Wooden power rack for sale, arbor designs plans - For Begninners

Categories: Woodworking Projects For Beginners | Author: admin 23.09.2012

You know how valuable power racks are in the quest for muscle, and how expensive they can be. Now that you've decided building a home gym is right for you, it's time to acquire some equipment. All of the lumber and other components for this rack can be found at your local Lowes, Home Depot or other good hardware and supply stores. These boards are the core of the rack and will take the most abuse so be stingy and pick 8 of the best you can find. After you construct the left and right sides of the rack there are three boards remaining (boards B, E and H).
For my rack, the overall height is 2" below my floor joists so I used a spare 2x2 that I screwed to the bottom of the joists then connected the left and right sides of the rack to it with several metal "L" brackets and wood screws.
Paul Shelley I still have some reservations about the strength of using pipe for the bar holding mounts, so I'm looking for a better solution there. Tugboat I think I'm going to go with untreated wood and get some spar varnish (the kind they use on wooden spars on sailboats). InTimmyDator After hemming and hawing I am going to build the rack taking some modifications from each person.
Guest Hi Barry, Thank you so much for all the effort you put into sharing all the details and tutorials. Tony I'm thinking about building a wood frame and buying 1" solid steel safety rods and also buying j-hooks built for a 3" square tube. Lalo the tuffest neighborhood guy hey I was thinking about building my own power rack like these ones shown. The power rack is the core of any bodybuilder's home gym, and unfortunately it's one of the most expensive components you will buy.
The overall price of the rack will vary depending on your local prices but careful shopping should get you in the $120-140 range for everything. I happened to use a wolmanized board on my rack as that was the next grade above the cheap stuff.
The bulk of the screws for assembling the frame are 3" #14 wood screws which are just a heavy duty wood screw. These three boards are what will tie the two sides of the rack together to complete the assembly. Ray, it looks like all you do is hand tighten the pipe cap to keep the rack pins from spinning. Looks like a giant hamster cage in my garage with all the shavings from the wood boring bit! Your suggestions are excellent and great upgrades for those willing to spend the extra $ to beef it up. Wood is plenty strong and the metal brackets on the corners look good, still trying to stay under the $150.00 price tag.
For instance the first column reads: (10) 2x6x96, so you need to buy 10 boards sized 2x6x96.
So many types of wood out there, not sure which ones would be affordable yet strong enough.
Cheap little pipe clamps either side of the wooden upright, and either side of the plate hold everything extremely tight. My bad for commenting having not started the 5x5 routine.For those interested in the thicker pipe.
I don't think it's possible to go too low, unless you wind up drilling a hole like an inch from the end of the wood!
I know what you mean about feeling it in your wrists, I have quite a grunty corded drill with no clutch that kicks like crazy when the spade bit gets stuck!!!Thought I'd be smart and get a circular rasp drill-bit from a local hardware store to smooth out the holes, and the piece of junk snapped on the first hole, so took it back for swap, but they had nothing better, so wasted a few hours on that. This is by far the BEST homemade power rack I've seen, along with very detailed plans on how to build it. Even a basic, no-frills power rack will cost over $400 when purchased new and shipping charges can be substantial if purchased online. You will need a powerful plug-in electric drill instead of a cordless unit for cutting the many holes that will need bored in the legs.

Higher ceilings can use 2x4 attached to the top boards and running at a 45 degree angle up to the ceiling.There is no right or wrong way for this as long as you can add something to reduce movement of the top of the rack.
This will allow the collars on the olympic bar to clear the sides of the rack and sit freely on the pipe fittings.
Although when i got to putting my bar on the rack i noticed it is too short haha, so i guess if any1 else builds this rack check your bar and make adjustments or be prepared to buy a new bar(i need a new 1 neway).
Here's the shocker for those looking at my build: I spent around $200-210 all things considered. I'm very interested in getting a good rack for my home gym and if I can save a few hundred bucks by building one, I'd prefer to go that route. I am getting into doing dips nowadays and I was wondering if it would be possible to put a dip station add-on somewhere on the power rack. Also, your measurements only give you 1" of wiggle room either side when you're racking the bar.
Im sure if 400 lbs fell on them they would bent alot for sure, but they served there purpose.
This would set me back $90 to add these two options, but i would still be coming in much cheaper than buying a power rack and I think this option would be very convenient. This work will tear even a quality cordless drill to shreds as they are not meant for heavy cutting.Other tools that will make this job easier include a HIGHLY recommended table saw for clean cuts (or a circular saw but the table saw is preferable), a cordless drill, attachment allowing the socket set to be used on the drill, various C-clamps and other grippers for clamping pieces together and a large table for a work space. I would highly suggest cutting the 45 degree braces with a table saw for clean and square joints.
As it stands now it's a very sturdy piece of equipment but being wood the less movement you have the longer it will stay a tight and rigid frame.
If for some reason you absolutely cannot connect the rack to your ceiling then the plan shows adding two 45 degree kicker boards at the top of the frame.
Boards "B, H and E" (reference the power rack plan PDF) need to be cut approximately 2.5" shorter.
I used plywood to support the uprights, used 2x8s for the top, and used black pipe for a chin-up bar and to hold the front together. Thank you again Barry everything about this thing is great the wood allows for more customization later down the road also. That's a far cry from the ~120 hoped for originally, but I just didn't feel comfortable leaving out the metal braces everywhere (about $35ish) and I ended up using more pipe pieces than were probably necessary. I can't lift that much now, but I imagine I'd at least have 400lbs on the rack at any one point. Thick wall piping would be the way to go.Thanks for commenting about the 4x4 supporting 500lbs. The old names, that most places will still know about was "Schedule 40" for the standard stuff you can get at the hardware store.
If a new rack is out of your price range and playing the Craigslist waiting game is not for you then read on, as we'll show you how to build a quality wood power rack for under $150 using basic tools and simple construction techniques.
Of all the boards in this rack, the eight 2x6 members for the vertical legs are where you need spend the money and buy the better grades. Be sure to buy one extra 2x4x96 for bracing the top of the rack to your ceiling structure (see end of article for this procedure).
If you're unsure of using drywalls screws you can go with a heavier duty wood screw but it's overkill in my opinion as the force pulling against these screws is minimal.
This method prevented the wood from splitting or splintering when the spade bit cut all the way through.If you drill all the way through from one side you will likely split your board on the backside. The bottom braces are the last step for this side of the rack; build the opposite side using the same methods.
This will significantly strengthen the top but not as well as true ceiling bracing.You're ready for action!Job well done!
Measure your olympic bar to verify this measurement before cutting these boards.Pair this homemade power rack with this homemade weight lifting bench. The rack boards are about 3" thick as well, so you just tighten the pipe cap by hand to keep the pipe assembly from spinning.
I am six foot, two inches tall with long arms and it looks like yours would have a low clearance for me inside on the standing OHP.

Sometimes rain blows through the screen, and I'd hate to build a rack from untreated lumber, and then see it rot in my gym. I was planning on making this rack so I can start out properly, do the workouts without added stressors.
Look for at least a "framing grade" of 2x6 and check each board for straightness and the fewest knots and other imperfections. The spade bit is chucking a lot of wood and by the time you are finished with all four legs your wrists will let you know it! I still feel it was well worth money, even if I am approaching the low end cost of a manufactured rack.1.
No way am I using wood!" Yes we've all seen pictures of some guy using a rickety power rack he built from spare 2x4s that's just an accident waiting to happen. The cheapest way to buy the spotter pipe is to buy the full length 8 or 10 foot piece and have the store cut it in half for you (free at Lowes or Home Depot).
Get 4.5" length pipe for the bar supports if you are using 4x6's, 4" was too short to allow washers. Here are some pics of the build and completed rack Next improvement is to add some ceiling bracing and paint.
However, wood has amazing compressive strength, and when built properly can handle extremely heavy weight.
The reason for this is because this wood is very wet from the water proofing treatment applied. You can use the ratchet set for this but an adapter to use the drill is very handy for these screws. Now the money you saved can go towards some extra plates and protein powder for your next workout.
To avoid having the rack in the way only use the inside for the top two bars and problem is solved.
Definitely tough to beat the price on this rack but I want to know if anyone has tested it with heavy weight crashing down.
Built properly to utilize wood's compressive strength and treated with some care (not intentionally abused) the rack we're going to build should last for many years of heavy lifting. Being this wet did not make for very clean cuts and the holes are a bit "choppy" on the inside.
Use "T" fittings for the back of the bar mounts, this way you can jam something in them (I used some rebar) to use as a lever to make sure they are really tightened down well.Feel free to do what you want with the pics, I'm glad it's finally finished! Wood also has some advantages over a steel rack, mainly being that this rack can easily be customized to fit your gym space.
Do this for EVERY screw in the rack.Once you have the 4 leg members screwed together we need to layout the spotter hole pattern on each leg. The boards will dry out after several weeks but I didn't want to wait this long before building the rack, lesson learned.Once the four legs are done the rest is easy! Low ceiling heights in basements or garages can be a challenge for some commercial power racks which are usually 82" or taller. Cut the remaining boards to the lengths as specified in the plans (remember to cut the holes for the chin bar, same way as the holes in the legs).
An item that is not in the drawings but is recommended is a piece of steel 1" wide flat bar or light gauge angle to mount on the sides of the legs to keep the Olympic bar knurling from slowly filing away at the wood. Your needs may not require as many holes as I placed on my rack so the total number is your judgment call.
I do like having the very top holes for moving the spotter pins out of the way when not used and the bottom set is handy for racking the bar when doing dead lifts and rows.
By building the rack in "sides" it will allow you to easily transport the rack to your home gym and do the easy final assembly there.Referencing the plan, start with screwing the two bottom boards of each side together to form an "L" shape (boards D and G). The bottom side of the 2x8 will rest on the floor with the 2x6 acting as the base plate for the vertical legs.

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