ThomasMaloney writes: If the Japanese are asking this guy for doors and other frame units, then he's gotta be pretty wonderful at what he does! TayHubDad writes: I was fascinated by his skills and also have been learning the techniques used in Japan. Follow Fine Woodworking senior editor Jon Binzen as he travels North America in search of the best woodworkers on the continent.
January 5, 2015 by Zack Whether you need a general shop crane or an engine hoist for your garage, the 1 Ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane (Item #: 69512) gives you the power and convenience you need in a lifting tool. When it’s in use, this shop crane is the center of attention in any shop or garage, handling the heavy lifting with ease. This Harbor Freight favorite is a great general-purpose drill; home use, furniture building, etc. The legendary Pittsburgh 22-piece combination wrench set from Harbor Freight includes 11 of the most widely used SAE wrench sizes and 11 of the most popular metric sizes to accommodate almost any wrenching moment. This hoist lifts loads up to 10 feet high easily, thanks to its sturdy, hardened steel chain. Powered with a reliable Predator engine, this portable generator is ideal for emergencies, job-site use, recreation, family reunions, heating and cooling. So, take some time and check out these and other tremendous Father’s Day deals at Harbor Freight Tools.
This powerful shop crane delivers the lifting power you need to easily hoist engines and transmissions, move heavy machinery and load equipment. September 20, 2012 by Dave Welcome to the third installment of the Harbor Freight Tools 1967 Firebird Restoration Project. In Part 1, we were given a tour of the original vehicle, inside and out, and presented Jeff’s challenge. This time we follow Jeff as he lifts the engine, using a 2-Ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane. This brute lifter mounts to your truck bed– or other solid base– swivels 360 degrees and can lift up to 1,000 lbs! A common modification is to switch out the manual winch with an electric one, such as the Badlands 12-Volt 2,000 lb.
Whatever your load, the Central Hydraulics Pickup Truck Crane at Harbor Freight will make your life a whole lot easier. Working in the garage is always therapeutic—until you find yourself with a three-person job, and the only guy who answers to you is… you. It’s got your back (literally) when you’re trying to single-handedly lift, load or unload heavy objects.
July 17, 2012 by Dave Once again, we see how Harbor Freight is a favorite toy store for tool heads. Recently on The Garage Journal forum, a member wrote how his boss gave him a $200 Harbor Freight gift card for his birthday, and asked what he should get with it. It reminded me of when my Aunt Anita sent me $5 and the guys were all telling me how to blow it (“Hot Wheels!” “GI Joe!” “Silly Putty!”). June 20, 2012 by Dave It’s funny how, as you get older, you start doing all the cool stuff you wanted to do when you were a punk teenager.
Classic car restoration is more popular than ever, and with the help of online parts stores, chat forums and YouTube videos, guys who thought they’d never get to rebuild their favorite classic rides are now living in their garages (and on their lawns), doing just that. The Air Compressor will quickly become your best friend over the course of your restoration.
A Compression Tester will help diagnose vital motor issues, such as worn piston rings, burnt valves and bad head gaskets.  This is a great first tool to use when you get your new project car home. You can even take it with you to test a car before you buy it! While it’s not vital for the project, you may want to consider picking up a “cherry-picker” Engine Hoist, especially if you’re planning to restore more than one vehicle.
Piston Ring Pliers will help you remove and replace the rings on the pistons without breaking them. A Dial Indicator is used to measure run-out on things like the flywheel, and endplay on the crankshaft.
Next, a Stud Puller is a must for removing stripped, rusted and otherwise stubborn head studs, as well as exhaust & intake manifold studs. A Step Drill is essential to make quick, clean work out of drilling large diameter holes for auto-body jobs such as installing chrome trim, and for firewall holes.
A Spot Weld Cutter works great in restoration projects and does just what its name implies. As you work on your project, you’ll find a Bench Grinder and Drill Press are extremely helpful in the auto restoration process.  Plus, a Wire Wheel on the grinder is a must and makes cleaning up parts quick and simple. Finally, get a Creeper, Paint Stripper, Transmission Jack, Dent Repair Kit, and a Comprehensive Mechanics Tool Kit, and you’ll be equipped to tackle most everything involved in your car restoration, as well as many other future projects. Sharp drill bits are helpful in getting the best from the minilathe as well as the drill press, mill-drill, and even a hand drill. My interest in building a drill sharpening jig arose from reading that four facet drill geometry improves overall drill performance. My understanding of drill point geometry and drill sharpening improved considerably from reading Mazoff's article and especially from using the HoneDrill fixture. Joseph Mazoff's article on drill point geometry suggests conical drill sharpening is easy to do but conical drills don't perform as well as faceted drills and that most drills sold in the US have excessive relief.
Sharpening drill bits by hand on a bench grinder is often cited as a skill which all "real machinists" should develop (frequently followed by a dissertation on proper technique and wrist motion). My approach to achieving sharp drills evolved as I went along (learning about drill geometry and building sharpeners). Building and using the Four Facet and HoneDrill sharpeners along with the Pit Bull provides a practical education in drill sharpening. The clever thing about the pin vise for the Four Facet Sharpener is that it is rectangular. The article indicates that slitting the collets is the trickiest part of building the unit so I made the collets first - if I couldn't make the collets there would be no need for the tool block. I made the main tool block from scrap aluminum rather than (1x1.5x2) steel as called for in the article (if it wears rapidly I'll make one from steel or HDPE).
This sharpener is much simpler to use than the HoneDrill and does a fine job sharpening small drills.
An optical aid to accurately align the flutes vertically is helpful for the tiny drills sharpened in this fixture. Small drills can be tricky to use because they break easily if too much axial force is applied; a Sensitive Drill attachment can be helpful because it makes it easier to peck drill and easier to judge the applied force.
I purchased the raw material that I didn't have on hand at a local machine shop for $2 and away I went. The movable part of my fence is HMWP, a plastic nearly as slippery and abrasion resistant as Teflon - it remains to be seen how well it holds up in practice with an abrasive stone rubbing on it; so far it seems OK. If I were to build it again I would make the bottom quadrant long enough to go the length and include the hole for the pivot bolt, then bolt the main block (59A° angle), shortened slightly, to it - seems like it would be easier to machine that way. The first drill I sharpened was the #2 center drill shown in the picture at the top of this page. I used the HoneDrill to sharpen a very worn split point "F" drill using four facets - not commonly done but it seemed like an interesting thing to try. As an experiment I used the HoneDrill to add "Secondary Point Angles" as shown in Figure 4 of the article on drill point geometry. I had read about adjusting drills for use on brass and plastic but didn't understand how to do it accurately. The HoneDrill plans call for a pin vise with locating pins to index small drills for sharpening. The inexpensive Pit Bull type drill sharpener (sold by Craftsman, General and Draper among others) is crudely adapted from a 1913 design by L.A. I read on the net (can't recall where) that the grind marks on drills should be perpendicular to the cutting lip. Setting up to use this sharpener isn't as obvious as one might expect, given its apparent simplicity. The vertical alignment function of the Pit Bull doesn't work well enough to be trusted in my opinion, especially for smaller drills.
Using the HoneDrill, a primary facet was added to some drills previously sharpened with the old Pit Bull setup rather than resharpening on the new setup. Van Royen's 1913 design (dwg at right) for a conical drill sharpener is available as a kit from Hemingway or via Duplex's construction article in "Model Engineer" beginning November 1951 and repeated beginning November 1963. An implementation of Oakes design for small drills (includes plans), no inclination to the axis (fixed axis offset since diameter range is small). The Potts sharpener follows the original Van Royen design closely while the Pit Bull appears to be a simplified version. I considered building the Duplex design but decided against it because it handles only 118A° point angle.
A member of our CTHSM group found a Delta 1296 at a flea market and loaned it to me for evaluation. The Delta unit seems to implement the Van Royen concept accurately except that the offset for drill size is done manually rather than via a built in caliper: the left jaw of the V block is movable via a knob and a scale is provided to set drill diameter. To sharpen a drill, advance the drill toward the wheel while rocking the drill point past the wheel with the ball handle once for each thou advanced. Four facet drill sharpening takes advantage of the fact that the drill's cutting lips are parallel to a line through the center of the drill face and extend in front of this center line; in the drawing at right this area is blue.
This sharpener holds the drill so the facet separation line at the center of the drill's face is on the trunnion table's pivot line (see SketchUp drawing). Traversing the drill past the wheel grinds it at the wheel's plane of rotation, forming one facet. Infeed moves the drill along its axis relative to the trunnion line to allow grinding more material from the drill (on planes parallel to the previously ground facets). It is possible to sharpen drills using the 4 facet method on most any cutter grinder, including the Brooks, but it tends to be slow and awkward. The picture at right shows initial testing using the Brooks wheel and traverse but eventually it became a stand-alone unit with its own motor and simple traverse. A 3.5" diamond or CBN taper cup is needed for this design since they hold their shape for long periods. With this 4 facet sharpener it is easy to set (or measure) the relief angle to be ground, no need to estimate relief angle based on chisel angle as commonly done with conical or cam driven sharpeners. An eccentric was added and calibrated to allow setting the primary relief angle easily by tilting the trunnion table. Note the slight curve in the junction between primary and secondary facets; this is because the (free) motor I used has a rubber mount so it moves away from the drill slightly when grinding the widest part of the secondary relief facet. Minimum drill extension from the collet is set by the clearance required between wheel and ER-20 collet chuck while grinding the secondary clearance (tilting table at 28 degrees). The primary relief for four facet drills is selected based on drill size from this simple chart (adapted from Moltrecht).
Four and six facet drill points work well (better than conical points in my shop) but they aren't commonly available commercially because it takes multiple passes on a grinder to produce them. At right is the optional jig used to align the drill lips horizontal and set the initial infeed position. A minor issue when sharpening quick change drills which have a hex base: the collet nut must be removed and the drill inserted from the back of the collet - takes a little longer but works well.
Split points dramatically reduce thrust required for drilling and reduce drift on deep holes. The split point produced may be adjusted considerably via: rotation angle, infeed, and point width.
I researched and tinkered with building drill sharpeners for over 5 years prior to building this sharpener. Most of the thrust required for drilling with a chisel point drill is used to extrude material in front of the chisel since the chisel can't cut.
Drilling a hole to accurate size is best done by drilling one size under and then removing the small amount of material remaining with the final size drill. Soft plastics like Delrin, nylon, HDPE also cut too well, similar to brass, so the same methods are helpful. Brittle plastic like Lucite, according to Mazoff, benefits from a drill point over 140 degrees to minimize auguring and breakage of the plastic. A pin is gripped in the collet and then the chuck holder assembly is held vertically in a vise by gripping this pin as shown.
I replaced the motor with a HF 94071; seems OK, the ball bearings work better than the plain bearing in my original motor. Builders who opt for this motor would normally skip all this, remove the feet and bolt the motor to a small plate to allow adjusting the wheel position vs the trunnion line (the switch would be on the left side). I occasionally visit a small local machine shop where they tolerate me and sell or give me bits of material needed for my projects. Based on my description of building this 4 Facet Sharpener and the article in HSM I hear from others who would like to build one. Jim Schroeder is a talented and energetic machinist, having completed a Brooks cutter grinder and now a 4 facet drill sharpener. I met Rodger Young at Cabin Fever 2012 where I displayed and demonstrated my 4 facet sharpener.
Robert Simpson used a Grizzly 6" bench grinder for power; construction is welded rather than bolted together.
Mark Frazier used the small Harbor Freight grinder for power; construction is mostly aluminum with brass accents. Ron Behrmann is in South Africa (no Harbor Freight there) so he used a different grinder for power.


In this version the grinder is fixed to the base plate and the platform holding the trunnion table is moved toward or away from the grinder to align the trunnion table's pivot to the wheel. Here the grinder is fixed to a wood base and the trunnion table is raised to the wheel's center height. A sensitive drill attachment facilitates drilling with tiny drills, where the loss of "feel" using a drill press or a tailstock handwheel often leads to broken bits. Plans for this sensitive drill are found in the Photos section of the Yahoo 7x12 Group as "Sandy's Micro-Sensitive Drill Chuck". I built this from scrap so it was necessary to take some liberties with the design, plus some minor changes would make it easier to build with the tooling I have available. For those who would like to build but don't want to reference the plan on Yahoo, here is some build info (see picture above). Make a flat key from brass to fit the slot in the body, shaping it with a file so it projects into the slot in the arbor but shallow enough so it doesn't hit the spring.
Chris Heapy's site disappeared shortly after I built this unit so the link above goes to the Web.Archive.
Created by Daniel Holden, Plans4Boats is one of the most popular boats plans packages online in these days.
On this Plans4Boats Review we are going to take a look at this product and see what are the pros and cons of this package. Created by Daniel Holden, a DIY boat building specialist who has been building different boats for over 20 years, Plans 4 boats is a complete package that contains more than 250 plans and projects of small boats for oar, sail, and motor. With the assistance of his package, Daniel Holden promises that boat fans will study the fundamentals of making a boat, the equipment needed, the materials required and all other vital elements in creating their very own boat.
However, with so many boat plans and projects packages on the market at the moment is this product any different than all the others?
To answer this question let’s talk about a few of the advantages and disadvantages of the Plans4boats product.
The directions in Plans4Boats are very simple to follow and all you are required to do is choose which sort of boat you want to build up from the list, get the materials listed in the guidebook and then start to assemble the boat. Plans4Boats is likely one of the biggest boats plans and projects database accessible anywhere. In his product Daniel Holden added some bonus items that will help you get going along with your boat project.
The 3D Boat Design Software can also be very helpful and can save a lot of money on similar programs. The Plans 4 Boats package comes with full 2 months money back guarantee and if you’re not totally glad with the outcomes, you will get your money back. The Plans4Boats product includes so much content and because of this some of the files are very big and folks that have slow internet connection may find it quite annoying to wait about half-hour to download some of the bigger files. Nonetheless, the good thing is that Daniel Holden offers you the choice of getting the DVD set of Plans 4 boats as a substitute of downloading all of the files (you will need to pay a little more for this feature). For more details about this digital product and to find how you can get the complete package for the lowest price on the internet check the complete review on review on Plans4Boats. Easily adjustable, smoothly maneuverable, and a breeze to use, this shop crane from Harbor Freight Tools is a must-have for anyone lifting heavy equipment up to 2,000 lbs.
Smooth-rolling double bearing casters let you get the tool into the best location for the job, no matter if it’s in the shop, the driveway, or the backyard.
Fully polished, they’re made of chrome vanadium steel and a chrome plate finish for added durability, and come with an organized portable storage rack for quick access. This lightweight grinder is powerful and easy to operate while he’s cutting or shaping a brick walkway, cutting steel bolts, rebar, masonry, plaster, copper or galvanized pipe. The generator features a 420cc air-cooled OHV gas engine, a low oil indicator, UL-listed circuit breaker and 11 hours run-time at 50% capacity. And when you give your gift to your dad, mention something about those childhood memories, and thank him. Breaking it down phase by phase, we’re comparing the prices of tools used in the project with similar (if not exact) products that the competitors advertise. And when you’re done, it just folds vertically up against the wall or in a corner, taking up very little space. Heavy-duty casters enable you to move the engine around easily and smoothly, and its four adjustable arms allow you to easily mount the engine. Somehow, they managed to have the tools and supplies it took to keep their wheels “cherry.” Nowadays, though, when you hear (and feel) a carb-powered 426 Hemi thundering down the road, it’s a geezer you’re more likely to see behind the wheel than a punk. It’s the first thing you’ll need to get for your arsenal. Between the Die Grinder, Paint Sprayer and Impact Wrench, you’re going to get a lot of use out of it and, believe me, you’ll thank yourself every time you’ve got a big chore that you don’t have to do manually. A good 2-Ton Shop Crane should be sufficient, and will more than pay for itself in the long run. A cylinder bore gauge is needed to check for taper, out-of-round and oversize on the cylinders if you are rebuilding the motor yourself. While there are various types of mounts, including magnetic base and screw mounts, I recommend the clamping mount because it’s faster and easier to work with. This one, made by Pittsburgh, probably has the best price you’re going to find, and one look at the customer reviews should convince you there’s no need to keep looking.
Of course, you’ll inevitably be needing cleaners, sealants, lubricants and the odd part along the way, but consider yourself the proud owner of an equipped auto restoration garage.
Four facet geometry: reduces wander at startup, needs less pressure for drilling, generates less heat, and wears more slowly. Adjusting and using this fixture is effectively a mini-tutorial on drills and their geometry. The pictures are interesting and show some advanced geometries not often found in the typical home shop. This makes it easy to get both sides of a drill aligned the same: simply flip the vise over. The article recommends angles of 10A° and 25A° for the sides; these angles set the relief angles for the facets. The pin vise should be a shake free fit in the slots so make any minor adjustments needed to achieve this. The magnifier in this fixture incorporates a line to help judge when the flutes are vertical.
1961) looked to be flexible enough to allow a little experimenting with drill geometry and seemed easy to build. I marked it out, milled the inside to the lines (a coordination exercise on the mill handles), then used a Woodruff cutter to finish the feet that engage the slots in the V block. I used only two screws to secure the quadrant to the fence and one of the screws holds the hinge pin. The quadrant for the fence should be on the right, at least for right handed users (I changed it since taking the pictures). The HoneDrill does this nicely, just set the relief angle to zero or 1A° and add a primary facet; the low angle reduces self-feeding, the cause of grabbing in brass and similar material.
I chamfered two diagonal corners slightly to fit; this has the happy effect of only allowing the vise to fit in two orientations, similar to the constraint imposed by the rectangular shape of the pin vise in the Four Facet Sharpener.
This because grind marks parallel to the cutting lip encourage bending at a grind mark near the lip resulting in fatigue failure which shows up as missing sections of the lip. This is secured on top of the pad for the Tinker using a socket head bolt with a nut embedded in the bottom of the earlier pad. The pivot axis is inclined toward the wheel (see picture above) so its base must be oriented perpendicular to the side of the wheel as shown. Click Hemingway's drawing for a picture of what looks to be an original Potts, possibly from the 1920's. This sharpener is reasonably easy to build and works well so in July 2011 I submitted an article to HSM magazine; it is the cover article for January 2012 - part 2 is in the next [March 2012] issue. The design shown here makes it easy to judge progress - the chuck holder simply lifts off of its locating pins.
As shown here it uses collets from the Honedrill but these were replaced with ER-20 collets+chuck for improved concentricity. Truing an alox wheel would remove a couple thou requiring realignment of wheel to sharpener -- which takes several minutes. A rigid mount and a ball bearing motor could eliminate this but it doesn't affect the way the drills cut so again simplicity and cost carried the day. The smallest collet that will accommodate the drill is found by trying it in the collets, then the relief angle is found in the chart based on collet size.
Based on the Mazoff article I built a version to produce a "modified split point", similar to DIN 1412 C. Purchased split point drills generally have a thicker web (25-40% of drill diameter) than normal drills; this makes them stronger but would need increased thrust to extrude the material in front of the web. Point splitting is a special method of web thinning that extends the cutting lips almost to the center of the drill face. This can cause the drill to "catch" on the wheel and break so it isn't a viable way to sharpen small drills. Should the tips snap off they can be re-sharpened to resemble a spotting drill (but with 4 facets) -- and are much less fragile than they were originally.
Using a drill with SPAs works well for the final pass, cutting to size and leaving an almost reamed finish. Brass simply drills too well - the flutes can augur into the work until they can't cut or the drill breaks. Plastics are prone to having the point of the drill break through and then the outer part of the hole catches the lips and the drill augurs in. Thermoplastics like Lucite benefit from reduced RPM plus lubricant or coolant to avoid melting while drilling. This section will cover changes made since publication of the HSM article, some inspired by feedback from builders.
Several helpful comments were received plus one issue surfaced concerning calibrating the 180A° rotation. It is clearly more powerful -- grinds faster but makes a little more noise because it's higher speed. However, in replacing my original motor the minimum work approach was to place the new motor so the wheel has the same relation to the motion control as it had with the original motor.
This plate would be bolted to the base with slots to allow adjusting position vs the wheel. This magnifies the effect of any slight bend in the drill and any minor error in how the collet grips the drill. I try to answer questions that arise and aren't covered by my article or the above description and generally stay in touch with other builders, some of whom keep me abreast of their progress.The pictures illustrate variations on the original design, where the underlying concept is preserved.
The trunnion support is higher so the drill's axis can point up and to the right for better visibility while sharpening. It is different in principle from the Pit Bull in that it uses a cam to guide the bit across the wheel circumference in a complex motion. I roughly followed those plans but shortened the outer body to 2" and used a washer between the knurled ring and the chuck.
In the interim while Chris's site is down, I will send the DXF file I got from Chris's site if you can't get it from the above link - it is helpful to have the dimensions, saves effort thinking and experimenting.
There are also expert advice and quick tips in the plans and they’re going to keep you on track and show you how to avoid costly mistakes throughout construction. In this database you can find detailed plans and diagrams along with colour pictures and examples on many forms of boats. Most people will find the Boat Builders Handbook, which is a very comprehensive guidebook that has many tips and tricks to be very helpful for them. If you select to order the DVD of Plans4Boats all you need to do is to insert the DVD into the computer and that’s it. Since 1980, when he saw traditional teahouse builder Makoto Imai give a demonstration in California, Swensson has been immersed in Japanese woodworking. Even if you pride yourself on your own personal strength and powerlifting abilities, no one will think less of you for having a reliable lifting tool for some occasional assistance.
And when the job is done, the crane folds away for even easier storage so it’s out of the way until you need it again.
There is a wide array of lifting, hoisting, and pulling jobs this crane can handle safely and efficiently. He was the soft touch when it was time to go to bed, but you needed just a little more TV time… and when you went to bed, he could throw you up in the air like you were flying! This high performance cordless drill driver has 21 torque clutch settings to handle a variety of chores around the house and garage.
Non-marring casters allows for smooth mobility while the 360 degree swivel seat and one-hand height adjustment lever let Dad get into the perfect position for whatever he’s doing. This wrench set is great for everything from around the house to auto work– even working on trucks, trailers, tractors and farm equipment! SAE-metric tap & die set, of course! Thread and bore taps like a pro with this tap and die set! With a heavy-duty steel roll cage for protection, this is the ideal portable generator for powering countless electronics, appliances and tools!
You can even have it sent directly to him if you order online; just enter his mailing information on the Shipping Address page. The competitors I chose were Craftsman, Northern Tool, Home Depot, Lowe’s and Grainger.
Made of heavy-duty steel, Harbor Freight’s rock solid and sturdy shop crane is an invaluable, cost-effective addition to the garage.
It needs to have a decent enough CFM—at least 5-6 CFM per minute at 90 psi– so that the long bursts of sanding, buffing or cutting won’t wear too hard on the compressor.


Plus, it allows experimenting with relief angles, easily allowing four facet and six facet sharpening of drills, for example.
A drill chuck was clamped on this end and used as a handle to move the split sleeve in and out while inserting and removing collets.
The vise is rectangular to ensure it only fits in the correct orientations; I left the vise square until the side plates were added, then trimmed the vise with the fly cutter and made final adjustments on the bench sander.
The clamp's top was milled at 45A° on each side and then I cheated and used a file to complete it.
Rather than Allen screws I used flathead screws to secure the fence and main block to the base.
It would be useful if this quadrant allowed more inclination away from the main block (an easy mod); this would make it easier to hone the end teeth on slot drills with a narrow India stone.
Van Royen's design was the basis for the Potts jig which was refined somewhat by Duplex in "Model Engineer".
I had set my Pit Bull up per the pictures in Duplex's article which show the bit touching at 9 o'clock on the wheel; this results in grind marks parallel to the lip.
The little piece on the front that is moved up to orient the lips perpendicular is not precisely made (and the bit may rotate slightly when advanced) so it is better to use a square to get the lower lip exactly perpendicular.
A PDF by Joerg Hugel (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology) containing a mathematical analysis of conical jigs was available on the net but has apparently disappeared; his analysis showed the Potts design produces excellent points while drill points from the Pit Bull design were less than ideal. I haven't seen the Atlas or Kalamazoo units but the caliper for axis offset used in the Potts isn't apparent so they are likely a different simplification of the Van Royen concept. To rotate the drill to do the other lip you first back the drill away from the wheel exactly one turn (it is marked) using the thimble. The article describes construction of the motion control which can be used with various grinders, as illustrated below. And, the primary and secondary facets meet automatically at the center of the drill when the jig is properly aligned, unlike the procedure in the above link. A separate jig is used to align the lips horizontal, then chuck holder and chuck are transferred to the trunnion table where the chuck holder's locating pins engage the table. My prototype point splitter provides reasonable results considering my wheel's corner is slightly rounded from use. Point width is set using a tapered stop, seen near the right rear bearing; blue tape marks the position for 20 thou point width. Small drills must be held closer to their point to avoid this problem but the ER-20 chuck then conflicts with the wheel when inclined to the secondary relief angle. The ball bearings for the traverse table work well but require frequent cleaning of grit from the table to ensure free movement. Plus it has an accurate method of setting the bit's angular position in the collet as well as a nice method of advancing the bit (unlike the Pit Bull). Use a washer (or a collar with locking set screw) between the chuck and the ball bearing plus a collar with locking set screw above the bearing. Furthermore there are also multiple plans available for each form of boat, so you have some variety to pick from.
And he has learned the craft well enough to have been invited to build doors for a Zen Buddhist temple in Japan and a presentation box for a contemplation stone given by President Clinton to the prime minister of Japan. But, we won’t judge you for wanting to leave this awesome shop crane out in the open, just so the neighbors can see it. With an included ram, chain, and hook, you’ll have everything you need to get started on your own lifting jobs right away. He knew how to make your mom laugh like no one else, and he knew how to make the perfect pancakes on Sunday morning. It includes an electric brake and the battery is interchangeable with other 18-volt Drill Master tools. The wrenches in the Pittsburgh professional-quality set are constructed of rugged chrome vanadium are triple-chrome-plated.
This grinder’s 4.5 amp ball-bearing mount motor delivers 11,000 RPMs for fast stock removal.
And if Dad’s left without power after a storm or other occurrence, this will keep him going with whatever he needs to power. It should be noted that exact matches weren’t always found, so I substituted the closest comparison available. Capacity 5-Drawer Rolling Tool Cart, which housed the Pittsburgh Professional 301-Piece Mechanic’s Tool Kit. You could get the job done with a 29-Gallon Tank Unit, but if you can swing it, go for a 60-Gallon Compressor, with power to spare. An Engine Cylinder Hone will de-glaze the cylinder walls and give them a nice, smooth finish. Well, for starters, if you’re new to this kind of project, the MIG is the easiest to learn.
The drawing calls for a single bolt in the center to lock the main quadrant but the picture shows two holes; I followed the picture.
These collets have a taper on both ends and the pin vise includes a tapered brass piece on the upper end so both ends collapse simultaneously as the knurled nut is tightened. This sharpener produces a conical point and is adjustable to handle several common point angles as well as various relief angles. The chuck holder can be simply picked up to evaluate progress, then replaced on these pins. The modified split is angled more than a regular split point and its edge is undercut to provide positive rake. Point splitting is done at the secondary point angle by first rotating the drill on its axis.
Catch the bottom end of the spring with the cross pin, then fit the bearing and collar which will capture this pin. File a shallow notch in line with the groove; not too deep - ensure the retaining ring makes contact so the key won't move. But Swensson, who works in a basement shop in Baltimore and calls himself "an experimental woodworker," is constantly seeking new challenges. Not to mention, your impressive frugality for spending just $179.99 on an item that retails for double that elsewhere! They also come with high visibility markings for quick and easy socket selection, a quick-release ratchet with reversible 72-tooth gearing and a comfy cushion grip. Each tap and die is constructed of long-lasting alloy steel and the sizes are embedded in, not printed on, the surfaces. It also has a spindle lock for fast and easy wheel changes, easy access brushes, a removable side handle, an easy-to-replace carbon brush and aluminum gear housing. The #4 industrial copper booster cables include durable alligator clips that can easily attach to any car battery, and the jumper’s got a built-in 3.6 watt light to illuminate his sight under the hood, making this a perfect jump companion to have on the road! With a free speed of 6,500 RPM, this impact wrench is a powerhouse for tightening or loosening nuts and bolts!
By the way, the Die Grinder is great for polishing the inside of the head ports, cleaning up metal and using with a cut-off wheel to repair panels.
Also, they work with the most common types of metals, overhead welding is easier, and the MIG welder works fast. Also, when removing considerable material from a drill it may be necessary to adjust the drill bit in the vise to maintain the desired orientation of the flutes to the vise. The obvious solution is to add facets to form "Secondary Point Angles" which removes the chip and should make it less likely to chip again - see the next picture. All 4 facets automatically meet at the center of the drill when the sharpener is correctly aligned. Using a 135A° spotting drill for a 118A° following drill avoids this - the drill point will touch first and locate into the bottom of the divot. Depending on the build method used it is possible for rotation to be several degrees different from 180, causing the chips to differ considerably between the two sides of a drill after sharpening. Once parallel the chuck lock is used to hold it in place, then the index ring is rotated against the stop, lifted up away from the chuck a few thou and locked to the chuck. Their result was surprisingly good, better than any hand sharpened drill I had come across, as judged by beginning grinding on my jig and looking at symmetry. Not a problem the way I use the sharpener but when sharpening an index of 30 drills it takes hours. Tiny drills generally prefer high RPM so bear this in mind when using the sensitive drill chuck. While continuing to make pieces in the Japanese vein, he has also learned the techniques of green woodworking-building Appalachian ladderback chairs with traditional European chairmakers tools-Swedish carving, English pipe-organ building, and Swiss coopering.
In fact, pick up a Drill Master 18V NiCd Replacement Battery along with it, so when Dad’s on a roll, he’ll never have to stop to charge! An awesome set, believe me, and it beats paying hundreds for those big name brand sets off the tool trucks. It also comes with an invaluable power supply for electrical equipment in case of an emergency, such as a C-PAP, spotlight, air pump, etc.
It should also be pointed out that not all the listed competitors carry all the tools used in the project.
Derek Brown's four facet drill sharpener is easier to build and quickly sharpens small drills very well; both are described below, as is using the inexpensive sharpener for larger drills.
Derek Brown's four facet sharpener produces fixed relief angles of 10A° and 25A° although the fixture is easily modified to produce any two selected relief angles - however, once selected they are fixed forever.
This hand powered Four Facet Sharpener works very well for small drills; for those who would like to build one and can't find Derek's articles I have provided enough info here to allow construction.
It can take longer to put the drill in the collet and align the flutes vertically than it does to sharpen it (but see the alignment gadget below). As noted, the movable part of the fence is from HMWP, where the article suggested Tufnol or hardened steel. I am at a loss to explain how Duplex and other sources settled on the 9 o'clock position; my experience is that the results are better if the 9 o'clock position is avoided. Secondary Point Angles (SPAs) can be added to extend drill life, improve hole finish and minimize the exit burr on through-drilled holes. My design differs in concept from anything I've seen but seems accurate and reasonably quick (for 0.035HP) - broken drills need to be reshaped prior to sharpening because of the low power available. The area where the plastic grips the table gets polished but doesn't seem to wear in normal use. Plastics can heat the drill more than expected so check often and adjust drill speed to minimize heating.
The chuck lock is released and the chuck holder rotated so the index pin is against the other side of the ring. This unit practically begs for a ball handle so I added one but haven't updated the picture yet.
This slide show gives a brief tour of Swensson's career, and a sense of his remarkable mastery and versatility.
For the home workshop and auto shop; thread plastic, wood, brass, and even plate steel– everything from an aluminum frame to a hardened steel bumper! Note that few commercial sharpeners handle small drills (under 0.100") and those that do are quite expensive so this four facet sharpener is easily the best option for sharpening small drills in the home shop. Reduced relief is helpful in reducing chatter and hogging in, often a problem when using inexpensive drill presses because the minimum speed is higher than desirable for many drilling tasks.
Centering the chisel is a judgment call where a couple strokes on the shorter side generally does the trick.
Set the part that supports the bottom end of the bit so the bit just touches the (stationary) wheel; use a square to set the bottom lip perpendicular. Users need to control feed rate with normal drills when their point is split, similar to when following a pilot hole. A center drill, especially one with a broken tip, is easily converted to a spotting drill with the characteristics suggested here. The chuck is locked and the DTI is used to verify that this side of the chuck holder is now parallel to the vise front edge.
Spotting drills should be used only to produce a divot smaller than their diameter; if the drill penetrates then the following drill's lip can catch on the edge of the hole rather than the tip locating into the divot.
The drill sizes specified for this are: 42, 49, 55 and 68 -- I didn't make the smallest collet (yet). This shows the end and side views; note the slot for the pin vise goes from upper right to lower left - this is true for both slots in a block. They're still very happy with the drills I sharpened - they are staying sharp longer than the drills they hand sharpen plus they indicated the drills with the SPA are "more stable" in operation, i.e. Deburring was easier and faster on these larger collets than on the smaller collets from the Four Facet Sharpener.
Cross drill slightly above this for a pin to hold the lower end of the spring - I used a 0.042 bit. This collet and pin vise work really well, little force is needed to solidly lock a drill in place. Make a little top hat with an OD couple thou less than the OD of the body; turn the narrow part to fit into the body, slit the narrow section as shown in the picture and cross drill for a pin to hold the top end of the spring.



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