Atlas switch control box,woodland scenics incline risers,ho scale lift up bridge,chuggington train track sets - Review

I'd like to wire up some switch status indicators, and I've been searching, but every circuit out there either requires two separate switches or runs on DC power. Since most of the nifty logic-controlled momentary-switch activated indicator circuits run off 12V DC, can Atlas switches run off 12V DC power or will this fry them?
If anybody's got a way to run two lights off of the 16V AC momentary setup, I'd love to hear how it's wired.
Atlas switch machines will run off AC or DC since all they are is a coil of wire at each end of the plunger to attract it by magnetism when the coil is powered. I have always used Atlas & Peco switch machines wired through a capacitor discharge circuit which gives a good jolt of AC to the coils and don't run contacts for signals or other auxiliaries off them.
Post a link to the indicator circuit you are thinking of using so we can see if there is a way to interface the circuit to an AC powered Atlas switch solenoid.
Just wire it in parallel with the switch machine you now have and it will basically give you a DPDT switch that you could connect lights to using whatever power source you want. I like Mark's idea of using the Atlas snap relay, but I assume I could just buy a few components from Radio Shack (cheaper) - if only I knew what I was doing. Due to the coil being only momentarily energized a latching circuit is required to 'remember' which direction the turn-out coil was energized in.
I plan on tackling this in stages, since I'm feeling pretty stupid right now and don't want to keep frying stuff. Yes, you have the correct circuit isolated to get you DC power (second schematic in above post. The last schematic should work (I've never tried it) and also sounds like the circuit Mike uses (see post #2). When the switch is thrown, S1a down & S1b up, the energy stored in C1 discharges into coil A. Expect to goof up and cause some thing to smoke, then figure out why it smoked so you don't do it again.


Atlas HO Code 83 track is the choice of discriminating modelers of all skill levels and has become the new standard in model railroading. These switches have lived up to my expectations and I'm happy that I have decided to use them as my standard switch.I used to handlay my track so I have high expectations. Hey everyone, I have some Atlas code 83 switches on my layout that I have electric Atlas switch machines for but I haven't wired them up yet.
If you are using the Atlas turnout motors I strongly suggest you use a capacitor discharge circuit, because if you don't, holding the switch too long will burn out motors. The CD circuits look like they would work well for me and would save a bunch of space on my control panel, plus I now know where I could store a power pack to power them. Atlas has developed an all new Deluxe Control Switch Box to join our line of reliable electrical components. Designed to work in conjunction with the ever popular Atlas #56 Switch Control Box, it will also integrate with the Atlas #200 Snap-Relay or other solenoid activated devices such as the Atlas O #6098 and Atlas #66 Deluxe Under-Table Switch Machines. Used in conjunction with the Atlas O #6924 Non-Derail Circuit Board, the 2 products will allow for uninterrupted, safe passage of 3-rail trains over the long insulated closure rails of scale-configured switches.
A flip-flop will hold its two outputs (pins 3 & 4) at the level momentary presented to an input (pins 1 or 6). Since you have 16VAC a 'full wave bridge' rectifier and a filter cap is all that is needed to power the circuit you posted. Once it is charged C1 (+) is at the same voltage as the input voltage and no current is flowing through R1. The cap has stored a fairly high amount of energy which will energize coil A causing the turn-out to switch. Featuring prototypically-fine brown ties and nickel silver rail, it not only looks realistic but is incredibly reliable.Over ten years ago, Atlas started with a few basic pieces of Code 83 track. Circuitron's Snapper is a good unit or there are plans out there to build your own with easily available parts.


It was one liek this that I actually built even though it was probably overkill for my N scale layout with a grand total of 6 turnouts on it. I found some telephone wire that has four different wires, so I'll use that and just leave the fourth wire unused. Practical for all scales and updated to include an illumination feature, this component will help bring your trains to life! In essences the flip-flop 'latches' a momentary high voltage level (digital logic levels) so the corresponding LED stay lit after the SW is released. The CD4011 is rated for up to 15VDC so you will need to measure the output voltage from the rectifier to ensure it does not exceed the CD4011's max rating. Today the entire line is available, including switches, crossings, straight and radius pieces, allowing you to create any one of a number of interesting and exciting layouts, including every layout in our popular HO layout instruction books! It looks like a mess, the transistor is on a heat sink and the rest of the parts just hang off it, but it worked, and as far as I know still works although it's been stored away for 30 years now. The Red, Green and Black wires match the colors the manufacturers use and the Yellow will be a spare. I've heard some people use regular old adapters one would use for powering things like air mattress pumps, guitar effect pedals, some DCC systems, etc. In the mean time, being the the switch is now in the other position, C2 charges through R2 to get ready to engerize coil B when the switch (S1) gets thrown again. If the colors don;t exactly match the 3 colors Atlas uses, come up with a system and stick with it. The telephone wire is good for any length of run you will need especially if you use a CD unit.



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Category: thomas the train table set up | 12.07.2015


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