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Author: admin, 12.06.2016. Category: Garden Soil

Lawns, paths and hedges are all a major part of the framework of a garden – they are the backdrop and the foil.
Areas for sitting or sunbathing could be hard surfaced or gravelled instead and surrounded or patch-planted with low-growing plants such as chamomile and thyme.
Grassed areas can be established in three ways: seeding, turfing and cutting the natural cover regularly. For most grassy areas, hard-wearing recreational rye grass mixtures are a better choice than the less competitive fine grasses intended for bowling greens. When sowing a lawn it is a good idea to include seeds of companions such as dowers, chamomile, creeping thyme, daisies, yarrow and other scented and pretty turf plants. Turfing is the most expensive way to get an area grassed, but is less work than seeding and gives more rapid results.
Cutting the natural groundcover regularly is the slowest method of getting a good sward, but produces the most ecologically balanced mixture of plants with the minimum work and expense.
Scarifying with a wire rake in the autumn or spring is hard work but benefits the sward if done once every few years.
The regular cutting of grass is best done with a rotary mower that can collect the clippings. Although the design and shape of lawns and grass paths must be aesthetic and practical, they also need to be kept neat. Using a nylon line trimmer first greatly increases neatness as it can be used not only to do the edges and to cut around trunks and bits the mower cannot reach, but also on the awkward and difficult spots, further simplifying the work for the mower. Because hedges need to grow densely, the ground must be well prepared and weeds controlled for the first two or three years until the hedge is well established. Young hedges benefit from a temporary screen to reduce wind damage, but do not make this too close or dark or it may kill the foliage. March sees the beginning of spring which, for the first time, will be marked by Garden Re-Leaf Day next Tuesday (13th).  Not only will the day herald the beginning of the gardening season, it will also offer an opportunity to raise funds for Greenfingers, the garden industry charity that creates gardens at children’s hospices around the UK.  Watch for a team of Grosvenor gardeners out and about in the community near you! As the gardening season begins, it is time to get out in the garden, enjoy the first blooms and plan for summer.
The forecast looks quite settled and mild for the rest of the month so you have plenty of time to get started. Bolster the health of your lawn with a spring feed and give it the best possible start to the growing season. If you are a novice gardener and want a quick fix but don’t know where to start, simply plant up pots of bulbs ready for flowering during the summer and choose from our large selection of seeds.  Sow them now – summer is not far away! All your plants will benefit from a good feed now to help strengthen their root system ready for the flowering and growing season - shrubs and trees will too.  A slow-release fertiliser will give good all-round results.
Existing clematis will enjoy a good pruning this month and take a look at your roses too and remove any damaged stems.
Looking for the Good Life in your garden?  Turn an unproductive area of lawn into a veritable feast on a plate by growing your own fruit and vegetables. Leave your early seed potatoes to stand in a cool, bright position and begin to sow crops outdoors including broad beans, lettuces, leeks, beetroot and radishes.  Please do feel free to ask us for more advice if you need it – we are here to help.
And don’t forget our Good Life Weekend later this month, which coincides with the clocks springing forward by one hour too so we can really make the most of our gardens even later into the evenings.
A D Landscapes Ltd use both Organic Peat Free Compost and Mushroom Compost to rotovate in to the soil prior to turfing, therefore giving the best opportunity for turf establishment.
The OregonianHave the best lawn on the block -- or maybe in the whole neighborhood -- and have it done in an environmentally friendly way. While you're waiting to see if you win, check out TruGreen's Fun By The Yard Web site for lots of tips and information. The day's important news, including local and national headlines, delivered every morning.


In very small gardens, give serious consideration to dispensing with grass altogether, saving the need to buy and store a grass cutter as well as liberating ground space. In the largest gardens grass is a sensible groundcover because it is relatively easy to keep neat and tidy, though can be time-consuming if poorly planned. Seeding gives you a choice of grasses and the option to include companion plants; it is not expensive but is quite hard work. The former prefer limy conditions and produce a tough sward productive of grass clippings and resisting weeds and disease.
Of course if you are a recidivist and desire pure grass, then you can choose this, but mixtures are more interesting and ecologically sounder as well as staying greener in droughts. The area still needs to be dug, enriched and levelled, but much less thoroughly, and weeds can often effectively be ignored — many will be killed by the disturbance, by burying and by the grass cutting that follows. The procedure is the same as that for regularly maintaining or improving an existing sward and basically consists of making the conditions most suitable for grasses and unsuitable for everything else. Acid-loving weeds can be discouraged and the tougher grasses aided by liming heavily twice a year with calcified seaweed or dolomitic lime. Cylinder mowers are not as good in damp conditions or with longer growths and mowers that do not gather the clippings build up too much thatch. With areas near the house the cutting needs to be weekly; further away and in orchards you can get away with fortnightly and in wild areas once or twice a year, but then these are no longer swards. A nylon line trimmer is also good for trimming grass to different heights depending on the situation. They are much more ecological than fences as explained earlier as they warm the garden and provide a nesting habitat as well as decoration. Cut back the sides and top hard each and every winter until the hedge is nearly at its required size, then cut back again in late spring and once more in late summer for the neatest effect.
Our popular Good Life Weekend returns on Saturday 24th and Sunday 25th March from 11am – 3pm so if you have any queries at all about creating an Edible Garden or improving your yields, simply call in and ask one of our experts.  You can even ask about raising chickens and see the mini travelling farm! True or False -- TruGreen recommends returning grass clippings to the yard for added nourishment. All rights reserved (About Us).The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Oregon Live LLC.
If they are in poor condition they draw attention to themselves instead of enhancing the rest of the garden. Grassed areas do compete with the plants in them, but grass clippings can be collected to use as a mulch (they are especially good for roses, shrubs and soft fruit) and to suppress grass around and underneath trees. The area needs to be dug, de-weeded, levelled and raked to a seedbed, removing all stones and rubbish. The fine grasses can make a showy sward but do not take hard wear and prefer acid conditions, which in turn favour mosses and turf weeds.
Concerned gardeners should be aware that much turf comes from unecological sources such as old meadow land, and that it is frequently pre-treated with inorganic fertilisers and herbicides. If the area is too rough for a mower or contains hidden junk, use a nylon line trimmer or brush cutter for the initial attacks. Patches of clover which stand out green in times of drought are blended in by sowing clover seed in the remaining areas, as clovers are of immense benefit to the lushness of sward.
This frequency of work means that a few minutes saved each time adds up to many hours in a year, so careful planning and possibly redesigning can be well worthwhile. It is really worthwhile reducing the amount of edging that needs clipping by amalgamating small beds and borders into bigger ones. For example, either side of a close mown path in a wild area or orchard the grass can be trimmed a foot or so high so that it does not fall over the path.
Most hedging plants are best spaced at about a foot to two foot apart — closer for small hedges and wider for tall ones.


TruGreen, a national lawn care company that focuses on green practices and products, is giving away a gift card worth $125 in lawn services to readers of my blog -- that means you. A common misconception is that the more product you apply, the quicker you will rid your yard of weeds.
Then ground rock dusts, ground seaweed and lime or calcified seaweed must be incorporated to enrich the soil. Oversow with tough grass seed and keep strimming till the growth becomes a rough sward, then mow once a week from early spring to late autumn, returning the clippings. This same feed can be used annually in spring, but I use diluted urine instead and sprinkle this on the turf during light rain.
With a nylon line trimmer the height of cut is so adjustable that chosen plants can be left standing alone after others around them have been cut hard back.
Informal hedges can have scented flowers, but clipping them into a formal hedge removes the flowering shoots and thus also any fruits.
Like everything in the garden hedges benefit from monthly sprayings with seaweed solution during the growing season. Cutting the grass too short, or "scalping" it, can put the lawn in shock and allow weeds and insects to take over. In fact, applying the wrong amount of fertilizer, herbicide or insecticide can cause damage to lawns. The first flush of weeds can be raked or flame-gunned, then the area sown in spring or autumn with grass seed. Give the young grass a cut and a roll when it is more than toe high; thereafter mow regularly and walk on it as little as possible for a whole growing season.
If you like you can reduce the height of the cut gradually, but I prefer to keep it set as high as possible.
It is absorbed rapidly and is converted by the sward into lush growth that can soon be removed as clippings for mulching elsewhere.
Do the same with odd little corners where you have to push the mower in and out several times. Cutting grass and weedy areas with a nylon line trimmer can thus encourage bulbs, primroses, cowslips and violets as the area can be kept neat without becoming overgrown and choking out these treasures. Informal mixed hedges are rarely pruned or cut once established; they are effectively just long, narrow shrub borders which take up a lot of space but produce a beautiful flowering screen. Sloping the plants over at a 45-degree angle gives a lower, thicker base and interweaving can increase this, giving a low, dense hedge from fewer plants. TruGreen recommends targeting weeds specifically -- no need to treat the whole lawn -- and following product directions carefully. Rosette weeds such as plantains and thistles may survive scarifying, cutting and soil improvement treatments, but they can be hand pulled with a sharp knife severing deep underneath at the same time – they rarely regrow.
Long paths should be made just to fit a given number of passes without leaving an odd strip which you have to go back over and finish up at the wrong end. In heavy shade where ivy often predominates as groundcover, weeds such as nettles growing up through it can be eradicated and returned as shreddings at the same time.
Arranging your plantings so that there is a shrub or fruit bush deserving a mulch near to hand each time the grass box gets full can halve your working time.
If you have to take the clippings far, a wheelbarrow will consolidate several loads in one trip.



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