Model railroad lighting effects,lionel polar express train o gauge,what is ho scale in inches - Downloads 2016

Overhead LightingAdequate overhead model railroad lighting is an extremely important necessity for properly displaying your model train layout. I would only add here that rather than use all white lights for your structures, it would be more realistic to use yellow or amber bulbs to represent the incandescent lighting that most people use in houses and small stores.Street lamps and signsThis is another aspect of scenic model railroad lighting where you can really enhance the realism of your buildings if you use street lamps that actually work. Alright, how exactly do people manage to get so many flourescent light fixtures so closely spaced on a ceiling or under the valence and wire so many safely? Lighting choices are holding up my design and progress, as I cannot figure out how to better illuminate my layout space safely.
For wiring connections, I just pulled a single set of the 3 wires thru all the channels, then used 3M suitcase connectors (use the right size !!), to attach the 18 gauge leads from each unit to the 14 or 12 gauge buss wires I pulled. The lower level will definitely utilize LED strips as these throw the best looking light for the money. I have but the cost would be too much and I already have enough florescent fixtures and I am on a pension. Rather then replacing the lights, have you considered putting in a ventilation fan at head height or in the ceiling, to draw the heat out of the room?
Can they match the 3200 lumens I'm getting from a 32 watt, 4-foot, T8 fluorescent tube? There are 26 dual T8 fixtures in the train room for a total of 52 tubes and 1664 watts (for the lamps - the Triad ballasts are pretty efficient so I'm guessing less that 2000 watts total). Would a few window (box) fans help keep the air moving and the apparent temperature down during a session? As you probably read in my web page on the great enlightenment of the BC&SJ, one of the big reasons for me to make the change was that lighting behind a valence tends to leave the parts of the layout close to directly under the valence (close to the aisle) quite dark - especially the vertical surfaces, such as the side of a box car or station. One of your main problems is with the loss of light and in the top photo you are lighting up the floor above. Tom, the light on the ceiling is coming from the sections of strip that are hanging down from the sides of my temporary install. Ken, when I do the math I simply don't have sufficient circuit capacity to run the number of tubes needed.


It does seem tough to be able to judge how things are working at this points since the actual reflectivity of the layout has yet to be established, but the mockup does look a bit dark. If the LED light strips are truly 120 degrees of illumination, that means they're probably 60 degrees each side of the face.
The way you have them mounted, it looks like most of that 60 degrees to the front of the bar is illuminating the floor and being wasted. You should mount the bar at a 45 degree angle toward the wall, which should pull in the other half of the light (okay, 85% of it, at least) back onto the layout.
This assumes, of course, that the bar's 120 degrees is equal both directions forward and backward from the bar, thus with each half being 60 degrees from the lit bar face.
Joe, angling the strip didn't make more illumination (the tin foil is responsible for all of the increase) but it did make a nice light blue to dark blue fade on the backdrop. One type has an angle of around 170 degree light projection and the other is where the LED has a smaller degree of projection and if you look closely you will see that the construction of the LED will be a moulded white block with the LED not protruding out past the edge of the block at all. Although the type I use have the more extreme angle I mount them onto a piece of 45 degree 1 inch timber moulding which is just perfect.
Good luck and get ready to get plenty of compliments from visitors about the fantastic even lighting. You can also use neon or other types of sign lighting to put on your buildings and to light up billboards.
Add up the amperage of the units, it should not exceed the circuit breaker amperage rating in the main panel box. When I was deciding what lights to use, I was concerned about the safety of wiring up my own lights and connecting them to my valance, or having any wiring connections on the valance that were homemade. I am fairly sure the light levels will be fine but what is people's experence with such lighting and shadows?
Sorry, I don't have a measurement for before session and mid-session temperature changes. If I leave all the lights on while I'm working on the layout, the temperature does rise, but nowhere near as much during an op session.


The LEDs on the strip that is wire-tied to the MDF on the valance are pointing straight down. With so much layout to light up they are the only viable method from a cost of use standpoint as you mention. The strip is mounted 2" up inside the valence so very little light seems to be lost past the bench to the floor. One is a spot on a fireplace, but the other 3 just don't cut it for lighting a layout space, even for construction. It can be both way cool to be able to go from day time to night time, but also a huge problem depending on the PWM frequency. However, I'm rather suspicious that the temperature rise has more to do with 12 to 16 bodies in the train dungeon than the lights. Spec sheet says the strips have a 120 degree light spread with the majority of concentration within 45 degrees either side of center.
I am going to try a variety of positions and reflectors to see if I can improve the performance.
I have already put double breakers in the bottom 5 slots so my panel is maxed out at 40 circuits.
My 34 inch lights use 24 watts, the instructions said you can link up to ten fixtures together. I am considering putting lights in the isles and removing the valance much like Charley did here.



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Comments to “Model railroad lighting effects”

  1. Leonardo_dicaprio:
    Garden to run big scale trains - and you the small size (9 mm) of the.
  2. QaRa_BaLa:
    Electric engines and 48 distinct types of railcars you will start to design and style the.