How to make strong wood joints, free simple garage cabinet plans - For Begninners

Categories: Woodworking Plans Corner Desk | Author: admin 16.07.2013

This article provides advice on wood joints, covering the topics of making corner joints, joining a top piece of wood to a side piece, and joining boards at the center. You need to build strong corner joints in order for the wood project to succeed; therefore you must know what kind of corner joint best suits your needs. If you need to build an end lap joint, begin by sawing the end of each joint half-way so that you can form overlapping end joints.
Through mortise and tension joints are made by carving notches and slots, using a power saw and a dado head. If you have a higher technical skill, you can use a mortising chisel on a drill press to make an open mortise and tension joint. If the joint will only be supporting moderate weight in an area that is not prone to high temperature, such as cabinet doors and decorative woodwork.
If all you have at your disposal is simple hand tools, a regular rabbet joint may be the best option for you. Only those with highly advanced carpentry experience should attempt the this complicated tongue and groove joint.
While the milled joint is popular for drawers, the most popular drawer joint is by far the half-blind dovetail joint because it both hides the grain and makes a secure bond. Unfortunately, butt joints are not as strong as you may like; therefore, you should consider building a dado joint by cutting a dado into the connecting plank and securing it with screws. If you have a higher carpentry skill set, you can attempt the stopped dado joint, which is preferred for its uncut front edge and clean finish. To make sure you receive our emails in your Inbox, drag them from the new Gmail Promotions Tab over to your primary Inbox. When nailing or srewing but joints use corner or mitre clamps to hold the two pieces in place. Halved joints or lap joints are mostly used to assemble light frames which are going to be covered with hardboard or plywood. Mitre joints are always cut to 45° in a mitre box so that they will form a 90° corner when joined.


When nailing a mitre joint always start the nail with one part of the mitre above the other.
Loose tongued joints are used to join planks edge to edge to form a larger board like a table top in which case they are always glued only. Bare faced tongue and groove or Loose tongue and groove joints can be used to join chair rails to chair legs.
Tenon and mortise joints are very strong joints mostly used in furniture making and for heavy doors and gates.
Using the same settings of the mortise gauge mark the mortise on one side of the other piece of wood. Remove excess wood with a sharp chisel, always working from the centre to the edges of the mortise. Place the wood from which the tenon has to be cut at a 45° angle in a vice and with a tenon saw start cutting the tenon cheeks at the highest point on the waste side of the marking.
A through mortise can be strengthened by inserting small wedges in the opposite end of the wood to hold the tenon in place.
Bridle joints or open mortise and tenon joints are used in furniture making especially to join the legs to the cross pieces.
Lapped dovetails are mostly used for drawer fronts as they give a very neat, strong joint with only one side showing end wood. A very nice joint to use for fixing drawer sides to fronts but don't attempt it without a router. Dowels are mostly used to strengthen butt, mitre and rebated joints but are also used to join wood when making or repairing small tables, chairs and doors.
When using dowels to join cross pieces to small legs, stagger the dowels for maximum length and strength. Small pieces of quadrant or a length of quadrant run the entire length of the joint make excellent glue blocks and give a neat finish especially on the inside of drawers and boxes.
To add a spline, simply cut a groove in the ends that are to be joined and secure a cut-to-fit spline with glue or screws.


This joint required advanced carpentry skills and a power saw, but it's great because if forms a strong, yet unnoticeable bond.
Rabbets are great because they conceal the grain of the wood while staying completely secure by either glue or screws.
The joint will be secured by either screws or glue; it will produce a highly durable result that hides the wood grain. These are extremely secure joints which are built using power tools to shape the tongue and grove. Just be sure that you line-up this joint properly once without glue to make sure it's correct. These joints are not recommended for hardwood unless pilot holes and screws or dowels are used to hold them together. Half the thickness of each piece of wood to be joined is cut away with a tenon saw and the joint is glued and screwed or nailed. When the depth line of the tenon is reached, turn the wood around and finish cutting from the other side. Marked in the same way as mortise and tenon joints the only difference is that the mortise is cut into the wood from the end. The diameter of a dowel should not be more than a third of the width of the narrowest wood to be joined. When making a through tenon it is best to mark the tenon on both sides of the wood and to drill from both sides or to watch and “back drill” to avoid splintering the wood. To avoid having the screws come loose, thus causing the joint to fail, either countersink them or apply putty. Alternatively you can allow a little space at the end of the hole in which the dowel is inserted to allow for the extra glue and air but this will weaken the joint.



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