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Events at Ford Motor Company have been silently spelling the end for their bread-and-butter V8 of the last two decades. The 4.6 would be standard equipment in 1992 for the updated Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis.
1997 would see the expanded versatility of the 4.6 with its placement in the new F-150 and the E-Series vans that had been redesigned for 1992. While the intent of this article is to focus on the 2 valve version of the 4.6, it needs to be noted there were 3 valve and 4 valve versions offered at various times. The general driving characteristics of the 4.6 were remarkably different from what most operators were accustomed. It is still not unusual in this part of the United States to find cars powered by early versions of the 4.6 to be blowing smoke upon acceleration. Fortunately the author has not encountered this on any of the 4.6 liter engines he has owned, yet the issue is real. Beginning in 1996, Ford placed intake manifolds on the 4.6 liter engines constructed of a nylon composite manufactured by DuPont. In the early 2000’s, there was a class action lawsuit brought against Ford due to the failure of these intake manifolds. As mentioned for the Mustang, this power plant was not readily met with enthusiasm by the performance crowd.
Despite the production of this engine currently being in E-Series vans only, these little power plants will continue to power current and future Curbside Classic’s of many varieties for countless years to come.
I still kinda miss that car sometimes, but after nearly five years of ownership I was ready to move up. I’ve never heard of the early engines having problems with the spark plugs breaking off, that is a 3 valve version thing. Only removing the plugs on a cold engine if it has an aluminum head is a long standing practice.
In regards to the oil consumption and the valve guide seals, I have not seen it as a big of an issue as many make it out to be.
If they are charging that much for spark plug replacement in a 3 valve they either do not know what they are doing, or are flat out ripping you off. The spark plug access problem reminds me of the frequent complaints levied against big block Mustangs: Unless you were Plastic Man, getting at the plugs on an FE engine in one of the smaller Fords was dangerously close to being an engine-out job. Was it the Boss 429 that required either the engine to be jacked up to get at the last spark plug, or was it the brake master cylinder had to be removed? 2004 F150 Heritage standard cab, aftermarket flat bed, 90,000 miles, dual exhausts installed, everything else stock in the drive-train.
Personally having owned a pair of early 92 CVs with the mechanically shifted AOD I prefer it to the electronically shifted AOD-E I had in the 93.
I bought a 1991 v-8 Ford CrownVic for my wife, since I didn’t want her driving one of the Plastic Coffin Bubble cars. The first time we had a 4.6 in for a plug change the disaster that they are known for happened to us. We had problems with the ones with the three threads mostly because the techs had not done it before. So Jason do you notice much difference in power between your 92 Vic (190 HP) and 01 (220hp)? My understanding is interchangeability with the engines was a nice by-product of their construction method – such as swapping heads side to side. Centrally located in San Diego, Magic Lube And Auto Repair is your best source for professional and reliable service for your car. Established in 1999, our highly skilled and certified auto mechanics possess many years of on the job experience that drivers in San Diego can turn to. I needed to replace the catalytic converter on my Honda Civic which i had just purchased the day before. I saw a thread - somewhere - where there is a mod to add a button to control the main vent that goes to the outside air. The vacuum plug connector (behind dash) that leads to the HVAC controls has several vacuum lines in it. Whether you own a Honda or a Toyota, one thing all engines have in common is some type of cam drive system.
Though todays timing belts last longer than ever before, the same cannot be said for timing belts in older engines - even if the vehicle manufacturer does not publish a recommended replacement interval.
Regardless of mileage, any timing belt that shows obvious damage such as frayed or exposed cords, damaged teeth, hunks of rubber missing, deep cracks, excessive surface cracking or severe glazing should be replaced without delay! Belt replacement is also recommended anytime the cylinder head has to come off of the engine, or when replacing a water pump that is driven off the timing belt. On interference engines, a timing belt failure is really bad news because there is not enough clearance for the valves to clear the pistons if the belt snaps.
Regular belt replacement is especially important on Acura and Honda engines because almost every one of these engines is an interference design! Convincing a customer to replace a timing belt that has not yet failed takes salesmanship - and education. Most timing chain sets are sold as three-piece kits (chain, crank sprocket and cam sprocket), but some OHC kits also include a chain dampener or tensioner. On many newer engines, spring-loaded automatic tensioners are used to keep the timing belt tight. It is difficult to determine the true condition of the tensioner components with a simple visual inspection because the components are not operating under a load. On older Honda 1.5L engines in the CRX, the cam sprocket says "UP" and there are three different timing marks.
With early Honda single overhead cam engines, a camshaft that has been incorrectly timed and is overadvanced will have higher than normal idle vacuum and the engine will lack high speed power.
If you find a belt with stripped cogs, it indicates that something in the cam drive system has jammed or stuck, overloading the belt and causing it to shear teeth or jump time. When OHC cylinder heads get too hot, they usually swell up in the middle, causing the cam to bend or bind. Misalignment problems in the cam drive also can occur if the cam sprocket is installed backwards, the wrong thickness of washer is used (incorrect end play), a thrust button is forgotten, or the crank sprocket is not positioned properly on its keyway. Finally, turn the engine over by hand several times to make sure the timing marks realign correctly.
Finish the job by installing a sticker indicating when the belt was changed (write down the mileage) and when the next change is due. A more affordable and easier to use way to access the factory service information is via AlldataDIY. The standard aftermarket recommendation for replacing OHC timing belts has traditionally been 60,000 miles - which is still a valid number for most older vehicles. According to Gates Rubber Company's "Timing Belt Replacement Manual," these are the "official" belt replacement recommendations Acura, Honda and Toyota make for their specific engines. Note: On applications where no specific mileage recommendation is given, it does not mean the timing belt will last indefinitely and can be ignored.


Also Note: On Acura and Honda applications with 105,000-mile recommended replacement intervals, this does not include vehicles that are operated in extreme climates (below -20 degrees F or above 110 degrees F). Honda also makes a time recommendation as well as mileage on the newer applications: 105,000 miles or 84 months, or 90,000 miles or 72 months depending on the engine. 3.4L V6 also know as the 3400 engine used in many cars including the Chevy Malibu and Impala, Pontiac Grand Am and Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Alero and several minivan models. Routing of the belt on 2.2L know as the 2200 four cylinder engine used in many chevy, Buick, pontiac and Oldsmobile cars. 4.2L inline six cylinder 4200 belt pictures for Chevy and GMC trucks including Trailblazer and Envoy.
Even with the restrictive factory air filter box and wimpy single exhaust, it felt pretty stout.
Now the first version of the PI (performance improved) head only had about 3 threads for the spark plugs and they are known for blowing out of the head particularly if someone, or the machine at the factory, overtorqued the plugs. The different expansion rates of the metals mean that there is more interference in the threads and you can strip them if you remove them hot.
I’ve had several with lots of miles that did not smoke or use excessive amounts of oil. Ford modified the valve seals starting in ’96 in order to eliminate the premature wear issue. I recall the angst Mustang GT owners had when they learned their 5.0 was to be replaced with this 4.6! I’ve seen junked CVPIs turned into taxis with over 400,000 miles on them that are driven to the yard and junked becuse of some other expensive non-drivetrain issue.
I think it’s that magical combination of off idle torque and the sound that it generates. I think the most amazing part is that the original exhaust lasted 900k miles driving primarily in the rust belt. Any time I get one I always check the odometer or ask the driver, and most of them where I live are ex-CVPI’s or ex-NYC taxis.
Fortunately there was enough head left to tap new threads into the socket: I made sure to put in a stainless-steel sleeve with many more than three threads. Your auto is inspected and tested with professional diagnostic equipment to determine optimum vehicle performance. The owner Karmal carefully inspected the car, and provided detailed suggestions on maintenance and repairs. Valve timing and ignition timing (if it reads off the camshaft) also remain steady because timing belts do not stretch. The fact is, any belt can fail if the reinforcing cords inside the belt become weak and break.
The cords are under tremendous tension, and eventually the combination of constant flexing and heat causes them to weaken.
Belts that still look like new on the outside may be dangerously weak on the inside and on the verge of failure.
In both cases, the belt has to be removed anyway to make the other repairs so there is no extra labor required to replace it. The belt itself may not be that expensive, but the labor to change it is typically about four hours.
A belt failure on an interference engine almost always results in one or more bent valves - or worse. Many motorists may not know timing belts have a limited lifespan and that the vehicle manufacturer lists a recommended replacement interval. These "extra" components play a vital role in supporting the chain and keeping it tight and should be replaced at the same time.
So there is no way to clean, inspect or relubricate the bearings when a timing belt is changed. At the same time, a leaky seal will allow the grease inside to escape, dooming the bearing to rapid failure.
Even so, any pulley bearing that has visible looseness, grease streaks radiating outward from a damaged seal, makes noise or does not turn freely should be replaced before a new belt is installed - otherwise the new belt is doomed to premature failure. Pay particular attention to the location of the timing marks in the service literature (you do have a manual, right? A white mark may be used to indicate Top Dead Center (TDC) and a red mark for ignition timing. The sprocket should be aligned so UP is at the top, but the actual timing mark to use is the one at the 7 o'clock position that lines up with a plastic pointer on the head.
This, in turn, may make the mixture so lean that the O2 sensor ceases to switch, setting a code for a bad O2 sensor. The most likely culprit is the camshaft, which may have seized due to engine overheating or lack of lubrication (low oil level or loss of oil pressure).
In some cases this may break the cam, snap the timing belt or shear the cam drive sprocket off the end of the cam.
Belt length, width, tooth profile and pitch must be the same, and the material must be the same or better. Belts, remember, do not stretch and forcing one to do so will likely damage the cords and cause it to fail. Adjust to the recommended specifications (always refer to the manual because the amount of recommended play can vary depending on the application). But newer belts last longer and may go 90,000 to 100,000 miles before the risk of failure starts to increase. The serpentine belt is used for the power steering, air conditioning compressor, alternator, water pump or supercharger.It should be inspected at regular maintenance intervals.
What exactly did you need help with?How to put the tensioner belt on.Yes, it can be difficult. Once I modified the airbox and added dual exhaust with low-restriction turbo mufflers, I could roast its mushy Michelin touring tires at will. Then if they don’t turn easily at that point add another little bit of carb cleaner and repeat. Tires were wet but I didn’t think it had enough power to do anything other than chirp the tires. They did improve the shifting schedule on the later AOD-E that was renamed the 4R7x(w) and the ones in our 02 GM and 03 Marauder do not annoy me like the one in the 93 did. What struck me though was when an oxygen sensor went bad one time, the Ford dealer tech told my Dad he was lucky the faulty sensor was on THAT bank (could not recall which side it was), for the other bank required removal of the engine, as it was that tight between sensor and firewall. Decent power, decent mileage, and if you followed a reasonable PM program they never broke if used as intended.
Geez; in the old days, medium sized trucks used six cylinders smaller than that, with half the hp. We regularly work on all American and Foreign vehicles like Chevrolet, Ford, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Lexus and more. My first visit was over a year ago, when another mechanic told me my car was beyond repair since it failed a smog test.


The guys acted fast within 10 mins of my arrival, which i was shocked considering the cars already there being worked on. That is why Honda, Toyota and most other vehicle manufacturers usually recommend replacing the timing belt at a specific mileage interval (see below). It is also a very good idea to replace the water pump at the same time if the pump is mounted behind the belt.
The cam and crank sprockets usually do not have to be replaced unless they show unusual wear or damage. Over time, the grease inside breaks down and oxidizes, accelerating bearing wear and increasing the risk of a bearing failure or seizure. As the miles accumulate, though, wear can cause the plate to stick against the engine block, preventing the tensioner from maintaining proper pressure. If you use the red mark instead of the white one, valve timing will be off as much as 18 degrees. There is nothing wrong with the O2 sensor, of course, because the real problem is the mistimed cam.
One set is used to time the intake with the exhaust camshaft when they are mounted in the cylinder head, and the other set indicates the TDC position for both camshafts. Do not substitute a less expensive neoprene belt for one made of HSN or EPDM synthetic rubber. If it were to break, you would loose these accessories depending on engine size and model of vehicle.Click on the pictures below for routing diagram on your particular engine. The 93 that I sold to my buddy is at over 280K and while his is leaking some from the front seal it uses about the same amount of oil as mine.
Taxi drivers usually beat the hell out of their cars (at least in Chicago) and the 4.6 takes it in stride.
Replaced it with a 2001 Merc GranM and ten years later, a UTA student ran a red light, center punched the drivers side door.
For your convenience, we will provide you with a ride to work or back home if it is within 10 miles of our auto repair facility.
His service is beyond expectation.I honest say this is the best auto shop I have been in so far.
Kamal and his colleagues were so welcoming and fixed my problem with a tune up for less than $100. The risk of belt failure goes up sharply once a belt surpasses its recommended replacement interval, which is typically 60,000 miles for belts in older vehicles (those built before 1990 to 1998), and 90,000 to 100,000 miles or more for newer vehicles. You do not want to do this job twice, and most water pumps have about the same lifespan as the belt. Apparently, Toyota engineers were more generous with combustion chamber clearances than Honda engineers. Explaining what it might cost to repair an interference engine with bent valves versus the cost to change the belt now might be all it takes to convince them of the value of preventive maintenance. Like the water pump, the service life of the tensioner pulley bearings is about the same as that of the belt. Also, the hotter the operating environment, the shorter the lifespan of the grease and the bearings. The engine may also experience detonation (spark knock) because of the overadvanced valve timing and lean fuel mixture. Toyota has been recommending 7,500-mile oil change intervals for some of its vehicles - which has lead to oil sludging and other engine problems. Use a quality brand of belt because some generic brands use inferior materials that will not last as long as the OEM belt or a quality aftermarket belt.
The belt needs to be partially on, then use a ratchet on the tensioner, move it as far as you can, then with your other hand hold the belt so it holds the tensioner so you can reposition the ratchet to gain a little more tensioner movement.Thank you.
So even if you do leave a shell or two in the engine it still should not be more than a 3 hour or so job. Free towing to our shop if your transmission repair is completed with Cheap Transmission Repair of San Diego.
They quoted me a great price and did not charge me any extra unexpected fees which is a plus! The location of the tensioner components under the timing belt cover prevents them from receiving much cooling, so they tend to run quite hot. This can be damaging to the head gasket, pistons and rings, and may cause the engine to run hot.
Changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles or every three to six months is still the safest recommendation. The 4R70W is the ultimate evolution of the AOD and it’s later iterations are virtually indestructible. Or it may not even make it to 60,000 miles depending on operating conditions, load and rpm. That is a lot of money to most people, but postponing the recommended maintenance can cost them a lot more!
The 4.6+4R70W is probably one of the toughest drive trains every produced for a car or light truck. I could have gone to another overpriced mechanic, who would have blamed it on the transmission and either charge me a few thousand, or advice me to get rid of my car.
I’m dreading changing the Spark Plugs, but at over 68,000 miles it runs smoothly, and will grab gravel and growl. Knowing my newly purchased vehicle was salvaged Kamal the Owner was kind enough to give me a courtesy oil and transmission fluid check. Came to find out that the oil dip stick in my vehicle had broken off so it was a little difficult to check the oil level.
So with diagnostic, special ordered parts, and labor it cost less then $500 to get my car back to normal.
Kamal asked that i go to the Honda Dealership in lemon grove to replace my dip stick with a new one. If your car is needing work and you want a place that treats you and your car like family go to Magic Lube and Auto Repair. I had no clue where the dealership was so he insisted i wait for him until he locked up so i could follow him there (Keep in mind i just met this guy). So i followed him to the Honda dealership and i was shocked to find out I had NO OIL in my car!! I plan on going back to Magic Lube and Auto Repair today to check for any oil leaks i may possibly have. If he hadn't done a courtesy check and allowed me to follow him to the Honda Dealership who knows how far i would of gotten.



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