O scale craftsman structure kits,large scale model trains,ho scale model trains for sale on ebay,sculptamold model railroad - Review

This page provides a directory of model railroad manufacturers producing freelanced and prototypical craftsman structure kits, building kits, detail parts, and accessories in G, HO, N, O, S, and Z scale. Long Valley Backwoods - German manufacturer of O and F scale craftsman kits, mainly West Side Lumber Co.
You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's handling time, origin ZIP Code, destination ZIP Code and time of acceptance and will depend on shipping service selected and receipt of cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. International Shipping - items may be subject to customs processing depending on the item's declared value.
Your country's customs office can offer more details, or visit eBay's page on international trade. By clicking Confirm bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. By clicking Confirm bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. Getting in the right frame of mind is the most important part of completing one of these kits. It does not matter whether you choose an old kit that has been tucked away in the closet for years or buy a new kit that is currently in production, the basic steps will still be the same. For our project we have chosen a model of the Lindsey Brothers 34’ box car currently available from LaBelle Woodworking. Experience has shown that the first stage in building a rolling stock model should be the laying out of and assembling the under frame.
When constructing a rolling stock model or a lineside structure, inevitably we are constructing a box to which we will gradually add details to. Most craftsman kits require the builder to build up the side sheeting from several pieces butt glued together. With the paint completely dry, trucks, stirrup steps, a stained roof walk and couplers are added to the model. Applying decals is considered by some a dying art form, however, be assured it is alive and well, and with the advent of computer-generated artwork, making a strong comeback.
Micro-Set – Also a Microscale product, Micro-Set is a softening solution that when applied to a positioned decal softens the decal film and allows the transfer to conform to the surface. Since scribed siding has deep grooves machined into it and the provided decals are fresh, Solvaset is used predominately on the box car model to help the decals conform to the undulating surfaces. Begin the decaling process by cutting each of the decals for a side trimming as closely to the printing as possible with a sharp pair of scissors.
Dip the decals in water and allow to stand for about a minute or two so that the glue on the back of the film completely releases. When you return to the model you will notice a number of trapped air bubbles under the decal. Using a brand new, sharp single edged razor blade carefully slice through the decal film where it has not completely settled into the wood scribing. The last step of building the model is applying a final clear coat over the entire project. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. Basically, they can be viewed as a scratch-built model where all of the parts and instructions are provided in one convenient box. Start with a basic kit and progress to more complicated models as your comfort level increases.
For those looking to get started, LaBelle Woodworking or Ye Old Huff n’ Puff offer some nice wood kits in both O scale and HO scale.


While at first glace the model would appear to be a rather common prototype, it has several unique features. This is particularly the case if the model has truss rods that will need to be secured inside the car body. At this stage the end blocks are glued to the under frame and the roof stock is then assembled on top of the end blocks. Whether you use spray cans, hand brush or air brush a model you can get good results if you take your time and use some patience. This is also a good time to check all the mechanical features such as coupler heights, truck swing, etc.
Like every other step in this project, success with decals is a matter of taking your time and being patient. Microsol lets the water that the decals are soaked in better penetrate the ashesive on the decal. Best used on older decals with heavier film stock, it can be used with newer decals if used sparingly.
Micro-Sol should be brushed onto the decal as well as on the surface of the model that will be decaled.
Try to remove as many air bubbles as possible by brushing over the surface of the decal with a soft brush dipped in Micro-Set.
Once all the decals have settled down to your satisfaction and have had a chance to dry, use a cotton swab with a little window cleaner to remove any decal glue residue from the model.
For freight cars you will probably want to spray the entire car with a flat lacquer such as Testors’ Dullcote. Twelve styles of gambrel and gable roof dairy barns featuring authentic details and Northeastern Scale windows and doors.
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable.
Even experienced model builders will turn tail at the sight of the seemingly hundreds of mysterious unidentifiable splinters of wood.
Once a couple of these models have been completed, the builder will have acquired all the tools and skills needed to take the plunge into scratchbuilding, super detailing and other advanced modeling activities. Firstly, the model represents a composite under frame car that has both truss rods and a steel center beam.
Make sure that you understand this provided document, it will help you to avoid any missteps later. Measure from your plans and lay out the truck bolsters, queen post members and any other structural under frame pieces.
Check the fit and size of these parts carefully since many times the pieces may be either under or over size. However, over time these pieced-together sides have a tendency to separate leaving wide gaps in the finished model. When all of the wood work has been finished, spray the entire model with another coat of sanding sealer. Also, you don’t necessarily need to use fancy model paints, all you really need is good quality flat paint.
It also helps to brush a little Micro-Sol onto the surface of the model where the decal will be applied. Use a cotton bud to remove any excess water from the car side once the decal is in position. Also the decal may not have completely conformed to the car’s side causing a condition known as silvering. To replicate the well maintained finish on passenger cars one may want to use a semi-gloss or satin finish such as Testors Model Master Semi-Gloss spray. They also provide a time-capsule look back into model construction practices from a different era.


No matter what level of success is achieved, these kits are solid skill builders for any model railroader. Not only will you make certain that all the parts are there, you will also get familiar with the parts and when they will be needed.
As work proceeds the locations will need to be laid out for the various applied detail parts.
In preparation for decaling the entire car body is sprayed with two coats of Testors Glosscote clear lacquer. By only applying the decals in this way you will minimize to chances of the decals sliding around and setting crooked. Poor decaling with silvering can ruin the overall appearance of an otherwise nicely built model. This process may have to be repeated several more times until the decal fully conforms to the surface of the model. Some times decals will appear to be dry when some residual moisture is still trapped underneath their film. Gloss and semi-gloss finishes can be applied as one wishes, for example by spraying the roofs and under frames with a flat finish and the ends and side with a semi-gloss finish. Probably their most important attribute is that wood is easy to modify to represent any number of variations on a theme. This is easily done by laying out the pieces and spraying with a lacquer-based sanding sealer available at most hardware stores. It is a lot easier to take extra time and care at this point than it would be later trying to patch a mistake. Sand the brass wire with fine (400 or 600 grit) sand paper before installing these parts; this will allow paint to adhere better.
These kits were not designed to be built in just a few hours, but rather over several days a few hours at a time. Most of the smaller strip wood will have one or both ends marked with colored paint to help with their identification.
However, if you get all of the necessary tools and adhesives together before you start it will save time and searching later. This structural reinforcement won’t be seen on the finished model and will add years of life to the project. You will want to hold off on adding the stirrup steps until after the car has been given a color coat to make masking easier. By now you should have fully overcome your fear of stripwood, and be ready to tackle the next project!
You may want to take some time to work up a list on a scratch pad to identify which piece of wood is used for which part of the construction.
After cleaning up any blemishes on the model, re-spray with a light coat of primer and allow to dry over night.
Some highlights were then air brushed over the basic color coat to enhance some of the details, however, this step is optional.
However, to be on the safe side you will want to let the sealed parts dry over night before proceeding further. There are a number of inexpensive gray spray primers available from various paint and hardware stores. All of them yield good results when sprayed on in light coats and allowed to completely dry.



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