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After some cleaning, adjusting (the belt had almost zero tension on it and needs to be replaced anyway), removing of a few "accessories" installed by the PO, it's an awesome cutting machine. It came with a pair of what I think are Lenox variable tpi blades and I want to buy a couple new ones with a higher tooth count.
I picked up an old bandsaw at a garage sale last week that is in less than perfect working order.
Since I took those pictures I have taken everything apart except for the middle gearbox pulley, upper drive shaft, and the gear box itself. I was able to remove the broken roll pin remnants from the clutch rod with a hammer and some punches. In order to remove the shaft from the large drive gear inside the housing, I turned the housing on its side, wheel side up, put a piece of 2x4 onto the end of the shaft and leaned as much of my weight onto as I could. Now I just have to put the whole thing back together and see if my efforts are going to pay off! If anyone had the patience to read, look, and watch through all of that and has some advice or answers for me, I would be very appreciative. I read your blog about the 28-3C0 and watched the 3 videos with great interest as I purchased one just like yours, with 6" extension, yesterday.

Let me know if you are looking for any more information or assistance and I promise I will be more responsive this time! With more than 10.6 million unique visitors over the last year, Practical Machinist is the most visited site for metalworking professionals. Designed for all types of wood cutting, including contours, our Premium bandsaw blades feature a spring tempered high carbon steel blade with induction re-hardened teeth to 62HRC, providing decreased production times, better surface finish, increased fatigue resistance and longer blade life.
High carbon steel body hardened and tempered to 45 Rockwell C Hardness withstands greater cutting pressures and optimises fatigue strength. When we first tested these new blades we couldn't believe the high cutting speed compared to a standard blade. Sign up to our e-mail news service and we’ll keep you up to date with our products, special offers and any demonstration days in you area.
The stamp on the model plate lists it as a 28-3C0, but between my internet research turning up almost nothing on that model and the Delta folks telling me that's not a real model number yesterday, I've come to the conclusion that this is actually a 28-300 and that the C is a poorly stamped 0. I was able to pull the clutch rod out with some effort and determine how it works and how all of the pieces I had fit together. I didn't keep up with the post on this forum because I got more responses over at Old Woodworking Machines (
You're now following Band Saws in your eBay Feed.You will receive email alerts for new listings. Furthermore the high cutting speed was achieved without any compromise on the finish.  After longer testing it was noticeable that the cutting edge remained sharp long after standard 'unground' blades would have blunted.
Unfortunately, someone in the past treated the clutch quite badly and actually broke off both of the actuating pins in the clutch rod.

Once free, I removed the shaft and the gear and I was able to completely disassemble the shaft and clean up all of its parts.
The exterior pin is long gone, save the remaining chunk in the rod, but the interior pin is still inside the gearbox assembly and I was able to engage it yesterday with a slightly-bent, long screw. The large gear has a threaded ring holding the bearing in place that I had to fabricate a tool to remove. I have been shooting videos of the work and my questions as I go and have them on youtube at the following links.
I'm attaching a couple of pictures of the saw as it existed before I started taking things apart. At long last, I was looking at the large bearing that I had initially thought to be shot, and indeed it was! The replacement cost about $22 and I'm hunting down someone with an arbor press to remove and replace the old with the new. I'm going to replace the two smaller bearings that mount the shaft into the main housing for good measure, though I think they're in good shape at this point. For the sake of anyone who is interested or trying to tackle the same project in the future, I laid out the drive shaft assembly (with the new roll pins) and took some pictures.

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