I've had a lot projects in partial completion but this particular one turned into a must finish situation. John, bad question and leaving yourself wide open.Are you wanting to go into interplantary travel, as in Star Trek, or more earthly things ? I will spare all the details here and I will just say that in 2014 I learned tons about how to properly drive motors and more efficiently.
Overall this topic will mainly be about the 18v drill motor LEGO conversion so to start it off I want to show a video time line of some my previous projects with my first drill motor.
Looks great! Also, what's the easiest way to increase voltage, using only PF parts? If an XL motor can shatter gears and twist axles, then i'd hate to see what a high-torque drill motor could do.
Now that I got the drill back together I've been doing some torque test with the axle threaded in the drill and see if I can engage the spring slip clutch on the drill.
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Features: This Lightweight heavy-duty drill maintains height power and low air consumption. The trigger is high on the handle, as per usual, with a sliding button just behind it that gives you the directional option, forward or reverse. Right on the top there is the gear change, which is a sliding button, push it forward or back for hammer or normal. The trigger is what they call a variable speed one, which basically means that if you press it gently the motor turns slowly, press it hard and you get full speed ahead. I like the fact that this has an electrical brake system as this means that when I release the trigger the chuck stops spinning. This one runs of a Ni-Cd battery, which is a shame as a Li-Ion battery would have made this a cracking drill.


There was a previous drill motor that was given to me but that motor was a little to big to fit in between the 1x7 liftarm spacing which the XL motor is design to fit in between.
Doing this can increase voltage up to 14-18 volts but this depend on how strong the batteries are.
I'm going to keep everything on this drill to see if I can potentially use down the road with the Motor conversion in some way. Both motors are practically identical which is awesome because that means this motor LEGO conversion will work. Interesting thing to make note of is the motor shaft, it is in the shape of a D instead of an O. Right now the quick and easy way to attached the drill with LEGO is by threading an Axle into the revers threads. I already have one 18V motor motor fitted with LEGO as it stands but some wire upgrading is in order for it to function with the 18V battery so it doesn't get hot. The GPD-231 Air Drilling Machine can replace the Magnetic Drilling Machine, the Magnetic Drilling Machine can be only used on iron material. It is the stadard gun shape with the battery on the base of the handle that adds that extra weight and can be stood up on the battery.
Then, just behind that, is the 16 torque settings which give you more control when it comes to using this drill as a screwdriver. There's nothing worse than a drill that carries on drilling through something for a few seconds after you've asked it to stop.??? But nonetheless, the power on this is pretty good, plus, you get a spare battery in the box, and, as these batteries can be charged in an hour, there's a constant power of screwing and drilling with very few breaks.
I have already experience that in my own way but I never really concluded it to the alkaline batteries but more to the inefficiency of the motor driver circuit I built. I certainly need to keep the battery plug but the variable speed trigger will be a tough one to figure out in a RC setup. I have know idea if the is even possible, However, 900 rpm sounds great but here is the deal doing this will make the motor longer then a 1x15 Technic beam. The big difference is that with the LEGO one, the planetary ring gear is directly connected with the motor so the motor has one constant power output, however with the Drill planetary ring gear, it is held down by friction created by an adjustable spring clutch pack. This D shape increases the difficulty in perfectly fixing an axle connector to its motor shaft.
This works and centers the axle perfectly with out the need for JB but this will make the motor very large to mount with LEGO longer than a 1x15 Technic beam.


Turns out that the threading the axle in the drill is not really perfect after running it with the drill. I am sure the lads could come up with all sorts of answers with a slight nudge in the required direction.
My first 18v drill motor project had tons of problems to over come and for a long time at first the motor was not even able to be power with LEGO 9V PF system.
Removing the Spring clutch pack from the drill will remove all power flow out from the motor drive shaft and the ring gear will now need to be held in place by some other means.
If the motor shaft was an O shape this would have been an quick and easy conversion with the axle connector if the shaft was the right diameter. With both advanced technology and 40 years experience, GISON always make sure to meet each customer's demand. Or do you just want to use them for the sake of it, and any suggestion will do?I think making a reduction gearbox for an electric drill is a bit too obvious.
This was a major problem for me and ultimately I didn't quite know enough on how to drive a DC motors with electronics. I will just say that this motor driver here I made works from the regular 7-9 volts the LEGO Battery box can supply but however the XL motor mod has a switching DC power supply that can step up the 7-9 volts from the battery box to 12 volts for this XL motor mod to work off of. Well I would check the voltage in those batteries along with the voltage begin supplied to the motor by the motor driver and there was about 3-5 volts of voltage loss between the two and that is not good but it was good enough for me at the time. Looks like i have no choice with this one I'm going down the second route this one Now the main problem is figuring out how to connect this planetary gearbox precisely up with Lego.
If you look at the pic of it installed on the mill you can see the unused dual groove pulley under the gearbox.The dual belts are removed from the gearbox and installed on that pulley.
So I moved on to my next motor project which was a stepper motor and was more efficient that it could be driven with the LEGO V1 PF system.
This missing volts was the real driving force that forced me to figure out how to make the motor driver more efficient. It didn't take long for me to figure out how to drive a motor with electronics, there are lots of good YouTube videos out there that got me started but ultimately how to properly drive this 18v drill motor with LEGO was still far from perfect. My first motor driver had several mistakes however LEGO was able to still make it work but still those problems needed to be understood and corrected so I can make improvements and make it work better.



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