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Very dark casual pants (navy, black) don't work in a wardrobe built around those principles. A lot of standard jackets (gray herringbone, navy blazer) and standard shoes (dark brown) don't work with those principles and navy trousers.
So you have to reinvent all the older ideas, go against the grain, etc., to make navy trousers work since most age-old staples of menswear are not going to work easily with navy trousers. These days navy and pants are very common, not so much with jacket and tie but with polos and button-down shirts and sweaters. I like the darkest thing on me to be my tie or my jacket or my glasses -- something that anchors the eye near my face.

Dark denim is navy, but this has such as characteristic texture, it works in ways that navy chinos or navy wool pants won't. If I was stuck with only navy pants I would probably start looking at outfits that work with dark jeans and try to get that to work.
Dewey is that Darker shoes, lighter pants and darker sports coat for the purpose of alternating contrast when wearing those 3 items?
Every time I tried pairing navy wool pants with a sport coat or blazer it just looked wrong. Pretty much the *only* trousers that do not work with the navy blazer, which has long been the definition of the versatile jacket, are navy and black.

But, I know a number of men who wear no tie and a gray jacket with navy chinos or navy wool pants (that are probably half of a suit). But this is only my personal experience and perception, I'm not speaking on behalf of SF and certainly not quoting any sartorial rules.
Manton often repeated both ideas, and after reading it from him so often I realized he was right, the history of menswear in the C20 was much more about darker shoes than trousers, and darker jackets than trousers.

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19.09.2014 admin

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