Diy wood lathe tools, how to make wooden toys for children - For You

Categories: Woodworking Plans Corner Desk | Author: admin 06.08.2013

A minor inconvenience is that when grinding different tools at the same time, the platform angle may have to be changed, which means the wheel has to come to a stop for the angle to be reset accurately. CBN (cubic boron nitride) grinding wheels are said to have advantages for grinding woodturning tools. The grinding angle is quite obtuse, like a scraper, and the tool looks like a scraper, but is not used like one. Its cutting action is like that of a traditionally ground bowl gouge, with the wing close to the wood surface. Then I turned an ash dowel to be a snug fit in the tool rest holder (banjo), and made a 25 mm x 25 mm tenon on one end. There you can see my work, buy great gifts, and find lots more information about woodturning, including pages on tool sharpening, bowl troubleshooting, finishing methods and more.
I have been going back and forth as to whether or not to use an electric motor for this lathe.
I have a motor from a vacuum that I am going to try to convert into a lathe using a dimmer switch as the speed control and a belt (fan belt) housed in box (for safety). They have to be secure, particularly if you run the lathe in reverse, so can get too tight to remove easily.
With the angle set, the tool simply rests on the platform while the grinder does its stuff. The method often recommended for setting the platform angle is to match it to the existing tool bevel, inking the bevel where it touches the wheel for greater precision. I removed some small burrs from the old wheel bushes that made them too tight for the new wheel.
The cyclone and fan unit were OK, but the filters took up a lot of space, and the distribution box leaked. A wooden post is held upright by standing it in a bucket of loose gravel on the floor behind the headstock. My extractor hose is there at the lathe and works quite well in its normal position, but would probably be better with the intake under the sanding table closer to the downward dust stream.


Unless the bar is stout it will bend, and if the hole is too shallow the metal around it will distort. The process is extremely simple, and platform sharpening is the best method I know for scrapers, skew chisels and square-ended gouges (some people hone the tools to refine the edge, but most probably use them straight from the grinder). You need a light touch on the grinding wheel, which is not easy if you are holding the tool firmly in place on the platform. I did that by holding the steel bushes in my woodturning chuck and skimming them very lightly with a graver.
As the abrasive layer is very thin, it is not possible to true it up with a diamond dressing tool, as could be done with a conventional wheel. Some turners use scrapers like that, but only if the tool is turned on its side, never flat on the rest as that could cause a severe dig-in. But the shape of the fluteless gouge puts the shaft nearly perpendicular to the wood surface, reducing any tendency to vibration. I had a 7 inch pipe running across the ceiling with smaller branches to the lathes, bandsaw and drill press.
The suction falls off very rapidly with distance, and has to compete with air movement caused by the spinning wood or sander. I think long jaws with a parallel grip are best for the job as they give good support to the wood. A lot of chisels are sold with raw, sharp edges and are almost unusable until they have been fettled, as well as damaging the toolrest. The tools were sharp after this, but I can’t say they were sharper than the old ruby wheel achieved.
In one way, this is helpful as I can sharpen small tools as the grinder is running down, the equivalent of a slow-speed machine (my grinder runs at high speed). But suitable casters are several inches in height and may make tools too high for easy use, and more unstable. The fluteless gouge must also be rolled on its side so the lower part of the edge is nearly vertical and slices through the wood.


As the extractor has a 7 inch inlet, I decided to extend the full size duct right to the lathe. The post has a projecting arm at about the height of the lathe spindle, at the end of which is a wooden cradle to support the hose, which hangs down from above. Today though I spent some time polishing the tool contact line. I started with a fine file, then abrasive paper, and finally used a buffing wheel with steel-cutting compound, aiming for a mirror finish.
Make the bend to match the curve of the item if possible, but it is better to have it too tight than too loose. And they don’t make the tools too wobbly, though a vibrating lathe or a mobile workbench would need to be wedged carefully. The sturdy tool rest and firm grip on the blank seems to eliminate vibration and made the cutting effortless.
An alternative to a platform for large tools is to use a long arm jig that supports the end of the handle only. I would rather take it slower when reshaping a tool and have a more gentle and controllable grind when sharpening. If the platform angle is always the same, any one tool placed on it will always be ground the same, although the bevel angles may not be the same on different tools because the edge of a thicker tool will be higher on the wheel. Although the grinding angle is obtuse, the wood coming onto the slicing edge sees it as very sharp. I can pull the arm to turn the bucket to any position, or slide the bucket to move the inlet along the lathe bed. If they are wide, the points are easy to keep clear of the wood, so the risk of catches is minimal.



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