You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Last fall we invested in some “new” woodworking equipment as our cabinetry sales increased over the year. Once again, Coby of Advanced Machinery was keeping an eye out for a good quality used single-head widebelt sander in the $4K-$7K range. The conveyor belt, which can cost up to $2,000 to replace, had no cracks or tears, and the sanding drums had absolutely no pits or grooves.
But before we were able to hook this machine up and use it, we had to address one issue: how to power the thing! The largest phase convertor we had was a 20HP, which could only run a motor of about 13HP max. So, while the sander was being shipped to us, we were searching for the best deal on phase convertors.
After purchasing the widebelt for $5,000, the phase convertor for $1,700 + $700 shipping, and paying the electrician ~$1,800 to wire everything up, we had a beautiful widebelt sander. The fact that we had to acquire a phase convertor made the initial purchase of the widebelt a bit expensive, but given how easy the machine has made our sanding lives, it has been well worth it! As you can see in the picture, all of the ribbon Sapele veneer on the sides has the grain oriented vertically and the grain of the top is parallel to the longest side. We repeated the veneering process on the base of the table; it was a bit easier since the sides were not as angled as those of the top. It was now time to drill the hole for the decorative metal bar that would be on the top point of the front and back of the base. After the dowels were glued into the base, we turned the top upside down, and attached the two pieces. Jared Patchin started woodworking professionally in 2008 when he set-up J.Alexander Fine Woodworking in Boise, ID, where he builds custom crafted furniture and cabinetry. Original Saw developed these miter saw stands to compliment our OS Series line of  manual measuring systems, and extension roller and flat tables. The stand is constructed of 12 and 14 gage formed steel with a texture powder coat finish on the table top and contrasting smooth gloss black on the legs, come with a 1' thick mdf mounting board that is predrilled to mount to the steel table top.
Prior to installation of the EXAKTOR® Saw Fence & Guide Rails please take the time to read this manual and then familiarize yourself with the parts that are used in its assembly. Constructed from a thick-walled aluminum extrusion with a durable powder-coat finish, the Fence has two T-Slots in its top surface for attaching hold-downs and other shop-built jigs and devices.
The Fence body measures 2A?a€?x 3a€?x 40a€?, the two face panels are A?a€?x 2a…? a€?x 40A?a€? and the T-bar is 16a€? long for alignment against the Front Guide Rail.
The (optional) Table Legs are tubular steel with a powder-coat finish and have adjustable leveling feet. The EXAKTOR® T-slot Saw Fence will make your table saw a precision wood cutting machine designed to meet the needs of the table saw operator who requires a precision saw fence built to hold up in hard working conditions. Manufactured from high quality materials, the EXAKTOR® Saw Fence and Guide Rails are easily installed on most table saws.
The Fence body is a thick-walled, high-strength aluminum extrusion, with a baked-on powder coat finish.
Both sides of the Fence are equipped with hard wearing UHPE plastic panels providing you with a smooth wear resistant surface for sliding wood against the Fence. T-Slots in the top surface of the Fence body provide a secure and versatile way to attach optional accessories and shop-built jigs.
The Fence Locking Handle quickly positions and locks the Fence for cutting on either the right or left side of the saw blade without any dismantling and re-assembly.
Front and rear Guide Rails are fabricated from heavy gauge steel with a baked-on powder coat finish. The saw fence is easily adjusted for parallelism to the saw blade and for squaring to the saw table. The underside of the front Guide Rail can be equipped with optional Work Stops that are easily moved to let you quickly position the Fence to repeat measured cuts accurately. EXAKTOR® Industrial T-Slot Saw Fences have been carefully designed and are manufactured using computer controlled laser cutting and fabrication machinery. The EXAKTOR® Saw Fence system includes the parts for assembly of the Fence, front Guide Rail, front Guide Rail Tube, rear Guide Rail and the Mounting Hardware for attaching the fence system to many different types and styles of table saws. NOTE: If you are installing these new Guide Rails on your table saw you may want to build the required extension table before you remove the old guide rails presently in place on your saw. First determine where the Front Guide Rail will be bolted to the front edge of the saw table. Before bolting on the Rails, check whether the edges of the sawa€™s cast iron extension wings will be straight and parallel with the front and rear edges of the saw table.
Line up the Front Guide Rail in one bolt area at a time making sure that there is clearance behind the edge of the saw table to tighten the nut. The Rear Guide Rail is bolted to the rear edge of the saw table in the same manner as the Front Guide Rail. To allow for the proper clearance of the swing rear-mounted motors on some table saws remove a short section of the Rear Rail. The Front and Rear Guide Rails are 80a€? long and will project beyond the right hand edge of the saw table.
The Rear Guide Rail is bolted to the rear edge of the Extension Table in the same manner as the Front Guide Rail. From underneath the Front Guide Rail (#51), bolt on the Front Guide Tube (#52) using nine A? - 28 x A?a€? Hex Head Bolts (#64) with A?a€? Split Lock Washers (#65) in the predrilled and tapped holes. IMPORTANT: After completing the installation of the Guide Rails check to see that the Front Guide Tube is parallel with the top surface of your table saw. If the Front Guide Rail is not mounted at 90A° to the top of the saw table, or there is a slight distortion in the Front Guide Tube, the Front Guide Tube can be out of alignment.
Rather than being manufactured from parts that are welded together, the EXAKTOR® Saw Fence is assembled using a few machine screws. With the plastic pads on the Squaring Bar facing away from the T-Bracket, use two A?-20xa…?a€? Machine Screws (#12) to attach the Squaring Bar (#4) to the inside of the T-Bracket (#02).


The Yoke (#5) is already assembled with the locking mechanism for installing in the body of the Fence. Inset the assembled Yoke (#05) into the end of the Fence Body (#01) aligning the four threaded holes in the bottom of the Yoke with the four clearance holes in the bottom surface of the Fence.
Use four A?-20x 1A?a€? Machine Screws (#13) inserted through the T-Bracket (#2), the Spacer Block (#3) and the clearance holes in the bottom surface of the Fence, and screw them into the threaded holes in the bottom of the Yoke. Insert two A?-20xA?a€? Machine Screws (#14) through both sides of the Fence Body and screw them into the threaded holes in the sidewalls of the Yoke. The Fence Panels (#30) are manufactured from UHPE, a hardwearing plastic with a smooth surface that will allow the work being pushed through the saw blade to slide easily along the Fence.
Insert eight A?-20 x 1a€? Panel Bolts (#31) through eight Panel Retainers (#32) and thread them part way into the four holes located on each side of the Fence.
With the Panel centered on the Fence, the front side of the Panel has four small access holes that will lineup with the heads of the Panel Bolts.
Using the a…›a€? Allen Key provided, insert it into the access hole and tighten the Panel Bolts to cause the Panel Retainers to secure the Panels to the sides of the Fence.
NOTE: The Panel Bolts allow the operator to adjust the bottom edge of the Fence Panels to touch the top of the saw table.
If you want to make your own fence panels, an (optional) kit consisting of a carbide router bit, four Cone Head Setscrews, eight Panel Screws and Retainers, and a a…›a€? Allen Key, is available.
The two Adjusting Setscrews (#16) in the T-Bracket are used to adjust the body of the Fence relative to the saw blade and miter guide slot.
To check and adjust the Fence, move the Fence until the edge of the Fence is in line with the edge of the miter guide slot, and push down on the Fence Locking Lever. NOTE: Very little movement of the adjusting setscrews is necessary to make this adjustment. Using a try square, adjusting the plastic Grub Screws (#17) will cause the sides of the fence to be square to the top of the saw table. When the Fence Locking Handle is pushed down to the locking position the Fence assembly should be clamped securely to the Guide Tube.
IMPORTANT: After adjusting the clamping action of the Locking Handle, re-check that the Fence is still parallel to the miter gauge slot. Bolts (#26) and Flat Washers (#27) are used to attach the Cursor Plate to the topside of the T-Bracket (#02) on the right side of the Fence. Remove the Fence and thoroughly clean the top surface of the Guide Tube to remove any dust, grease or other dirt. With the Fence on the table saw, positioned on the right side of the saw blade, slide the Fence over until its left side touches the side of the blade. Position the hairline in the Cursor in the center of its range of adjustment and tighten the two button head bolts. Using the ZERO mark as the starting point, measure A?a€? in from the front edge of the Guide Tube and apply the adhesive Measuring Scale. Panels can be made from any A?a€? thick composition material, plywood, or hardwood, the surfaces of which are smooth and even throughout their length. To cover the full length of the side of the fence, the panel is 40A?a€? long by 2a…?a€? in height. Thread the socket end of the cone head set screws into threaded holes in one side of the fence. To mark the position of the access holes on the panels, place the fence upside down on the table saw. He ended up finding the one pictured above, a 30-year-old single-head 37? Timesaver widebelt sander.
Once his technicians gave the machine their approval, we purchased it and had it delivered. Most industrial machines, and all the machines seen in this blog entry, are 3-phase machines. They are run using a phase convertor, which uses single-phase power to generate the 3-phase needed. We veneered each surface individually, which meant that the tabletop took five rounds to complete the veneering. We ordered two 1.5? lengths of 1? diameter solid aluminum bar from a local metal supplier, sanded the pieces with 320 grit paper to give them a brushed look, and eased over all the edges. The space that the two pieces share is pretty tight and did not make for an easy work space. We used a polyurethane glue for this final glue-up because the glue would expand and help fill any small voids that were present inside the top and base.The tape and paper ensured that the expanding polyurethane glue would collect on top of the paper rather than on the veneer’s surface. We removed the tape and paper, scraped off any excess glue, and gave the entire table a final hand sanding with 220 grit paper.
The brownish red of the Sapele work perfectly with the whites, grays, and blues of the living room. If you have questions or if you feel there are parts of this manual that need clarification, you are encouraged to let us know.
The quick-action cam locking lever and convenient squaring and parallel adjustment controls will enable you to set the Fence for accurate cuts every time. Unlike most other commercial grade table saw fences that are constructed from parts that are welded together, the EX100 Fence has been designed and built with all of its components being replaceable in the event of accidental damage, and it is available with easily changed face panels that meet the top surface of the table saw for cutting veneers or laminates, eliminating catching thin materials under the fence body.
There are no fixtures on the sides of the fence body to interfere with work being processed. It must be used with, and does not eliminate the need for, anti-kick-back and splitter devices. When using the EXAKTOR® T-Slot Saw Fence, and before operating the saw, make absolutely sure that no part of the Saw Fence assembly can touch or come in contact with the saw blade at any time whether or not the machine is in operation. This saw fence system is simple to adjust, and is guaranteed to maintain adjustments for maximum accuracy. Alternatively, just the Fence without the Guide Rails can be an upgrade replacement for older or worn-out table saw fences that use a a€?Biesemeyer®, or similar 2a€?x 3a€? square tubular front guide tube. The restrictive type locking ensures that the Fence stays parallel to the saw blade when it is moved, and its positive locking on the front Guide Rail keeps the Fence from moving and shifting out of position without the need for additional clamps.


They are easily installed on most table saws, and can be positioned to the right or left of the saw blade, as required. When moved into position, both ends of the Fence body move the same distance at the same time, with the Fence remaining parallel to the saw blade, or at any lead in relation to the saw blade the user may establish. Using the hole in the Rail as a guide, drill a A?a€? hole in the edge of the saw table, and bolt the Rail to the saw table with a Nut, Washers and Bolt (#60, 61, 62 & 63) before drilling and bolting the next hole.
After removing the Front Guide Tube from the Front Guide Rail, place three or four layers of masking tape along the back edge of the holes in the Front Guide Rail. This allows you to easily replace any part of the Fence that may become damaged, without the necessity of you having to replace the complete Fence.
Accidentally starting the saw while installing or making adjustments to the Fence may result in serious personal injury. If the Fence is not securely clamped to the Guide Tube, lift the Fence assembly up off the Guide Tube.
Leave the Bolts holding the Cursor Plate loose enough so the assembled Cursor can be moved to the left or right. Be careful when laying the scale into position that you maintain the A?a€? measurement from the front edge of the Guide Tube. Apply paste wax to the Fence, Front Guide Tube and Extension Table DAILY for good operation. Insert a a…›a€? Allen Key through the corresponding hole in the opposite side of the fence and adjust the point of the cone head setscrew just proud of the side of the fence. Don’t ask me exactly how it works, but normal residential-type power is single-phase, and industrial-type power, which larger machines need, is 3-phase. Each time, the tabletop spent three hours in the bag, and at least four hours outside the bag to help the glue cure. As the veneer is pressed into the substrate, the air is expelled from the glue joint and a bond is created within an hour or so.
On the drill press we then set up a shim that would drill a 1? hole parallel to the floor. We then took the table into the finishing room and applied a dark brown oil-based stain, two coats of sanding sealer, and a coat of bright-rubbed conversion varnish.
He has developed his craft since then, moving from making wooden swords for himself and his friends to building some of the finest furniture and cabinetry available. This will give smaller shops and schools the option of using our industrial measuring systems and material handling roller and extension tables to set up a stationary cutting station for their favorite miter saw.
The Fence is also available with a pair of 80a€? guide rails that will give you up to 60a€? in rip capacity to retrofit table saws that have a minimum table edge depth of 1A?a€?.
This allows quick replacement of damaged Panels or the attachment of custom jigs or fixtures.
The steel Measuring Scale and its adjustable hair-line Cursor will allow you to accurately position the Saw Fence with different saw blades eliminating wrong cuts and work spoilage. The optional Leg Kit used to support the extension table, and the T-Slot Channel with Work Stops must be ordered separately.
Only three Flat Head Bolts (#60), Flat Washers (#61), Lock Washers (#62) and Nuts (#63) are required to attach the rails to the saw table. Leave a wide enough space to allow clearance for the motor when the blade is moved from 90A° to 45A°. Make it the same depth a€?Ba€? (front to rear) as the saw table and the length a€?Aa€? equal to the length of the Guide Rails that extend beyond the right hand edge of the saw table.
You can easily check to determine if the Fence is parallel along the length of the miter guide slot by running your finger along the edge of the miter guide slot and the Fence. If adjustment is required, lift up the fence Locking Lever and raise the T-Bracket up off the Guide Tube. After each round we spent a few minutes checking the edges of the veneer and re-gluing any places that had not fully adhered. But, for the glue to for a permanent bond, it requires the water to be evaporated, which is impossible since the vacuum bag is air tight and therefore void of air in the first place. Since the faces of the front and back are not vertical, but angled inward about 3 degrees, if we set the back flat on the drill press table, the hole would be drilled at a -6 degree angle to the face and -3 degrees horizontal.
He lives in Boise, Idaho with his wife and two young sons, who have taken over the sword making side of things. This allows for the replacement of damaged face panels or the attachment of shop-built jigs and fixtures. The frame of the table is constructed A?a€?x 2A?a€? clear grained stock with A?a€? Panel (plywood or particle board) and a plastic laminate top. Using the hole in the Rail as a guide, drill a A?a€? hole in the edge of the Extension Table, and bolt the Rail to the Extension Table before drilling and bolting the next hole. Slightly tighten or loosen the two adjusting Setscrews (#16) a€¦ one side INa€¦one side OUT. Replace the Fence assembly onto the Guide Tube and with the Locking Handle pushed down recheck that the Fence Assembly is securely tightened to the Guide Tube. The Fence must be exactly parallel with the blade before the hairline in the Cursor is set. If the width of the material is not exactly 2a€?, reset the Cursor hairline to the width of the cut material, and reposition and lock the Fence with the hairline again at the 2a€? mark. By shimming the piece by .5?, we were able to drill the hole at a -3 degree angle to the face, which translates to horizontal. Replace the T-Bracket on the Guide Tube and check again to see if the edge of the Fence is parallel with the entire length of the miter gauge slot. This may seem to be over-thinking, since only .5? of the bar would be seen, but the details are what matter in custom furniture. Continue this procedure, positioning the Fence and setting the Cursora€™s hairline in this manner until the cut is EXACTLY 2a€?.



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