19.07.2014
Most new phone models now use optical adhesive to attach the LCDs, digitizers and glass lens, meaning when anyone breaks all three need to be replaced. Molybdenum String which can stand high temperatures without expanding and losing strength is used to safely carve away the adhesive between the glass and the digitizer without leaving any scratch marks. For best results, the newly assembled glass and assemblies must then be placed in an industrial autoclave to remove all left-over air pockets. From the above-mentioned tutorial, you can learn how to separate the glass from the digitizer and LCD for Samsung Galaxy S series, S2 models, S3 models, Galaxy S4, Note I and Note II models and other AMOLED screens, as well as some other phones using full glass adhesives. You do not need any of this equipment to repair your screen at home of your LCD and touch work ok. You will be able to do it without the fancy tools, and even if you end up with some dust and bubbles, you wont notice it when using the phone. What is the optimal air pressure (PSI) setting for the autoclave to properly remove air bubbles?
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Intro: Repairing Split WoodIn an otherwise attractive piece of wood, an unsightly split or crack can run deep like family turmoil. The amount of time it takes to heat will depend on your heater and the damage to your screen.
We recommend using some sort of electronic cleaning solution in order not to damage the electronic components. Wearing gloves as the assembly will be hot, wedge the string between the broken glass and digitizer while gently moving the assembly in a sawing motion.
Next, peel off the other side of the adhesive and carefully place the LCD centered on top, don’t place it upside-down!
If you don't have a hot plate, you might be able to use a hair dryer, but be very careful not to overheat the assembly and damage the LCD.
This process works well on cracked screens for the Samsung Galaxy series phones, such as the Galaxy SII, SIII, S4 as well as the Galaxy Note Series.
Be very careful replacing your glass screen, even with the most professional equipment you will only have a 70% success rate.


An autoclave is also used to ensure a perfect finish with no air left between the glass and digitizer. I am quite a perfectionist and have given myself ample time to educate before I attempt this.
The idea is to embrace and even feature the repair as a values part of the history or life story of the piece. Rather than using a penetrating stain why not try some kind of tinted lacquer that will put a coloured surface on the wood without actually changing the colour of the wood. Ive seen several tutorials on using tinted laquer, but at this point that is beyond my skill level and immediate resources.
You might try building a mold for the corner, then filling it with wood splints before you add the resin.



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