AquaRays were to be compared (which in reality, you would likely not need this many to do the job). We as humans may notice this to some degree, however we do not have the ability to pick out particular colors such as a honey bee can. The results is a brighter light that looks good to us, often brings out colors to our human eyes, but are actually much less efficient for plant and especially coral growth. Colors viewed under sources with line spectra such as mercury, GE Multi-Vapor® metal halide or Lucalox® high pressure sodium lamps, may actually look better than their CRI would indicate.
I have applied all the lesson learned during development of the Celica dash kit and have come up with an awesome kit for Corsa owners, You won't be dissapointed! If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable.
If you cana€™t see your line then you are missing many subtle strikes and potential catches. Use the navigation links at the top to learn more about the Nite III's LED Black Light, to find a retailer in your area, or to contact us with questions or comments. This is where the "classic" definition of Kelvin, and how it relates to light, come together.
You can figure lumens per watt by dividing the lumens your lamp lists by the wattage the fixture lists. If there is no change in appearance, the source in question is given a CRI of 100 by definition.
It is very weak in blue, as anyone who has tried to sort out navy blues, royal blues and black under low levels of incandescent lighting.
However, some exotic fluorescent lamp colors may have very high CRI's, while substantially distorting some particular object color. But the Nite IIIa€™s LED Black Light uses state-of-the-art technology to overcome the drawbacks of traditional night fishing lights. All this said, the only term I personally made up to best explain to my clients, which paid for my service was "useful light energy". Using powerful UV illumination, the Nite IIIa€™s (pronounced Nite-eyes) LED Black Light causes your fluorescent fishing line to glow like a neon rope, making the smallest line movement clearly visible. This explained it well, based on feedback from clients and others in the industry despite others attack upon this term.

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