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Author: admin | Category: Calculateur De Pret Auto | Date: 26.12.2015

Bad crimps will fall apart, cause weak connections, look bad and will in general cause you far more headaches, frustration, and problems than they’re worth.
Proper crimping is generally faster and easier than soldering, but it’s more expensive as it requires more expensive tools and consumables. To solder hold the tip of the iron against the exposed wire for a few seconds heating it up. Once you’re done clean the iron off again by rubbing it quickly and gently against the damp sponge to remove any solder. If you’re making a harness I recommend wrapping the wires together using electrical tape every 8 inches or so, then covering all of the wires with properly sized wire loom and wrapping the wire loom on the ends with electrical tape as well as every 8 inches or so to help keep the wire inside the loom.
If you’re splicing 3 wires together with a single joint the process is the same, except one side of the joint will be two wires next to each other. Here is a list of ratios and drivetrain information, feel free to add or correct anything by leaving a comment. When converting your S14 from the Zenki (early period) style front end to a Kouki (late period) style front end one of the components deemed necessary for the swap is the headlight brackets. Originally created by greenkouki for HIDPlanet, this has been re-posted here with permission.
Could you possibly link me to what i would need to buy to do this , i know you mentioned the parts , you get them off ebay or a site you could link? I installed the components listed under 5, 6 and 7 just to provide power to the HID systems independent of SPU, because I doubt that the SPU is designed to be able to deliver the required amperage for a long time for 2x35W HID systems particularly in the first 10 seconds after ignition.
We hope to become the best single resource for S13 and S14 technical information on the web. Remove the small screws from the back and using a very small screwdriver pop the white backing off of the switch.


Bend the arms if needed slightly just make sure you don’t have the high beams down so far that they will contact while in park or low beams and the same for the others.
You can typically pick these up for about $45 I usually solder 16-18 gauge wire around 400-450 deg F, and then go warmer I’m working with heavier gauges. Some people use a lighter or a small butane torch, but you run the risk of over heating the tubing and burning it or damaging the wires so it’s not recommended.
I personally recommend a simple stripper with various size teeth for different sized wires such as these. If the solder doesn’t solidify within 1 second of removing the iron then your iron is too hot, or you stayed on the joint too long. Leaving hot solder on the tip will damage the coating on the tip and cause solder to stick to the tip of your iron instead of the wires in your joint.
I would also recommend stripping off a little more of the casing on each of the wires, try to slide the heat shrink tubing over  the side with two wires as this will help keep them together and helps you make sure the tubing is large enough. These brackets attach to the upper and lower radiator supports at the front of the car and provide a location for the inner edge of the headlights to bolt to.
It is necessary to make a small modification (heating and modeling) of the rear casing on the headlamp to be able to accommodate the projector (the lower one).
Before you go systematically replacing parts one by one you should check your headlight switch. It’s pretty easy to figure out click once 1 arm moves (parking lights) second click 2 arms move (left and right low beams) pull back or push forward and 2 more arms move (left and right high beams). You can determine the Amperage based on the fuse used on that circuit (which will generally be 2-3 times higher than the actually amperage the line typically sees).
I tend to avoid the automatic strippers where you insert the wire into the mouth and strip a wire with a single pull as I feel you don’t have good control over over the strip.


It’s ok to get some solder on the tip of your iron but you should never apply the solder directly to the iron. Once all your wires are soldered, slide the heat-shrink tube up over the joint so that it covers the joint completely and is evenly spaced on both sides.
If there are problems you can wrap the joint in electrical tape, or cut off the heat shrink desolder the wires and start again. Ideally however you should avoid making splits mid-wire, instead make splits at connectors right at the pin crimp, this makes it easier to track the path of the wire down the road. Melt as much solder into the joint as you can so that all of the overlapping areas are coated in a silver color from the solder.
It’s also a good idea to clean the tip of your iron every-time you remove it from the joint. I typically recommend soldering when connecting wires together permanently, however if you’re hooking up a connector, then I recommend crimping the connector properly if possible.
Once it’s warm clean the tip of the iron by rubbing it quickly and gently against a damp sponge.
You may have to move the heat gun around a bit to get good even warmth on all areas of the tube.  Once your done it should look like the image below.



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