Laying peco n gauge flex track,ho locomotives ebay,micro trains z scale passenger cars,pink train set wooden - Step 3

I recently started a room-size N-scale layout that will have about 130 feet of visible mainline track (and a lot more hidden). I also will be using some Micro Engineering Code 55 flex because it is the only N-scale concrete tie flex with the correct North American tie spacing. If you are running older equipment (with larger flanges) your selection will be limited a little.
Peco code 80 and code 55 - Great stuff, lots of track choices (curved turnouts, Stub turnouts, slip switches, and all kinds of stuff), solid and reliable. Now since Micro Engineering just came out with a DCC friendly version of their HO stuff a little while ago, N scale might be comming soon. Yeah, I was going to be careful with the transition, but since it is limited it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
With Flex track you can make any radius you want you don't have to rely on Fine track for that. Hi,I have Minitrix and Fleishmann code 80 in my layout (in hidden yard) mixed with Peco code 55 (visible tracks).
Hi Dani, thanks and the fact that the code 55 keeps its shape better is one of the reasons I want to go with 55 instead of 80. The only problem I tend to have with flex, is if you need to combine 2 flex track in a curve, they never really line up nicely. Images can be enlarged by clicking on them.Model Railroad track curves may seem like a simple issue, but there can be much more to them than meets the eye. A radius in geometry is the distance from the center of a circle to any point on the circle.
After writing this article I learned that the Japanese manufacturer Tomix offers N scale minimum curves of 103mm radius, or 4 inches.
For navigating tight turns your primary issue is the wheelbase of your locomotives and rolling stock. If the look of tight turns is going to bother you, and you don't have space to widen them, you can camouflage your curves with tunnels and narrow canyons. Now that you know the basics of curves, including the implications of tight minimum curves, the next concept you need to familiarize yourself with is the issues surrounding steep maximum grades.
1.What type of track is available that would be compatible with Peco code 80, if absolutely necessary can I strip the rails out of Peco code 80 track to make the points? I assume there are suppliers in the UK who can provide the necessary gear and perhaps you can point me in the right direction.
I suppose what I am looking for is somewhere I can go to fill in my total lack of knowledge about points and their construction for a model railway.
Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
I think it is fair to say that many modellers building their own track in this scale would use the 2mm finescale standards rather than commercial N Gauge -- that of course has implications for RTR rolling stock conversions, wheel changing, etc.
I would be doubtful that stripping components from Peco turnouts would produce very successful hand-built track, but making your own track parts really isn't difficult with a few jigs and tools. Joining these two societies would be your best way forward, if you are not already a member. Firstly I am not working in fine scale because I have a large quantity of track, locomotives and rolling stock and really don't want to throw it all away or get involved in conversion hassles.
I should have made it more clear that I wasn't talking about stripping Peco points, I was referring to the 2 x 3 foot lengths of nickel silver rail in each piece of Peco Flextrack of which I have quite a few boxes.
I might add that the scratch building of locomotives and rolling stock holds no interest for me but I am looking forward to the scenic devolpment part of my layout later. Kenneth Beckett wrote: Does this mean I won't be able to use Templot to create my points the way I would like them as I would like to replace the points I have already installed and I am about to embark on the next level, literally a new height level, which I had intended to make into a fairly complex shunting and services level. You can of course use the rails from flexi-track to build pointwork, but it is an expensive way of buying rail.
Kenneth Beckett wrote: Firstly I am not working in fine scale because I have a large quantity of track, locomotives and rolling stock and really don't want to throw it all away or get involved in conversion hassles.
Peco still supply the Code 80 rail as a separate item - Code IL4 -  so you should be able to get lengths of rail from suppliers who stock Peco - or possibly Peco themselves.
PCB turnout construction is probably the easiest way to start and the cost per turnout is low so you can probably afford to learn by your mistakes. Not sure how you managed to link half your message to my Profile page , but I've fixed it now. When things like that happen, it's an idea to copy the whole thing, click Back in your browser, and then paste it into the Quick Reply box instead (at the bottom left of the page). Thank you for your reply, your recommendations regarding assembly are duly noted and make a lot of sense to me. I appreciate your information regarding Peco Code 80 rail as my local model shop, which isn't really into model rail, doesn't stock it and I had no idea it existed hence my silly question re stripping it from Peco Flextrack. I will display my lack of knowledge and say that PCB means Printed Circuit Board to me and, as this is obviously not what you are talking about, translation would be much appreciated. It is already apparent that this field of endeavour, like all in modern times, has developed its own jargon and this I will have to learn first.


When you talk about soldering to timber you are obviously not talking about wood so I assume that the timber you mean is the material used to represent a timber sleeper, if this is capable of taking solder doesn't this make for a short circuit across the rails? It has just occurred to me to ask does the solder take the place of the chairs, if that's the right term, in the prototype? I think it obvious that my next move is to obtain Templot and see if a study of it will give me further insights into the mysteries of points building. I have visited all of the sites you have recommended and in fact have joined RMweb, I will spend more time on the others before deciding whether to join. I think I remember Martin having a few web pages with details of UK Point and Crossing work and I've no doubt he'll pop up with a few URLs. The bearers under plain track are called "sleepers" in the UK and are traditionally a fixed size -- 8ft-6in long x 10in wide x 5in thick.
The bearers under pointwork are heavier in section and are called "crossing timbers" in the UK or usually just "timbers" -- 12in wide x 6in thick x variable length.
Nowadays plain track sleepers are very commonly made of concrete or steel rather than wood, and sizes can vary.
Concrete is increasingly being used for pointwork bearers also, although they are still commonly referred to as "timbers" and the process of laying out the design of them is still called "timbering" -- not always straightforward in complex formations. Elsewhere in the world track bearers are commonly referred to as "ties" and the dimensions vary a lot from the UK sizes. After much head scratching and checking, I nearly abandoned the project when I thought that I least I would wash them to clean them from flux etc. N scale uses track with a gauge of 9mm which is correct for a scale of 1:160 and this is used in most of the world except the UK as far as I know.
When N gauge first appeared in Europe many years ago a UK manufacturer found that they couldn't get a continental motorised tender into a UK prototype so they built it to 1:148 scale (almost a prime number) and unilaterally declared this to be the UK standard. As others have pointed out soldering to PCB timbers is probably the most straightforward way of of producing pointwork. Soldering to PCB strip is quite easy and if you pre-tin the bottom of the rail and use plenty of flux it can be done with little sign of any solder blobs.
Attached is an example of 2mm scale track PCB sleepers, etched chairplates and cosmetic chairs.
I have only used Atlas Code 80 on previous layouts but chose Atlas Code 55 this time around because it looked so good in everyone's photography. Problems - turnouts have a spring like the Peco ones so it has those same issues, can be hard to find, very expensive. The Peco rail does not have a normal cross section, it looks more like two rails joined together upside down, with the lower part sunk into the ties.To make things easier and also to look better, IA?d suggest to stay with code 80 track. I didn't have any problems with the track gauge, indeed the curves have given years of smooth running!
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Peco Electrofrog turnouts feature electrically live frogs to enhance slow-speed performance.
Track curves on model railroad layouts require some planning and knowledge of a few relevant issues. Many experienced modelers would tell you that you can only build a switching layout, a layout with no 180 degree turns, in such a space. When choosing a scale in model railroading it is important to remember that the larger the scale, the larger the minimum radius for your curves will be. Usually easements are made with flex track, but they can be simulated with segmented track pieces.
I have been waiting over 50 years for this layout so I would like to get it right or as close as possible. Looking at the fragment of track on your home page it is immediately apparent that a fair amount of precision work is required in the bending of track and the shaping of the pointy bit (frog?).
Also, using Peco Flextrac and points I have completed the straight forward continuous run, which is an integral part of my layout. Afterwards there will be two further even higher levels , one at each end, which will comprise my major urban areas and passenger terminals.
The 2MM Scale Association provide PCB sleepers and lengths of PCB strip for pointwork to members. PCB strips are not the same thickness as PECO sleepers so all pointwork will have to be raised in some way.
I am not familiar with N Gauge Soc products but I don't think you will find much available in the way of gauges and jigs. 2mm scale modellers using bullhead rail do sometimes arrange to make solder blobs to represent chairs but we have much better arrangements now including plastic based track or cosmetic chairs to use with PCB sleepers. I just laid down some track over the weekend to test some track arrangements, and boy does that Atlas Code 55 look sweet. It just doesn't look the greatest (tall rail, oversize ties and tie spacing and so forth). People new to model railroading are sometimes unaware that model train track curves are sold in various radii.


The rule of thumb in model railroad layout construction has always been to use the largest radius curve that you can. On switching layouts your trains can only run back and forth, and modelers simulate setting out and picking up cars from industries and connecting up cars to make a train on them. The chart at the left shows the minimum curve available in various scales from different model railroad track manufacturers.
I think that for children, if you ensure that their trains can handle these tight turns, these Tomix curves will allow them to be much more creative in laying out track on an under-the-bed board.
This means you can fit an oval of Unitrack in a space as tight as 18  inches, or a double track in an area with a width of about 22 inches. Easements will increase the width of your turns a bit, but they will also make your layout look a little more realistic. Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. It's not very easy to adjust soldered track if you have laid and soldered to every sleeper. If you hadn't answered I wouldn't have been able to harass you so as the saying goes a€?no good deed goes unpunisheda€?. Most modellers in the UK refer to this form of soldered track construction as "copper-clad laminate" or usually just "copper-clad" track.
I am assuming that the liquid flux had seeped into the fibre of the sleeper base and had formed some form of electrical conductor.
I've been told one solution is that you must remove the spring and make a new throwbar in order to use DCC with no issues. BUT it's going to look a little weird going from a code 80 to a code 55 since the depth is going to be different.
I use Atlas & Peco code 80 with Peco code 80 turnouts and Kato Unitrack (code 80) bridges. You will need to remove some of the plastic cross links between the sleepers (ties) to allow the track to curve smoothly, this can be done with a blade or clippers. Modelers frequently like to run tracks parallel to each other, and this requires curves of different radii.
Kato actually offers curved sections in seven radii, one smaller and two larger than those shown.The term arc refers to the segment of a circle, and is expressed in degrees.
Some people really enjoy doing this.But if you really want a continuous loop layout in your small space, despite the fact that it may not look prototypical, then minimum radius becomes very important to you. The fractions are not very relevant here   It is not too obvious when seen from a distance, but it not something that I could accept. But when planning space to turn your trains around, you need to remember that the radius given by the manufacturers is measured from the center of the track, not the outside edge. If not this could be a problem as I have never done any precision modelling and could crash and burn on this type of work. Peco track uses a flat bottom rail held onto the sleepers with large bits of moulded plastic that look vaguely like chairs. Personally I prefer the Peco flex track, it's sturdier and easier to make radii with, the Atlas costs less but is flimsy.
I've said a lot more about space in my article on train tables and boards for children. So you need to add the overall width of a track piece to the diameter in order to properly calculate the space needed to turn a train around. If you know of other sources for Tomix track in the US, please notify the guide so that they can be listed here.
Short trains pulled by smaller steam locomotives, or short cuts of modern cars pulled by a switcher look fine on these curves. Camouflaging doesn't let you run six axle locos, it just makes the trains that you can run look more realistic. For instance bending a piece of rail to shape would, I suspect, not be practical or accurate enough simply using a pair of pliers. Prototype flat bottom rail is actually fixed to sleepers with a fairly thin baseplate and clips that are almost invisible in this scale. Depending on scale and manufacturer, track pieces may be found in 15, 22.5, 30, and 45 degree arcs. If and when you go to build a permanent layout you'll likely want to change from segmented track to flex track, but everything you learn from segmented track about curve radius and arc will still apply.
They are not relevant for flat bottom except for certain positions in pointwork where clips cannot be used; mainly where the switch blades move.



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