Jointer planer, footstool plans - Review

Categories: Wood Wine Rack Plans | Author: admin 21.11.2014

First, a bit of background: Before I bought this machine, I was using a 6” Grizzly Jointer and a Ridgid 13” lunchbox planer. I estimate that an 8” jointer would handle 60% of all the lumber I typically buy, a 10” jointer would handle 85%, and a 12” jointer 98%. With a combination machine, you use the same head for both jointing and planing, meaning you only pay for the helical head once. The jointer uses a European style guard, which is quite different from the “pork chop” guard.
I planed a variety of species (QS red oak, FS white oak, Purpleheart, Hard Maple, QS Sycamore and QS beech) just to see how it would handle different grain patterns.
With two Asian-made models selling for half the price of European makes, even a hobby woodworker can joint and plane wide stock with one space-saving unit.
Convenience in changing from jointing to planing and back is different but about equal from machine to machine.


There is a little “give” if you push hard against the top of the machine, but it doesn’t move at all, even when jointing large, wide boards with some force. But just as with hot dogs, typically sold in packages of 10, and buns, sold in 8-packs, the math doesn't add up: Jointers commonly come in 6" and 8" widths, while planers start at 12". And second, the prices of the Asian-made models nearly equal the prices of stand-alone 12" jointers, so it's like getting the planer for free.
Fences on European machines mount more like a Biesemeyer-style tablesaw fence on one end of the jointer bed.
And it doesn’t make a lot of sense to buy a jointer with a carbide helical head but use ordinary knives in the planer. In the end, I decided against the Grizzly for two reasons: First, the fence on the Grizzly must be removed from the machine before switching to planer mode . I don’t plan to move this machine more than once a year (if that), so instant mobility was not high on the list of requirements (raising the feed requires getting down and dirty to move the turn wheels on the casters).


This is because the dust collection chute must be flipped between modes, and the planer table has to be 7” below the cutterhead for that. Two-piece tables require removing the fence before tipping the tables out of the way, and you may have to move the dust hose to a different port on the machine to serve the planer. If I had a separate joiner and planer, I’d probably spend the same time wheeling each machine into position.



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