I got this saw after becoming familiar with it while researching a SteelCity saw identical to this one (35920) at a higher cost, a lower finish, and tacky marketing by SC that put me off of that one. Assembly of the mobile base is somewhat more difficult than it should as the user manual is a bit vague about it, but using the companion parts exploded views helps a lot – also, the markings on the screws bags refers to those views and not to the user manuals figures.
While assembling – all pieces from the body frame, to the table top, and the screws, and mobile base seem to be of good quality and finish. I finally went and got some feeler gauges, since I figured if there is anything unacceptable – now would be the time to find it out and work a replacement if needed. Aligning the fence was easy as on any other T-square type fences – there are 2 set screws to skew the fence slightly to the left or right. Riving KnifeThe saw comes out of the box with a riving knife blade guard assembly as a one-piece.
Necessary Upgrade:First thing to do was to make some fence faces, I chose to use phenolic material (see my blog) and while at it, I also did a set of 6 zero clearance inserts. The saw hums nicely, and cuts through the wood smoothly and easily without much effort (where my older portable would start calling in the troops for more power) the hum stays a constant hum. The Fence moves smoothly across the table (runs on back rail with a glide UHMW bolt) and locks firmly in place. Another thing to consider which played a big part in my decision was the warranty – Ridgid has a lifetime warranty to the original owner of their powertools, now this is hard to beat. Purp, when you start cutting the phenolic for the router table, you should cut a few fence faces.
Again, congrats on the new saw, I am sure it will give you YEARS of trouble free service if it is even HALF the saw my old ridgid was. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. I thought I’d post a review of my Ridgid 4511 Granite table saw for those who are interested. 1.5 HP motor is adequate, but who couldn’t use more power (insert grunting here, ala Tim Taylor).
Regarding the front fence rail, you can add an internal spline to stiffen it, or replace the entire tube (Ithink Timbo managed that approach). I have a Steel City saw and love it but sure wish the granite top was out when I bought mine a couple of years back, as I am tired of dealing with rust on the cast iron table in my unheated, outdoor shop! I find the fence not being perfectly flat annoying, but not suprising, because as PurpLev stated, its just tubular steel.
I may try the other riving knives at some point, but I still like using the blade gaurd for now. I leave my blade guard on as well, as I feel better having the anti kickback pawls engaged on the wood.
When I exchanged my top I had to take the one they had on demo, and I helped them swap the 2 out. It's interesting to me, that as I come in here to post this, Stephan is posting about his new 3HP Steel City Granite Saw - this is it's Little Brother. There has been a lot of talk going around about this new saw - and I have been lusting after one almost since I heard about them.


With the downturn in the economy, they are not showing up at Home Depot stores as soon as previously thought, H.D. Being at the WW show, I did get a little bit of a discount - not much, but some, but the good folks at the Ridgid booth did throw in this nifty jacket.
Pardon my long-windedness, but I am in full-on New Toy Mode - and it had better hurry up & get warmer, quick! I'm toying with the idea of getting a table saw myself and seeing yours it makes me turn green of envy. I did upgrade my 22124 to a Shop Fox 1677 cabinet saw last summer when the Microsoft Cashback coincided with a 10% Ebay coupon and free shipping from Utterguys.
A few weeks ago I started a forum topic about fixing the lame fence system that came with the Ridgid 4511 Granite top table saw.
The problem with the Ridgid’s fence is that the guide tube is split and joined in the middle with a cheap plastic part. The Delta T-2 came in a large box, well packed in Styrofoam and neatly laid out with directions right on top. The problem is, while the Delta fence is sold as a replacement fence, it’s not a universal replacement, and there are not suitable adjustments to raise and lower the fence to accommodate different table saw dimensions. The other problem with using the default holes is that the Delta rail could end up blocking your miter slots. With the modified block re-installed it was dead on; the space under the fence being a good deal thinner than my combination square. To set the angle, there are two hex head screws on the back of the piece that grips the guide. To set the vertical fence angle there are two nylon set screws in the top of the piece that grips the tube.
On the other hand, if you do want to upgrade your saw, this is a good, economical way to do it. I have considered bringing a part of the Powermatic saw to a jober and having a single stage paint mixed for my 1988 saw.
Now I have to go to Riverhead NY to install my old Vega fence on my Father-in-laws Sears table saw. The ad you're trying to view is either not found or has expired and has been moved to our archives. Since the trunnion are mounted to the base, I took off the table top, and motor cover while unpacking to relieve some of the weight off of the machine while assembling it all together – this was very helpful.
I left the lag bolts loose while leveling the wings as I heard other’s had their top chip when they aligned the wings while having the bolts somewhat tightened. Also there is little dust that escapes the bottom of the cabinet (and accumulates on the mobile base).
While setting up the fence faces, and shimming the middle bolt, I’m able to align the fence with the blade continually from start to finish and eliminate that hollow in the middle of the steel fence bar. The Fence rails are made of 2 parts that are connected with a plastic coupler – makes it easier to pack this system in a smaller box, but operation wise it leaves a lot to be desired. I was able to pass the nickel-test on it, and while the nickel DID jump a little when I started the saw, it did stay in place long after the saw was running, and even after shutting the saw off.


Make sure you use appropriate riving knife thickness if you use a thin kerf blade (or at least have the front of it sharpened down)!!! We elect new Moderators every April and October and vote on any new or revised forum rules.
I found Rust-Oleum Professional Primer (7582 Gray Primer) to be as close as I could find, just a touch darker. Question: Are the front and rear rails the same length on the T2, and on your saw, how many inches does the angle iron stick out to the right? I have the Craftsman version of that saw (221160) or very close to it and will be ordering this fence system. And unfortunately I tend to be somewhat of a hand-ringer hope to recover from this illness!
Zero clearance inserts are a must in my opinion both for safety, and better quality cuts, and should be done on any saw you have regardless.
The table top is large, and the distance in front of the blade is much larger than I had been used to which is a blessing. I like the idea that it can be converted to run on 220V as well if I ever choose to go that route. As for the recall, I was treated very well by Steel City customer service but since yours is sold by One World Technologies, I hope they do as well for you if yours is involved in the recall. The gap for the adjustment wheels, and over the motor housing door will provide plenty of flow. Since it is a primer I sprayed the rail with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel (7701 Crystal Clear ) I’m happy with the results.
I recieved the front rail and guide tube for this saw, the rear rail is on back order till feb 22nd. Lol more like hand ringing and in depth reading and research on things I tackle but I do like to tinker and making the T2 fit looks pretty straight forward.
Like you the power of the saw is fine for my needs, and for me as a hobby person to woodworking, at this point anyway I doubt I would need more.
As I said just a touch darker but with the rails separated you can’t see the difference. Or if you are not in a rush and can wait for HD to have a major sale you might even be able to get a bigger discount.
After almost ten years of use, when I sold it, it would still pass the nickle test with the factory belt it came with. Which doesn’t matter other than I considered using the fence body on the rails of this saw that way the bolt holes fit.
So you could consider installing UHMW plastic on the bottom to slide on the table and remove the rear rail if you want. I have both open grate wings ( covered with laminate ) on the right side of the table saw since I have a solid router wing on the left side.



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