One of the most common trends you will see with teak patio furniture is that it is created to let the natural wood shine through. Understanding the trends within this type of patio furniture makes it easy to select a design that is becoming of your outdoor space. Intro: Refinishing Old FurnitureThis example shows how to refinish a cedar chest, but the technique is the same for any wooden furniture.
Step 2: Sand the Curved Areas by HandThis is where you can employ your sanding-with the grain technique. Step 3: Finish Sanding with 150 grit, then Re-Sand with 220 gritOnce you've removed all the finish with 150 grit sandpaper, re-sand the whole thing with 220 grit.
Step 4: Fix any Broken SpotsIf your furniture has broken areas, now is the time to fix them. Step 5: Remove all Saw-Dust from the ChestIf you have a blower or vacuum, clean the sanded wood thoroughly. Step 7: Start Your First Coat on a Non-Descript AreaI decided to flip the chest upside down and apply finish to the bottom first.
Step 9: Sand the First Coat with 320 Grit SandpaperOnce the first coat has dried, sand it very lightly with 320 grit sandpaper. Step 10: Apply a Second CoatApply a second coat in exactly the same way as you applied the first. Step 12: Re-Assemble and AdmireSome people like to sand the final coat with 400 grit (or finer) sandpaper. While many AK owners sooner or later give in to their tactification urges, there is a lot to be said for the menacing beauty that a nicely finished wood furniture AK offers. While doing what is now known as "research" we came across a series of very detailed forum posts on this topic by AIMSMALL Arms Inc who generously gave us permission to rework his original material into this "how to" article on how to refinish the wood furniture on the AK-47". Oh yeah; as always, before doing anything first remove your magazine and check you chamber. Figure 13: Now use a thick, glossy business card to scrape off the strepper and varnish residue. After this 30-40 minute "soak period" AIMSMALL recommends scrubbing the entire surface with the toothbrush to loosen up and remove any remaining varnish that didn't come off the first time around.
Figure 25: Here it is after it has completely dried for 24 hours, it has not yet been sanded at this point. Sand the entire stock going with the grain with 100 or 120 grit being very careful not to remove much wood near any edges where metal buts up against the wood and also near the vents of the handguards.
Figure 28: Gently sand the entire stock with increasing grit (100-->220) following the grain of the wood. After sanding the entire stock with 100 to where the colors, grains and imperfections are how you want them switch to 220 grit and again sand the entire stock going with the grain as much as possible.
Next step is to pre treat the wood for staining, for this AIMSMALL used the Minwax wood conditioner. For the stain AIMSMALL used minwax Gunstock #231 but there are lots of different shades available. If you AK-47 furniture has matching serial numbers (never seen a WASR-10 with serialized woodwork) you'll want to preserve those and be very careful around them while sanding, or tape over them with painters tape. Figure 37: After each coat of clear is completely dry, sand entire stock with 0000 steel wool.
Figure 40: Your AK stock after sanding (as you can tell from the groove this is an AK-74 stock.
The thing I liked better about the process for the poly was that you just wipe it on and let it dry, no buffing off wet sticky oil. As mentioned above, all the material and photo's in this article were created by AIMSMALL, and originally posted as a "how to refinish the AK Stock" tutorial on the CalGuns forum. If so, consider using any of the Amazon ads on this site as the starting point of your next online shopping expedition.
While there may be seat cushions and such used in a set to provide a comfortable sitting area, the design allows the wood to be seen. You can download and receive the Refinishing Teak Patio Furniture images by click the download button below to get multiple high resolution versions. Check back over everything you've done to find and fix any possible drips, runs, puddles, or thin spots. We can restore your teak furniture to its original look and offer many levels of restoration. Unfortunately most AK's you buy in the local gun store can not be described as "nicely finished". AIMSMALL Arms Inc also made all (45!) photos that are used as illustrations in this article. Remember; every year there are more people getting shot accidentally by "unloaded" guns than there are people that get attacked by sharks.

Steaming is a simple process, you will need a bucket of water, a nice, clean, cotton rag (AIMSMALL used the ones from Costco), and an iron. If you aren't careful you could cause the wood to not line up nicely with the metal parts and it will be noticeable.
If you try to just sand problem areas with 100 and then the entire stock with 220 it will not look as good when your done. He used another strip of the t-shirt to apply a nice heavy coat of stain to the entire stock. It is ok to sand over them a little but just be very gentle and only use the finest sandpaper you intend to use on the rest of the wood. For the wipe on poly it went like this: Wipe the first coat on with a t-shirt strip wait at least 3 hours.
Next blow off with air and wipe down with clean t-shirt strip then apply another coat of wipe on poly. The process is a little more tedious then the "wipe on poly" in my opinion and I think I like the way the poly looks a little better too. The trade off is that you will need to buff the dry poly coats with steel wool before each additional coat can be applied, with the Tung oil you just add another coat. However, teak is used in shipbuilding and other industries and the wood has been proven to hold up against all of the outdoor elements.
I started with 150 grit on an orbital sander to remove the finish on the big, flat areas.(General Tips on Sanding, if you're not familiar with the basics) Sand paper grits tell you how rough the sandpaper is. Restoration includes cleaning and scrubbing your furniture to bring the teak back to its original color. For this reason we have been planning to do a tutorial on how to refinish original AK wood furniture for a while now. Just completely soak the rag in the water and then fold the rag in half so you have two layers and set it right over the dent, press the hot iron onto the rag and hold it there for 20 seconds or so. If you are going to refinish the metal parts you may want to put them back on for the sanding stages but beware, they will need to be refinished if you do this. Apply with a strip of an old t shirt and let soak for at least 15-20 minutes and then apply the first coat of stain within 2 hours (directions on the can).
For the Tung oil you do everything the same up until the staining is all done then you wipe it on and wait 5-15 minutes before buffing it off with a clean strip of an old t-shirt. The poly process seemed to be easier overall because I was able to work for a few minutes then walk away and come back to it whenever I wanted. It is used throughout areas where there is a water feature, either on the beach or on a lake. Should you wish to incorporate color within your furniture, you can do so with the cushions as well as any decor that you would add to the tables, such as candles, plates, or place mats.
You can gather Trends Within Teak Patio Furniture and see the Trends Within Teak Patio Furniture in here. I've also included a lot of information about other techniques, and their pros and cons, as well as some tips I've found for making the job easier. The AK in the article is not a WASR-10, but refinishing the a WASR works the same way of course.
I found that the tung oil would get very tacky after 6 or 7 minutes making it really hard to buff off so I immediately added a fresh coat of tung oil and then buffed it right away. With the Tung oil you have to commit to the time it takes to get through first coating the AK furniture, then waiting 5-15 minutes, then re-coat to break the stickiness, then buff. This makes it easier for everyone to stay comfortable while outdoors, because the breeze from the water can flow right through the seating.
Remember to keep the rag wet so it will steam every time and set the iron to the highest setting too. Countless surgeries and several years later, his back and leg still aren't up to the manual work of refinishing. But after a lot of searching, and some conversations with my grandpa, I think I have a decent handle on what's what. If you sand against the grain (not parallel to the lines in the wood), it'll look weird and scratched. For cedar, this looks pretty nice, because the wood has a lot of color of its own, and the clear finish really brings it out.
Clear finishes generally provide a protective coat on top of the wood.They might bring out the color of the wood (think increasing saturation, if you're a photographer), but they don't really change the color. I typically recommend a varnish for beginners due to their extended open times, which typically create a smoother finish for inexperienced applicators.
However, this process causes the coating to dry even quicker and they end up with terrible brush strokes. They are hard to apply with a paint brush, and less durable than some other types of finish.

It seems counter-intuitive, but these products are designed to (more of less) do the hard work for you. You mix two parts together, pour them onto a flat surface, spread with a disposable brush, and let set. You get an extremely durable, thick finish (I think this is what a lot of restaurant tables have), but the epoxy is more expensive and complicated to apply, especially to non-flat, non-horizontal surfaces. If you just plan to use a clear finish, go ahead and sand as fine as 220-320, but don't sand finer than 180 if you plan to stain the wood.
If you sand any finer (especially with any mechanical sander), you run the risk of closing the open grain of the wood and causing poor penetration of the stain. However, since they are so common, there are a lot of options out there that deserve some de-mystification. I used polyacrylic because the guy at the Woodcraft store handed me a can and said it was good.
The worldwide population of the shellac beetle is dwindling and creating a raw-material shortage. The obvious answer is that the matte is less shiny than the gloss, and the others are in between.
Shellac, however, is an incredible product and is still the preferred finish of many fine woodworkers. The door has been sanded as much as possible, but any recommendations on how to get the remaining pieces of stain?
Varnish is more of a top-coat, so as long as you get it all off, your wood should be pretty much fresh for using the oil. The only difficulty might be making sure you get all the varnish (if it's clear, it would be easy to miss a spot, which would prevent that spot from soaking up the oil and probably make a pretty obvious discoloration). I didn't notice this at all, but if you do, you can brush plain water on the wood and sand it while the grain is raised before you apply the finish). They bring it out, but they don't give it an amber tint (think no white-balance change, if you're a photographer). I have used it for years because I sell antiques and it was only sold in the Tulsa area until they got the website.
I'm refinishing the exterior of a chest that looks exactly like yours and have a situation I hope you can address. They're more like applying a color filter to a photo, or looking at the wood through tinted glasses.
If you put an oak-color finish on pine, for example, the combination of a very open grain (pine) and a dark oak color (when oak usually has very fine grain) will look pretty unnatural (see this toy sword I made, where I did exactly that). I'm very concerned about dust, hair, pollen or any fine particles sticking into the finish as it dries. Oils (like linseed oil, tung oil, teak oil, or butcher block oils), soak into the wood rather than coating it. They increase the wood's natural color (the same way a clear finish would) and often give it an amber hue (like an oil-based clear finish would).
Usually you have to keep reapplying them every couple years, but they're easy to apply (you just rub them in and then wipe off the excess). Collectors pay a lot for the patina of a gun stock that has been oiled for the last hundred years. I think that just making sure your workshop is clean and you haven't swept or done something else to stir up dust in the past couple hours should be good enough though. You can wax it to add some shine and protection, but it's not a tough protection, and it has to be reapplied periodically too. This is more of a purist approach, and some people like the look better, but it's also more work and less durable.
I've chosen to leave the exterior alone for antique value purposes, but I would like to improve the purpose of the cedar. Secondly, and more importantly, by sanding you remove all the patina that gives an antique agreat amount of its charm and value. I could strip a chest similar to the one in this project in under thirty minutes, using about a pint of each stripper.
I used 2 stippers available from a company in Chicago, where I have not lived for over 25 years. Sounds like it's a tradeoff between extra work (with sanding) and extra mess and expense (with stripping).

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