Join wood end to end, shoe rack plans diy - For You

Categories: Wooden Park Bench Plans | Author: admin 14.05.2014

Finger jointing is a method of joining short wood segments using a board's end grain boundary to create a new and longer board with a continuous natural , as-grown, grain orientation. This time proven technique goes back over 4500 years and continues to be a way to make good wood better and longer at the same time. Our finger joints are machine made and the final joint is strong and can only be seen by the grain color changes from board to board. Removing all the defects also makes these glued up blanks excellent for turning and molding blanks as the glue line acts like the parent wood and goes through the whole joint with no voids.
A simple scarf joint will increase the surface area and provide a better surface gluing, it would probably be sufficient for this application. Of course if you could finger join it would be stronger, but you'd need a BIG shaper cutter. For shooting the ends, I used a hand saw to cut close to final dimensions, but then used a router with a long spiral cut bit to trim flat and square.

Another thought, the joining of all these pieces needs to be staggered to avoid a weak line across the face. Any joint that butts end grain to end grain will be weak because you're gluing wood fibers at their porous ends instead of along their sides.
Boiled down to basics, you must either add reinforcements, such as plates, dowels, or screws, or cut the joint in a way that creates mechanical strength and exposes more face or edge grain for a stronger bond, such as the finger joint, shown at right.
You could throw some dowels or loose tenons in the end grain to keep things aligned, but square-cut end grain really cannot be adhered effectively(try gluing a bundle of straws together end to end). This would also help with the end squaring since only half the width would would have to be done on the shooting board. I wouldn't rely purely on glue because, IME, while the glue is stronger than wood, the wood always tends to break very near the glue line. I am also concern about the possibility of the joint get pulled apart on the top side when the metal fastener is applied to its belly.

Part of what makes a good woodworker (also true of any other trade) is to be creative and resourceful. If you don't have a jointer or planer ( I didn't ) you only need to get each plie the same width, adjacent plies can be slightly wider or narrower and no one will ever see that. Commercial finger joints I see are usually in molding stock and finished door and frame units.

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