Kato dcc power pack,mb klein coupon code,hobbies train sets,best price polar express o gauge train set - PDF 2016

Remove the bodyshell by gently prying the shell away from the body, pulling out at the points directly above the trucks. Note: You will want to remove and set aside the ladders at this point so that you do not lose them.
The locomotive's trucks are snap fit and can be removed by twisting and pulling them off of the body. Using your phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding down the factory circuit board. Make sure that the GPS dome switch is rotated so that it is in the default position (as shown in this image), and then use a piece of Kapton or electrical tape to secure the rotator from the underside (to prevent it from being moved) - this is so that we can ensure that all light control will be handled by the DCC board rather than through the analog selector switch.
In order to modify the board to take a DCC decoder, you will first need to cut four (4) traces on the board (as shown in the image) - three (3) on top of the board and one (1) on the underside. Finally, if you wish to have an 8-pin plug-and-play option for your decoder and do not intend to solder the wires or pins directly to the board, you can solder eight (8) pin sockets into the blind holes on the factory circuit board as shown in the image - for this project, these sockets were removed from a spare Kato #958033 RS-2 circuit board, but the sockets are also made available by various DCC manufacturers.
Using a soldering iron and a pair of tweezers, heat up the brass strips and remove them from the motor leads on the truck. Cut four pieces of wire, approximately 6 inches in length (longer is better - you can always cut it shorter later!) to make it easier to keep track, we recommend matching the red and black wire pattern of the motor leads. Thread the longer wires that you soldered to the trucks through these holes and reattach the trucks to the chassis - when reattaching the trucks, the front truck is marked with an "F" on the underside and the rear with an "R", while the arrow molded on the underside should always point towards the nearest coupler and away from the fuel tank. To ensure the wires are seated correctly and will not interfere with the movement of the trucks, remove the gray frame half spacers from the top of the mechanism (photo #2) and feed the wires from the trucks between the frame halves and underneath where the gray clips are mounted, being sure to test the wiggle of the trucks to ensure that the wires or not being pulled so tightly as to restrict their movement. On the underside of the modified circuit board are two metal pads (each with two small holes); these are where you will want to attach the motor leads.
At this time you will want to place a square of Kapton tape on the frame below where the lightboard will rest (as shown) - this will insulate the frame from the modified circuit board and protect the DCC plug. Even if you are using an 8-pin plug, you will need to solder the purple wire from your DCC decoder harness to the lower, rear LED in order to control the rear tail lights (F2 on most DCC decoders). Once you have finished soldering wires, re-seat the board on the mechanism and use the screws you removed in Step 4 to secure it. Carefully fold the wires down the side of the mechanism and fit the deocder into the cavity in the side of the locomotive. Optional: You may wish to cut a notch in the side of the mechanism with your rotary tool to slot the wires through to prevent them from pressing against the sides of the locomotive shell. There are a few tools and supplies recommended for performing this decoder installation. Remove the end ladder assemblies by gently prying them loose from body at the base then lifting up to free the roof transition grab irons.
Finally, remove the weights and separate the chassis into the three main pieces, roof, body and floor, by releasing the small catches that lock the roof into the floor. When cutting on the floor, be careful not to damage the brass contact strips that run the length of the body to connect the two trucks. I have communicated with Soundtraxx about a few of the challenges I have encountered in my initial efforts to use this product.One of the most challenging features is the large protrusion created by the pair of on-board capacitors located directly in the center of the board. After a quick test on the ESU 51900 LokTester DCC Decoder Test Station to make sure the board still works, I place the decoder next to the model to size the red and black power wire leads and attach a pair of SBS4DCC N Scale Kato Pickup Contact Connector Strips. Next, I resize and attach the SBS4DCC 4053 11x15mm "Sugar Cube" Speaker to the purple wires. If you have a complex railroad or just have trouble visualizing where your wires will go, you will like this simple idea. If wiring just isn't your thing and you are particularly nervous about what you are doing, I highly recommend you do this. If at any time you find that blue is facing red and red facing blue, you just discovered you have a reversing section.
The most important factor in determining the proper operation of your wiring is that the booster be able to trip when there is a short.
As I mentioned at the outset, there are a number of variables that affect when your booster will trip.
Booster size: The smaller (lower amperage rating) the booster you use, the higher the total resistance can be. Dedicated local buses allow main bus to be run out of the way of other wires typically in the back against the wall protected and away from all other wiring for minimal noise issues. With the availability of 5 amp and higher current boosters, there is the temptation to use them on HO and smaller scales to save on the number of boosters you will need to buy. Damage to a locomotive when it crept toward and then stopped on a turnout that was thrown against it.


Before we get into it, I must first say that if the booster you want to use does not have a voltage selection switch with an HO, N, or Z position do not use the booster for these small scales. The next thing you need to come to grips with is just how much power these boosters are capable of putting out.
Since no HO or smaller locomotive ever needs anywhere near 5A or more current, even when you have several in a lash-up, you need to limit the amount of current available. I do want to say that since bulbs do not cut off the power in a short situation, do not use bulbs in parallel to get current protection higher than 2.5A. The above diagram shows a way to distribute power while limiting the current to each sub district to something less than 5A. The bulb can be the #1156 automotive tail light bulb or a panel of bulbs such as the NCE CP6. Like your home circuit breaker panel, all the circuit breakers do not need to be set to the same thing. As I stated earlier, your circuit protection, be it bulbs or electronic circuit breakers, can add up to more than your booster can put out.
Hope I won't bore everybody to death with listing all my givens and druthers before you get to my actual questions.
An IDC that works well for connecting 14 AWG to 18 AWG would work good for me too, but I am about 6-8 hours flight away from the closest Home Depot since I live in Norway over in Europe.
You save quite a bit of jumper wires by having those conducting PC board ties here and there connecting rails - although at the cost of having to make sure you gap all those ties in the appropriate places (and that you also gap the rails on both sides of the frogs.). This will release the shell from the mechanism and allow you to pull it off, leaving you with the exposed mechanism (shown). Once removed, you will need to expose the motor leads in order to route them through the locomotive's circuit board (where we will be installing DCC) instead of them picking up electricity directly from the track and wheels. Carefully sever the electrical circuits in the locations shown in the photo using your hobby knife or rotary cutting tool, being extremely careful not to cut all the way through the board or cut any of the other electrical circuits.
Taking care that you have the circuit board oriented in the correct direction (the white rotary switch should be on the side closest to the front of the locomotive) solder the pair of left side leads to the left underside of the board, and do the same for the right. Take care when you're seating the board that the motor leads under the board are not being pinched between the board components and frame.
Take care that the wires are not bunched up as they may interfere with the shell's ability to sit securely. Two of the leads are for the headlight and two are for power pickup.It is important to note that you do not have to add the two wires for power pickup. Just paint the sides of a car with the colors of the wires you intend to use to wire your railroad. If you can't figure out what to do about this, ask for help on the Wiring for DCC Q&A Forum.
Most importantly is what size booster or short circuit protection you are using, the diameter and length of the desired feeder, and the size track you are using.
While it oxidizes very slowly making it very popular, it is not the best conductor in the world. In order to receive a Yes, that the booster tripped, the booster had to trip immediately upon my shorting the track three times. Here are some things to consider if your situation is different than the ones in my experiment. In Z and N, you should have frequent feeders, every 3-6 feet, as the track has high resistance and the booster will not be able to shut down if you go too far.
Local bus follows directly under the track it feeds offering very short track feeders and easy to trace track wiring. This can be done, but there are some things you need to know and do to avoid meltdowns and perhaps even fire.
You can do this with an electronic circuit-breaker such as the NCE EB1 or with bulbs such as the NCE CP6 or the #1156 automotive tail light bulb.. This means you can break up your layout into smaller districts; which makes troubleshooting easier. You can certainly do that, but most of you will probably choose electronic circuit breakers or bulbs. Use a coin, pliers, or screwdriver, short your track and make sure your circuit breaker shuts down.
Make sure that your wire and solder are only connecting the upper circuit and the center circuit. Utilizing some heat shrink tubing (or some small pieces of electrical or insulated tape) insulate these splices.


This will wire both motors together so that they will both react in tandem to controls from the decoder. One, you usually didn't have both throttles up so high that even if two power packs added together, they wouldn't add up to a damaging voltage. When you are done pushing your wiring car around your layout, blue should match up with blue and red with red.
Especially in N and Z, the distance from the short to the feeder connection can have an impact on whether the booster will successfully shut down. If the booster did not trip immediately or did not trip all three times I shorted it, the result was Marginal. Without running an experiment of your specific setup, I cannot predict with certainty what the results will be.
If you are using a smaller booster, such as a 3.5A booster, you might be able to use the next longer length feeder tabulated above, the next smaller size of feeder, or a longer run of track. Note that while your locos may not need a lot of power, if you don't wire heavy enough to allow the booster to shut down when you have a short, you will likely melt something. Downside is main bus wiring is in the middle of other wiring introducing potential noise into the other wiring and longer wire runs for the undetected track feeders. Most of the decoders are rated for a maximum of 16 volts and booster for higher voltages put out 19V or more. If your circuit breaker does not shut down and neither does your high current booster, a meltdown is likely (see photo above) and a fire is possible. For this reason, I prefer electronic circuit breakers that you can set with jumpers, such as the NCE EB1, or through software settings, like the Digitrax PM-42, where you just follow the directions to set the trip point.
The exact length of a heavy bus like this one should have little impact on the proper operation of your booster. Elsewhere in this website I recommend that every piece of track should be soldered to something, so on my layout, the maximum distance to a feeder is 39" (1m). Obviously, the recommend feeder sizes and lengths at the top of this section are more conservative than the results of my experiment might indicate. If using a larger booster, such as an 8A booster, you will need to use shorter feeders or larger feeders. The fact that the N scale track required a shorter feeder than the corresponding HO test, should tell you that N scale and smaller track has significant resistance. Main bus itself has very few connections making for a more reliable "protected" bus or strong electrical backbone!
Also, the main bus must accept a undetected track feeder taps reducing its reliability and potentially reducing the effectiveness of the twisting since it results in loose twists.
When using bulbs, when you short your track, the bulb should burn brightly to indicate that you have good wiring.
The second reason you didn't see the problem in the DC world was that motors are more forgiving of temporary over voltage. So if your bus is the recommended maximum of 30' (9m), the results presented in my tables should still apply without any need for adjustment. Note that an 8A booster, without short circuit protection, is not recommended for HO and smaller scales. Rather than looking at as a total of your circuit protection, look at it from the standpoint of how many locomotives you will be running off of a particular booster at a time. Electronics in decoders, electronics anywhere really, cannot stand even a brief over voltage. Your trains will run poorly and wherever your bad connection is will get hot, perhaps dangerously so. If you do this, you should always test the adequacy of your wiring with the quarter test over your entire layout — that means every inch (or mm) of it! Even using pliers with rubber band on the handles as heat sinks, I am concerned about having to choose between getting bad joints or melting ties (I am using a 30W soldering iron). If you do this, you would break up an active yard into sub districts because there is no way I can run my yard off of a single 2.5A bulb. My initial thought on wiring this one without too many complications with electrical switches etc is to use insulation joiners on all 8 stock rails reading out of the double slip, wiring straight track power DCC1 or DCC2 to the outside stock rails, and then wire the two frogs by using a automatic polarity reverser - perhaps a Tony's Trains PS-Rev unit or a Lenz LK-100 automatic reverser.



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