How to make wood dowel pins, best woodworking plans 2015 - For Begninners

Categories: Wooden Park Bench Plans | Author: admin 13.03.2014

While this joint is very simple in construction, it is not easy to make; and before a beginner uses it on any practical work, he should try it on two pieces of scrap lumber.
As compared with a mortised joint, when used upon common doors, the dowel is not so satisfactory as the mortise, because the tenon reaches through the stile, and the glue, collecting at the joint as the pieces are brought together, makes a stronger connection there than at the end of the tenon at the outside of the stile; therefore when the stile shrinks, it usually holds at the joint, and its outside edge draws toward the joint, allowing the end of the tenon to project beyond the stile the amount of the shrinkage. When used upon furniture and other work which is set up in a warm shop, and when made of thoroughly kiln dried lumber, a properly made doweled joint is perfectly satisfactory. A beginner often makes the mistake of leaving a slight error in fitting and expects the clamps to squeeze the edges together. This method of marking for dowels is sometimes used when it is not practicable to use method 1, as in doweling irregular forms.
If it is desired to dowel irregular forms, or to make a number of joints just alike, this method will not give good results and save a great deal of time, but the pieces just alike will be interchangeable. Make a templet of pasteboard; or, if it is to be used indefinitely, of steel, and through it prick small holes in the position which will denote the exact centers of the desired dowels, as at A. Place the boards to be doweled side by side in the vise, the face sides out, and even the joined edges. Before gluing, the work should be fitted together, as it is very awkward to make changes after beginning to glue. It is not wise to use a dowel longer than is necessary; one extending from 20mm to 30mm each side of the joint will holds as well as one reaching farther into the edge of the side wood, for the reason that the wood between the joint and the end of the dowel will shrink, and the longer the dowel, the greather the width of wood there is to be affected.


In boring holes for dowels, it is custom of many workmen to use one of the many forms of bit stops upon the market,in order to insure a uniform depth to all of the holes. The dowel joint is a weak one, and, unless the surfaces are flat and brought in close contact, the dowels will be of no service in holding the pieces together. A scratch awl should be used to make a small hole at the above described point, so that the bit will enter accurately, as otherwise it is apt to enter a little to one side of the intersection, or to follow the grain. Move piece B against A, being careful that the outsides are in just the right relation to each other, and apply enough pressure to make the brads leave imprints, in the end of piece B. Pull the brads out  of piece A; the holes thus made are the centers of the dowel holes in that piece. Place the templet upon the end of piece B, with the corner C of the templet at C of piece B, and flush with the face side; with a pricker, mark through the holes of the templet the centers of the dowels 1,2. Square lines across the two edges with knife and try square at points where it is desired to locate dowels.
If the parts fit accurately take the joint apart, glue around the inside of one of the holes with a small stick, dip one end of a dowel in the glue and drive into place. A longer dowel may sometimes be necessary in the wide stile of a door, to give sufficient strength to resist the slamming which a door receives.
This uniformity is necessary, otherwise the dowels will have to be cut to different lengths, which will require care and time to locate in their proper holes while the joint is being glued up, just when every second of time is precious.


If a door which is exposed to the weather is properly doweled, it will stand better than a mortised door in which the tenon passes through the stile, since in the latter case, the moisture will quickly find its way into the end of the tenon, and the door will be rapidly destroyed. Wipe off any superfluous glue and repeat the process with each of the dowels in that half of the joint. A dowel should be 1 - 3mm shorter than the aggregate depth of the holes which are to receive it, and should be made loose enough to be pushed in with fingers, but not loose enough to fall out or to be rattled around. In connection with this work it is best to try the dowel pin first by boring a hole of the required size in a piece of scrap lumber. The edges of the steel plate scrape off the remainder of the waste material and make the dowel stick round.
Then see that there is no hardened glue on the dowels or on the faces of the joint, and glue them as before into the other piece, this time putting glue on the flat surfaces which are to come together.
This allows some of the glue to be forced up between the dowel and the side of the hole, and not all pushed before the end of the dowel, which would be the result if the dowel were square ended; unless the dowel were too loose, in which case it would not have its full strength, as the joint would not be wood to wood.



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