Z scale steam engines for sale,atlas ho mp15dc locomotive,transportation in new york city in the 1900s,ho train videos - For Begninners

In most circumstances, one can revive a poorly-running or non-functioning Marklin Z locomotive in under three minutes. In order for an electric locomotive to work, electricity must flow uninterrupted from the tracks into the motor, and the rotation of the motor must be freely transferred to the wheels. Electricity flows from the wheels to the electrical contacts in the chassis, often to a circuit board (circuit board not present on steam engines and 0-6-0 diesels).
The friction and the weight of the locomotive helps turn the rotation of wheels into linear motion.
You'll probably only need to tend to one or two of these areas if you're trying to diagnose a specific problem (see following section).
If you're trying to improve the overall performance or reliability of a specific engine, however, you'll want to examine each of these areas to eliminate anything that could be inhibiting smooth running.
To find out if the problem is the engine or the track, find a standard 9V battery, and while holding the engine in your hands, touch the terminals to the wheels (one terminal on the left wheels and one on the right). Engine doesn't run at all, lights are on, and no sound is heard from the motorall moving parts should be cleaned and oiled. Engine doesn't run, and smoke is seen or a sizzling sound is heard from the engine - placing on tracks stops other engines on same circuitelectrical short: fried motor, foreign object between brushes and commutator, motor contacts are touching. Leading wheels on steam engine (or Crocodile) derail easilyCheck track, and make sure leading wheels are correct distance apart (check gauge). The reason is not due to a problem in the locomotive, but rather that some locomotives (such as steam engines) are more susceptible to this problem than others (such as electric and diesel engines). To make any locomotive less susceptible to dirty track, you can improve the electrical pickup - see Improving Locomotive Power Pickup for details. You'll also, of course, need to keep your track and wheels clean - see Cleaning Z-Scale Track and Cleaning Locomotive Wheels, respectively, for details. If you need to replace the motor brushes, refer to the instruction sheet that accompanies your engine, check a recent Marklin catalog, or refer to this table for part numbers. If your engine repeatedly encounters the same problem on the same portion of track (stopping, derailing, etc.), it's the fault of the track, not the engine.
Otherwise, the problem might be poorly-aligned track, damaged track, a gap in the rails, a build-up of dirt or corrosion, or even a foreign obstruction, such as ballast or a little plastic person.
To get spare parts for your Marklin locomotive, first determine the model number of your engine.
The model number is the 4- or 5-digit number on the box that usually starts with an "8," not the tiny number printed on the side of the locomotive (which is known as the road number, and is only part of the decoration). You'll undoubtedly see your locomotive or one similar on the first page or two; click through to get the model number. Most Marklin locomotives were released in several different liveries (paint jobs); they're mostly identical otherwise. For instance, there have been roughly a dozen different F7s produced over the years (like the 8860 Santa Fe), but they all use the same parts. Other F7s include the 8809 Southern Pacific Daylight, 8819 Alaska, 8832 Union Pacific, 8861 Southern Pacific, 8862 Amtrak, and 8863 Burlington Northern. Starting in the 1990s, and more-so with the move to the five-pole motor in 2000, Marklin started using 5-digit model numbers.
For some models, the fifth digit indicates a five-pole motor, as opposed to the older 3-pole motor. It's usually hard to find information on these units, but in nearly all cases, these are simply special versions of normal-production engines easily found in catalogs.
Lokshop's zscale.de offers a wonderful visual catalog of just about every Marklin every made, sorted by model number.
Tip: Also available is this motor upgrade table, which lists the part numbers for 3-pole motors, 5-pole motors, and respective replacement brushes for nearly all Marklin locomotive models.
Once you have the right part number, contact any authorized Marklin dealer to order the parts.
Alternatively, if you need more than a few parts, it may be quicker (and cheaper) to buy a complete replacement engine on eBay; even if the engine is in bad shape or is nonfunctional, it can be a treasure trove of spare parts! Whether you've inherited a 20-year old engine from your great uncle, acquired a second-hand engine on eBay, or purchased a brand-new engine from your local hobby shop, you'll need to oil it before you run it. The tiny instruction sheet that comes with all Marklin engines gives little more than a few hints on regular maintenance, but it's a good place to start.
Labelle #108 oil (available in most hobby shops) is probably the best oil for these tiny engines. The Labelle bottle and needle applicator are very convenient, as well as resealable; the oil is thin and doesn't harden.
Marklin and Seuthe both make locomotive oil as well, but their applicators are much less convenient, and the high viscosity of their products is more suitable for HO scale engines.
It has been suggested that toothpaste be used as a lubricant, but given that it hardens rapidly, is actually an abrasive, and is a food product that can smell and attract ants, I really wouldn't recommend it. If you use too much, you increase the liklihood of dust and dirt sticking to the oil and getting into the gears.
To help keep dirt from building up in your locomotives, store them vertically (on their wheels) so that the oil will drip down to the wheels, rather than accumulate in the motor or locomotive shell. While Marklin has produced over 200 different Z-scale locomotives in the nearly thirty years Z has been around, there are really only a few basic chassis designs.
Since effective engine cleaning and lubricating involves disassembly, it's easiest to break down this section by chassis type. The first and most common type of locomotive chassis is what is used for nearly all diesel and electric engines. The variations differ slightly in size, features, and number of wheels, but all have two semi-enclosed trucks (bogies), a centrally-mounted motor, a circuit board on top, and a plastic, snap-fit shell.
The kingpins serve two purposes: they connect the trucks to the chassis, allowing the trucks to pivot freely, and they serve as the axle that holds the spur gear, which transfers torque from the worm gear on the motor to the gears in the truck. The first step is to remove one of the kingpins by pushing one end through with one tip of a pair of tweezers.
They're not interchangeable; if inadvertently switched, the locomotive will run in the wrong direction. Hint: if your engine runs backwards (not in the same direction as your other engines), switching the trucks will solve the problem. Using a liberal amount of oil here will improve performance, but may cause the unit to pick up more dirt later on.
Insert the kingpin back into the kingpin hole on the truck (but leave the truck off the chassis). Place the truck on the tracks, and roll it back and forth quickly and repeatedly until all of the wheels and gears are spinning smoothly and quietly.
While the trucks are loose, take this opportunity to remove any foreign matter (dust, dirt, hair, ballast, grime, congealed oil, etc.) you see wrapped around any of the axles and copper contacts.

Turn the chassis upside-down, and put a dab of oil on the worm gears (the spiral-shaped gears in the chassis, above the trucks).
Each of the worm gears are on separate axles, both of which are turned (via small gears) by the motor.
If you can reach them with the needle on the oil bottle, put a dab of oil on these small gears as well.
Usually, there are access holes in which oil can be applied to these gears without taking apart the chassis; the instruction sheet included with your locomotive should point out these access holes. It might still run slowly at first, at least until the oil has been distributed to all the gears and axles. If you still encounter problems and suspect dirt in the engine or poor lubrication (see the diagnosis table, above), it's likely that one truck is the culprit. Try removing only one of the trucks, and, while supporting the engine with your fingers, place it on powered track. If the engine still exhibits the problem, it's likely to be caused by the truck still attached to the chassis; reattach the first truck and remove the second, and try again.
All large Z-scale steam engines have a similar design: a horizontal motor mounted to the rear of the chassis, a single row of drivers, running gear, and a metal body mounted with a single screw. Differences include the number and size of the driving wheels, the number of leading and trailing wheels, and whether or not there's a tender. The copper contacts that touch some or all of wheels are spring-loaded; if you are dumb enough to remove one of those wheelsets (I speak from experience), you'll need to pinch the copper contacts against the chassis with a pair of tweezers in order to get the wheelset back on. If, after removing the screws and belly pan, the trucks fall off, don't worry about them right now. Douse all of the gears and axles with Labelle #108 oil, making sure not to knock anything loose with the needle on the oil bottle. While the belly pan is off, take this opportunity to remove any foreign matter (dust, dirt, hair, ballast, grime, congealed oil, etc.) you see wrapped around any of the axles. It might help to hold the gears down with a screwdriver or second pair of tweezers while you clean (which is where the cradle comes in handy). When you're done, place the belly pan back on the chassis, minding the direction (belly pans usually have a front and back side). If either (or both) of the leading or trailing wheel trucks fell off in step #1, hold the belly pan firmly against the chassis with one hand, and carefully insert them with the other. Only after the belly pan has been reattached, should you try to clean the copper contacts that touch the wheels (otherwise the wheels and gears will pop out).
Remove the grime build-up and any foreign matter with a pair of tweezers, being careful not to damage or bend the contacts. There's usually a small hole in the top of the clear plastic motor mount, just above the worm gear, designed to make lubrication of the upper components easy (it's usually noted on the included instruction sheet). The Labelle needle fits perfectly in the hole; just squeeze a small drop of oil in the hole and you're done (no need to remove the motor). Lastly, place a tiny drop of oil on the rear of the motor, where the motor axle meets the plastic motor frame. If that doesn't do it, your last resort is to stick a Q-tip or toothpick in the motor armature to coax it to turn.
Most of what applies to "Big Steam Engines," above, applies to these, the smallest Marklin locomotives. To remove the shell from a 0-6-0 engine, use a tiny screwdriver to push in the spring-loaded pin between the rear buffers, and then gently lift off the shell (starting with the back).
To remove the shell from a 2-6-0 engine, pinch the cylinders (the green boxes in this photo) with one hand and gently lift off the front of the shell (boiler) with the other. On the plus side, the worm gear on the motor shaft comes in direct contact with the gear on the rear wheelset axle, so oiling is generally pretty easy.
Their tiny size and few number of wheels means that they are extra-susceptible to dirty track. However, they are generally dense and heavy, and can sometimes out-pull locomotives three times their size. If you're noticing that your engine seems to lock-up for no reason, or that it runs better in one direction than the other, this may be what's happening. The problem seems to be caused by a misalignment between the internal gears and external push-rods. You can check if the pushrods are the problem by removing them; gently pull out the tiny pins in the driving wheels with a small pair of plyers to remove them.
If this solves the problem, then you've got to disassemble and then reassemble the internal gearing until everything lines up. If your engine runs backwards (not in the same direction as your other engines), remove the motor frame (the bell-shaped housing that contains the magnets), rotate it 180o, and reattach it. The main frame is like most other electric locomotives, with a centrally-mounted motor, a circuit board on top, and two pivoting trucks. For cleaning and lubricating, however, the "Big Diesels and Electrics" section is applicable. What sets Crocs apart from all others is that the trucks are connected to the main frame electrically with wires instead of copper contacts.
This is important because the most common cause of problems with Crocodiles (both Swiss and German) is that these wires can break or become disconnected from the trucks or circuit board.
This can be difficult, because of the small size, and the six different wires (three per truck) required to pass power to the motor and back to the lights. The photo points out the solder points - just match up the numbers to correctly wire the unit. Note that some points, (3) and (5), have two solder points on the trucks - they're simply connected to each other. Hint: some of the wires are fed under the circuit board and through the opening in the middle.
There's very little clearance under the main shell; you'll have to carefully pack the wires so that the shell fits snugly.
If you can't get the shell to fit cleanly, you may have to move more wires under the circuit board.
The German Crocodile (Marklin 8822, 88221, 88222, 8824), while similar to the Swiss Croc (above), has a chassis design closer to that of standard electric locomotives. The photo shows an 8851 chassis, modified with an FR Upgrade Kit (designed only for the 8851 and 81418). It has a long, pan-shaped chassis with a centrally-mounted motor that drives only the front wheels and the propeller.
Because of its long length and only two axles, it's somewhat prone to derailments where the rails are uneven or there are gaps at the rail joiners; this makes it an especially good track integrity tester. Because the axles are mounted quite loosely, this unit typically has excellent power pickup.

Also, this is probably the fastest engine Marklin has produced for Z-scale - well oiled, it will rip down your track.
The most common problem with this railcar is probably the noise made by the spinning propeller. This can be treated with a little oil on the propeller gear and the two brass bushings that hold the propeller axle. Like an electric locomotive, the motor is mounted centrally and is covered by a circuit board.
However, there are no removable trucks, and the upper frame is attached to the chassis with a tricky snap fit, making cleaning and lubricating is a little more difficult.
And since it only has two axles, power pickup is easily compromised (see Improving Locomotive Power Pickup for more information).
Instead of trying to remove the circuit board and upper frame (which can be a chore), you can actually just remove the wheels by popping out the two plastic inserts from the bottom of the unit with a small screwdriver.
Once the plastic inserts are removed, the wheelsets and a pair of spur gears can be pulled out.
Using a pair of tweezers, remove any gunk from the gears and copper contacts in the chassis. In all the talk of cleaning track, I didn't want to neglect the cleaning of locomotive wheels (drivers). The dirt, grime, oil, and dust that seams to magically coat all your track will also get picked up by the wheels. If that weren't enough, the flow of electricity can help bake the grime on the wheels - the Relco units only make this worse. Even after you clean the track, an engine with dirty wheels will appear to skip down the track, never running smoothly for more than a second. Luckily, this one is really easy to fix, and I've tried two products that do the job (others, listed subsequently, I haven't yet tried). To clean a locomotive, hook the alligator clips to the rail power terminals on your power pack, and turn the throttle all the way up. Gently press the locomotive up against the brushes, keeping the plastic isolator lined up between the left and right sides. Note: the Minitrix 66623, next, is more expensive, but easier to use and does a better job. The Minitrix 66623 wheel cleaner (~$15.00), while similar to the Micro-Trains unit (above), is much longer, a little more expensive, and does away with the wires. Instead, you lay it directly on a section of straight track (it must be slightly modified to fit on Z track) and then place the locomotive on top. Unlike the Micro-Trains cleaner, the brushes are long enough for any Z-scale locomotive, which makes cleaning much quicker and easier.
The biggest problem is that it is designed for N-scale, and therefore must be modified to fit on Z-scale track.
It's an easy process, but it would've been nice if Trix (a subsidiary of Marklin) would've made a slight adjustment to the design to accommodate both gauges. Then, widen the four little rail slots in the shell so that it fits comfortably on a section of straight Z track. When you're done, re-insert the two brushes into the top, and then squeeze in the divider from the bottom. Test-fit the cleaner on the track; you may have to make a few adjustments so that it sits level and the brushes make contact with the rails and, simultaneously, with the wheels of any locomotive placed on top. It's just a pressure fit, so you can move things around with a screw driver (gently) until everything is properly lined up. Although originally designed for N-scale, you'll find the brushes to be perfectly aligned and sized for Z-scale engines. Note: After using either this or the aforementioned Micro-Trains #236 driver brush, your wheels will shine, and your locomotive will run like new. Of the two, the Minitrix cleaner does a better job of cleaning the wheels and does it in less time with less fuss.
The Micro-Trains unit is cheaper, and works with any scale from Z to HO without modification. Tip: After use, any brush-based wheel cleaner will begin to turn black from all the grime it has collected. To clean the cleaner, just use warm water, dishwashing detergent, and an old toothbrush as needed. Two copper contacts power the motor through at least two driving wheels, while the rest of the drivers are cleaned by the red pad; turn the locomotive 180 degrees to complete cleaning. John Cubbin has come up with a very innovative homemade locomotive wheel cleaner, based on alcohol-saturated facial cleansing pads instead of brushes. Rodney's Railroad Tools makes a nifty z-scale wheel cleaner built into a piece of track that can be mounted on your layout. All listings sold via Auction are subject to a 15% Buyer's Premium which will be collected at checkout. If that doesn't help, motor contacts are misaligned or broken, brushes need to be replaced, or motor needs to be replaced. The model has ampere silvern soldered copper boiler and will birth a fully updated boiler certificate before the indicate of sale. Renowned theoretical account Builder Lou Racioppo’s Private Steam railway locomotive assembling for Sale helium currently has process displayed at the Smithsonian Institution.
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