Wiring kato switches,is the subway free,nyc subway map with streets,atlas n scale code 80 flex track - Try Out

If you are not familiar with insulated frogs, read the Newbie Notes, Types of Frogs and What type of frog is best for me?
Here's a situation where you don't need the green wire going to the frog, but you still need the power routing switch as well as everything else that is shown.
While you final goal is a properly wired frog, you will actually be looking for three things. Step 1: Connect your test lead to the frog and touch it to the closed point rail or adjacent stock rail. If you didn't get a short for either step 1 or step 2, that means you have a problem with your connection to your frog.
Once you get everything right, remove your clip leads from your power routing switch or Tortoise and make the connections permanent. Being able to perform the test sequence above is second in importance only to the quarter test. Here is how to wire a turnout for wrong-way entry short protection based on a Peco Electrofrog. You can reverse the direction of the turnout points simply by reversing the red and black leads to the remote control solenoid. When I started my layout I decided to use the Kato turnout control switches as part of a package product and they work well but they are highly visible and relatively large to install around the layout. As many do I started looking around for an alternative when I built the new control panels. Note: the X pattern wires cannot touch each other as a short will occur in your power supply so they must be insulated wire. Note: after these are installed and if the turnout operates in the incorrect direction you can either rotate the switch upside down or re-solder the incoming power leads opposite the way you have them to correct this issue. The diagram below shows how a standard turnout with rails soldered to PC Board ties and a manual ground throw is wired. Both the Kato and Atlas turnouts only need a pulse or momentary burst of electricity to make them work.. Look, I apologise in advance for the crude drawings, but I have no electrical drawing software to use.. As you will see from the diagrams below, whilst both turnouts can be operated by a pushbutton switch, and a toggle switch, how they are wired is completely different..

On the Kato drawing I added an additional wiring diagram to better show the physical connections as they would be made on the back of the DPDT toggle switch.. If you want to use bi-coloured LEDs instead of the single coloured ones, then there is no reason why you could not just substitute them for the single coloured LEDs in the Kato turnout drawing I have posted.. The only thing that you will need to do is to wire one LED the opposite way to the other, so one is green whilst the other is red.. No, it doesnt matter if you put the resistor on the Anode or Cathode of the LED, just as long as you use one.. The only reason I put the resistor on the cathode in the Kato drawing, is because I put a single resistor on the cathode of the LEDs in nthe Atlas Drawing.. In these cases, you not only don't need the green wire, but you can also do away with the switch that performs the power routing. It is challenging to clip test leads onto a Tortoise connector — they are too close together.
Make sure you make good notes of which terminal the clip leads were attached to so that you can make your permanent connections correctly. Whenever there is a problem with a power routed frog, I attach a clip lead to a frog and run through these four steps. Follow the instructions on checking your frog polarity in the section on that topic using W3.
Test your wiring by running a locomotive through the turnout and make sure it runs through. If your turnout is in a difficult location and hard to mount a frog polarity switch under the turnout.
You are using a Peco or similar turnout that has a spring to lock the points to the stock rails.
What we first must know is that the Kato turnout control switches are not twin coil but rather DC polarity controlled. It first requires that you solder a wire from each corner to the opposite corners in an X pattern which serves to reverse the polarity when the switch is thrown in either direction. And the final step is to solder your incoming power to either end of the switch attaching them to your X pattern. But it seems to me that a simple relay would be able to activate the switch power in either switch location (the switch determines which LED comes on (red or green) couldn't a relay send the momentary power to the turnout regardless of which way the LED switch is turned?

In the example below, if you were using an insulated frog, you would eliminate the green wire as well as the power routing switch. If you are not using a DCC friendly switch, when I say touch the point rail below, touch the adjacent stock rail instead. You may find soldering wires on the connector and then clipping to these wires will make things a little easier. After following the above steps, getting to this step should just be a confirmation that you got it right. Just wire everything in the diagram below the turnout as shown and follow the instructions for the particular turnout.
With a turnout like this, you need no ground throw or other mechanism, but you will still need something to power route the frog. This means that instead of two push buttons one to activate a coil on one side and another push button to activate a coil on the other side to pull the switch machine back one has to reverse the DC polarity of the coil to push and pull the turnout control.
The switches also have a flattened throw handle which makes them easy to distinguish between the turnout controls and the block switches which have round handles on my panel. On my last photo you will notice that I have put the Kato turnout control wire with a plug on my two center positions so the turnout could just be plugged into the switch, this is not necessary but it was just to show that it could be done if you choose. Below is how my finished control panel looks and if you're interested in how I made this control panel Fifer hobby supply has a how-to video available here. If you do not and you have followed my directions so far, then you have a bad connection to your power routing switch or Tortoise.
This requires a double pole double throw momentary on off on switch and in this how-to I will show you how to wire one of those up and where to get them. If you follow my instructions carefully, your turnout with wrong-way entry short protection should be fine the first time. Gap locations are shown on the Fast Tracks printable tie templates for each scale and size of turnout.
Now do the opposite for the second LED (resister connected wire to the White and non-resistor connected wire to the Black wire).

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