Tyco trains parts,nyc subway train 2,ho model railroad building kits,ho 2-6-0 steam locomotive - Easy Way

Hey Rail Burn, welcome to the group!If I may suggest, you could find either parts, a parts loco, or even a working loco to get your parts from.
Usually the cheapest way to fix these is to replace them, and your only choice there is used motors, as there are no new replacements for these. This amount includes seller specified US shipping charges as well as applicable international shipping, handling, and other fees. Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's handling time, origin ZIP Code, destination ZIP Code and time of acceptance and will depend on shipping service selected and receipt of cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. No returns or exchanges, but item is covered by the eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in a new window or tab. This item will be shipped through the Global Shipping Program and includes international tracking. Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab.
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Your bid is the same as or more than the Buy It Now price.You can save time and money by buying it now. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. Found a neat Tyco Railmaster set today.The box has been opened but doesn't look like it was ever used. In the real world, the Center Flow hopper was a true breakthrough in railcar design, finding instant favor among railroads and shippers alike, and quickly offered by many hobby manufacturers including Athearn, AHM and Bachmann (sharing the same tooling), and Tyco. Athearn’s famous model was the first in HO scale and it seems the other manufacturers rushed to follow suit. Construction basics do mimic the Athearn design, with separately-applied end plates that fit inside end cages molded as part of the body, secured by inserting the two small nubs on the plates into the matching notches in top of the hopper body ends. Tyco adds a beveled snap lug on each end of the hopper base, which snaps very securely into the end cage. Incidentally, the bays are equipped with pneumatic discharge tubes, which typically called for round hatches on cars so optioned; oval hatches usually went with sliding-gate bays.
The most significant difference in manufacturing is the roof panels themselves, hatches aside.
But this was still the most complex car in Tyco’s lineup – by sheer number of parts and complexity of assembly. Assembly cost aside, Tyco did pull out all the stops on decoration, by making this the most intricately-decorated series of cars they ever offered! Today IHC owns the Tyco center flow tooling and has released a few models, which are not seen too frequently. Tyco’s centerflow was first seen hidden in the 1972 catalog – a group of two cars sharing photo space with others, with nary as much as a “new!” to introduce them. The first car in the series is rather plain yet still somewhat attractive, and easily found.
The Domino car was cataloged for only one year, perhaps because it seems to suffer from an apparent defect in the paint. Looking closely at this car makes one thankful that Tyco never entered the educational toy business. Arguably the most striking car in the series, there is positively no missing this car on a layout. In 1978, Tyco evicted the maid from the centerflow line and sent her to clean the 50’ boxcar instead.
As an uncataloged release, the Alcan car was only recently discovered and is obviously a true rarity among Tyco offerings, likely produced for a promotional set of some sort.
The catalog # is not proven but assumed within reason – it most certainly can be no lower than “G”, and no other Tyco center flows are known at this point in time. Like the Alcan car before it, the Pfizer centerflow appears to be another limited-production promotional offering and another extremely rare one.
As with all Tyco releases, if you suffer what I affectionately will call COCD (“Collector’s OCD”), the hunt never ends just because you got one of each catalog number. Compare the top to the bottom and note the same omission of the ACF Chicago logo, and the reduction of sill data from three lines to two. After further research, I’ve determined that this pattern of variations exists for EACH car in the series (with the possible exception of Kelloggs) – there’s one with the “ACF Chicago Plant” logo and three lines of sill data; and one without the “ACF Chicago Plant” logo and only two lines of sill data (the Old Dutch seems to be the only one with a coinciding, major revision in graphics).
As usual, assigning firm values to any one car is an exercise in futility – Specific prices are volatile: subject to local supply, local demand, seller particulars, buyer whimsy, auction hits, and phases of the moon.
That said, it’s helpful to know where some cars generally align with each other, as some are definitely scarcer than others.
My listings are in general order and neighbors may “trade places” from time to time, but you can bet the bottom is rarer than the top. The Planters car was the similar 54' PS Covered Hopper; I'd planned to do a series on those cars at some point.
Well I'm back, and I couldn't find it as it must have gotten moved as its not where I remember putting it!


SpiderjI didn't catch the typo, no harm no foul.There's the NYC 6536 GP20 at home after it's been properly dusted. You're not alone: Tyco's reputation was irreparably destroyed by the finicky locos they sold from the mid-70's onward. In the mid-1970's Tyco began using a new motor; originally exclusive to the Alco 430 and 630, it was gradually phased into the entire line (including steam locomotives) by the late 70's. Despite these faults, the reality is that "millions" were made and it's likely that millions ran admirable service lives, even through today. The following procedures can be used in any Tyco “PowerTorque” diesel locomotive manufactured from 1974 through the early 1990’s.
If you're new to model trains, please review this entire Repair Guide before performing any work.
Also note: I have made every effort to illustrate, simplify, and provide caution as much as possible, but make no warranty to the usefulness or suitability of this PowerTorque Service and Rebuilding Guide - use it at your own risk. Labelle #108 or "sewing machine" (plastic compatible) oil - DO NOT use 3-N-1 or "household" oil as it is too thick! The rear truck is connected via wire to the motor as shown: note the two poles on the motor, identified by pair of brass terminal plates. Both the motor and pickup trucks are installed into black cradles which snap into the body shell. On models marked “easy” it's, um, easy to remove the cradle and truck block as one assembly. Once the rear truck is free, unscrew the attached electric pickup feed wire, put the screw back in the truck for safekeeping and set the truck aside. With the rear truck out of the way, you now have room to dig in and spread the sides of the shell apart to remove the fuel tank without breaking anything. Generally, there's just enough slack in the clip wire to carefully set the truck down outside and next to the shell. Now with the motor truck loose and all wire tethers to the shell disconnected, you can set the shell aside.
First, remove any obvious debris: Hair, carpet fibers, chunks of old grease, white powdery zinc rot, metal shavings, etc - this stuff obviously shouldn't be there, and might be 90% of the problem in the first place! Adjust the speed on the transformer to test the full range: a good motor spins up quickly and responds smoothly. If it's smooth, silly-fast, and responsive, you're ready to reassemble and enjoy your loco - skip to the Gear Reassembly section!
If it's slow, buzzy, or dead, you've got more work to do - continue to Armature Service below, or consider making a dummy. When everything is cleaned and the armature spins smoothly, you're ready to put it all back together! Note: if you did not need to service the armature, skip to the Gears and Wheels subsection below.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the springs are too long and prevent the brushes from resting within the holes, skip Method A and use Method B below. Place a tiny, needlepoint drop of Labelle or sewing machine oil behind the pinion, on the bearing.
Before installing the wheelsets, remove any surface rust or burrs from the metal wheels and axles, as those imperfections harm electrical pickup. Install the wheelsets (remember that on 4-wheel trucks the plastic idler axle goes in the middle).
Insert the completed motor truck assembly into the shell and snap it into place (make sure not to snag or pinch any wires); make sure it swivels freely.
Thread the rear cradle over the pickup wire, then reattach the pickup wire to the rear truck, snap the cradle on, and install the rear truck into the shell. Like all things Tyco, there were several versions of the PT drive made during its 15+ year production run. Mechanically speaking, the pinion gear is brass; I own over 100 PT locomotives built from 1974 through at least 1988, and the only brass pinions are on the MarkI PTs.
The pickup truck is a unique housing that resembles an empty motor truck, but in fact is a unique piece. Tyco quickly revised their "years of development" into this version, which makes a few improvements: The armature is the same, but the gears are thicker, tougher stuff. The truck caps change to the common style, with 3 self-tapping screws and integrated coupler boxes. Tyco also simplifies the headlight mounting on some diesels by attaching it directly to the block. The armature cover once again sees big changes, with enlarged and reinforced ventilation holes. The Mark IV PT does not entail any huge changes, but Tyco does attempt to idiot-proof it by now telling you where to put the oil. The PT drive was used in certain steam engines, most infamously in the tenders attached to the larger 2-8-0 Consolidation and near-identical 0-8-0 locos.
There were many odd, inexplicable, inconsistent, and ongoing modifications to the PT over the years. 1) Axle thicknesses changed (became smaller) on later production - presumably sometime in the late 70's to early 80's. Great pictures and more detail than mine - i mainly hit the basics in my video on power torque motors.


Eh, I wasn't trying to compete or anything, Brian :) But there's a lot of nuances to these that are worth noting - I tried to cover them all. I just want to say thanks for the info, I bought a Tyco 2-8-0 from eBay and during my testing the motor melted. You're very welcome, and thanks for letting me know it was helpful - that was the goal after all! Thanks to your site and instructions, it turns out the pinion bearing was spinning on the armature shaft (it had become loose). Some people have been grinding the armature area out and installing can motors but that is advanced work. Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location. You have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab.
Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. Notice that the box art shows the elusive, if ever made and distributed, 1435 VGN loco and it is pictured as the Tyco 430 on the box and not the Mehano that is in the box. However, looking at their current offerings, many of their non-Proto products appear to have not changed a bit since the 1970s or 1980s. It depends on the turn-out."I love your catenary!"Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
I guess the red warbonnet sells better even though the red was usually the color for passenger service. Missing the rear coupler but still pretty rare with nice crisp zebra stripes on the pilots. Following this guide in order can prevent the need to solder, however it’s virtually inevitable that excessive or careless handling - not to mention dubious OEM assembly quality - will eventually require something to be resoldered! If the armature falls out, then the magnets are too weak and the motor is essentially junk. These are easily spotted from underneath, as the truck caps are held in place with a single slot-head screw.
Because one side is hollowed out, the other side has more mass and as a result the truck could tend to lean on unlevel track. Notice the reinforcing ring on the reduction gear: this feature is not always present on later PT runs, but is common. A cast ridge is added around the reduction gear; the exact purpose is unknown but it may serve to keep fatal doses oil and grease from slinging into the newly enlarged (again) vent holes.
I can see where the right side tender wheels pick up the (-) side or the track, but I'm stumped on where the (+) side picks up power. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable.
In fact, look at some of their current train set offerings:Don't be fooled by the stock photo, but this train set uses HORN-HOOK COUPLERS, and if you replace the oval of Power-Loc track with your usual Code-100 steel (or even *ick* brass) track, you'll have a Life-Like train set from the 1980s!It's like Life-Like's train sets are like the spiritual successor of Tyco's train sets. When you're trying to introduce someone to model trains (especially a kid) you want things as simple and durable as possible.
The one at auction looked like a good example but had 6536 on the cab instead of Tycos usual 5628.
The screw is actually unnecessary since there are beveled tabs at the ends of the truck sideframe cap, which securely snap in place on the housing. While this may yet be possible on the MarkI (they are scarce enough that I haven't yet happened to break one), it "feels" tougher.
Finally, a note about "oil" is embossed, but the novice may not be sure of where exactly it is supposed to go, as the embossing is some distance from the bearing. The MkII shown without a pinion gear actually has a longer armature shaft that serves no purpose.
I have it torn apart and there's two wires that come from the tender and attach to two copper strips underneath the boiler, but those appear to just be for headlamp power. I had a another tyco pt diesel locomotive(runs very well)i was not using so i performed a little surgery based on your info and know my steamer runs very well. There is a shot of the 1435 in the Tyco Collectors resource site.Sorry that the engineers side short handrail is damaged.What is the number on the small Alco sticker on the left?
After studying the photos as best I could it seemed that this was the way it was produced by Mantua Tyco and after some research it may have been done around 1962-'64.6536 is a number used on the early CN F9s from the same time period though the CN F9 T224K was produced a year earlier according to the '61 catalog.
Any performance difference is negligible, however note the smaller axle bores on the hollow version - you cannot use earlier (thicker) axles on these units. The same white plastic used on that last reduction gear, was used for some MkIV armature covers.
The two pictures show that the numerals look to be of the same font.The T228D NYC GP20 first appears listed in the 1962 catalog but doesn't state the number. Their blogs really give you the exact detail (literally & figuratively) of the work that goes into each piece being manufactured. They've had contests which includes finding and identifying "THE CONTAINER" of which the first "Canadian" offerings were in.Where do you go when you buy model trains?



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