Most recent blog updates coming out of our workshop have been over on the Woodblock Roundtable side of things - I'm part way through a marathon batch of 50 cases for the 'Arts of Japan' print set, and that is of course eating all the time. But I ran into a small glitch in that work yesterday; I was dressing a stack of case 'tops' to size when my table saw developed a strange noise, and then a strange wobble in the blade.
But even running it without a blade produced the same noise, so there was nothing for it but to remove the top and have a look at the guts. But although I couldn't continue with work on the cases yesterday, I certainly didn't waste my time.
An interesting challenge, to build the jigs to manufacture such a thing on your router table! But the arbor is where the problem will come - it's 20mm, (standard for table saws in Japan). I suppose the Mokuhankan Tool Set is on hold until the orders for Ukio-e Heroes are covered.
I have a Grizzly 3 HP cabinet saw, with a large door on one side, for clearing out the cabinet. I know that there are a lot of thin stick-cut offs in the cabinet, along with lots of sawdust, some of which I'm allergic to.
With these all, I'll be making coffee tables and other living room furniture from exotic veneers and solid exotics. Buy a real long extended blow gun---use that to keep the inside clean---The biggie with a tablesaw is keeping the top slick---I use a product called --slip-it---it's a nonsilicon surface treatment that does a great job on machinery tops. Nothing is the world wrong with buying Grizzly---I bought the wife one of thier bandsaws last year and have been very happy with it. If you are buying a Grizz bandsaw (which is fine) PLEASE opt for the biggest motor you can afford. If you are looking at the 17" Grizzly, try to get the one with the 5hp motor, you will NOT be disappointed. One of the reasons is that a higher power bandsaw will help your blades last longer--- the reason being heat. A wimp motor will bog down easily and build up a lot of heat on the blade--- -they way heat dissipates on a bandsaw is "chip removal"--- literally, (to a great degree) the rate of which the sawdust is cut and removed will also determine how quickly the blade cools from the friction.
Ask anyone who runs a CNC router like they are supposed to---- running the router bits too slow will quickly heat them up and ruin the carbide.

As for Gary's idea, I'd have to move my compressor back out into my outside shop and the blow gun would help, but the main problem is the longer slivers, that kept falling through my plate, before I bought a zero clearance plate. Keeping a table saw in top-notch condition isn’t difficult, it just takes a bit of regular maintenance including cleaning, inspection, replacement of worn parts, alignment and fine tuning.
Order your copy of Power Tool Maintenance for more great tool maintenance tips, PLUS complete step-by-step video instructions of how to! To keep your miter gauge crosscutting accurately, there are several checks and adjustments you’ll need to make.
A lower-tech way of checking parallel is to clamp a scrap wood stick to a miter gauge set for a square cut. On most cabinet style saws, this job is accomplished by rotating the entire table top relative to the saw’s base.
Finally, check the angle stops on the miter gauge head by taking cuts and 90 and 45 degrees, and comparing the cut ends as you did when adjusting the blade tilt angle stops, described above. One of the most important things to do to maintain the cutting safety and accuracy of your table saw is to make sure the rip fence is basically parallel to the blade. If your table saw has a cursor and scale on the front rail, position the fence bar so that its face lightly touches the saw blade teeth and lock it down. This interactive DVD-ROM will show you the fundamental maintenance procedures for seven major woodworking power tools: the table saw, jointer, drill press, dust collector, air compressor, pneumatic nailer and even a moisture meter. I guess when I built this saw around 25 years ago, I couldn't find a pulley of the size I wanted, so made one myself. The exact diameter isn't all that important, as it's just a plain-jane table saw, and the particular speed of the blade won't really matter. The revenue now starting to come in from the Heroes project is going to make a whole lot of things possible - things that were just getting shunted aside because I had neither the time to do it myself, nor the money to hire somebody else to do it.
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It’s also prudent to go through most of these procedures on a brand-new saw right after you assemble it. The first step is to make sure that the bar on your miter gauge fits snugly, yet slides smoothly in the table slot. In either case, loosen the necessary bolts and shift the position of the trunnions or top slightly, then retighten the bolts and recheck the parallelism of the slots and blade.

Readjust the screws on these stops as necessary so that they yield accurate cuts (Photo 4). A fence set with its back end closer to the blade than the front end tends to pinch the workpiece against the saw blade, which can result in a dangerous kickback. The wooden bar running from the motor to the front panel is the clutch - pushing that down lifts the handle on the motor, engaging the drive pulley. You'll have full access to all of our content, be able to enter our contests, find local chapters near you, and post your questions and share your experience with our members all over the world.Membership is completely free!!If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. I also used a Laguna 20"(ish) bandsaw that would power through anything and not bat an eye at it.
Some miter bars have special inserts that can be adjusted in or out with a small Allen wrench (Photo 1).
With the Grizzly we have to change them much more frequently and we don't use them as much as the other shop used the Laguna. A well-tuned machine is a pleasure to use, while a poorly maintained one is at best inaccurate and a pain to use and at worst can cause a serious accident. If your gauge lacks this feature, you can replace the bar with an aftermarket steel bar that has adjustable spring plungers that keep the bar tight in the slot. Measure any resulting gap between the blade and stick with an automotive feeler gauge (Photo 3). If the setting isn’t right, loosen the screws or bolts that secure your rip fences bar (Photo 5) to the fitting on the front rail and reposition the bar as necessary. These specialized tools accurately fit into the saw’s miter slot and use a dial indicator to take readings on the front and rear surfaces of the blade body. If the dial shows a different reading front to back, then the slot is likely not parallel to the blade.

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Comments to «Table saw maintenance video»

  1. Legioner writes:
    Horizontal hole, despite the fact that.
  2. Hellaback_Girl writes:
    The Wave is deemed a complete-size tool but, for the sake of basics, this gives a general groundwork.
  3. farida writes:
    Very best to preserve your the.
  4. ALFONSO writes:
    Clamp down the material you are cutting and wait for site and e-mail.

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