Model railroad tortoise switch machine,s scale figures,lionel fast track for sale - For Begninners

Product DescriptionThis is the SLO Motion Switch Power Supply from Model Rectifier Corporation.
Detailed wiring diagroms provided show how to wire the MRC SLO motion power supply AH362 with MRC AD360 dispatcher decoder (mrcad360) or a switch to your train layout switch.
Please allow me to start thisthread that maybe has been dealt with before (I couldn't find) as I'm in need for help.I switch my turnouts with Tortoise slow motion engines. How would you wire a dual toggle control for operating one set of Tortoises for a crossover from both sides of the isle? The Tortoise slow action switch machine contains internal switches, draws very little current and easily Mounts under the table. The resistance of the Tortoise™ motor is about 600 ohms, an ideal limiting resistance for LEDs. Mounting Circuitron's Tortoise switch machines on my new layout's 2"-thick extruded-foam insulation baseboard has been challenging. Hi everyone,I was wondering, in the instructions for the tortoise, it says to use light gauge wires. Since I have remote switch controlers (Digitrax DS64's) and use #24 cat5 wire with no problems.
Tortoise aren't really designed for pushbutton operation as they are stall motors which should always be powered up. I use the single reversing DPDT method with a single panel-mounted bi-color LED as detailed in the Tortoise instructions. Message: Some local area guys had asked about hooking up their layout’s, as I had done mine with the Bi-Polar DC system using SPDT switches.
Message: Actually, an even simpler way and no resistor is needed, just put a BI-POLAR LED in series with each power terminal on the Tortoise. Don't tortoise machines need constant power to hold their position being that they are stall motors? However, I forsee a potential issue is 2 or more operators all try to throw the same turnout (and thus are holding down their respective momentary toggles) at the same time. Multiple press-button (or momentary centre-off toggle) switches can be simply parallel connected, and are only switching 12V low-current logic lines. I've had two Tortoise switch machines but was reluctant to install them because bracing under my N layout ran right under the turnouts, so there was no way to mount the machine as the pictures and instructions indicate. If a short circuit occurs in your track power circuit, immediately remove power and reverse the connections to circuit board positions 2 & 3.
I tried the hook-and-loop fastener solution explained in the October 2005 Model Railroader but didn't like the wobble or the actuating wire's long reach through the foam board.


From the panel to the Tortoise I use solid 20 gauge 2-conductor doorbell wire, available at your local hardware store for about 25 cents a foot. Just like LEDS etc switches are same as radio shack etc but in bulk from probably importer or wholesaler! I made them a display how-to, and thought I would post it here as well for anyone interested in this type of hook-up system. They are wired in series with the (+) of one supplyconnected to the ( - ) of the other supply. I connected pwr source to center lugs.  Tortoise connects to outside lugs ( either end , NOT both ends ! However, once at the desired position, power can be removed and they will stay essentially where they were left.
It's concievable that this could present a short circuit condition, with possible bad results.
The 555-chip does not care if multiple operators try to throw the turnout at the same time, and will work out what to do if near-simultanous contradictory commands are recieved. This easy-to-mount switch machine features prototypical slow-motion action-three seconds to complete throw. If all your TORTOISES™ are mounted facing the same way, you can eliminate the terminal block after you have determined the proper connections. After some experimentation, I've developed the mounting method that's shown in the illustration.
There's very little draw for a Tortoise, so light is good.There should be some wiring diagrams on the Tortoise instructions that can deal with push buttons or LEDs. Inside the panel I use 22 gauge stranded wire from Radio Shack, since these wires need to flex more for panel removal and occasional maintenance. This way of hooking up your Tortoise’s is also covered in the Tortoise instructions within the package. This common connection feeds a bus wire (I used green) that runs around the entire layout, and connects the motor connection #8 from each Tortoise to this bus. You would definitely want one resistor per bulb if that is what the signal is using.JohnThanks John for your comments. That being said, your diagram does work perfectly for the Tourtoise application intended, however.
With Shinohara™ brand turnouts, we recommend bending the small contacts protruding from the points in the vicinity of the throwbar down and out of the way so that they do not contact the stock rails. Note that if the signal is a Light Emitting Diode (LED) type, a DC power source MUST be used.


The issue is that a push button must hold the current ON, since the Tortoise is a stall motor. If you cant get angle orientation correct while below table drill a hole each side of throw bar or arm and poke a couple of tooth picks through or something longer like a scewer. However, if the user presses and holds the toggle, the Tortoise will make the desired movement.
But, if one was to use LED's, you are correct, it is better to use a resister for each LED.The picture shown, taken from the Tortoise instructions, show one resister used, but using two I agree with your thoughts. With Peco™ brand turnouts, it is best to remove the stock overcenter spring so that the points move freely. I'm no wiring whiz, so good luck!You should go to at least a 0.040" wire for that thick of roadbed. I was again at AA hobbies today asking John if he had seen you around.If you were there today, I don't know which John you were talking to -- it is Sunday, right?I'll try to make it down next Saturday to AA. If the wrong lamp lights after wiring, interchange the connections to circuit board positions 6 & 7.
You'll need to open up the hole in the fulcrum and in the throw arm to accommodate it in the hole under the holddown screw.That's a longer throw thickness than anything I have. When heavy currents are to be switched by the TORTOISE™, we recommend driving a relay from the auxiliary contacts. The relay coil would be wired exactly like the signal and would connect to either position 6 OR 7, but not both. You could follow me over the the Providence Northern Club just down the street from the hobby shop.
I attached a thin aluminum plate to the end of this wire with epoxy and drilled a #60 (about 1 mm) hole. The job was straight forward, and I was able to get rid of those ugly surface mounted switch magnetic motors.
If you mount the green and red LED in a dwarf signal in reverse parallel (plus to minus) and in series with the power lead, only one color will illuminate with each position of the points.



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Comments to “Model railroad tortoise switch machine”

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