Best vegetable garden design software,foods to lower cholesterol and glucose,food battle the game trucos - Downloads 2016

Author: admin, 04.05.2016. Category: Garden Soil

The flavour of food straight from a garden grown in healthy balanced living soil is wonderful!
There are many authors with books and websites on growing vegetables, fruit and herbs so I wona€™t go into that here. As with just about everything in life, as Jan Smuts observed, there are broad patterns that can be useful in planning a successful food garden, but every individual situation is truly unique in its details at least, and these are just as important as the broader patterns if you are to have a successful food garden. Finally, before we launch into specifics, there are many theories as to how best to lay out the garden and assemble plantings within. So, please read the following with your specific site and the way you want to live with your garden in mind. Wherever your garden, give lots of thought to the location of your vegetable and fruit gardens.
If you are new to growing vegetables, it is sense to start small and with easy crops to get experience, but in your planning leave adequate room for eventual expansion.
If at all possible, get an absolute minimum of 6 hours direct unbroken sunlight per day onto all of your vegetable beds all of the year. What other relationships may you want to create at some point in the future a€“ perhaps with chooks, or ducks? Where is your kitchen and where will you do the intermediate cleaning off of soil and inedible parts, before the harvest goes to the kitchen?
Keep in mind that the roots of many trees are a dammed nuisance in a vegetable garden sucking moisture and nutrient from your crops, so your vegetable garden needs to be far enough away from these or you will need to create effective permanent barriers or be prepared for lots of extra work. The following tips should be read in addition to such other references as Permaculture design books, organic gardening books etc. If you have the chance, experiment with temporary layouts before you commit yourself to solid and expensive (either in effort or cost) permanent infrastructure. Design for the easiest access you can, both to and within the garden, but keep it in balance with space available for growing the crops! Think about how you are going to do the various tasks in your vegetable garden and design for making every job as easy as possible. Think about how you might incorporate useful companion plants around or through the garden. I hesitate to include this for fear that it may be interpreted as a€?the ideal which must be aspired toa€?. If on flat ground, the beds are raised about 200 to 300mm above the surrounding paths with solidly built walls of only 100mm width. If possible have no a€?dead-endsa€? which make backing out the wheelbarrow or vehicle more difficult a€“ remember wea€™re trying to make all your tasks as easy and pleasurable as possible.
Finally, in most but not all circumstances, I have a narrow strip of no more than 100mm at the outside foot of these walls in which to grow habitat for beneficial insects. As with the pointers above, the following are my suggested minimum requirements for maximum pleasurable ease of operation. Always keep in mind the principle a€“ design things so that the easiest thing to do is the right thing to do.
Have clean-up facilities on the way from the garden to the kitchen where soil can be washed off, the unused parts of the plant can be removed for composting, and you can wash your hands. Space to stack and store the movable weather-proof infrastructure such as stakes, trellising, frames for poly-tunnels, perhaps irrigation depending on how you arrange this. Out-of-the-weather-and-sun space to store folded fabrics like pest-exclusion nets, shade clothe, or a€?polyethylenea€? (to use as movable cloches aka mini green-house). Garden office - Most people dona€™t, but I am convinced that a dedicated space for a small a€?kitchen garden officea€? is a huge help. A dedicated Kitchen Garden Shed is often, but not always, the best way of housing many of the elements above in on and around it right on the edge of the vegetable garden to make all your tasks easier.
Animal exclosure a€“ if there is even a remote possibility that animals such as rabbits, hares, destructive pets (not only yours) or free-ranging chooks might become a problem, ita€™s often easier and more economical to set things up to keep them out as part of the initial design and set-up. Appropriate size and conditions of storage space for the produce which is not all consumed immediately ita€™s harvested. That is, at what stage of your propertya€™s development and your life should you start your vegetable garden?
I can tell you our vegetable garden at Niwajiri takes about 8 to 10 hours per week (albeit at a comfortable pace, and spread over the whole week) from September until end of February, reducing to 6 or 7 hours March and April, and only 4 or 5 from May to August. I strongly advocate that you PLAN where your vegetables and other food growing will be very early in your gardens development and if you have the time by all means get some easy crops going, or even set out the beds (they can be planted to grass or other easy crops) but dona€™t launch into full-scale self-reliance until you have time.
Raised bed vegetable gardening is a very great way of gardening since it has a lot of advantages over the normal and traditional way of vegetable gardening. There are plenty of advantages of raised bed vegetable gardening that people doesn’t get from the normal vegetable gardening.
Other advantages that raised bed vegetable gardening has over the normal vegetable gardening are that the raised bed could make the gardening easier. Building a raised bed vegetable gardening ideas is also a great and creative way to make a raised bed looks more unique and interesting. Planting your own garden does not have to be hard.  By following the advice given below, you can have a vegetable garden in practically no time. Many people choose to place a small fence around their garden to prevent pests, however this is optional.  It is important to water all of the vegetables on a regular basis and to pick them as soon as they are ripe. It is streets ahead for nutritional value, indeed thata€™s probably why it tastes so much better a€“ your taste buds can sense the higher levels of minerals, vitamins and so on.
They range at one extreme from a jumbled wild perhaps romantic paradise, all self-sowing utopia where weeds are loved as much as harvestable crops, through organic shapes with key-hole beds for good a€?energya€?, to anally-retentive elaborate versions of formal French potagers at the other.

An apparently small adjustment can make a world of difference to your ease of success, so take the time to observe your site in detail, and over at least a full year before you commit to anything which cana€™t be easily changed.
At Niwajiri, wea€™ve found that a total of around 50sq mts of planting space per person to be fed (ie not including any paths, retaining walls or other infrastructure) enables us to grow about 90 to 95% of our vegetables, and I believe we can get close 100% with some refinements to the annual crop planning.
We didna€™t, and now we have one of our 4 beds in a much less than ideal location, but we cana€™t bring ourselves to take out the other garden that is in that ideal location. Mid-winter frosts actually improve the flavour of some cold-adapted vegetables (parsnips, cabbage and Brussels Sprout to name a few), but are a real threat to most especially in spring and summer, so plan accordingly.
Most vegetables want as much sun as they can get especially in mild, cool and cold weather. Circumstances change over time, so keep an open mind to possibilities and how that may impact your location and internal layout over long and short term.
They must be easy to use or you wona€™t; but they usually dona€™t rate high in the aesthetic appeal stakes, so away from other living space is wise.
Test for poisonous residues if there is any chance there is industrial, agricultural or domestic waste or residual chemicals lurking in your soil. Do so even if it may be some time off or you are not enthusiastic at the moment a€“ they are such a boon it’d be a pity to lock yourself out of the possibility later.
Here at Niwajiri our main reason for them is because there is so much rain in winter it creates a number of problems, which raised beds solve. Raising the beds enabled us to install a permanent root barrier on top of natural ground, install drainage on top of that and fill the beds with a much more productive soil mix. This enables infrastructure such as trellising, netting, chook-tractor etc to be used easily in each.
Tasks such as digging, temporary trellising, bringing in mulch, keeping out snails slugs etc, keeping birds off if necessary, irrigating as appropriate to each crop, harvesting the crop.A  Beds and layouts of the right size, shape, height etc. Our experience is that some of these are best not in the beds themselves, but very helpful nearby. As repeatedly stated, every situation is unique at least in its details and these details are just as important as the broad patterns.
If you want to get really complex with your rotation planning, by all means add more theoretical beds to your rotation, but do keep them all consistent.
This makes a number of tasks easier, and the walls can serve to hold access planks across the bed so that you dona€™t tread on and thereby compact the soil. Slopes are OK for vegetables to grow on, but they make your work much harder and the steeper the slope the more erosion and difficulty for irrigation. At Niwajiri this is not a neat straight strip, but rather the left-over space from the large stepping stones that are the thoroughfares.
How they are assembled and whether in fact all in one place or in several is very site and people specific. This is much easier outside than in a normal domestic kitchen and best if under cover so as not too scorching hot or wet. Some are best on narrow shelves at a convenient range of heights (deep ones tend to gather containers of stuff that get lost and never used). This can be extended to drying other crops for storage, like tomatoes, grapes and other fruit if you really getting into it, but this is not a critical thing. Having wasted lots of frustrating time running back and forth from the veg garden to the dining table to check or update my plans and records, because having them outside they get dirty or wet or blow away, I build this in to my a€?minimum size garden shed plansa€?. Depending on the circumstances, it may serve other functions too, and be somewhat larger than the minimum I suggest.
This includes all planning planting, compost, irrigation, setting up each seasons trellising nets and cloches, harvest and processing, but not time experimenting or building new infrastructure.
People tend to have laziness for growing vegetables in their yard since they have a lot of things to do like they have to cut the wild grass and plants around the garden routinely to make sure that they grow good harvests of vegetables. One of the best advantages is that in growing vegetables with raised bed is that the soil that used in raised beds could use compacted soil.
The higher beds make the treatment of the vegetable garden easier since it has a higher position than the bottom of the earth surface gardening. The plants and vegetables that could be used in the raised bed gardening is the same with the normal gardening with the exception of some plants. After choosing the vegetables, it is always a smart idea to invest in some type of devise to keep the bugs and animals away.
If you choose to buy the chemical to prevent animals for entering your garden, spread it around the outside edges of the garden.
They should also be read and considered a€?as a wholea€?, that is, everything should be considered in your particular situation.
From my own experience, observations of elsewhere, reading, analysing and trialling, I suspect many of these theories are driven more by the particular personalities and paradigms of the author, rather than thorough research and trialling where the primary objective is harvesting the maximum amount of usable produce while minimizing the amount of effort resource and inputs needed to grow it, and enhancing rather than degrading the ecosystem in the process. The following is just the summary of my learning to date of the likely easiest a€?minimum set-upa€?.
At the risk of repetition; the primary aim of the tips here is on-going, long term, easy and successful harvest of most of your food, while enhancing the ecosystem rather than degrading it. It is entirely possible to grow some of your food in far more cramped conditions for a year or so, but remember we are aiming at EASE of ON-GOING long term success, not a quick a€?one-hit show-off wondera€?.
Keep in mind that depending on your latitude, the winter sun is much lower in the sky and so shade from trees and buildings to the a€?equator side (north in Australia) can cast a very long shadow.
A complete soil test from somewhere like Australian Peri-Agricultural Laboratories will give you nutrient amendments to make to your soil which may dramatically increase your success rate by increasing plant health and thereby disease resistance. You will quite possibly change the mix of crops you wish to grow, and your available time may change.

A Keep in mind though that free-ranging chooks with permanent access to your orchard or vegetables can create a lot of grief turning favourite areas into moonscapes. I find that having the habitat plants in the bed is a nuisance and often competition for water and nutrients, but at the outside edge surrounding each bed is still close enough for the insects to do their work. Ia€™ve found hanging most of them on the outside of the garden shed but sheltered from rain and direct sun (which degrades timber handles and rusts steel) is a better solution than inside the shed, because you can easily pop each tool back in its place between tasks. Arrange it so you can capture that washed top soil (it is the very basis of your nutrition and you dona€™t want to waste it) and easily get the discarded plant matter to the compost.
The space needs to be easily kept clean so that your pens and pencils will still write on the paper!; light but out of direct glaring sun, dry, cool in summer and not too cold in winter. I have also designed several a€?out-door cupboardsa€? as a better alternative for the particular circumstances, usually where space is limited. Growing a few easy crops like herbs, lettuce, carrots, beetroot etc requires much less commitment, and is definitely worth doing if you havena€™t yet the time for a fully self-reliant source of your food. With raised bed, they don’t have to worry about that since it could make the wild grass and plants unable to grow near your vegetables. For people that have a difficult access to good soil for gardening, raised bed vegetable gardening could be the best solutions if they really want to put gardening as a hobby or activity. With the higher beds, killing the weeds and the wild plants will be much easier and less tiring and also take less time than the normal vegetable gardening. People can’t grow potatoes in the raised bed gardening because its roots could not grow well with the space that the raised beds gardening provide. The most common way that people do for building a raised bed is to use good and durable wood and make a box without the bottom surface.
They could use decorative rocks instead of wooden for the boxes material that could make the raised beds looks better. My advocacy of regular rectangular shaped beds for example was arrived at not because I particularly like order and certainly not through any love of symmetry! Space for permanent (as distinct from annual) herbs and vegetables such as thyme, rosemary, sage, bay, asparagus, rhubarb, and habitat for beneficial insects, fruit, and ornamental flowers for cutting are all in addition. Ia€™ve found it most flexible to give them the shade with movable clothes or other temporary techniques rather than having beds permanently albeit lightly shaded through the summer, which locks you into inadequate sunlight and warmth if there are long spells of cooler weather. A radiata pine across the road from our vegetable garden at Niwajiri got so big that a third of our garden received no direct sun during the winter and early spring, so with the co-operative neighboura€™s approval we paid for its removal. It will also improve (in some cases dramatically) the nutritional value and flavour of your produce. These can be broken up if necessary, but it consumes more space and reduces flexibility of planting even if only a little.
Having tried tangling and intertwining a€?habitata€? species (as distinct from harvestable crops) with those crops here at least, there is little doubt that the habitat is better near-by than mixed in. If they are inside one tends to lean them against the shed or other things where they get in the way, fall over, and even get left out in the weather. I prefer the really big bulk bins for the organic fertilisers I make up myself (see Steve Solomona€™s book for recipes) on wheels so I can move them around without breaking my back. People could still grow lettuce, tomatoes and many other plants since the vegetable gardening almost the same with the normal vegetable gardening. The last step is to make a middle separator between the first section and the second section of the bed. I hope people could make a garden easier with this tips and information about raised bed vegetable gardening.
However, I have found them by far the most adaptable for rotation and variety of crops (both of which are essential), and being able to use a number of tools and infrastructures - see below a€“ all of which make the job a pleasure, rather than a drag. I have observed though, that many of what we affectionately call a€?the old Italian gardensa€? in Adelaide, have their vegetable garden beds lightly festooned above with grape vines on high trellises or other fruit trees, but Ia€™ve never seen them with total cover. At first glance this may seem extravagant, but our garden is much more productive as a result, because the soil doesna€™t get so bitterly cold in winter and it warms up much earlier in spring. I certainly would not make them longer than 12 mts in a single block as walking back and forth around them becomes tedious, and you should never tread on your soil if you can possibly avoid it. I suspect ita€™s because while in the wild the community of plants and creatures in any one particular location are constantly changing, while your available space probably isna€™t, and secondly, that even heirloom varieties are at least hundreds if not nearer or more than thousands of generations from their original genetic make-up. The garbage that is passed off as tools by most garden centres, hardware and chain stores are an absolute waste of your money, and the need to keep replacing them is designed to maximise profits for all concerned except you, with no concern for the environmental damage caused by such unnecessary waste and consumption. We also have a platform about 70mm off the ground to store bags of lime, dolomite, blood and bone, volcanic rock dust etc so that if the floor gets damp theya€™re not affected. It needs a desk big enough to spread out your charts to work on as well as space for reference books, wall space to hold all the current charts for quick and easy reference when you do have muddy hands, and ideally storage for previous years charts and notes, which are a huge help for planning and problem solving. And after that person could use the raised bed vegetable gardening tips that people could find on the internet and gardening books. I calculate the a€?financial pay-backa€? from the increased production to be only 7 years, and the emotional pay back was immediate! The conditions theya€™ve been selected for consciously and by circumstance in human-made and managed vegetable gardens for those generations in most respects are completely different from their wild ancestorsa€™ conditions.
You also need to be able to clean and dry your hands easily before touching those charts and desk, or they quickly get dirty and difficult to write on or even read. If you are feeding more people, add more length, not width, and if necessary add more beds, but lay them out if possible so that you can have effectively 4 distinct beds for planning and rotation purposes.

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