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Author: admin, 15.11.2015. Category: Healthy Foods

Old cabinet doors with old texture were used and placed them next to our patio door, which had a thin drape to soften the incoming light.
The natural light came in from the right and we used inexpensive foam core boards (about $3) to bounce more light on the left side. We also re-positioned the set-up so that the main light could enter the shot from different directions. Connect with Us.Don’t miss out on our free recipe updates and food, travel, garden stories. This comment is like 5 years late but wanted to leave is nonetheless and thank you for an amazing tutorial.
Lovely and comical breakdown, I really love this idea of taking a step back to show the process because so much of the magic is there too! I work as a professional chef, and usually have little time to take pictures, so when I do it is usually only when the light comes through my kitchen.
I forsee antique dealers all across our land getting inundated with requests for doors now. I’ve been following your blog for some time now and always love that your approach is still simple for home food photography. This was really helpful for me to see – with no professional photography training or food styling training, trying to create quality food photos on my post has been a huge learning curve for me.
If you’ve tried all the aforementioned tips and are still feeling burned out, shoot something other than food. Like anything else you do, your Photography, all types, will only get better by constantly learning. On a final note I would also like to let you know that I will be taking the rest of the week off from blogging, and all other internet activities. I couldn’t agree with you more.Wish I had the patience to go through it the next day,too ! This is such a great post and I completely agree with your advice to walk away to gain fresh perspective, or shoot in a different room, etc.
Thanks for all of the information that you have provided in this post and I can’t wait for the ebook! If you feel the window light is too harsh, drape a white bed sheet over the window to mellow and diffuse the light. A bounce or reflector is just a piece of white material that is used to reflect light back on to the subject.
So to fend off two hungry dogs and to appease our growling stomachs, we took this shot really quick because sometimes we have the patience to spend too much time on a photo.
Unless the  photography is work for a client (which takes much more attention to time and detail), our food shots at home are fast and not always perfect. Lucky for an obsession for antique stores, we found a cool pair of old cabinet doors for only $15. We wanted something simple and green to balance the delicate green color of the edamame soybean soup.
Not only because you shared your set up which is quiet basic but also because its such a relief to know you get hungry and dont aways look for a perfect shot! I’ve always thought all these beautiful pictures were taken in this ethereal home with all perfectly bright (clean) cottage like furniture. Oh, and I love soybeans, I replace most bean recipes with them they are higher in protein and don’t cause the smae digestive upset ?? Can hardly wait to try this !
I know you guys spend so much time taking drool worthy photographs but getting to see the process and read about you thought process for the cabinet boards and creating the right style is so cool. Sometimes when the natural light is low or scarce, shooting on the floor allows more light to fall on the food. Fabulous shot guys, I adore seeing how you work, and love the antique doors you are using here – what a great idea. I always love your shots and it’s good to know that someone else has the dogs sniffing around trying to nick the props! Although I do have a space to put my set up on the floor, the light doesn’t really come in the kitchen. I select the shooting background and area, choose some props, prepare and style the food, then I grab my camera. As I mentioned in the previous section, moving to a new space will bring you new light to shoot in. Many of us get stuck in the same shooting angle, which is not only repetitive but also leads to burnout. Whether you shoot food as a hobby or professionally, taking a break from food can be refreshing.
Make time to learn what the functions and buttons on your camera not only stand for, but how they can be used to improve your photography.
I am nearing the eBook’s completion and I want to dedicate all my time and energy to the final sections of the project. There can never be enough resources on photography and having one specifically for food will be very useful.
Nor could I have predicted that less than 2 years later, I'd be getting such incredible support from my readers, and more recently, an increasing number of emails asking for photography advice. A bounce or reflector will fill any shadows and lighten dark areas on your shot. Use a piece of white foam core or white card board. Read your camera’s instruction book to learn how to use manual mode; its easier than you think!
As soon as I get an apartment with sunlight, I’m going to set up some nicer camera shots.
I am surely gonna take this as reference and try out I usually used to shoot photos using AV mode. I use cardboard too, but get a bluish tint, now I realise that I really need to fiddle with the camera settings more (I use a point and shoot though) and use a tripod! I have started to use the Manual Mode on my camera now (still learning and playing) and this post answers so mnay of my questions.
A lot of good photographers I knw aren’t even comfortable sharing their photography tips with others. I like that you showed a picture that included each of the instrumental pieces in your photos, and the difference in pictures simply from adjusting the shutter speed. I have been playing around with some different things, but I have not gotten the results I wanted. The bamboo leaves from the garden provided the perfect background height and texture to the photo! Or visit Matt Wright’s clear and thorough tutorial on shooting in natural light photography! I should set up a simple white box reflector for my food shots, but my family goes a little nuts when I take pictures of food anyways.
I can’t really eat food cold (as many ofcourse) and after a few shots I really cant take it any more.
The alternative is cooking everything in the morning — not practical or compatible with work!
The next day looking through the photos I realized they weren’t as bad as I initially thought. Simply go to the hardware store and look through the small pieces or scraps of wood you can purchase cheaply, or even get for free. But I’ve found that spending all my shooting time in that same area makes me stick with one, repetitive, way of shooting. Maybe the windows face a different direction, this can effect the overall look of your photos, which of course can be a great thing. Instead of only shooting straight on and from the same level, try shooting from a completely different angle.
Photography is hard work and as long as you keep trying and working at it, you will succeed. You will get a chance to ask me for help, critique, or further explanations on the subject at hand. I started one, and it’s super difficult blogging and working on the cookbook at the same time. I have no idea if this comes across online, but I'm actually quite a shy person in real life. I left the blinds closed, because the sun was very sharp, and I got plenty of light for this shot even with the blinds down. For a stronger bounce, you could also use a piece of card board that has been wrapped with aluminum foil.
Also int eh living and then to let more light in i pull the curtain to one side and sometimes i see the ppl passing peeing tp se ewhat i am doing. I also usually take my pics at night because that’s when there are no kids grabbing at the food! I’m slowly learning to follow simple set up and a trusted one, tht works most time, instead of trying to be a food stylist which i certainly am not! I know all cameras are different but I’m just learning and would like a starting point. I just wish we had a little more light spilling in through our doors and windows in Derbyshire (UK) in the winter.


It’s been taxing so I take pictures in my room by the window where there are bars that I could put some stuff.
Like anything else you do in your life, the more you do it the higher the risk of burning out.
Whenever you start getting that burnout feeling stop and see what in your photography has become repetitive. Perhaps the space will limit you or force you to set up differently and the therefore the light will hit the subject differently. There is so much knowledge and information on photography, read it, learn it, and then put it to use.
So to give you a bit more information, it will be an eBook written specifically for food bloggers.
He is leaving for a week to shoot landscape in Glacier and he wants to take the 100mm lens…ah no, you will leave that at home for me please. I did hang velum at the window, but I have so many challenges in the winter with out lack of sun. Right now, as winter is in full swing in New England, I struggle with the availability of natural daylight. I think most of us get in a nice comforting zone once we begin feeling satisfied with our work.
It can even become infuriating at times, specially when I’ve spent a good hour on all of this. Maybe it is extra fabric laying around your sewing area, or it can be a table you haven’t shot on before, even a wicker chair can make an interesting shooting surface or background.
It has loads of information, which will help improve your food photography, and explain what the buttons and functions on your camera do. So, your post was very meaningful to me – except walking away isn’t totally helping right now!!!
In the cloud of frustration I keep pushing and pushing myself, only to end up more frustrated. Maybe the walls are a different color in that new shooting space, maybe there is furniture you can use as a background.
I realize I know a lot, in my head, from classes with you, Matt, working with Kent, but when it’s in your hands? Yes, maybe the prop is beautiful, but if we use it all the time it will subconsciously become boring and certainly repetitive. Let's get started!Food Photography: At the StartAt this point you might be wondering why I chose to start a post about food photography with a collage of photos that are mediocre at best.
In fact the blurry shot of raspberry streusel bars at top left was the first food photo taken by yours truly to be posted here! The point of this collage is simply to emphasize that everyone starts photographing with no experience and little technical skill.
I've seen many bloggers complaining about how much they hate and hope to one day replace their early blog photos.
I totally understand how limiting this is in terms of time, but natural light simply breathes life into photos in a way that's hard for artificial lights to provide (though a pretty good counter-argument has been made before). When I first started blogging, I was working a very busy job, but was still able to photograph with natural sunlight in the morning or on weekends. This is a personal preference and priority, but most of the blogs and tutorials I enjoy and linked below also use natural light in their photos. And since it is what I have experience with, this post will only discuss natural light food photography.My window is fairly tall (almost 5 feet) and almost twice as wide. Since the window faces West, I find that my best hours for photography are between noon and 4:30 pm. My lighting setup usually involves styling my tabletop within 1-2 feet of the window (you can use any strong but diffused light source available to you). I usually prefer to soften the lighting to avoid harsh highlights or shadows, so I've taped large pieces of white parchment paper over my entire window to act as a diffuser. You can also use a sheer white curtain, bedsheet, or vellum paper.Black paper held to the left to subtract light for more dramatic moodI use white foam boards in a variety of sizes and a large round expandable reflector (see equipment list above) to bounce more light into areas of the photo where I want it (it's amazing how much of a difference these can make!). The expandable reflector has a silver side and a gold side to give a cooler or warmer tone to the resulting photo. To create a cheaper version of the silver reflector, you could simply wrap one side of a board in aluminum foil as a makeshift reflector. Likewise, I have black boards to subtract light and deepen shadows when that effect is desired (my friend Vera has a great post with photos on this technnique). Then, I may angle the reflector(s) down toward the food or up above the food and move the reflector(s) closer to the food or further away from it, taking photos of each and comparing results until I'm satisfied with the photo.BASIC EXPOSURE AND CAMERA SETTINGSTo reach your photography potential and get the most out of your dSLR camera, you will need a basic understanding of exposure. To keep this post from becoming a novel, this will be a very general overview with the emphasis being on the effects of each setting rather than the mechanics behind it (which I honestly don't completely understand anyway =p).Image from Robert D.
It is the setting determining how long the camera shutter remains open to let light in and is measured in fractions of a second.
A very small aperture will keep everything in the frame from near to far in focus (deep DoF).
But a large aperture opening (but smaller f-stop!) will keep a small section of the photo in focus (shallow DoF).
Thus, once you know how high your camera can go before the noise becomes visible, you should keep your ISO below that number (unless you are seeking the grainy look for artistic effect).If the technical terms are still confusing you, here is a metaphor that helped my friend understand exposure more easily.
Low ISO is like you are wearing sunglasses (your eyes are then less sensitive to the light) and high ISO is like your eyes are uncovered.So by adjusting the 3 settings above, you can get the amount of brightness you want in your photo. But as you might have realized, since all 3 factors contribute to the total exposure, there are multiple combinations of settings that give you the same desired amount of overall brightness. However, since a larger aperture lets more light into the camera, you'll need to increase the shutter speed or decrease the ISO to maintain a good exposure. But since this decreases the amount of time light has to enter the camera, you'll need to increase the ISO or aperture to increase the light let in and maintain a good exposure.Unless you want a purposefully grainy photo, ISO doesn't really offer creative options like shutter speed and aperture do. With the help of higher ISO (light sensitivity), slow shutter speed, and large aperture settings, I've been able to extend some food photography shoots to as late as 6:30 in the evening still only using natural light!
But to get clear images without blurring at low shutter speeds, a tripod is absolutely critical. That's why I'd recommend you start shooting in Aperture Priority mode if you're just starting out. With this setting, you simply increase the aperture (smaller f-stop number!) to have a small area in focus and the rest blurry.
The camera will adjust the shutter speed and ISO on it's own to what it calculates as "correct" exposure. If you want things a little brighter or darker than that, there's usually an "exposure compensation" button (circled in red below) to nudge the overall exposure up or down.Exposure Compensation Button (circled in red) and Exposure Compensation Setting Display (outlined in red rectangle) on a Canon dSLR Once you're comfortable shooting in Aperture Priority mode, I strongly encourage you to switch to manual mode.
It's really not very different, and you'll love having complete creative control so much that you'll wonder how you ever lived without it! Next choose an aperture setting depending on what depth-of-field you'd like your photo to have. Then look in the viewfinder and with the camera focused on your subject, push down partially on the capture button. This should cause the vertical bar of the viewfinder exposure meter (outlined in red below) to move left or right, indicating under or over-exposure.Exposure Meter in Camera's Viewfinder (outlined in red rectangle) via Digital Photography SchoolUsing the basic concepts of exposure I explained above, you should now be able to adjust the 3 settings until the exposure meter shows "correct" exposure (when the vertical bar is centered like in the photo above). For example, if the vertical bar is closer to the right at 1, the meter is indicating underexposure and you know that not enough light is entering the camera.
Once you have these basics down pat, you'll be able to play with the settings any way you want and be able to find your way to your desired exposure. As this process becomes second nature to you with practice, you'll notice you often don't agree with the camera's definition of a "correct" exposure. Once you know the rules, you can have a blast bending them =D.WHITE BALANCE AND RAW FILE FORMATWhen we look around us, whether it's in natural or artificial lighting, sunny or cloudy weather, colors remain fairly consistent because our brain adjusts so that we see them that way.
Cameras do not do this, so we as photographers need to take steps to make sure there are no weird color casts in our photos.
Most cameras have an automatic setting that will attempt to guess the correct colors, but I prefer not to take any chances. But in the case that there isn't, I like to take a photo of a piece of white paper in the same lighting and scene that my "real" food photos are taken in. Many image processing programs then let you set the correct white balance by clicking on a neutral part of your photo (such as the white paper).
It's an uncompressed format that's similar to a film negative in that it needs to be processed to be viewed normally. RAW files are larger than JPEG and require more storage space, but that is because they capture more data that allows for extensive correction of the exposure, contrast, color, and other aspects of photos in processing with minimal loss of image quality. This makes it especially ideal for photos taken in low or colorcast light settings that may need more post-processing. I usually tweak color balance, contrast, and brightness using the Canon RAW image editor that came with my camera. Then, I convert the RAW file to a large JPEG (2000 pixels wide) and further fine-tune the same settings as well as adjust others such as sharpness, saturation, levels, and curves in Adobe Photoshop.
There are many programs available for photo editing to suit a range of budgets and personal styles. Second is a simple technique I use to add depth and "pop" to my photos: (1) duplicate the original image in a new layer above it and rename the new layer to "Deepen", (2) change the "Deepen" layer's blending mode to "soft light" and the opacity to between 5 and 15%.


You can adjust this opacity based on your preference.Oh and one more thing: there ain't no shame in rockin' the stamper! It pleases me that prop (and food) stylists are finally starting to get the recognition they deserve. True, photography is at its essence about capturing and manipulating light, but it's nice when the light has lovely textures and objects to play with, too, no?
As professional food prop stylist Robin Zachary wrote in her recent guest post, "Keep [props] tasteful and simple.
If you're willing to make an investment, the more "organic" style of ceramics is beautiful albeit pricey. You rarely need a set of anything for food props, so feel free to pick up pretty, one-of-a-kind items for dirt cheap at these places. You'll never know when that item may add just the right touch of "special" to a photo.Vintage Silver from EtsySilverware is, like all props, a matter of personal taste.
Modern pieces that are tasteful can certainly work well in food shots, but I prefer the duller surface and patina of vintage silverware.
Their advantage is two-fold because they (1) add a sense of history and continuity to the scene (as if someone has used the spoon or fork for many years and will continue to do so) and (2) have worn surfaces that won't reveal your tripod, reflector, or even your face in their reflective surfaces! Don't be afraid to ask the sellers, especially on Etsy, to lower shipping costs or even the sale price by a few dollars. Sometimes they'll agree just to clear out old inventory.Hem-stitched Napkins from Pottery BarnLike utensils, napkins and kitchen towels are important to add a touch of realism to food photos, as if someone is about to dig right in. I've had difficulty finding good napkins locally, but Amazon and other online retailers provide some options. It also seems to be common practice to use napkin-sized fabric pieces to achieve a similar effect. It's not easy to find kitchen towels without patterns or logos these days, but Ikea and Etsy and good places to look. Pottery Barn sells linens with beautiful hemstitching but at a higher cost.Butter Paneer Curry Pizza on Vintage ChairLast but definitely not least, are background surfaces. Although they may not be the hero, you'd be surprised at how much a beautifully textured background can set a food photo apart. These surfaces run the gamut from table linens to vintage wood, zinc sheeting to weathered fencing, and from denim fabric to slate slabs. I also read of a stylist who picked up a broken table from the street, sawed its legs off, and got a gorgeous wood backdrop for free.
Two examples of my own use of unconventional backgrounds are shown in photos above and below.
One was a vintage wood chair and the other was the back of a small, dingy roasting pan.For more information about the basics of food prop styling, please refer to the recent guest post by on this blog by professional prop stylist and art director, Robin Zarchary of Prop Closet.
Another great resource is this guest post by professional food prop stylist Paula Walters on Gourmande in the Kitchen.Browned Butter Pizzookies on Back of Old Roasting PanPRE-SHOOT PLANNINGYes, I plan ahead for my food shoots (when I can make the time). This may sound excessive to some, but it's incredibly helpful to making the food preparation, styling, and photography process flow together smoothly.
Which is why I find it very useful to sketch out my styling ideas ahead of time (see example below).
Sometimes the idea for a set-up just grabs me right away, but more often I like to think about the food I'll be making. And that's just a sampling of the questions you could consider.Sketches for Pomegranate Almond Cream Cheese DanishAs I said earlier, the most powerful photos to my mind have a story. I mean this in a way that is not so much about a plot as it is about evoking a time, place, or even just a feeling. I prefer to decide on the message I'm trying to convey earlier in the preparation process rather than later. Once that's known, it can become the common string that ties everything else together, from the color scheme to the lighting or props. Experimentation is the fuel to my passion for photography and one of my favorite exercises is to shine a different light on a familiar food.In addition to furthering the creative process, I find that sketching for a shoot is a great way to get materials organized so that I'm not still digging for a napkin or that perfect spoon when the food is ready to go. Once I'm happy with my styling, I make a list of all the props as well as ingredients I'll need on hand for that dish. Part A: set up the props and adjust camera settings beforehand so you are ready to shoot when the food is done.
For instance, if you didn't get the hang of piping frosting on cupcakes until the last 3 of the dozen, don't be afraid to photograph only the pretty ones. Or place them in the forefront and use shallow depth-of-field to do a Monet on their plainer sisters.
Lower the pasta until only the tip is touching the plate, then continue lowering the pasta slowly as you rotate the plate with your other hand. If this bugs you, you can use heavy cream (which is whiter) instead for pictures or use a layer mask to adjust the color in post-processingFlat foods like waffles can tend to look, well, flat in photos. At the same time, I'm quite convinced that the best thing to ever happen to my photography was the 3-4 months when I was so busy working that I couldn't photograph (or do much of anything else either, for that matter). During those months I'd often browse food blogs during my breaks at the office and started seriously analyzing the photos that drew me in the most.
It was only then that I became present to the power of styling and composition in food photography and began to apply it to my own work.My talented friend, Sylvie, of Gourmande in the Kitchen has actually just published a wonderful post summarizing the principles used to organize the visual elements of lines, shapes, colors, and textures in a photograph that tend to result in a successful composition.
The principles discussed are balance, movement, pattern, and proportion; and it's really a must-read for any budding food photographer.
The formal terms are new to be, but reading this article was like having the very patterns I'd observed privately put to paper. Though I lack formal training in these principles, I will briefly discuss my personal understanding of and experience with them below.Sliced Orange and Blanched and Peeled PeachesBalanceThis is one of the most important principles, in my opinion, and strongly affects how we respond to viewing an image.
I am not a fan of tilted food shots and I think it is precisely because any chance of balance is thrown out the window.
Tilting some elements (such as cutting boards or cutlery) can be a great way to add tension, movement, and interest to your composition as long as they are well-distributed.
For example, in my photo of waffles below, the waffles and blueberries on the left are balanced by the silverware and beaker on the right despite their asymmetrical placement.
In the photo of strawberry cupcakes below, the greens and yellows of the trees outside help to balance the red of the strawberries.
In the shot of lemon polenta cranberry cookies (also below), the dark shadows from the wood board complement to the bright highlights on the cookies above it.Strawberry N' Cream Cupcakes and Chocolate Nutella AlfajoresMovementMovement can be quite literal, such as the slicing of an onion or pouring of syrup, or it may refer to the placement of focal points within the image. The second is probably my favorite out of these principles because it was the personal revelation that changed my entire outlook on food photography.
One day while perusing a food magazine, I suddenly realized that my eyes were moving between interesting parts of the photograph in a zigzag pattern down the page! This is the explanation you've probably been waiting for as to why some of these photos have odd lines going across them -- I simply highlighted some potential paths your eyes might take as they move across my photos. Of course each person will view the photos slightly differently due to individual preferences, but positioning interesting elements in a way that guides the viewer's eyes through your photo will make anyone's experience more enjoyable and exciting.
Cinnamon Teff Waffles with Blueberry Compote and Lemon Polenta Cranberry CookiesPatternAdding repetition of shapes, colors, etc. I think that's probably why so many food photos feature multiples of foods rather than one alone. The photos of cookies and waffles (above) and macarons (below) are obvious examples of this. More subtle uses of pattern, which were more intuitive than intentional on my part, can be found in the strawberry and s'mores cupcake photos.
In the first photo (above), you may notice that the shape of the bowl with whipped cream somewhat resembles that of the cupcake. In the second photo (below), a stripe-like pattern can be found in the toasted frosting, ridges of the cupcake liner, veins of the leaves, and placement of the branches.S'mores Cupcakes and Snickers MacaronsScale and ProportionScale refers to the size of objects within the whole photo, while proportion refers to the size of objects in the photo compared to each other.
A common mistake of scale is to take a very close-up image of the food in which the food alone takes up most or all of the frame.
This is not a view of food that appears natural to our eyes and can sometimes cause the food to become so distorted that it's hard to identify.
The relative size of objects in your photo to each other is also important to a successful composition.
For example, I specifically chose my smallest wood board for the photo of lemon polenta cranberry cookies (above) so that the cookies wouldn't look tiny compared to the board. Similarly I used a 5-inch candle stand to hold the Snickers macarons (above) since they would have looked quite ridiculous on my 12-inch cake stand.
I was also careful to set the milk bottles and bowl in that photo far in the background so they wouldn't overwhelm the macarons with their size.RECOMMENDED READINGI know this was a bear of a post, so if you've made it here to the end, I thank and salute you! The purpose of this is to share my experience with anyone who might use it to nourish their own passion for food photography or styling. But since I have so much left to learn myself, I happily point you toward some great sources of tutorials, tips, and inspiring photography.



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