Old lego train sets,n scale model train sets,nce dcc system - How to DIY

All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998 - 2016 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited. Luckly the attic is a good size and have been gradually been converting it by adding floor, power and lighting, but ran out of space just for the 12V! The 9v sometimes get laid out in the sitting room, but even then its still tight. It doesn't matter what train I have running, but I can control all the points from one central location. I have some of the old 4.5V battery trains, some of the newer remote control trains, but run them all on the 12V rail system. Being a 9V fan and user, I am hesitating a bit on starting a new system, but a few Bricklink orders may change that, we'll see where this goes. 12v was the best era for LEGO trains,for me,but I don't have the time and the money to get all the rail material I need.
And everybody here know why that was the best,wonderful train models(with lights),wire control of everything in the layout,wonderful crane and other railway material and don't forget in every railway station you can have light.

I like the new pf train because you can run four train in a normal layout,but we have to find a solution for switch and railway crossroad. I'm still a 12volt user too, and still collecting my set up with help from places like bricklink. But 12v really does have a sense of magic for me- I remember the sheer quality of the engineering- even the cardboard boxes were well made! 9v seems to have been a little bit of a step backwards in regard to playability. 12v though- back in the day this system was far and above anything else in the toyshop in terms of desirability and quality as far as I was concerned. If you have a relatively small loop, and if you have a bad connection in one spot, then the electricity can simply go around the other way, and the train runs fine. I think it was the best system out, especially the remote points, signals,de-couplers and of course the automated level crossing.
What I did, before the floor went down, I put a multi-core cable terminating at various points to terminal blocks - labeled.
I didn't have enough 12v to motorise more than a small section of temporary layout so I pretty much resorted to building push trains.

And from what I can tell from forum posts, TLG don't appear to have made it particularly easy to motorise 9v and later points, which seems a shame.
Raising the layout on a table doe make sense, I reckon I have about 80 ft (25 mtrs) of wiring to run my layout, but most of it is invisible. I only had one motor and transformer also- my points were 4.5 volts and I had none of the other accessories. My fantasy Lego train layout (to go in my fantasy Lego house!) would probably be a hybrid 9v-PF DCC system- assuming its possible to kit-bash some kind of pickup system. I mananged to persuade my wife to give me space in the spare room last time we moved rather than use the loft, and although it is smaller that I would have had up there, it's warmer and easier to get at.

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