Scenic ridge layout kato,removing model train decals,kato bnsf 6752 - You Shoud Know

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When I started the original thread in the N scale section, I was seeking information about the layout.
Didn't get much done due to having to move everything out of the train room in order to rip up old carpet.
Despite my erstwhile rules banning such activities, I did decide to go ahead and scratchbuild this house.
Of course, nothing is ever as simple as it seems around here, and so I did run into some window problems right from the get-go.
Namely, I couldn't really find any that totally matched the windows in that remodeled "faux-brick" section.
I added what roof detailing I could actually see from my west-side pictures (vents, chimney and satellite dish).
And although I'm sure there's probably more up there, that seemed like plenty enough for my purposes. Boy, ya gotta love The Rock and all of the bizarro motive power they rostered over the years.
When you're ordering your GP9 shell from Atlas, be sure to order an appropriate triple horn as well as a rear numberboard insert.
Miniatures By Eric makes cast metal "spark arrestor" details that are a good match for the ones on the prototype.
Of The Rock's five RS-2M's (450-454), I decided I liked 451 the best (mainly because of the in-line "Rock Island" lettering). For paint I used Floquil "Railbox Yellow" and Floquil "Tuscan" (mixed with just a smidge of Floquil "Boxcar Red").
My masking and painting turned out pretty good (for a change), but I decided to grunge things up with a little Bragdon black anyway. Funny thing about these beasts - even after the rebuild they were still run "long hood front" (just like when they were RS-2's). After Googling around a bit, I found a nicely informative writeup on the issue posted to the Trainboard forum (written by the inestimable John Sing). For now I was able to solve my recent "slow down" woes by simply adding an additional set of feeders to each of the main loops (up north of Hope).
Once I started examining my somewhat limited pictures of the prototype garage it looked like it was going to be a bit more complex than I'd originally thought.
I did use my handy-dandy scan of the Atlas shingles for the roof (retinted to match the brown of the prototype). As for all of that wild and wooly detailing, I did try my best to replicate just about every bit of it. I used tiny plastic balls for the garden demarkation (actually painted bowling balls on the prototype).
One of them sits on an N scale patio chair (just with the back removed) and the other one is suspended in a brass wire hanger. So, funny story about the church - after I'd painted it, I left it sitting on my workbench to dry (still in the alligator clip that I'd used to hold it).
I turned my workshop upside-down looking for that little bastard and it was nowhere to be found. Said discovery basically rendered my original review useless, so I had to start shopping around for a new set to review.


My first task was to figure out what shenanigans POG ("previous owner guy") had gotten up to that had lead the "A" unit to stop running. Fixing the short-circuiting problems (my most hated Kumata "feature") was also surprisingly simple. OK, Kumata's shell detailing doesn't quite work for Rock Island's E3 #625 (only one headlight for starters).
Well, no doubt about it, this beast has been the elephant in the room ever since I made my fateful decision to model Hope.
Next up I need to build the six smallish "surge style" bins in the center area, and here's where things start to get complicated.
As for how to proceed, well, there are apparently any number of different ways to go about this (especially amongst the "high end" guys).
One slight problem, though - I think I may have overdone it with the mold release when I prepped my meta-mold for the rubber (damned lack of instructions). I made a number of new molds (experimenting around with various different ways of applying the MRA).
Smooth-On "Universal Mold Release" (something that would have saved me a great deal of time had my LHS actually had some on hand in the first place). It shoots out a diffuse aerosol spray (think insect fogger) that's exactly what one needs for making molds. Anyway, after spending a day+ dicking around getting the aluminum glued down, I finally got the point where I could CA on some ribs (Evergreen "Channel" #261).
I've always been a big fan of Athearn's uber cool articulated steamers (Big Boy and Challenger). Well, as luck would have it, it turns out that one of the UP's excursion trains (pulled by Challenger #3985) did actually pass through Hope back in June of 2002.
Two COLA sets should provide me with most of what I need (two storage-mails, two baggage-dorms, four coaches and two dome-coaches). As for the fifth coach, I think I'll probably just go with one of the other manufacturers (Walthers, Intermountain or Rapido). Pretty impressive looking so far, although admittedly there wasn't a whole lot of modeling involved on my part (IE, Kato gets most of the credit).
As for the "Art Lockman" decals, I whipped those up in a Word document and printed them out on decal paper using my laser printer.
I did expend a little bit of actual modeling effort on the Art Lockman and Howard Fogg cars (adding a window to the former and some vent grills to the latter). The window frame came from the Tichy Train Group "Utility Windows" assortment and the grills came from an old Kato E8 shell I had laying around. As for the North Platte car, I decided to just take the coward's way out on that one (going with a prepainted Kato UP business car as a foobie stand-in). I swapped out the 3-axle trucks on the Council Bluffs car in favor of 2-axle trucks (as per the prototype). First off, the holes in the 61-RDOs are a bit too tight for the old bolster mounts, so those need to be filed out some. Putty (back on the CRI&P baggage-express cars), I still didn't quite get the results I would have preferred. And on that front, there's a guy over on Trainboard who (with much encouragement from yours truly) has been working on a Shapeways model of a UP water tender. Now, Bachmann's wood-sided "old-timer" passenger cars are strictly "trainset crap" if you ask me.
One thing I couldn't abide was how ridiculously high the cars ride (relative to the trucks).
As threatened, I went ahead and drafted my Athearn Overland cars into the C&NW (hey, anything to avoid working on those damned bins). Anyway, I didn't like my chances of actually tracking down one of those sets, so I decided to just press on with my project. For the actual decals, I was able to use the silver numbers from the Microscale "Chicago & North Western Cab Diesels" set. So, long story short, I hacked off all of my previous castings and replaced them with new ones. As you can see, these models represent UP heritage fleet water tenders in their current "post rebuild" state.
I'm not sure what the deal was there, but from what I've read the quality of Shapeways models does tend to vary from one to the next.
Anyway, having basically wrecked my first pair, I decided to go ahead and order up two more (hey, I'm stubborn). And unfortunately, I couldn't really conceal it with paint (not without losing all of the fine detail, anyway).
As pictured below, the flags on "Jim Adams" are not painted directly on the sides of the tender. In addition to the placards, the kits also come with toolbox details (for the top) and ladder and headlight details (for the ends). Unfortunately, what they don't come with are handrails for the top (presumably because something like that would be impossible to render in FUD).
When it came time to apply the decals, I wasn't really sure what Microscale decal set might work best for the large "UNION PACIFIC" lettering.
The streamlined version of the Minnesota 400 made its debut in 1942 (still pulled by streamlined Pacifics).


Mankato, the parlor was replaced by a Pullman sleeping car (making the Dakota the only 400 train to offer sleeping accommodations). Consists on the Dakota 400 changed frequently over the years (with various cars and services being added and subtracted). In 1955, dining car service was extended all the way to Mankato (AC&F cars released from City-train service). My original plan for the motive power was to go with a pair of BLI E7's (released with DCC & Sound a few years back). POP come from the E7 - at which point actual smoke started pouring out of its exhaust stack. And if I'm feeling really crazy, I could even use my custom-painted Erie-Built "B" unit in lieu of one of the A's. Starting in 1958, streamlined RPO-Express cars were often used in lieu of the heavyweights.
Kato didn't go so far as to number or name any of the cars in their C&NW sets, so I went ahead and added "8225" decals to mine. As you can see, it's a very pretty and finely detailed model (and leave us not forget the interior lighting). Now, I've never actually seen a picture of a Dakota 400 that included a baggage-express car. The dining car is a piece of cake if you were lucky enough to pick up Kato smoothside set #106-5012 "way back when". I just used one of my IM coaches as a template and arranged the doodads underneath my car in a similar fashion.
I guess it's kinda nice that somebody actually makes the exact sort of C&NW TLC car that I needed for my train. On the plus side, gluing together the floor, sides, ends and skirting first (and then the roof last) did actually work out quite well. Bob Miano does N Scale product reviews and photography for the NMRA Bulletin, and received a huge carton with Woodland Scenics' brand new Scenic Ridge layout-in-a-box. All of our modeling materials are evaluated by a Board Certified Toxicologist to ensure they meet the standards for art materials set out by ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) International, if applicable. Designed to work together, the layout, scenery and building kits can also be used separately. Please allow up to 72 hours for a reply, but we are generally faster, particularly during business hours.
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Once you've accomplished all that, glue the GP9 hood to the RS-2 cab and you're ready to roll.
I made the flower pots using tiny pieces of tubular styrene with some Bush rose tops glued to the top. Fortunately for me, this issue had already been addressed by POG and his Kato motors (hey, thank goodness for small favors).
And I started thinking, hey why not just slap on some Rock Island paint and hang on to them? Unlike the other bin kits I've built, you don't construct this one "one horizontal ring at a time".
No, it's not anything that I'll be losing any sleep over, but I'll bet it drives a lot of other people crazy. Now to see if I can't mix up some paint to match Kato's UP yellow and gray (shyeah, right).
Now I just need a couple of water tenders and my excursion train will be ready to roll through Hope. I also got rid of the truck-mounted Rapidos and screwed some MT couplers to the chasses instead.
But since I was going to be doing these one stinking digit at a time, I decided that I liked Athearn's way best.
Once painted and decaled, I finished things off by sticking on a couple of Micro-Trains brakewheels and some Micro-Trains 1015 couplers. And although no RTR models of said cars are currently available, Des Plaines Hobbies does make a kit version of #7502 (DPN-1500). I'm also told that JnJ Trains did actually sell brass car sides for a C&NW RPO at one time or another. Because if they had, they would've discovered the same thing that I did - namely, that the trucks can't pivot!
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Category: thomas the train table set up | 23.09.2015


Comments to “Scenic ridge layout kato”

  1. 050_475_55_05:
    Had moved into a new property.
  2. ARAGON:
    Headlight and mistaken for one another unless trains.
  3. RAFO:
    Good sturdy table that is proper at kids.