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Chris Marshall's space saving router table is sure to be a hit with anyone without much floorspace in their workshop. Extended, this router table is full sized, but takes up no more space than your average wall cabinet, with no need for a base. Using Rockler's installation template, rub collars, a spiral bit and pattern bit cut out the router plate. The front, back and side edging (pieces 4 through 6) give the table a sturdy finished edge, but they also help stiffen the MDF core and provide a sturdier substrate for securing the pivot bolts.
Insert a pair in the joint between the back and side edging to help reinforce these joints.
The author chose this fence and T-track kit from Freud to install, this gives you a precise, easy to use fence ready to go on your table.
The holes for the two lag screws were made with a doweling jig, this keeps the table centered and allows it to pivot between stowed and in use. Bore a hole in the right side of your cabinet to allow you to insert the vacuum hose, don't forget to add a slot for your power switch cord at this point also.
Check the spacing of your dividers with your router plate, you should be able to fit it in and out easily without it catching.
You can also install the dividers (pieces 15) after milling a dado along the inside face of each to fit your router plate. When installing your braces and support arms, use a few playing cards as spacers, this will ensure the clearance of the table even as the wood expands.
Follow the layout shown in the Drawings to make the two cabinet support arms (pieces 18) from 1"-thick, dimensionally stable stock. You still have two remaining braces to install, which will complete the support arm slots in the cabinet.
At this point, you can cut and sand the back panel (piece 14) and install it in its rabbets with glue and screws. Rather than doing your final installation on a table, mount your carcass to a temporary wall cleat and fit it as it will be used. It might seem logical to mount the table in the cabinet, then hang the whole works on the wall, but don’t do it like this. Once the table is mounted on the wall to your liking, drive the pivot screws through the holes you drilled earlier to complete the installation. To keep your router table upright and out of the way, install a barrel bolt notching your banding to receive the hardware. Now, pull up a shop stool right where a big ol’ floor-style router table would sit and take a load off.
I would like a set of free plans for the router wall mount cabinet, and also a free catalog.
Could I please have the cut list and material list as well along with any diagrams for this router table? Someone posted something similar previously and it got me to thinking about my own situation. Is there an Ikea near you?They have just changed their kitchen cabinet range, and you can buy a lot of the Los style stuff in their as is section VERY cheap.Their Blum hardwear is very good quality.
My Dad made a rolling base for his Delta Unisaw (excellent table saw) and it basically has 4 casters that can rock up and out of the way or rock down and will support the table saw. Originally Posted By: WheelLee Valley (and others) makes a couple of inserts that can drop into any wood type top. This is a handy way to mount a Jig Saw to cut material on top of the table to create a poor-mans version of the Rockwell BladeRunner. In order to level the insert in the table, eight holes were drilled and tapped along the edge for allen screws. It's probably more a sign of being a contrarian than anything, but just when the Yamaha NS-10 was hitting its peak of popularity I was busy messing around with Dynaudio raw drivers. For better or worse, that was my "monitor" setup for the next decade or so and like anything I eventually got used to the sound and could make fairly good judgements by them. Used systems often come up for sale, though the condition of the drivers is often unknown and the shipping costs are prohibitive. The crossovers are probably the hardest part to find and I was ready to build my own using the schematic given in the widely available instruction manual.
I spent a long time looking for an old particle board table or other piece of furniture with that '80s "Japanned" finish but eventually gave up on the idea of duplicating the look of the original.

I was told by the fellow who sold me the crossovers that the original boxes had a brace with a circular cut-out that went between the woofer and the tweeter holes. After cutting the hole for the tweeter I dropped the tweeter in, lined it up so it was square to the oversized baffle edge and drew the outline with a pencil.
Though both the table saw and router are Ryobi brand none of the holes in the table saw router attachment feature would fit.
However, it was worth the effort as it allowed better control over cutting the rectagular crossover cut-outs from the rear panel of the box. Once all the screw placements had been determined and pilot holes drilled, I sanded the boxes smooth and coated them with a few layers of water based undercoat, sanding between coats.
Using a cheap Malaysian HVLP spray gun, I applied the first coats of British Paints Ritzy Red interior low sheen house paint.
To keep the finish protected, I inserted three of the eight speaker mounting screws to create a tripod on the front baffle as the spraying progressed. Credit to the guy who started this thread for inspiring the color choice and for showing why buying used systems from Ebay probably isn't the best idea.
To make the core, cut the bottom (piece 1) to size, according to the Material List dimensions. Here’s how I did it: I fixed Rockler’s plate installation template to my tabletop with double-faced tape. Mill your edging pieces from hardwood stock, and attach them to the core with pairs of #20 biscuits (pieces 7), spaced evenly around the core. Radius the corners of the front edging on your band saw, sand these curves to refine them, and glue and clamp all the edging in place.
Notice that each cabinet component with a “show” edge (pieces 10 through 13, 15 and 16) will receive a strip of solid-wood banding (piece 17) to hide the plys.
I plowed these dadoes using a shop-made, slotted jig that clamps in place and guides my router and 1" O.D. Start by gluing and brad-nailing two braces (pieces 16) to the side panels, just below the support shelf dadoes.
Ease the part edges, and slide the arms into place in the cabinet next to the braces you’ve already installed. Again, you’ll want to provide a bit of side-to-side clearspace between the braces and support arms.
At this point, give the cabinet a thorough sanding up through the grits to 180 while the back panel is still off. When that second wind hits, just plunk your router into place and you’ll be ready to give your new drop-down table a workout! Once Dynaudio Acoustics entered the "pro" market I was on to the next thing ;) But after reading the SOS article on the NS-10 I thought I should find out what I was missing a couple of decades ago.
Even though the NS-10 was discontinued a decade ago, parts are available regularly on Ebay. However, I noticed that detailed information on the inductors wasn't given, nor were any measurements available on the internet.
Keep in mind that the diameters listed are for the flanges; internal diameter measurements would be impossible without unwinding the coil. I decided to go with medium density fiberboard rather than particle board mainly for ease of finishing; MDF isn't nearly as thirsty as unfinished particle board and a smooth finish is easier to achieve.
I believe this allows the voice coils to come into closer alignment with respect to the listener.
I drilled the appropriate positions and used a counter-sink bit to allow the screws to sit flush.
I advise, as with the baffle, that you cut the hole before installing the rear panel to the box.
The can advised 100ml of water per liter to thin, but this was far too little to ensure it would spray from my home handyman tool, so I just kept adding water until it reached the correct consistency to spray properly. Once the final coat had dried, I mounted the crossover, stuffed the box with some glass fiber and soldered the drivers to the correct wires shown earlier. Floor space was so cramped that there was hardly room for a bench, the table saw and me, let alone other stationary tools. Slip the dividers into position, and drive screws down through the subtop and up through the divider shelf to secure them.
I inserted three playing cards on each side of the arms at both the front and back cabinet openings to act as spacers. Cut a power switch mounting plate (piece 21 from spare solid stock, and attach it to the right side of the cabinet with counterbored screws. The other day I pulled it out, hearing for the umpteenth time one leg dragging on the uneven concrete floor, making a very loud screech.
Rather than pay for shipping a particle board box with questionable drivers, I decided to buy new parts and build the simple sealed box myself.

Far from perfect, but cleaning it up with a straight X-Acto style blade made it look a little bit more acceptable. That way, if you have a problem you can cut a new piece without having to remove it from the box first. While my picture shows the closest spaced pair of holes furthest from the right hand edge, the closest ones should be nearest to the right hand edge. I can appreciate the midrange detail and how it makes my mixes sound as crap as they actually are. It features a full-size 24" x 32" laminated tabletop that rests on a pair of removable support arms during use.
Using a flush-trim bit with the bearing riding on the bottom core, trim the top core to match it. I routed dado slots for 10" lengths of T-tracks, squared up the ends and mounted the tracks with screws.
An undersized, plywood-cutting straight bit fit my plywood thickness perfectly for milling these dadoes. Glue and clamp the subtop, divider and support shelves and bottom panel between the side panels, reinforcing each of these joints with counterbored flathead wood screws.
With the dividers done, prepare a piece of solid stock for the top (piece 9) and drive counterbored screws up though the subtop to attach it.
If you’re building this project during the winter, allow a little more room by taking a few shavings off the bottom edges of the support arms at the jointer. Slide the inner braces into place, and attach them to the support shelf and bottom with counterbored screws. Locate the two closest wall studs to your installation spot, and screw a long cleat temporarily to them to support the cabinet bottom.
I've always wanted to integrate a router table into one of the extension tables and both are in bad needs of new tops.
Now, cover both faces with oversized pieces of plastic laminate (pieces 3) and rout them flush. Once summer rolls around, the arms may expand across the grain, and you don’t want them to fit too tightly at that time.
Not much for looks, but it worked, and equally important, it flipped up to stay off that tiny floor.
Even your router and plate have a dedicated storage spot: they slide into a pair of dadoes between the shelf dividers. Now, tip the cabinet into position on the cleat, extend the pilot holes into the wall studs, and sink the lag screws and washers. I built a plan from ShopNotes and it was certainly an improvement over the stationary metal stand that came with the saw.
I souped mine up with Freud’s SH-5 Fence so I’d have dust collection and micro-adjust features. Carefully set the bit depth to match the thickness of the router plate, and test the cut on a piece of scrap. The pivot mechanism that enables you to raise it onto wheels doesn't keep the force in a vertical line, which won't work well over time, heat & humidity.
Once the correct depth is dialed in, rout around the inside of the plate template to finish up the cutout. My fence mounts on T-tracks, but bolts run through long slots in the table or a series of holes would work, too. The entire top needs to be in the same horizontal plane for accuracy and that's tough to do without supports. You don’t even have to remove the fence to close the table up; just slide it back, lock it in place, and it tips right into a cabinet cubby.
It's dead flat, easily machineable, I can write on it, the white color makes things easily noticed. One of the fixed bases stays attached to the insert plate of the current router table, so I just slide in the motor when needed. I'm currently using BB ply glued to MDF, with both sides covered in Formica to keep it flat. I thought of using neodymium magnets and steel cups to hold it fast, yet allow it to be removable to save space. Another reason to ignite this project is to build some nice garage cabinets with a work surface below and big sliding drawers underneath so I don't have to get on my hands & knees! I watched a Norm Abram show where he built new fixtures for the NYW and he went with all drawers on 100# slides.

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Comments to «Table saw mounted router table»

  1. wise writes:
    Many various brands, styles, tools lock.
  2. KENAN18 writes:
    TTI comes with a full selection of bits.
  3. BRIQADIR writes:
    Program is estimated to collect will want to put into disassembling your pallet, as newer pallets will.

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