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The author got ahold of a pre-production Delta Unisaw to show off the different kinds of rabbet joints you can cut in the shop, and it performed extremely well. Whether you’re building boxes, drawers or casework, these four sturdy and self-aligning rabbet joints sure come in handy. Overlap rabbets are made from one large rabbets which is both simple to make and works well with many different types of projects.
Measure out the thickness of rabbet cuts using the thickness of the mating part, use that thickness to set the distance between the rip fence and the blade.
An overlap rabbet joint consists of one rabbet with a tongue that’s long enough to cover the thickness of the mating part.
Raise the table saw blade to make the shoulder cut in one pass, pushing it across the rip fence and miter gauge scrap fence. You can cut the rabbet in two passes with a standard blade, as shown here, or tackle it in a single swipe with a dado head.
Make your second cut to form the cheek and finish off the tongue, a shop made tenoning jig will make this cut easier and more stable. Double rabbets combine two overlapping rabbet joints for laying out and assembling furniture carcasses.
Double rabbet joints offer the same self-aligning benefits as overlap rabbets, only this time, both parts are rabbeted to fit together one over the other.
Make a few test cuts in scrap wood to test the dado blade to establish the proportions you want to cut your rabbet.


The stepped design of the joint will keep big panels from shifting out of whack once glue is applied and you’re installing the clamps.
Use a featherboard to keep the workpieces tight to the table while you're cutting the rabbets, supporting with a miter gauge if need be.
The most efficient way to cut double rabbets, especially on larger workpieces, is facedown on the saw table with a dado blade. Along with glue, reinforce your double-rabbet joints with pin nails or brads through the side of the joint that won't be visible in the finished project. Shelving rabbets are a simple rabbet and dado combination, perfect for making plywood shelving. You can make any size dado cuts you'd like for the shelving as long as the blade is narrower than the plywood, a crosscut sled will aid in making straight, even cuts. Use the same blades for cutting the dadoes, shape tongue and shoulder for the rabbet using a featherboard and sacrificial fence to set the projection and height. The shelving rabbets will fit together nicely and tight, as good as, if not better than, similar joints cut out by undersized router bits. These shelving rabbet and dadoes fit tightly enough to use naturally, but fastening them with nails or glue will lend extra strength to the joints. Blind cut rabbets are easy to cut in quick succession with a table saw, but they are also impressively strong. Set your dado blade to cut the blind rabbet exactly half the width of your stock and adjust the rip fence to be the same distance from the blade. Before committing to the blind rabbet cuts, test it out on scrap with the dado side against a rip fence, being supported by the miter gauge and scrap fence. Finish off the blind rabbet by using a simple T-jig along the top of the fence, without changing the blade or fence.
Customers who bought this product also commonly purchased the following combination of items. With the proper bit, a router can cut anything from a square groove to a complicated edge treatment in a single pass.
We have a large selection of industrial quality carbide tipped router bits available.Cut dadoes and grooves dimensioned perfectly for plywood, flakeboard and other sheet materials for which standard size bits are too large. Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount.
It’s a good choice for assembling drawers when economy is more important than brute strength or high style.


Be sure to reinforce this cross-grain glue joint with dowels or fasteners driven through the rabbet tongue. If you don’t own a biscuit joiner or a pocket-screw jig, here’s a good alternative for bringing those cabinet or box carcasses together with fewer headaches. Then, lock the parts with brads to strengthen the glue bond and form a mechanical connection. If you adjust the proportions of the rabbet carefully, so the tongue is exactly half the thickness of the workpiece, one setup takes care of both halves of the joint in short order. Instead, turn to this simple shallow-shouldered rabbet joint and make that funky plywood thickness conform to your will. Here, the rabbet’s tongue is cut to fit a dado on the mating part, so the pieces can lock together positively. Since the dado completely surrounds the rabbet, there’s ample surface area for glue, so no need to add extra fasteners for reinforcement. You can bang them out “production style” with a single dado-blade setup if the thicknesses of the parts match. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Overlap rabbets are the preferred way to conceal back panels in cabinetry, and they offer more surface area for glue than butt joints when building boxes or carcasses of all sorts.
Adjust the blade’s height and projection to cut the rabbet’s tongue so it matches the dado proportions. But be careful: your blade and fence settings must be spot on for these parts to slip together as they should. Fortunately, we've engineered these exclusive straight router bits to match the actual thickness of plywood. These downcut bits are made from a premium micro-grain carbide and provide the smoothest finish possible in plywood. Their downcut slicing action leaves a fray-free edge which is perfect for fine cabinet building or furniture making.



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