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The classic shape is the traditional Greenland hunting kayak with its long overhangs at bow and stern.
Overhanging ends are not essential but if a kayak is too short it will be slow and wet, and if it is too wide it will roll harshly in a choppy sea. The sea kayak existed in the Arctic in very nearly its modern form before contact with Europeans, perhaps for as much as 3500 years.
All of today's touring sea kayak designs would look very familiar to a kayaker from the 1970s, apart from a tendency for some kayaks to get fatter which is a bit of a mixed blessing. Do you want the usual rigid kayak or do you need something you can store in a cupboard and take on an aircraft? Women are usually not only smaller than men but less top-heavy, which means they often feel happy in a slim, fast kayak which a man would find unstable. Most kayaking is about experiencing the environment rather than covering long distances with a heavy load.
If you want to explore sea caves and play in water pouring over reefs and rushing past weed-covered boulders (rock-hopping) then your kayak should also have more rocker for manoeuvrability.
If you want to cover long distances, you probably want a long sea kayak with a keel line which is almost straight. If you want to cover a lot of distance in one day, or be able to surf even the shallowest offshore swell, these are the kayaks for you. They remain a minority choice because of their low stability, and because they tend to be built for light weight and speed rather than strength.
The classic Inuit hunting kayak from Greenland is slim, narrow and curved, with a very angular cross-section. This one is 53 cm wide, 5.2 metres long and has quite low volume which makes it easy to roll. The hull shape of most Greenland kayaks consists of four flat panels, each going from one end to the other. A West Greenland-type hunting kayak may have extremely low volume, being as little as 46 cm wide and 23 cm deep. Many of the Greenland designs now made in Britain are descended from a single example made by Emanuele Korneliussen in the West Greenland village of Igdlorssuit (now Illorsuit) in 1959 for a university student called Ken Taylor.
It looked so good and performed so well that a fibreglass version was put into commercial production as the Anas Acuta (Latin name of the pintail duck). At first glance there may be little difference between a round-bilge boat and a Greenland kayak. Round-bilge kayaks very often have shorter overhangs than Greenland kayaks and they are usually a little wider and deeper. An expedition boat looks exactly the same as a dayboat until you compare them side by side.
Within each of the above categories you will find some kayaks which are designed to go fast, at the expense of manoeuvrability and stability.
Sea kayaks and skis designed and built specifically for racing are very slim, light and rigid. Speed is attractive, and these are very attractive boats, but that does not mean they are suitable for general leisure use. Most sea kayakers like to stop paddling from time to time, have a rest, look around, eat something or take a photo, and they prefer a kayak which is just stable enough to do this at sea in calm conditions. Manufacturers usually give a helpful description of the qualities of any particular kayak, but the only way to find out if it suits you is to paddle one at sea. If the seat is removable, you can temporarily reduce the centre of gravity by taking it out and just sitting on the bottom, on a piece of thin foam, until you feel confident. Practically everything for use on the sea has rocker - surfboards, sailboards, yacht tenders, rowing boats, racing dinghies, multihulls, keelboats, powerboats, ferries, even small cargo ships. The red boat with high rocker is intended for day trips by sea kayakers who like playing in the surf and amongst caves and rocks.
Low volume can be good, but very low volume is not necessarily better, especially if you may find yourself in surf or trying to rescue somebody.
It might suit an experienced recreational kayaker who will find it fast and very easy to roll.
Quite small changes to a kayak's length, width, depth and cross-sectional shape can make a big difference to its volume, so it is not easy to estimate by eye. Start to worry if the designer moves the cockpit backwards away from the centre, or makes the ends unusually skinny. The volume and stability of the centre of a kayak should be carried a good distance towards the ends. An Ocean cockpit can be a problem if the back of the cockpit is a few centimetres too high because it makes it very hard to get out of the kayak alongside a high dock or a slippery boulder.
Called keyhole cockpits, they are typically 80-85 cm long and they're possible only because a top-quality modern spraydeck made of wetsuit material can be that big and still stay solidly in place and waterproof in big surf.
Keyhole cockpits are very reassuring to anxious new kayakers and great on a long trip if you start to get sore legs or buttocks, because you can change the position of your legs from time to time. To roll your kayak, it is good if the back of the cockpit is of a height and shape which allows you to lean backwards until the back of your head is more or less touching the rear deck. A kayak which will stay away from rocks can have a separate seat of PE foam which sits on the bottom.
If your seat is too flat, you'll probably find that your legs get numb and tingly after an hour or so. You can buy PE foam in sheets 4 mm or 6 mm thick with a waterproof self-adhesive backing from a good kayak shop.
It's good to have something on the underside of the deck, at the front of the cockpit, for your knees to grip when you roll or do deep support strokes. If you have a fibreglass or wood kayak with no knee brace at all, you can install two pieces of wood under the front of the cockpit. Most sea kayaks have a high front deck to give enough room for the kayaker's knees and feet, and a low, almost flat rear deck. The low rear deck enables the kayaker to lie right back during a kayak roll, provides a convenient flat surface on which to store a spare paddle, and is low enough for a swimmer to climb onto during a rescue. Traditional sit-in lifeguard kayaks that are designed for regular rescue work have a slightly concave rear deck with a raised edge running around it like a wall 3 cm high.
You'd maybe expect that a kayak with a high front deck and low rear deck would turn downwind any time the wind blows from the side. This bundle has 15 comparison charts that includes a total 75 products and over 120 criteria compared.
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The design was first tested 3500 years ago in the Arctic and has been polished by millennia of ice and blood.
We would say that it must be capable of covering long distances, must behave well in wind and waves, must protect you from cold and spray, and recover fast and easily from a capsize. That doesn't necessarily mean that the kayaker sits inside a cockpit which is sealed with a spraydeck.
It's the ability to avoid capsize, to roll and to carry out a tow or deep-water rescue that make a sea kayak a truly seaworthy craft. The major developments of the last ten years have been driven by economics rather than the demands of the sea. Folding kayaks are tough and some are very attractive, but portability comes at a price, usually both financial and in terms of reduced performance. The big manufacturers generally make at least one kayak intended for users weighing 50 kg to 60 kg. A commercially-made sea kayak is expensive if the user is likely to grow out of it in a year or so, which makes building a skin-on-frame or plywood kayak at home an attractive option. To carry a heavy or bulky load of food and camping equipment you need a kayak with medium or high volume. We leave out fast skis because they are delicate and unstable, ordinary polyethylene sit-on-tops because they are slow and heavy, and both because they don't provide the protection from waves and spray that is essential in a cool climate. The long overhangs, especially at the front, mean that its waterline length is considerably shorter. The bottom of the hull is a flat V-shape, the sides are almost vertical, and where the bottom meets the sides there is a sharp angle (the chine) which runs all the way from bow to stern.
Inuit kayak builders found it a very practical shape for a strong, light wooden frame which had to be covered with sealskin. It is designed to move through the water rather than skimming over it like the planing hull of a powerboat.
Such kayaks are hard to get into, not very stable, give a wet ride and are particularly prone to forward loop in steep waves when the front of the boat goes deep underwater, but they are good looking, fast and very easy to roll. They may both be the same length, width and depth, and they may have the same plan view and a similar profile. It looks quite attractive on the water but to reduce its weight the designer has made it shorter and to make it reassuring to beginners (s)he has made it wider. The expedition boat has a longer and deeper hull, which means extra volume so it will carry a heavier load. Being bigger and heavier than a dayboat it is harder to get on and off a vehicle without help, it may be too long to fit in your garage, and even if it is no wider than a dayboat, a longer kayak has more wetted surface which means more drag. They achieve this by being unusually narrow at the waterline, which means that when unladen they are unstable and can become a problem in windy conditions.
A few sea kayaks take this to such an extreme that they make up a design style of their own. For a high maximum speed, they have very little rocker and a long waterline achieved by having little or no overhang. A racing kayak is pleasure to carry to the water, but may be hard to handle in rough water, and when you stop it may capsize in the blink of an eye unless you make constant use of your paddle to stay upright. During the Liffey Descent or the old Exe Descent, which are river marathons with big weirs, you could see plenty of K1 and K2 flat water race boats snap into two or three pieces. A suitable sea kayak probably will feel a little tippy at first, even if you are an experienced user of river kayaks. If conditions are not calm, they are happy to raft up next to a friend for a few minutes, or use the paddle to scull lightly for support while resting. As a guideline for dayboats, any hard-chine Greenland kayak with a total width of 52 cm or more, and any round-bilge kayak with a width of 54 cm or more, is likely to be stable enough for a newcomer to sea kayaking. Rocker helps them turn right and left, it helps the bow rise to a wave, and it helps streamline the boat so it parts the water efficiently. Most sea kayaks are unisex and have 300-400 litres, which is enough volume to support the weight of a man. An experienced kayaker sees at once that they are slow, have a harsh motion in choppy water and are hard to paddle in windy conditions. A kayak with very hollow, concave shapes towards the bow and stern will be less stable and also prone to misbehave in steep waves.
You can adjust it by gluing and duct-taping thin layers of closed-cell PE foam onto the front of the seat, under your thighs. By pressing your feet against the footrest you can brace your knees firmly under the deck. Traditional skin-on-frame kayaks have an arched wooden beam across the front of the cockpit called the masik which makes an excellent knee brace. It gives the front end of the boat a shape and volume which helps it rise up when it enters a wave.
There are gaps at intervals in the raised edge so that water can flood sideways off the deck. The underwater shape is equally important and most sea kayaks have a slight tendency to turn upwind, like a weathercock, when a strong wind blows from the side.
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We got this image from the net we consider would be probably the most representative photos for gia dola cho den. Given the right training and equipment, that makes it safe for use all year on exposed coastlines. That is certainly your editor's choice, because it keeps him warm and fairly dry so he can go out all year round. Then there is an intermediate range of plastic sandwich materials including Royalex, Duralex, Airalite & Carbonlite. Any more and it will be too heavy to carry solo, any less and it is unlikely to be tough enough to hit rocks and keep going.
To get higher volume, the designer has to increase one or all of the kayak's length, width and depth. To achieve maximum waterline length, which means better streamlining and a higher potential maximum speed, these kayaks have little overhang at the ends. They do not feel particularly tippy while you are going along, except in a rough sea, but when you stop you may feel the need to use your paddle constantly, sculling for support in order to stay upright.
The rear deck is another flat panel, horizontal this time, and the front deck is usually raised in a long ridge to make room for the kayaker's knees and feet.
With very little more effort or wood they could have built double-chine or triple-chine kayaks with a more rounded hull cross-section.
Except in one-design classes, serious race boats never have hard chines because they give the hull more underwater surface area than necessary and in calm water they create eddy currents along the chines. The hard chine shape can certainly give high secondary stability which enables a kayaker to stay in balance when leaning a very narrow kayak over to the side. Another British kayaker wanted a slightly wider and deeper version because he was taller and heavier than the average Greenlander. For the cross-section of a modified Greenland kayak of moderately high volume, see the first illustration at Kayak Stability.
A semi-circular underwater cross-section would be too unstable, so the bottom of the kayak is almost flat for a metre or so in front and behind the seat.


Some owners of true expedition kayaks have to put 25 kg of ballast in each end before they set off, using bags of sand or stones. A kayak may encounter the same forces at sea, although probably not during an organised race. Total width is the easiest indicator, and the only one stated in many manufacturer's catalogues, but the kayak's width at the waterline, the shape of its cross-section, the height of the seat and the kayaker's own height and build are equally important. The height of the paddler's centre of gravity, and therefore the height of the kayak seat, is a crucial factor in stability. Paint it white and it might suit a Greenland seal hunter because seals can't easily see it coming. They taper gently towards the ends until there is almost no volume at all in the front and rear 20 cm. The idea was tried in the 1970s but it looked slightly odd and was a problem in cross-winds. Skinny ends are not good unless you really like cartwheeling end-over-end towards the beach when landing through surf. This is good when you grind over a rock because the hull is able to flex and is less likely to be damaged. They just roll up a piece of PE foam camping mattress, put it on the floor of the kayak and sit on that.
White-water and surf kayakers often pad the vertical sides of their seats to make them a tight fit, which gives them a better connection to the kayak. If you've ever tried paddling your kayak with your legs in the cockpit but your bottom on the rear deck, you'll know that you're much less stable with your weight 8 or 10 centimetres higher than usual. Otherwise when you roll your body may twist around so far that your spraydeck pops off, or you may simply fall out of the kayak. As with kayak seats, above, you can make it fit you better by gluing in a few layers of thin polyethylene foam.
Fix them under the front of the cockpit in a horizontal arrowhead shape, with the point under the front of the cockpit and the back of the arrowhead under the side decks, above the thighs. Structurally, a pointed arch is well able to support weight and this helps the front deck resist the crushing weight of some deep-water rescue techniques. This tendency is acceptable as long as it is slight, but many kayaks are fitted with an adjustable skeg or rudder to counteract it. However sit-on-top kayaks are very, very popular in warm climates and with owners who intend to go out mainly in nice summer weather. They look cute and they are light to carry, but they are slow, behave badly in rough water or windy conditions and are almost too fat to roll. For the best performance and long life but at nearly twice the price of polyethylene, there is composite construction which includes fibreglass, kevlar & similar reinforced plastics. We have also left out kayaks which are too wide to roll, although some of them have achieved great things on the sea. Because sea kayaks are hard to turn when upright, kayakers often do lean them over while turning left or right. Like most kayaks which are close to the Greenland model it is a dayboat, not intended to carry a heavy load, and has quite a lot of rocker which makes it more manoeuvrable. It has no rocker at all for most of its length and it does not much like rough water or surf. That can be a real surprise for any kind friend who offers to help carry the boat up the beach at lunch time.
It makes a nice slim day-boat for a 90 kg man who seldom carries more than a repair kit and lunch. There is enough room inside for your sandwiches and repair kit, but not enough to go camping. A few have the fattest point slightly behind the cockpit (Swedish form) and a few have it slightly in front (fish form).
And they are wonderful on a choppy day when you are trying to get into your boat from a seaweed-covered rock. Polyethylene kayaks often have a rotomoulded polyethylene seat with vertical sides to stop you sliding sideways during a kayak roll. A sea kayaker also benefits from having a close-fitting seat and there's a lot to be said for customising an uncomfortable or over-large seat. If your foam is not self-adhesive, you can stick it on with contact adhesive such as Evostik, or preferably with a polyurethane marine sealant such as Sikaflex. If you take an inexperienced guest out kayaking you can make their life easier if you have a kayak with a removable seat.
Ideally, if a couple of mountain gorillas picked up your kayak, turned it upside down and tried to shake you out, they wouldn't manage it. Lovers of slim traditional kayaks with a width of 55 cm or less say you don't sit in your kayak, you wear it. It is also true that if you hit a rock in a hard chine boat, the sharp angle is vulnerable to damage.
If it has very low rocker it will want to go in a straight line, and only in a straight line, and it may feel unstable except on flat water. It actually has fewer litres than either the expedition kayak, which probably most kayakers would think of as medium volume, or the ocean race kayak which many would describe as low volume.
300 litres would also suit a 50 kg woman who intends to do a lot of expeditions with a 40 kg load of equipment and supplies. A kayak must not only support its own weight (25 kg), the weight of the kayaker (55-85 kg) and the occasional load. Serious racers prefer Swedish form because it permits a slightly more efficient paddle stroke.
This is to reduce a sea kayak's natural tendency to go deep underwater when going down a steep wave front. Give the relevant part of the hull a good scrub with a stiff brush and lots of fresh water first, to get the salt off. This is great for carrying an exhausted swimmer, particularly if the rear of the kayak has increased volume so that the swimmer's weight does not cause the front of the kayak to come up out of the water.
When paddled around without a spraydeck or basic knowledge they're a limited sort of fun, and not really safe even in a harbour.
It has less rocker and more waterline length so it is less manoeuvrable but faster in a straight line. You may be surprised how far you can lean without needing to use your paddle to support yourself. The expedition kayak has low rocker, the race kayak has very little, and the yellow boat has more or less zero rocker. It should also have enough volume to keep its deck above water most of the time and in most conditions. Known as pearl diving, pearling or purling, this is bad in itself because it slams on the brakes and makes the kayak unstable.
With their weight a couple of centimetres lower they'll feel much more confident (until their legs go numb!). Like the red boat it has fairly low volume, but the rear deck has been raised several centimetres to give more storage space. It is a fast dayboat which looks very nice on the water and could be used for the occasional camping weekend.



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