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Shell Helix 0w40 can be shipped to the US, but why bother when there's stuff like M1 0w40 that's equivalent or betteR? No idea about Mitsubishi's Diamond ATF version, but the Hyundai SPIII version sold in the US is made by Petro Canada IIRC.
Man those bottles look weird???Anyway, I took the liberty of copying the part number off the bottle and maybe I'll get somewhere with this to start. Spoke to someone I know at the dealership, who's been there for the past 25 years and knows what he's on about. Reqarding the lower volume, just check the oil level regularly like most people on this site do anyways, top off as necesary. I didn't have a digi cam back then: so here's is a google pic, but same color and model as I had, etc. My first car was my great aunts 1981 Omega, only real differences from the picture are that mine was more of a gold colour, had an olds hood ornament, body coloured mirrors and bigger chrome hub caps.
Don't have a pic, but it was a 1965 Simca 1000 (red) similar to the car pictured in this ad. I am facing problem with uneven wear of my rear tyres wherein they are wearing out faster on the outer side.
I need advise and views from members on how I should get this issue sorted out most economically? What you might have is that the tyres have a positive camber and your observation on putting the sims on bottom bolts is correct. Originally Posted by blackwasp Hi, I would like to know when exactly this problem cropped up.
However, 2 weeks ago, I was advised by my tyre shop guy to visit a mechanic in Sikandarpur, Gurgaon who actually turned out to be a much better guy than I had expected.
It is with great disappointment that I’m writing you this mail regarding an issue with my car that is still not resolved after more than 6 months.
It is so sad to see that till today the service center in my city (Vecto motors) has not been able to detect the source of the problem let alone solving it. Since March, I have taken the vehicle to the service center every time the problem has surfaced (at least 4 times). Each time the vehicle was kept for a day or two and returned back to me saying that there was some software updated and the problem was solved!
I have read in some online forums that some other people also have faced the same issues in other cities. On September 22nd 2015, I left the car in the Vecto motors Service centre on Hosur road and told them that I’ll not take the vehicle back till it is completely solved.
I have also reached out to the Fiat Customer care and registered a complaint (1-156136xxxx) but even that has not got me any good news and faced same false promises also (Miss. The problem I had is I was hearing sound similar to running water when I took the car for vellore 15 days back.
The 1.4 feels underpowered on the open highway, but give her the curves and she sure does make up for it. During my last service at 45k i got all the fluids, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter replaced. It's 12% lighter at 0C.Of the the 3 oil choices you've provided, Shell Helix 0W-40 would likely be my first choice although I'd like to see the info on a PDS first.


It would be great if someone could post UOA?s over the mentioned oils,cant seem to find many in the search:) From my experience, GC is turbo safe. It's too bad we can't, IFAIK, get those European Helix grades hear in NA as they look to be a good alternative to M1 0W-40. The third picture was taken within 10 minutes of the first two:I cleaned my air filter twice today, and I think it'd be an idea to buy a couple of filters to keep in the back.
Where did you come up with this?I thought Hyundai, used Mitsubishi's fluid and was the same? Dia and Dia Queen would be the same company though.For any Mitsubishi-built transmission, Diamond or DiaQueen SP is the fluid to use, however. Used to use Motorcraft Mercon V for my Aisin-Warner transmission, but since this is also compatible, I decided to give it ago. However, this does not mean, in any way that, I am giving up on this search for the Dia ATF SP. Mitsubishi ATF SP-III and Mitsubishi Genuine Engine Oil 15W-40 are both supplied by the same company - NMOC (Nippon-Mitsubishi Oil Corporation), now called the Nippon Oil Corporation since 2002. Ran great up until 90K when the flywheel had some broken teeth, the quote to fix it was around a grand-she was traded in on my 88 pulsar the next day.
Should I get to ask this guy to put those "sims" on the bottom bolts which I feel can adjust for the bend? He checked the tyre, the wheel and then the wheel hub (right rear when seen from front) thoroughly.
Every time the car crosses 2500 rpm in 4th and 5th gears, this lamp comes on with a warning beep. I told this to the service center, and asked them to check and replace the turbo unit under warranty. Since then, everyday I’ve been following it up with them and everyday they are saying vehicle will be ready by evening. I work in an automotive company too and a field complaint is treated with highest priority and made sure the problem is solved at the earliest. If I’m disappointed here too then it will force me to think of escalating this further. The service advisor called me now and said that when he tried to top up the fluids the coolant is completely dark as the engine oil got mixed with coolant. In spite of some spirited driving and high revving, I managed 14.9kmpl over 500 km (MID reading), which actually surprised me. Now that I am changing, I thought why not go for something which can also incorporate a screen that can be used to connect a reverse camera and GPS.
But don't know where to look for someone who can help me with a customs build on the center console. Mobil 1 0w40 is a very popular choice for hopped-up European vehicles over here - but honestly I would use whatever 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic that's the least expensive. Had the chrome shifter between the buckets,the Rocket 350,and matching blue cutlass mag wheels. He failed to tell me it had a stolen plate, and I was pulled by the police about a month later and the car was impounded (lol!). He suspected wither a rim or a hub bend and using a simple thread he measured the distance from centre of hub to periphery and could easily find difference of about 2-3 mm which he said is enough to make that uneven wear.


But I’m not seeing anything of that sort but only casual attitude from everyone whom I have contacted till now. I test drove the Abarth just before this trip, and that gearbox feel is much better than our car. Since the car can take only a single DIN HU, the only viable option seemed JVC KD AV 300 which has a screen albeit a small one (3").
To be honest I would love to give the GC a try but am kinda worried because my engine has around 100k on it and has an ECU upgrade, mufflersystem, fmic and more of that good stuff to produce more power.
I know this sounds crazy but it may be the ONLY way to get behind the story since Mitsubishi is so lumped in with other fluids to replace it with, the OEM recommendation just gets lost in the shuffle, when it should be it's own specification, just like Toyota is with Type IV and so on.There is something NOT similar with this fluid & later versions, which needs to be discussed, hence why this and the other Mitsubishi transmission fluid improvements should get it's own specification.
For reference, here is the stuff that is now being sold in the Middle East and some Far Eastern markets (if you require larger size images, let me know):No specifications or anything printed at all, other than warnings, first aid, disposal and storage instructions. The company used to be called Nisseki, until it was bought over by the Nippon Oil Group, who later merged with Mitsubishi Oil in 1999 to form the Nippon-Mitsubishi Oil Corporation. Camber was checked at the time of buying Yokos (2 years ago) as well as when buying Michelin (3-4 months back). He told me he'd check out a hub with his friends and revert or else I'll have to buy new one for about 2-3 k.
I really do not know who is causing the delay, but in the end I’m suffering without a vehicle.
However since Pinto does not have ACC cord for remote switch on switch off along with ignition, the only way of retaining this functionality as well as speed volume control is by having a canbus convertor. Can't stand it when transmission fluids are lumped together to make it look like there all generic when it really is important to have the original OEM fluid whether it has been improved by a manufacturer or not. They are sourced from Thailand.As far as own specifications go, I've recently done a full ATF change on a 2001 Camry with an A140E transmission, using Toyota Type IV ATF. Mine had the 15" Pizza wheels on it (turbo Dodge ppl will know!)If I could find a mint Shelby Lancer and had the room, I'd get one in a heartbeat. However its plug n play and retains near stock look of center console plus has all the required functionalities. It broke the right rear shock from the body and punched a hole through the already rusted out wheel well. Being a stupid and poor sixteen year old, I just drove it on the spring until I got rid of it. Shell Rimula 15w40 costs around 350-400 a litre, you might need 5w40 just to be on the same side during winter. Contrary to that, the oil level in my Honda Civic is never dangerously low, even after 10-12k kms of driving.
I want to know How is the general quality of hardware and then the sound quality from the HU?
How can that be the same if two companies (according to Falcon LS) make different products??Are they really two companies, or is Dia just short termed for Diamond???Still learning here (clearing the confusion) please continue your help on this topic. Still would like to know where each company is?Is Diamond really Petro Canada in disguise????Please reply back.




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