Best sliding compound miter saw 2013, table seating plan stand - Try Out

Categories: Woodworking Plans Dresser | Author: admin 13.11.2012

Prized by carpenters for its amazing versatility, a sliding compound miter saw is also great to have in a woodworking shop. Because of their slide mechanisms, these saws occupy a lot of space, on average about 40 in. Each saw head tilts left and right to make bevel cuts, but the process of operating the bevel controls while supporting the heavy saw head ranges from simple to complicated (Photo 4). Every saw has likeable features, but the Makita LS1214F and LS1214L models come closest to getting the whole package right. The other saws are capable, but every one would benefit from a higher-quality blade, which would add at least $70 to the bottom line. You should also know that locking in precise setups for bevel cuts can be challenging on all these miter saws.
Photo 1: We prefer saws that minimize side-to-side play when the head is fully extended, because they make the straightest cuts. Photo 6: A hold-down that securely locks the workpiece to the saw table is a must for safe operation.
This saw appears similar to the Bosch 5412L, especially regarding several user-friendly features.
A new Bosch 8″ single bevel sliding compound miter saw (CM8S) is soon hitting the market. I would expect this new saw to appeal to users who would otherwise look at 10″ sliding and non-sliding miter saws. This post was originally published on Aug 1st, 2013, and was republished with minor updates on Jan 24th, 2014. The glide system would me better because it allows you to put the saw up right against a wall or anything else. With Dewalt miter saws, they probably figure a lot of users will be using them with a miter saw stand or similar.
I was thinking about like you said dewalt might expect users to use miter stands as a reason for not including the extensions but they should atleast throw in the clamp.
Many if not most miter saws are bundled with starter blades that are meant for rough framing cuts. With a well adjusted saw, a superior blade and zero-clearance set-up – a chop saw can do nearly perfect miters. For me, even if I was doing baseboard or flooring, I’d still want the saw on a stand with proper material support.
My most recent project that I used my miter saw on is my mosaic tile frame that I made out of wood yardsticks. On my bathroom vanity, I used the saw to cut the cedar fence pickets for the countertop, and also to cut the trim that I used to make the new cabinet doors and drawer fronts.
In that bathroom, I also used my miter saw to cut all of the pieces for the faux wood plank wall. You inspired me to try installing a new vanity in my bathroom so thank you, however, I bought a miter saw last year that I am afraid to use.


I got a compound miter saw for my birthday last year and immediately regretted not having a laser guide on it. I am excited to see more of this series… I so wish I had this article before I bought my miter saw (which I forced my husband to get me for my birthday 2 months ago). For example, accurately mitering the end of a long, wide board on your tablesaw is virtually impossible, because the miter gauge is too small and the saw table isn’t big enough to support the angled board during the cut.
When attached to a shop vacuum, only the Hitachi and Metabo saws collected dust adequately (Photo 8). Blade guards that fit inside the housing were more likely to hang up on the leading edge during compound miter trim cuts.
Fine woodworking demands perfect results, so a saw’s ability to cut cleanly and accurately carried the most weight in our ranking. The Makita saw’s blade consistently made amazingly clean cuts and saves you spending $90 for an upgrade. Although the miter scales are good on every saw, a readable bevel scale, like this one on the Bosch saw, is rare.
They independently switch on and off, so you can position the board without starting the saw. Another thing I find appealing about this saw is how it’s small but not stripped-down in terms of features. It definitely offers impressive cutting capacity, although I wonder why Bosch designed this saw with linear rails instead of the axial glide mechanism which seems to work pretty darned well. Or maybe Dewalt doesn’t bundle extensions with their saws purely to keep costs and prices as low as possible.
Even with extensions or supports from a miter stand, boards do move slightly while being cut if not clamped down and instead held down with a hand.
We bought our first saw at our local distributor – for just this reason and brought a couple of Starrett squares with us when we went to pick it up. While it may not be everyone’s cup of tea – I find it smooth operating with no slop – and it allows the saw to fit closer to walls in a shop. While I am extremely lucky to have access to my husband’s woodshop I never had a miter saw. With a sliding miter saw, just position the board, swivel the blade, line up the laser guide and go. The Makita saws, which are outfitted with a $90 blade, made the cleanest, smoothest cuts (Photo 2). All the saws will cut at least several degrees past a 45-degree miter on both sides, and most go to 60 degrees on at least one side. Either the scale is too small to accurately read, the top-heavy saw head is hard to control or both. Front-mounted controls mean you don’t have to support the saw head with one hand while reaching to the back with the other to release the bevel lock.
On most saws, the bevel scales are so small or awkwardly located that it’s tough to dial in fractional degree settings.


Although this saw isn’t engineered as precisely or built as heavily as the expensive saws, it still makes most of the cuts they make, just not as easily or as accurately.
But with a $469 price tag (as per Amazon’s preorder product listing), the saw had better be a solid performer.
I also like how the Festool Kapex and Hitachi miter saws put the rails in such a way the tool slides forward it just allows a better for more options on how you set up your saw. Switching from crosscutting big timbers to cutting compound miters in delicate trim takes only seconds.
Comparing the results from subsequent tests with top-quality blades installed on every saw revealed which imperfections were due to the blade (roughly cut faces and surface tear-out) and which were due to the mechanism (gaps and uneven cuts). Switching blades among the saws confirmed our findings: The Makita blade improved the cut quality of every other saw. When the saw isn’t in use, you can limit its intrusion by rotating the miter table to the left or right. On most saws, the location of the bevel controls isn’t as important as the number of steps needed to make adjustments. Several saws use arbor-mounted laser guides that aren’t adjustable and only come on when the saw is running. Making 60-degree cuts for an equilateral triangle is simple and cutting exotic compound miters for complex assemblies is no sweat. These extreme cuts tested the merit of the saw’s sliding mechanism as well as its blade. Switching out the DeWalt’s rough-cutting blade transformed that saw into a top performer. The saws from Bosch and Craftsman feature user-friendly bevel controls and adjustable handles. Cutting problems are most likely on wide boards, because the amount of play decreases as the saw head moves toward the fence.
Both saws achieved this, in part, by dropping the blade deep into the bed of the saw so it cuts closer to its full diameter.
The downside of this design is that during a sliding cut, the teeth on the blade’s back edge rotate directly up into the board. If the board isn’t firmly clamped in place, especially during wide compound miter and bevel cuts, the blade can violently kick it up.
This saw arrived on our loading dock in good shape (some Amazon comments talk about shipping issues) – and needed only minor tweaking to adjust the bevel settings. You can eliminate kick-up on the Ridgid saw by adjusting its depth stop to raise the blade and change the exit angle of the teeth.



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