Changing vin numbers on motorcycles,mitsubishi canter vin number location,information about vin diesel zaragoza - Videos Download

The pressure regulator can be removed without removing the throttle body but you would need to have some experience replacing them to figure it out.
The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to post Please use English characters only. 12-21-10I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix that stopped running, I have put a new fuel pump, and new computer box on it, but it still wont start. 8-18-11I have a 1994 Buick Century and in the last month or so the engine started making a noise that  sounds as if it were literally was a diesel engine. It is possible you have low oil pressure, a bad lifter, or more likely one of the rocker arm studs has pulled out of the cylinder head. 8-25-11i have a 2000 chevy impala that keeps saying low coolant level but theres no leak that i can see and we changed the thermostat and reset the computer in the car and it still says that, what could it be?
10-5-11I have a 2000 chevy impala and temp gauge rises to the red but I don't heard any over heating or boiling noises but I do hear a kind of hissing noise. You should re-check all your connections, and make sure all vacuum lines are connected and routed properly. 10-26-11Regarding the 2004 3400 problem:You should make Sure you've properly seated your computer connector(s). 11-19-11I replaced the timing chain on a 3.1L 3100 V6 engine in a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. 12-6-11I have a 2000 Chevy Impala 3.8 and my heat get hot when riding in my neighbor but only blow out warm air when riding on the highway. 1-7-12I have a 1995 Chevy Monte Carlo Z34 when the outside temp is less than 50 the cold car revs 5000rpm then dies. 1-11-12I am having problems with a Pontiac Grand Am It is just very difficult to start it sounds like if it is getting to much fuel, because wen I push the gas half way it start. 1-15-12I have a 2001 Buick Century press on gas loud whistling no power after half throttle noise goes away can not get overt 30 mph could it be converter. The noise you are hearing is the exhaust trying to escape but cannot because your car has a plugged catalytic converter. 1-26-11I have a 1995 Chevy Monte Carlo Z34 when the outside temp is less than 50 the cold carrevs 5000rpm then dies. Most likely a leaking fuel pressure regulator (FPR) or a stuck open fuel injector causing a rich condition and smell of gas in the car.


If you have the 3400 dual overhead cam engine (DOHC) then you have a lower intake leaking vacuum. 2tone said:Rough idle stalling on warm start found that my pcv valve was bad not breathing like it should causing it to stall when it idled down. Using the 1 inch wrench loosen the nut that holds the fuel line to the lower part of the fuel pressure emulator. Remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine, remove the snap ring that holds the regulator in place. The light flashed low coolant all the time and it has plenty of coolant and its not running hot at all. If it idled fine before you did the heads, it has to be something you did in the reassembly process. The dash does not control the fans, the gauge shows what the computer thinks the temperature is.
If it is OK, you could have one of several problems- A sticking thermostat, plugged heater core, temperature door actuator motor in the dash, etc.
Although it does it with difficulty and for the first seconds the engine sounds like it is going to turn of and it smokes black.
Just pull the vacuum hose off of it after it has been off for a few minutes and look for gas to come out of it.
Replace crank sensor,fuel pump checked fuel injectors,after a few attempts to start,security light is on, will leave it alone for awhile,starts right up. Changed water pump, fine for a week, various other things(too many that I've forgotten but my mechanic certainly knows) next on list is the sensor, is this a possible gasket problem or just a sensor issue? I've replaced everything I know to and no luck wen idling it will overheat should both fans kick on or just one of them?
Replaced it and drove fine for short time and problem started again and again was told it was EVAP purge solenoid. This is easily demonstrated when one or more of the connectors related to the PCM is left unplugged. If it seems like it running rough, you may have switched push rod positions by accident, that will cause the car to die out or run rough. At time it will work fine, other times it will completely drop out and the electric fans will kick on.


Runs great when starting fluid is sprayed up the intake so I have spark I have no idea whats wrong and it's driving me up the wall. Check all fuses, then check with a test light that the injectors are getting a signal to fire.
If it is rich and the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) did not fix it, then your car probably has a leaking fuel injector. Place a rag around the regulator to catch and fuel that may spray and pull the reegulator out of the fuel rail then pull up on the regulator to remove to from the fuel line. If the check engine light is on, get the code scanned to see what might be causing the trouble.
And it never would go n low gear or od  then the trans went out and i put a new 4T60e trans in and it still doing the same thing. I have the exact same car and the exact same problem, I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel injectors and MAF Sensor, changed a broken intake manifold gasket, replaced the IAC, PCV, and EGR valves, and it STILL does it. I did also see when cleaning the butterfly that there is a opening just past the butterfly about the size of a dime that goes down had some carbon build up coming out of it.
It had been running fine, idle it had heat in the cab, but driving around the city the heat comes and goes in bursts. On takeoff it like its n 3rd gear  and will shift to 2nd if i shift it out by hand but still no OD. Taking the car on the highway the temperature gauge has hit the roof, sprayed out some coolant out of the overflow, but when I released some of the pressure via rad cap it drove fine on the highway, steady heat (minus in the cab, as it still comes and goes) I keep feeding it coolant but it does not want to keep it even though the cold level in the res is at the bottom when I checked the car cold. The fans seem to run but they are running slower and quieter then I remember, the oil is clean, and there is no sign of coolant in it. Also notable the upper rad hose had blown and was replaced, and I know the thermostat isn't faulty because when  the car reached operating temp the upper rad hose compressed and I assume that means the block sucked it in.



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