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Ecotensil ™, creators of ecotaster (tasting spoon) and, Ecotensil products are silky smooth and sturdy, like a paper soda cup. You’ll need about 80 to 120 frost free days when growing pumpkins to allow them to mature.
If you use floating row covers, you can transplant pumpkins to your garden a couple weeks before the last anticipated frost. If you live in warmer areas you can plant your pumpkin seeds directly after the danger of frost is past, typically around the end of March or mid-April.
Growing pumpkins requires garden soil that drains well, and has plenty of organic materials blended into it. As mentioned above, Pumpkins need generous amounts of soil nutrients, which can be supplied mainly with compost and composted-manure. The best way to apply your compost is to lay out where your hills will be, then mix several inches of compost into about a 2 foot diameter area – about a foot deep.
You can also mound the soil where your plants will be to aid in the mixing in of compost or other organic matter. If you have a small garden, be aware that pumpkin vines can occupy up to 100 square feet or more. Pumpkins, at least most varieties, are too heavy to trellis, but do grow well in larger garden areas.
Contact your county extension office to find out if there are common diseases in pumpkins in your area. Pumpkin seeds are usually still plantable 6 years after you’ve purchased them from a reputable seed supplier. Pumpkin seeds won’t germinate in soil temperatures lower than 60°F or higher than 105°F. The seedlings should emerge in about 5 days at the optimum temperature range, if they are in full sunlight or under grow lights (fluorescent lights are OK). If you’re seeding directly to your soil, you can use a black plastic mulch to heat up your soil. If you want to create your own potting soil mix, you can purchase mixing loam soil, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite at your local garden store. If you want to grow a pumpkin plant in a container, you’ll need at least a 10 gallon pot.
Mix 9 gallons of potting mix, a couple cups of alfalfa meal, half a cup of feathermeal, half a cup of powdered eggshells or oyster shells for calcium, half a cup of greensand for potassium, and a few tablespoons of kelp to cover your trace minerals. To harden off your pumpkin seedlings, move them outside during the daytime and cut back on watering. Your plants should have 2 or more true leaves at this stage – it will have been 3 to 4 weeks since you planted them. As pumpkins prefer warm temperatures, ideally the daytime temps should be about 75° to 85°F and 60° to 65°F at night. However, if you live as far North as we do, you may not hit those temperatures until 2-4 weeks after transplanting, so it might be advisable to use row covers and black plastic ground cover to help your pumpkins to get a good start.
You need a minimum soil temp of 60°F to plant your squash, so plant them in an area that gets lots of sun. If you’re planting in rows, space the rows 4 to 6 feet apart and the plants about 2 to 3 feet apart in the rows. When you plant your pumpkin seedlings, dig a hole large enough to place the peat pot, soil block, or soil mass into; then pack soil in around the plant. Once your soil temps have stabilized above 60°F, you can plant pumpkin seeds in your garden.
If you’re hilling your pumpkin area, make your mounds about 4 to 8 feet apart and plant 4 to 6 seeds about one inch deep and about 1 inch apart in a circle or square configuration. If you’re planting in rows, the rows should be 4 to 8 feet apart, and the seeds should be planted 6 to 12 inches apart.
Once the seeds have germinated, you can thin your plants to one every 18 to 36 inches, depending on whether they’re larger or smaller pumpkin varieties. Once your plants have at least 2 true leaves, thin them to 2 or 3 plants per hill, or 18 to 36 inches apart if they’re in rows. If you have plenty of pollinating insects such as bees, wasps, or hornets, pollination should be no problem. Hand pull any weeds within six inches of the pumpkin plants, then surface hoe the weeds that are further away; rototill weeds more than a foot away from your squash plants. Once the vines have covered the ground, you’ll not need to weed much in your pumpkin patch the rest of the season. It’s a good practice, about half-way through the season, to side dress your pumpkin plants (about 6 inches from the base of the plant) with compost, composted manure, or alfalfa meal. It’s also a good idea, if you have squash borers in your area, to mound dirt around the base of your plants to discourage them from laying eggs. Early in the season, black plastic may be your best mulching option as it warms the soil and suppresses weeds.
As things heat up, grass clippings or clean straw, spread around your pumpkin plants, both help to throttle pesky weeds and conserve soil moisture. You won’t want to apply these types of mulches until the soils reach about 75°F as mulch tends to keep your soil cooler.
One of the biggest assets of mulching is that because pumpkins have shallow roots systems, you won’t have to disturb them much by weeding.
When growing pumpkins, depending on your climate, they should be watered between 1 and 2 inches weekly.
If you mulch, you can use somewhat less water, but still check your soil’s moisture level frequently during hot, dry spells.

If your soil is sandy, use a smaller amount of water, but water a couple of times per week. If your pumpkins are trellised, you may need to water a bit more than if the plants are rambling across the ground. As with most vegetables, drip irrigation or soaker hoses are the preferred watering method. A good companion for growing pumpkins includes beans, which supplement your garden with nitrogen that it absorbs from the air. Radishes are reputed to protect your pumpkins from squash borers by attracting them away from your pumpkins to eat radish foliage which doesn’t hurt the radish but protects your pumpkins.
Onions ward off fruit tree borers, weevils, aphids, rust flies, moles, and some root nematodes.
Like most winter squash, pumpkins are ready to harvest when the skin is hard and you can’t puncture it with your fingernail. I always use a pruning shear to cut the pumpkin stem from the vine, leaving around 3 inches of stem. It’s a wise practice to wear some type of cloth or leather glove when handling pumpkins as the dried stems are abrasive.
A basement area, dark space in your garage, a crawl space under your home, or a root cellar are typically ideal locations for pumpkin storage. If a pumpkin has been bruised or cut during harvest or when moving into the storage area, use these first as they’ll rot more quickly. You can cut out the rot spots and bake, steam, or otherwise cook pumpkins with no negative effects to the flavor or nutrition of the remaining portions. You can steam and freeze pumpkin as well as canning pumpkin if you don’t have an appropriate storage location. Beware: it may be difficult to get the pumpkin hot enough to kill all the bacteria that is recommended if canning a puree, so it may be best to cube the squash and can it in a little sea salt and water.
We have experimented with pumpkins and kept them in warmer areas of our home at 65° to 70°F through the winter and still had plenty of pumpkin to eat all winter. Regardless of what these beetles look like, they’re pretty nasty pests that eat your plants and may spread bacterial or verticillium wilt to your plants.
To prevent these beetles from getting to your plants, you can use row covers before flowering to keep them away from your pumpkin plants.
If the problems get too serious, you can use organic pyrethrins or organic rotenone to deal with these critters. They are the larvae of a small moth with dark front wings and light rear wings and a red abdomen.
If your plants begin flowering during this time, you can hand pollinate your pumpkins if necessary.
If you discover the borer has created a hole before the plant wilts and dies, you can sometimes carefully cut a hole in the vine and remove the borer. Squash Bugs are probably the most prevalent pest but are somewhat easier to control than borers. Controlling squash bugs is easier if your soil has lots of nutrients and your plants are healthy.
Get rid of anything around your garden, such as old boards or anything they can hide under during the winter. It also helps to rototill or turn under your garden in the fall to eliminate places these bugs like to hide. To get rid of the bugs, hand-picking usually works in most gardens as they’re not so large as to take more than an hour or two per week for a few weeks in the summer. When you pick these bugs and nymphs, have a pail of soapy water to drop them into…the soap breaks the capillary action of water so the bugs immediately sink and drown in the water. Lay a board or two in your pumpkin patch overnight…the bugs will congregate under the boards at night. Organic compounds such as rotenone and pyrethrins are also effective if you have a heavy infestation of these varmints. This mildew usually isn’t a problem unless you have a cold spell in the 45° to 55°F range for a month or longer.
The mildew shows up initially as yellow patches on your squash plant’s leaves, then turns brown or tan with gray or white downy fuzz below it. Powdery mildew is another mildew that can affect your winter squash plants, but looks entirely different. It is also caused by wetness, but warmth and humidity cause it rather than cool weather and rain. If you keep insect pests under control and spray your vines and leaves with a compost tea solution or a baking soda solution, you most likely won’t have an issue with this disease. If you spot any of this mildew, destroy your vines at the end of the season and rotate your winter squash to a new area next gardening season.
You can also purchase seed varieties that are resistant to fungi such as downy and powdery mildews. To avoid black rot, irrigation should be managed to minimize free moisture on leaf surfaces, and a minimum two-year rotation cycle is a must. Again, overhead watering should be avoided, but if you have no choice, water early in the day. Crop rotation and planting resistant varieties are the best defense against fusarium fruit rot.
Straw mulch can help reduce fruit rot by preventing pumpkins from contacting the soil directly.
Angular leaf spot is a bacterial infections that creates spots that have a water-logged appearance and are guided by the leaf veins, giving them an angular appearance. Warm, wet weather is a promoter of this infection, and if things dry out, the holes created by this disease may be outgrown. You might think by this point we’d have nothing else, absolutely nothing else that could affect your pumpkin crop, but unfortunately we still need to mention bacterial wilt. Bacterial wilt causes the leaves to start to wilt into an umbrella-shaped appearance, then the whole plant collapses and dies.

As you might imagine, controlling the cucumber beetles will control bacterial wilt, so if you’re growing your pumpkins organically, row covers are the most effective prevention early in the season.
Most fungal infections can be controlled by planting resistant varieties, rotating your crops, and using the homemade spray mentioned earlier. Everything else can usually be handled by controlling the bugs with row covers, diatomaceous earth, and pyrethrins if it gets serious. If you are producing your own food, you know that quality and quantity are of equal importance!
Carnivores and certain omnivores such as lions, dogs, wolves, coyotes, and foxes in nature, after capturing their prey will first consume stomachs and intestines, which contain predigested vegetation.
Secure your plastic with soil (make sure all edges are covered with dirt), and cut holes for seeds. If you have a larger variety of pumpkin, you might want to plant them 3 to 4 feet apart in the rows. To avoid this, you can hand pollinate by using a cotton swab or a small brush to take pollen from the male flowers and dispense it to the female flowers. However, if you only have overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so as to reduce risk of fungi and mildews. Don’t use insecticides as they can also kill beneficial insects that pollinate your crops. Cover the vine and the hole with dirt; most of the time the vine will send roots into the soil from the cut area.
They feed on aphids and are very effective in ridding your plants of these little green, gray, or brown bugs.
They suck the sap from your pumpkin plant leaves, leaving them initially speckled; then the leaves wither and die. In the morning, lift the board and capture the bugs and drop them into the soapy water pail.
If you really want to know the name, let me know and I’ll copy and paste it in a reply. Then it progresses to black patches and the leaves and sometimes the plants shrivel up and die. In a gallon of water add a couple drops of organic olive oil, a couple drops of environmentally-friendly liquid soap, and 3 tablespoons of baking soda. Also, don’t crowd your plants as moisture creates the condition in which this disease thrives.
Your pumpkins leaves will develop irregularly, both in shape and size, and the fruit may have the same symptoms.
Diatomaceous Earth also works well, but only if it remains powdery (it doesn’t work if it gets wet). These predigested contents provide the meat eaters with much-needed nutrients such as complex amino acids, minerals, enzymes, and chlorophyll necessary for maintenance, health, and longevity. OGM™ naturally stimulates your garden plants to produce more plant sugar in the photosynthesis process. It can be prevented by making sure your plants have water and, if necessary, add lime to the soil before watering. These nutrients cannot be found in sufficient levels or in a readily digestible form in most all dry-foods. That in turn creates a more robust plant, more produce from your garden, and better and sweeter flavored squash.
In addition, many of these basic nutrients are cooked out of the dry-food during processing. Nevertheless, many veterinarians and dog food companies are teaching people to feed only dry-food (kibble). Wild dogs including wolves depend on fresh kills to provide them with these required nutrients.
Wild and feral dogs will capture small prey such as rabbits and squirrels to satisfy their need for these complex nutrients, which are not readily available in kibble. From this time, domesticated dogs have lived off the scraps provided by their human masters. Dogs have thrived by sharing food from our tables containing cooked vegetables milk products such as yogurt and cheeses, and raw and cooked meat scraps, and cooked vegetables. Until the last seventy years, kibble was not readily available or utilized in this country.
Consequently, dogs fed table scraps from their owner's tables had superior longevity and vigor compared to our modern day dogs that eat diets consisting mainly of dry-food as regularly recommended by veterinarians.
Too often dogs suffer from allergies, seizures, diverse health problems, etc., which possibly could be avoided by feeding a proper diet. The human digestive system is much more efficient than those of dogs, but intuitively we know that our health would suffer if we consumed a kibble only diet. Why then do we believe a kibble only diet is acceptable for our dogs' nutritional requirements? Once weaned puppies become lactose intolerant and can no longer digest milk products other than cottage cheese, certain cheeses, and yogurt. Puppies grow fast and require calcium and other minerals to grow correctly and avoid joint problems later in life. We meet these requirements by adding yogurt and our total vitamin supplement to their diet.
Our Pure Total Vitamin Supplement contains diatomaceous earth, brewers yeast, active yeast enzymes, vitamins b complexes, E, and C, kelp, flax seed meal, chicken liver powder, brewers yeast, selenimum, complex amino acids, Omega oils, and fishmeal.

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