Best mulch vegetable gardens,12x16 garden shed plans,organic farmers market taipei - Plans On 2016

Author: admin, 25.07.2014. Category: Organic Products

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But once I started gardening, I realized what a crucial role mulch plays in the home landscape.
And of course, mulch can play an important insulating role too - keeping the plant's roots warmer in winter (particularly important if you like to push zonal limits in your choice of perennials) and cooler in the summer.
Water from hard rains that hits unmulched clay soil is likely to cause erosion and soil compaction. So yeah, near as I can tell from personal experience and certainly in terms of conventional wisdom, mulch is good. I didn't have enough pine straw mulch to cover all of my beds, but I probably did half of them (some on my own, some with my wife's help) in about 1 hour -- and at least 10 minutes of that time was removing some dead annuals (Tagetes patula) so that I they wouldn't get in the way of the mulch. You can hardwood and pine bark mulches delivered by the cubic yard via dump truck, but there's certainly a fair amount of pollution involved in having dump trucks make those home deliveries. It seems hard (at least through Googling) to get any authoritative information as to whether pallet mulches contain any harmful preservatives or pesticides, but it seems logical to me that they might contain such chemicals since I'm sure the pallet buyers want their pallets to last as long as possible. Anyway, to make a long story short (too late), pine straw mulch doesn't have any of those issues. From a packaging standpoint, pine straw mulch doesn't typically come in bags, so you don't have to worry about the environmental costs of manufacturing and disposing of those plastic bags. The ties that bound the pine straw bales I bought were some sort of tough plastic, but I don't see any reason why the bales couldn't be bound with cord made from jute, hemp or some other natural fiber, and I presume that some pine straw bale packagers do bind their product that way. And then there's the simple fact that you don't need to cut down a tree to make pine straw mulch.
The fact that the bales are so light probably cuts down on the environmental costs of shipping since I believe that weight is a major factor in how much fuel it takes to transport a product. By contrast, according to Lowe's estimate, you would only need 20 bales of pine straw, which would only cost $80 (or $130 at the higher nursery price). Of course, if you're buying a lot of mulch, it probably makes sense financially (and from an eco perspective of not having scores of leftover plastic bags) to buy it by the scoop. So any way you look at it, I'd say the pine straw mulch is significantly less expensive (say from 50% to 85% less expensive). Update - Well, unfortunately some of the new pine straw mulch I put down did blow around a little, especially on one of the beds that was most exposed.
There's some more good advice here from a professional landscaper on the best way to install pine straw mulch. Will the pine straw decompose so quickly that it becomes cost prohibitive to keep the beds properly mulched? I anticipate that I'll need to add some additional pine straw mulch - perhaps another six bales - to get good coverage over the rest of my beds and deepen the mulch a little on the beds I've already mulched. The one concern I have - which sounded sensible to me when my landscaper mentioned it - is that small perennials and groundcovers can get lost in a pine straw mulch. I'm also still interested in using a variety of ground covers instead of or in addition to mulch, but ground covers take time to fill in, so I think the mulch will be very welcome at least in the short-term.
Oh and some people are either concerned or excited about the supposed ability of pine needles to add a bit of acidity to the soil.
There are many other mulch options that I did not touch on above, most of which I've investigated and then discarded for one reason or another.
PS - If you'd like to stay abreast of the latest developments at Garden of Aaron, you can now subscribe via email! It supplies seeds of the highest purity and germination capability, which is ensured by rigorous quality control and its own research and development  programmes, supported by ongoing research and testing.
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I had no trouble navigating through all tabs and related info ended up being truly simple to do to access. I am not sure whether this post is written by him as no one else know such detailed about my trouble. I did however expertise some technical issues using this web site, since I experienced to reload the web site lots of times previous to I could get it to load properly. Organic mulches - which in this neck of the woods typically means pine bark mulch or hardwood mulch - break down over time (some kinds faster than others) and add organic material to the soil. Where unmulched soil quickly bakes to concrete in the summer Tennessee sun, mulched soil has a decent chance of staying cooler and more workable. You probably can't tell, but I'd actually added quite a bit of shredded pine bark mulch to this area over the past couple of years (most recently around the newly planted camellia and fothergilla shrubs). 20 bags of hardwood or pine bark mulch = 20 plastic bags decades (centuries?) to decompose in a landfill.
Apparently this is a big problem with cypress forests in Louisiana, according to an article from the Virginia Native Plant Society.
I guess that sort of recycling is eco-friendly in a way, but who knows where those shipping containers have been or what was stored on them. I can tell you that you definitely do not need a heavy duty dump truck to transport a lot of pine straw bales. Cost and coverage - According to the Lowe's website, a 2 cubic foot bag of mulch costs between $2 and $5.
The day our three cubic yards of mushroom compost was delivered, rain was forecast for the next day. This is the type of perennial that I would be worried about killing with a pine straw mulch.
I admit this is purely subjective, but I think the pine straw mulch looks much nicer than the bark and wood mulches. This is important for me because I plan to plant more perennials in the beds and even sow some annual flower seeds. But it was alleviated when I saw that the professional landscaper we hired to redo our hilly front yard suggested using pine straw around the trees and perennials. One nursery worker who unfortunately convinced me not to buy pine straw mulch a year ago (probably because his nursery didn't carry it) told me that pine straw mulch decomposed too quickly to be useful.
After that, I'm thinking I really won't mind freshening up and adding to the mulch ever year or two with another six or so bales. I can see how that could be an issue, but it doesn't seem like much of a hardship to just keep the pine straw pulled back from those smaller plants. I'm a little concerned that pine straw mulch could be a welcoming environment for the pygmy rattlesnake. Apparently, dust and dirt blows on top of the stone and gravel, creating a growing medium in which weeds can sprout.
I did try to rake leaves from my crape myrtles and maple into my garden beds, but those will decompose so quickly that they won't provide weed suppression benefits.
Plus I'm not sure how I would feel about this aesthetically, although I could see it working in a veggie garden. But I'm guessing they would decompose too fast to use as a real mulch and that they would function better as a so-called green manure. Reading this info So i am happy to convey that I have an incredibly good uncanny feeling I discovered just what I needed.
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This is particularly important if you're working with heavy crap - I mean heavy clay - soil to begin with. Mulch protects the soil and ideally lets the water filter in and get absorbed where it is needed. As I said above, most people in my region seem to prefer the pine bark or hardwood mulches. You just carry the bale to the bed where you want to spread the mulch, cut the two cords binding it, then start grabbing handfuls of the pine straw and shaking it where you want to distribute it so that it falls naturally into place.
The color will change over time and get a bit darker and redder after a rain, lighter with sunshine and age, but I think it looks beautiful in all its many shades. So all your have to do as I understand it is gather up the needles from underneath the pine trees, pack them into bales and cart them away as mulch. In fact, where my former car (Honda Insight) was weighed down to the point that it became a Low Rider when I once tried to transport ~20 bags of mushroom compost, I didn't even notice any weight issues at all with 6 pine straw bales in the back of my Toyota Prius. The Grit website notes that 2 cubic feet of mulch will cover 12 square feet of soil to a depth of about 2 inches.
You'd still need 83 bags (!) of mulch to get that much coverage, which would cost $166 to $415, depending on whether or not you bought the cheapest or most expensive mulch.
I saw several sources online saying that 1 cubic yard of mulch would cover about 100 square feet. I'll have to be vigilant to make sure it doesn't get smothered and to uncover it completely come springtime.


The big bark pieces look messy to me, can be painful to dig through and take forever to decompose. I always loved the way that the pine needles looked beneath a big pine tree on our property where I grew up in Pennsylvania.
So I need to be able to push back mulch from certain parts of the bed, sow the seeds or add a new perennial, then move the mulch back into place later on. We get a lot of heavy rains here and often I'd find hardwood mulch scattered onto the driveway after a big rain. We had some really strong winds and rains after he worked on the landscape and the mulch seemed to hold up like a champ. I found out later that I should have watered it down to prevent some of it from blowing away and shifting when we had some windy weather come through.
And if the pine straw covers up some of the really low groundcovers - like Blue Star Creeper - well that means that theoretically it's also smothering a lot of low-growing weeds.
One commentator on GardenWeb suggested stomping or hitting the ground with a rake to warn off snakes and give them time to slither off. In any case, I do have some acid-loving plants like camellias, azaleas and a gardenia in the front bed who will probably be very happy if the pine straw mulch acidifies the soil even a little bit. People also seem to think it's hard to add plants (bushes, perennials, etc.) into the stone mulches. Don't want that anywhere near my veggies and certainly wouldn't want children playing on it. Incidentally, buckwheat hulls are an interesting mulch option, but as Cornell notes, they're typically very expensive compared to other mulches and prone to blowing. I most certainly will make sure to do not forget this website and give it a look on a constant basis. I such a lot indubitably will make certain to do not fail to remember this website and provides it a look regularly.
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It's what you find in abundance at the big box hardware stores and in bulk at plant nurseries.
Extrapolating, I feel I could probably have mulched all the foundation beds with pine straw in less than 2 hours -- a small fraction of the time and effort that it took to spread the mushroom compost mulch. In fact, the bales were so light that they were skittering around in the cargo area when I turned sharp corners.
If you wanted thicker mulch coverage, you'd be looking at 125 bags of mulch ($250 to $625). Alternatively, maybe I'll need to decide in certain beds either to have low-growing groundcovers or to have pine straw mulch. The pine fines (finely ground pine bark) disappears really quickly and soon looks (and acts) just like bare dirt. So maybe it's pure nostalgia, but it's just a joyful thing for me to look at the pine needle mulch. Just as the pine straw mulch is easy to initially distribute, it seems incredibly easy to rearrange as needed.
It's still only been a few days since I put down the pine strawn mulch, but we had some significant rain last night and the straw doesn't seem to have gone anywhere. So I figured it would do even better on the flatter landscape beds near to the house and so far it has performed up to expectations.
The bar is pretty low here since the (admittedly somewhat thin levels of) bark mulches did not seem to suppress weeds at all.
And one of our neighbors (from the Carolinas, where pine straw mulch is apparently very common) has had pine straw mulch installed for a year now and seem to have excellent weed suppression and the mulch seems to have persisted just fine. And that's a trade-off I'm willing to make, considering I mainly grew the Blue Star Creeper to outcompete the weeds. But the smell apparently fades quickly - which happened with some cedar mulch I spread a while ago - and the mulch is supposedly so light and fluffy that it blows and washes away easily.
Anyway I’m adding this RSS to my e-mail and could look out for a lot more of your respective interesting content. Spreading a heavy, thick and uniform layer of shredded pine bark mulch over this whole bed would be expensive and difficult.
And even though a landscaper rightfully warned me that you have to be careful not to cover smaller perennials, with some careful scattering, I think you can actually make perennials really pop more prominently against the pine straw background. So that means you're under time pressure to work like mad to get the mulch (or compost) distributed before the rains arrive. And I think the plants look better against the mulch - it provides a uniform background against which they really pop and seem brighter, greener and more vibrant. One commentator on GardenWeb says that spreading pine needle mulch thickly helps keep it in place.
In a more sheltered location, watering down newly laid pine straw might not be as crucial, but I'll certainly plan on doing it next time time I scatter pine straw mulch. Anyway, I don't think that the larger perennials - and by large, I mean even those that are 4-6 inches high like Sweet Woodruff or Rozanne Perennial Geranium - will have any trouble holding their own against the pine straw mulch. I've got some sitting in a small bed by the mailbox that are still there from last autumn, so maybe 15 months now. Typically you have to distribute them by dumping the bag into a wheelbarrow and then using a big spade or shovel to distribute the mulch throughout your bed. Oh yeah, and the fact that I've never seen cocoa shell mulch ever in any local nursery or garden supply store.
I found simply the info I already searched all over the place and simply could not come across.
And wouldn't the shells need to be shipped in from a tropical climate where cocoa beans are grown. And it's a real mess trying to shovel the mulch off your driveway without damaging the driveway surface. According to this site, it seems like maybe I should have watered the pine straw after I spread it to settle it into place. So I'm all for leaf mulch on occasion and in the right place or added to a compost pile perhaps, but I don't think it's a realistic long-term mulch solution for many people.
Here's one guy who took this path-less-traveled and tried to grow his own mulch using oats. Of course, you could have the dump truck unload it on your grass, but that would probably carry its own set of challenges and potential damage to the turf, especially if some of the mulch was sitting there for days. The pine straw mulch put down professionally a month ago still seems to have stayed in place nicely.
Unless the beans were shipped to the local area anyway for processing in which case I guess using the shells for mulch would just be creative reuse of something that would otherwise be treated as a waste product. If anyone has any advice or experience with preventing pine straw mulch from going airborne, I'd appreciate your insights.



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