Model railroad turnout templates,model making scenery supplies,ogr publishing inc,kato n scale train sets - New On 2016

Adding a lift out section to cross the door and the closet to connect the SP mainline to staging and complete the around the room loop.
While still meeting all the applicable NMRA standards, these uniquely extremely accurate turnout templates are drawn to match the true prototype (AAR) turnout geometries and their consideable variable tie spacing. Turnouts built to these diagrams appear much more realistic, because they do not continue to repeat the compromise curved switch turnout geometry of NMRA Recommended Practice RP12 and RP 13.
As well as being far more prototypically accurate, these templates include most of the missing major prototypical parts traditionally left off most other commercially mass distributed compromise templates. Many different prototypically correct frog types can be used with these templates, so those will be shown separately later. All images, products and text remain copyright of their respective owners, whether noted or not.
After playing with XtrackCad and SCARM, I've decided that until I have a much more complete and solid idea for a track plan, I'm going to draw them by hand. Seems much quicker to ink in my bench work on graph paper, then scribble away as ideas come to me.
I've got a firm grasp on straight track (ruler) and curves (compass), but I'm not completely sure about turnouts. That seems logical to me, but I'd like to be sure - I don't want my drawings going off into fantasy land. When I googled for it, the only results that came back were for full-size track templates, and track plans that the user had hand-drawn. I've also found it fairly easy to make sections of track, like a siding, the way I want and then slide it into the area of the layout it needs to be. To your point about penning in the benchwork and then drawing the layout on top, I do the same thing (digitally) but wonder if it's better to just draw the areas that are acceptable for layout, then the tracks on top, then go back and design benchwork underneath. In this example, three #6 turnouts are combined in an arrangement like a pinwheel ladder yard throat.
I started out using graph paper and ended up frustrated at the amount of time I was spending with a straight edge, compass, pencil, and ERASER, only to find I was off, in the end. The diagram below shows how a standard turnout with rails soldered to PC Board ties and a manual ground throw is wired. Welcome to the PECO products website incorporating RATIO, WILLS, MODELSCENE and K&M Trees. Research the location of your nearest UK model shop, or locate your country’s wholesale distributor (or retailer if we supply them direct). Provide technical support through our Technical Advice Bureau, and you can also download turnout and crossing plans for the most popular scales – ideal for planning you next layout. Each issue includes featured layouts, scale drawings, layout plans, shows-you-how constructional articles and prototype surveys.
I had tried to install hand laid track on my HO model railroad in the past with mixed results.The mainline and sidings worked out well in rail codes from 55 to 100.
This was when I and the Nottawasaga Model Railroad Club decided to build some free-mo modules with hand-aid track in Code 83. I have used Fast Tracks tools with the free templates you can download from the Fast Tracks website and built some turnouts without the jigs. If you are curious about the Internet, social media like Facebook and Twitter, and want to know more about what's going on in the wide, wide world up in the clouds, and especially if you have any desire to do something for yourself, I urge you to take a little time to watch the video below. Glossary of Model Railroad Jargon Jan 20, 16 01:06 PMA glossary of jargon to explain model railroad terms and definitions. ShareThisWhen I started my new layout I decided to go with the Fast Tracks jigs initially thinking of purchasing their dual  gauge system which was $150 for the assembly fixture, but realized I would need two, since I would need narrow gauge on both left and right. Then run a single piece of double sticky scotch tape the length of the diagram (on top of the clear packing tape).
So, armed with the supplies for the track itself, a printout template, a couple of files and a vice I got started on my first turnout.
My second turnout is much better than my first try and just needs some touch up in the area of the throw bar since some wheel sets are picking the points. Just recently I discovered guidelines for the design of industrial trackage of the BNSF that includes schematics for #9 turnouts.
With a hot iron and clean parts as well as quality solder and good flux code 40 rail should solder instantly. On 1  touch the tip of the iron to the rail above the tie-- at the web for code 80, the top for code 40. On 6 move the iron back onto the rail (pressing the rail and tie together) and touch the solder to the joint. By 8 you should see solder appear on the far side of the rail-- touch the solder to that side until you have the bead size you want.
You can remove excess solder with solder-wick or a sucker, but be sure the rail is held in place as you do this.


If other joints soften before the one you are making is done, you need a bigger iron (or at least a bigger tip). I recommend rather than attempting to manage flux, solder and iron, first tin the rail, tie and then after both cool, put a small dab of flux on the tinned spots, place rail at the correct location and then use the locations above to heat the joint, the flux will liquidify and the solder will flow and the joint is now secure.
All of the suggestions posted are very true, can I suggest also that you clean the PC board and under the web of the rail before you start to solder. The extra flux made soldering the rails in place a lot easier and basically sped up the whole construction process to about 3.5 hours now. I had a bit of a problem in the frog area where the point rails are bent to become the wing rails. The NMRA Recommended Practice RP12 and RP 13 curved switch geometry was introduced by the NMRA way back in the 1940's specifically to allow train set manufacturers to more easily handle the then much cruder toy train locomotive chassis' and sharp curves of those times. Many more turnout types and sizes are coming, so come back and check frequently, or email us, if the ones you want aren't shown yet.
The curvature of the rails can cause the outcome to be a little different than simply a ratio. It is quick and simple, but I found that anything I doodled was impossible to transpose to a CAD program. But general rules-of-thumb for drawing turnouts may not be accurate enough in areas where many turnouts are joined.
I know my old man bought one a while back from the hobby shop and used that to hand draw our layout (his now cuz I hardly use it).
It does have a steep learning curve, but if you follow the demos in the help section, and if necessary use the online tutorials, you'll be drawing in no time. Every month it features the best from the hobby for those modelling Britain's railways in all the popular scales and offers a unique blend of articles by experts and beginners alike, including a special section for newcomers wanting to learn all about the hobby and model making in general.
The cutting heads are designed for specific rail sizes and I only have Code 100 and 70 heads, not Code 83. Since I only needed 6 dual gauge turnouts the cost would not be justified so I settled for a standard gauge #6 code 70 assembly jig. From these templates I made a turnout tie jig to make the tie assemblies.This works very well for me. I like to clamp an 18" steel ruler next to the straight side of the turnout at the edge of the ties. After the ties are glued in place and the turnout spiked down I use a cutoff disk in a moto-tool to cut the over-length ties to length.
After watching a couple of videos and reading articles on hand laid track I decided that it all looked like I could do that too. Halfway through the first turnout I tried using my Dremel tool instead of files and a vice and I continued using the Dremel for all parts of the turnout since I find it gives me much more control over the parts and allows me to form much sharper points. To my surprise soldering the pieces into place took longer than forming them, since it appears to be kind of hard get the rail as well as the copper cladding of the ties hot enough (both at the same time!) to allow the solder to melt and flow properly. Those turnouts have longer wing rails and guardrails than the fast tracks templates suggest, but I don't think that that will be a problem.
Lift the solder after one drop has melted-- this will help conduct heat into both tie and rail. In my experience, new solder artists either are too timid and don't get the joints hot enough to bond, or apply too much heat and burn things up. You see it's a race-- the heat traveling along the rail verses the heat melting solder at the joint you are working on. The flange way turned out a bit too tight, so I had to position the guard rail with a bit more space to the stock rail to compensate. Now finalizing the design using cardboard templates and N scale equipment.Turnout locations are adjusted to allow the Blue point controllers to clear the layout framing.
Next shot is how to put smaller diameter wire on the Bluepoint controllers so they can go thru small holes in N scale switch throwbars. And unless you're hand laying turnouts you'll need to have more specific dimensions of the manufacturers' products in order to have a reliable drawing.
So it's important to use templates accurately-sized to the brand of turnouts you plan to use in tight areas. I was at the Greenberg show today in Wilmington, ma, and a couple vendors had them for O scale, but I didn't see any for HO. The spiker is out of production although Kadee still has some in the catalog, but new heads would be very pricey.My usual method is to use a small pair of pliers and Micro Engineering Company medium spikes. I use ME railjoiners as the hinge and jumper the point rails to the adjacent stock rails using a single strand from 12 gauge stranded wire under the turnout. It does not appear to be a problem operationally, however I'm not sure whether this is normal and to be expected or not.
The size of the iron tip and the mass of the parts of the joint determine how fast the temperature rises, as does the contact area between tip and joint.


Once the track location is determined the turnouts will be built on plywood switch bases.and cork roadbed will be glued between the switches. Note that there is even variability in the Fast Tracks turnouts (designed from the NMRA HO #6 pattern), depending on whether one builds them to the minimum size possible on the jig (for tight areas) or the typical size on the jig. Since the laser cut ties were over $7.50 each I decided to hand lay the turnout ties, using Campbell profile ties that I already had. This gaurantees the points have power, but it does require notching the ties before installing the turnout out to make space for the jumper wire. At this low setting its save to use my fingers to press the code40 rail to the rotating bit as long as I pull back as soon as the rail starts getting too hot to touch. Fixing this would probably require much sharper frog points an I don't think that is really doable. As for the picking points problem it might be the wheel sets, I noticed that my lifelike GP20 would occasionally pick a point where my freight cars never did so I checked it with a gauge and the back to back dimension was tight. Gap locations are shown on the Fast Tracks printable tie templates for each scale and size of turnout.
The code 83 track had been handspiked about every 6th tie with Micro Engineering small spikes: ie, the spikes penetrated the cork as well as the wooden ties.
I did this once but find that after all these years I can insert a spike without the groove.
This turned out to be a mistake since they were thinner than the copper clad ties used by Fast Tracks including the throw bar. Then I run a strip of masking tape the length of the tie strip and using another steel ruler, carefully pry the tie strip away from the double-sticky tape.
The layout is L shaped about 4 feet by 15 feet so the total length of scene is a little over a half of a scale mile. Of note here is that the same procedure had been used on some other sections using this same old cork.
I eventually added Tam Valley frog juicers for added reliability of pickup for short wheelbase locomotives.Three-ways are a little trickier to wire. I plan to get SP and ATSF interchanges and about 10 industries in the space so it's pretty crowded even in N scale. Last shot is the thin throwbar wire cut off after installation, the Micro Engineering turnouts have short throw bars so the wire has to be cut below the clearance point of the loco sideframes. An excellent reference source I found on the Internet for wiring turnouts is Allan Gartner's site.
Since I had  already built several turnouts and found filing the stock rail more difficult, I decided with my new order to buy the stock rail tool and the tie cutting jig. Some rail needed to be painted because I ran out of weathered rail.Note the use of pins to act as stoppers at the end of tracks. This was a length of track on a curve: No turnouts or crossing or other fancy trackwork, just two rails.
I have a bunch of track gauges acquired over the years that I spread out along the track I'm laying down. The diagram is from Allan.I highly recommend the Fast Tracks system for anyone who would like to try handlaying some track.
We then removed both rails and substituted code 100 prefab track on plastic ties and reconnected the joiners.
On straight track, use a metal ruler to keep the rail positioned on the ties where you want it. The Fast Tracks website has lots of information and the videos and instructions are very clear and easy to follow. Once in place, slowly run a soldering iron along the top of the rail to quickly set the glue. Finally, we inserted the test meter's probes directly into the cork roadbed beside the ties (no track in play, only the cork). The "portable" building where we kept the layout was only heated in the winter when we met on Monday evenings and was not cooled during the summer.
We may just have been lucky that locomotives were passing through these sections without trouble.
If we had convert to DCC before fixing the trackage this problem may have reoccurred due to the increased sensitivity to short circuits.



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