Wood finishes danish oil, dining room table woodworking plans - Review

Categories: Woodworking Plans Dresser | Author: admin 24.12.2012

Danish oil is a penetrating wood finish that is related to both Tung oil and polymerized linseed oil. The above image shows Danish Oil being applied to a cabinet door to add color and freshen the old existing finish.
After half an hour, test the wood to make sure the unabsorbed Danish oil is ready to be removed.
Allow the wood to sit for approximately half and hour and check to see if additional oil has risen to the surface.
Finishing wood for interior applications serves the functions of (1) protecting the wood (mostly from liquids) and (2) enhancing the appearance of the wood. The plastic look people are referring to when they assert this claim is the result of high reflectivity or "gloss." It is just as accurate to say that wood that is finished with a high-gloss surface has a "wet look" or has a "glass look" (indeed, these adjectives are sometimes used to market wood finishes).
Folks, all of these finishes are polymers, meaning they are comprised of long strings of carbon and hydrogen atoms, usually with some oxygen atoms thrown in. I am willing to bet that if one were to do an environmental lifecycle analysis of a quart of conventional petroleum-based urethane wood finish and compare it to a quart of some exotic tung-oil-based finish, the urethane would probably come out ahead. If you want a finish that penetrates a bit deeper, imparts more contrast to the grain in the wood, and is a little tougher, then use an oil-based polyurethane finish.
First, the most important variable in determining finish quality is your care and patience. Minwax Fast-Drying Urethane (available in different sheens) - I like the appearance (darkens wood more than acrylics). Waterlox Original Tung-Oil Finish - this strikes me as quite similar to the Sutherland and Welles finish. If you want to read some some interesting descriptions of finishes by those who are really obsessive about them, check out these notes by Russ Fairfield on finishes.

It often a top choice of finishes because it can be used on just about all types of wood surfaces.
The goal is to have the surface of the wood remain wet for at least 15 minutes of the first half hour. This brand of Danish oil is available in many colors and it provides professional-looking results. You should plan on applying a fresh layer of oil to your furniture approximately every year or two. Basically, to get a great finish, you need to start with wood that is sanded very smooth (with at least 220 grit sandpaper). Your first coat of finish is hopefully penetrating the surface of the wood somewhat and forming a composite layer of cellulose and the polymer that develops when the finish dries. The manufacturer makes pretty outlandish claims, mainly that this finish can be applied in a single wipe-on coat, and that it protects against water, etc. We encourage you to stop by our store and see our actual color samples, applied on Ponderosa Pine, our predominant wood of choice. It is a substance that is non-toxic which is why it is a typical choice for eating areas and for anything that may end up in a child’s mouth – such as wooden toys. Other than being too glossy for me (yes, plastic-y despite being a "natural" finish), it worked fine. Honestly, I think the reason some of the niche products survive is that there are lots of myths and superstitions about finishes, and because very few people try several different products side by side.
If an area becomes nicked, dented or scratched, use the same color Danish oil that was originally applied, and add a layer to the damaged area. The environmental footprint of the original feedstock from which the finish was made is probably pretty much irrelevant.

Realistically it takes two days of elapsed time to put even a basic finish on wood, even with a "fast drying" acrylic finish.
It must be applied in very thin layers (wipe on and then rub off) or the tung oil will not dry in a reasonable amount of time. Furthermore, most finishes are available in low-gloss versions, usually called "satin." So, the "plastic look" and the type of finish that is used on the wood are really two separate issues. Consider that roughly speaking a gallon of petroleum can make somewhat less than a gallon of wood finish and somewhat less than a gallon of gasoline. I like the wipe-on version because it has quite low viscosity, so is easy to apply, and seems to penetrate the wood very well.
As a technical aside, virtually all wood finishes are polymers (molecules comprised of long chains of carbon and hydrogen molecules), which is a technical term that includes all "plastics." In fact, wood itself is a polymer (cellulose). Your drive to Home Depot and back to buy the wood finish therefore probably consumed more petroleum than was used to make the finish itself. This polymerization is inhibited if the layer of oil is too thick.) This finish is expensive and has limited distribution.
Many finishes are thin enough that they work fine as sealers so you don't need to use a special product for the first coat.

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