Well, I’ll have to pull out that old corded drill with the busted keyless chuck and see what I can do.
Awesome- I have a Milwaukee right angle drill with a frozen chuck that was given to me as a freebie when I bought an old saw a few years ago.
Drill presses usually have a taper not threaded mount, so you’ll need a pickling fork or a prybar, you can also rebuild(clean and regrease) the chucks on larger drill presses by pressing the sleeve off, I recommend indexing the jaws to their housing with an awl to make sure they go back in the same place. Anyone know how & where I can obtain info about how to rebuild a few small Jacobs Chucks key types??? May I trouble someone to tell me the proper removal of the chuck on an older Delta Rockwell drillpress Catalog 15-000. Old Wood Working Machines is a wonderful site to find out info and ask questions about older machines. I never thought about using a hex key, I used a visegrip when I tried to remove the keyless chuck on my drill. I have a Makita 6404 corded drill that I put a Jacobs keyless chuck on many years ago – shortly after I bought it. I’ve undone the screw in my keyless chuck but the screw just keeps turning and does not seam to want to come out any ideas please?
I’ve been having the same trouble as many of the other commenters regarding the removal of the chuck retaining screw on a couple of my air drills (an Astro pneumatic and a cornwell). Charlie R { Conductive hook and loop tape was used extensively in the Space Shuttle program for temporarily installed protective covers on the SRB booster segments. Chris { Rumor has it harbor freight was forced to discontinue the machine for patent issues. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 3DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR BASICS 3-1(a) "GREEN" PLUGSDON'T use them on refrigerators. The Harrison family moved to Dayton in the summer of 1953, where Dave attended Van Cleve Elementary School.
After completing the 8th grade at Van Cleve in the spring of 1958, Dave spent eight weeks at a summer camp in Maine.
As the years progressed, Dave became increasingly more involved in all the instrumental groups in CWa€™s music department. Upon graduation in 1962, he enrolled at the University of Cincinnati College Conservatory of Music, where he majored in music education.
During his college years in Cincinnati, he kept in close contact with the DeVelbiss family. He served as the Little Colonel director at band camp in the summers of a€™63, a€™64, and a€?65, spending everyday on the practice field with the block, perfecting routines and polishing techniques.
That first summer the Colonels nicknamed him a€?Tootsie Rolla€?, because that was his expression, instead of a€?Cheese!a€? to remind the girls to smile while performing. As a former CW band member, Dave thought he knew and understood the Little Colonels, but says today, a€?No one could really know them, until youa€™d worked with them all those long, hot days at band camp. Elsewhere in the music department, traditions started by Jack DeVelbiss continued under Davea€™s direction.
Now, as he looks back on those years as a mere 22-year-old, Dave says he was handed a lot of responsibility with the expectation of producing great results.
But perhaps Davea€™s most memorable time at TM came in 1978, when the band and Rockettes drill team were invited to participate in the National Pageant of Bands in Phoenix, Arizona. Later that year, and much to Davea€™s surprise, he was offered the music directora€™s position at Pleasant Valley High School, a wealthy suburb of Phoenix, Arizona.
Today, Davea€™s odyssey with the Little Colonels continues, and this time age doesna€™t matter. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running.
The main reason for it is that the holes get full of dirt and the pinof the key does not get far enough into the hole and the tip of the gears get damaged. While at Van Cleve, he was a dedicated member of the Boy Scouts of America, eventually earning the rank of Eagle Scout; and where he also learned to play the trombone. As a result, he missed Colonel Whitea€™s very first band camp at Earlham College, and when school began, he was an alternate in the marching band directed by a€?Mr.
It was a fitting choice for Dave, since he had enjoyed such a successful high school musical career, and had come to appreciate what he had learned from Jack DeVelbiss. And since his own family had moved to Grandville, Michigan in 1964, Dave often stayed at the DeVelbiss home on week-ends, while teaching private lessons or playing in local bands in the Dayton area. D was looking for a new Little Colonel director for band camp to replace Dick Patzel who could no longer continue in that position He didna€™t have to look any farther than his own living room. And anytime Dave rode the Colonel bus, it was a sure bet the girls would eventually break into song with their version of a€?Harrigana€? from Yankee Doodle Dandy - with a little liberty in the spelling: a€?H-A-double R-I-S-O-N spells Harrison!
All these years later, I can still remember the tremendous pride, work ethic and the special a€?culturea€? of the Little Colonels. It was the highest profile performance in which any Colonel White band and Little Colonel unit had ever participated.
Later that year, he and Nancy were married on November 25th, because it was Davea€™s first weekend without a half-time show!
Da€™s student teacher from Miami University, who came to band camp in a€™64 and went to Detroit with everyone that December. His thesis, a€?A Study of Seven Successful Secondary Music Programs in Small Cities and Suburbs in Western Ohio and Eastern Indianaa€? became the stepping stone to his next job.
D to lead the Trotwood-Madison band at the dedication of Sinclair Community Collegea€™s new home in downtown Dayton. If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate. With practice and the right tools this is very quick and easy, I could have the chuck off and the case open on a Makita 6095D in about 2 minutes. When I tried to take the chuck off to put a new one on I tried everything until I had it in pieces. He became so much a part of their family that the DeVelbiss kids referred to him as their Uncle Charlie. D, Dave, and the Colonels all realized the importance of keeping a professional working relationship between the director and the block. Harrison!a€? Without fail, Dave would blush and shake his head, and the Colonels would break into applause and laughter. You really had to experience it to know what it was: like weigh-ins, salt tablets and the smell of Ben Gay . He claims he did briefly contemplate getting married on the field at Welcome Stadium during half-time with the band and Little Colonels present, but thought Nancy might consider a church wedding more appropriate. Keith and Dave would work closely together in the years to come when they both were high school music directors in Dayton - Keith at Belmont and Dave at Colonel White.
In 1967 and 1969, he directed the Colonel White Capers - a spring variety show featuring individual vocal and dance numbers. He left Colonel White in the spring of that year to become the assistant director at Trotwood-Madison, which had a much larger music department than Colonel White. Along with the usual fundraisers, was Davea€™s idea of a€?pole sittinga€? in a custom-built band wagon, atop a telephone pole, over Labor Day Weekend. You really had to experience it to know what it was:A  like weigh-ins, salt tablets and the smell of Ben Gay . I cannot figure out what kind of screw (if any) is down in there, and nothing I tried, or try, seems to help get the thing off. It’s now July 2012, You posted back in November 2011, STILL no responses… Anyone? Because I saw it happen, I was later asked to identify them.a€? And so began Davea€™s long odyssey with the Little Colonels, one he could have scarcely imagined at the time. Dave graduated from Cincinnati in June of a€?66, applied for the job and became the second director in the schoola€™s history. I was up on top of the van to watch the practice, and when I went to jump down, my coat got caught on the open door of the van and I fell off and landed on my shoulder a€“ really hurt it. Also in a€™69, the Little Colonels took first place in the Greater Dayton Drill Team Invitational, with Marita Brookley as head Colonel. A music parent who worked for the phone company made the arrangements, and Dave soon found himself perched high above the crowd in Madison Park that weekend. Many schools were even hiring outsiders to work with their different groups, like the drill teams. Now I’ve got a piece of the chuck attached to the drill somehow, with some kind of screw probably stripped down in there,and no jaws left to clamp to a 90 degree hex wrench.
Harrison, but that didna€™t keep the girls from good-naturedly kidding him from time to time - respectfully, of course. People pledged all sorts of money for the stunt, and some even paid to have the Trotwood fire department lift them up to shake Davea€™s hand.
Also, Stan was so inspired by the Little Colonels that he modeled a younger girlsa€™ drill team after them, and named them the Little Majors.
The wrecker came and it got stuck, and we had to call another wrecker to get the first wrecker, and the van, out of the mud,a€? laughs Dave. This fundraiser and others helped raise more than $100,000 to charter a plane and send the band and drill team, uniforms and instruments, and staff and chaperones to Arizona.
Fortunately, Keith and some other staff members were still there, but just as fortunately for Dave, the students had all gone home.
The school took second place in the pageant on December 16th, and the parade segment was shown on national television on New Yeara€™s Day before the Fiesta Bowl. You can find them in the Yellow Pages under the following headings: APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. If the washer is in poor condition, then purchase another one as this fitting must be re-installed later.
If an adapter was not supplied with your new unit then you will need to identify the make and possibly the model of the faucet to order one.
Adapters are normally available from any full service plumbing supply or large hardware store.2. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath, "guide" you to their service department.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself and you find that you can't fix the problem, they may be a really good place to look for service. Ensure that the washer in the top of the diverter valve is also lightly lubricated and positioned flat.4. Think about it if they sold you this book, then they're genuinely interested in helping do-it-yourselfers!When you go into the store, have ready your make, model and serial number from the nameplate of the fridge (not from some sticker inside the fridge). If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control. This will be an incomplete model number, but it is better than nothing and it should be good enough to get most parts with. If all else fails, check the original papers that came with your fridge when it was new. They should contain the model number SOMEWHERE. If you have absolutely NO information about the fridge anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. Once the valve is screwed on finger tight, then a pair of pliers can be used to snug it up.
The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments. You can use elastic bands to hold the hose tight to the faucet so that it remains out of the way.6.
This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur. The original aerator fitting removed from the faucet can now be installed on the bottom of the diverter valve in the same fashion as mentioned above. These fittings can be in very bad condition due to their age and exposure to different minerals in the water.
Unscrew the sump (white portion) from the head (gyre base) and lubricate the black "o" ring in the sump with Vaseline (never use mineral oil). Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below. If the threaded end cap of the ceramic has a retainer holding the large black washer in place then remove the retainer.8. Gently thread the ceramic into the base until it is snugly seated onto the large black washer. It is a long, stiff-bristled brush especially made for knocking out massive wads of dust from your condenser grille.
I have seen jury-rigged bottle brushes and vacuums used, neither of which clean sufficiently.

Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11). Inspect for leaks around the diverter valve faucet connection and the aerator connection.11. Pull on the diverter valve stem (sending water to the filter housing) and again inspect for any leaks from the diverter valve connections or the sump "o" ring. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge. While observing, rotate the filter unit onto each side so that the top of the sump is held lower than the head (gray section).
Remember the rule in section 3-4 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. This will allow excess air to escape from inside the unit enabling it to work more efficiently. They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. For example, if there's a 50 setting and a 250 setting on the VAC dial, use the 250 scale, because 250 is the lowest setting over 120 volts. Touch the two test leads to the two metal contacts of a live power source, like a wall outlet or the terminals of the motor that you're testing for voltage. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan. To service a counter top system, ceramic cleaning or cartridge replacement, place the unit into the sink.2. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source.
Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14).
Lift up the head (gray piece), with the cartridge still installed and drain off the remainder of the water.
Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem.
If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale.
If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. The exact service interval is impossible to dictate as it is the condition of the incoming water that requires the valve to be serviced.
If the heater's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. Mineral deposits and contaminants in the water will build up on the internal "O" ring seals and cause the valve to stick or become stiff to operate. If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out your VOM in microseconds and possibly shock yourself. Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the heater. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact.
If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scaleand steady on a reading. Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor. Place a single drop of liquid dish washing soap into the top of the valve and steadily operate the diverter valve stem in and out. Place several drops of liquid cooking oil (canola not olive oil) into the top of the valve and again operate the diverter valve stem.4. If the meter moves only very little and stays towards the left side of the scale, that's BAD continuity; the heater is no good. In a glass-tube or bare-element heater, you may be able to see the physical break in the heater element, just like you can in some light bulbs. If you are testing a switch or a thermostat, you will show little or no resistance (good continuity) when the switch or thermostat is closed, and NO continuity when the switch is open. If you do not, the switch is bad.3-3(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one.
The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core. Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment. For small one to three stage systems, select a suitable location for the filter housing(s) under the kitchen sink or on the under sink doors. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the magnetic field it produces around the wire. The ammeter simply measures this magnetic field, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire.
You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). Therefore the system should be reasonably accessible to enable the sump to be unscrewed to change or clean the cartridge(s). Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws. Fit the head of the filter housing to the bracket using the 3 self-tapping screws provided (Fig A.). Ensure the bracket corresponds to the arrow on the head, indicating the direction of water flow. 3. Turn the "energy saver" switch to the "economy" position to shut off the anti-sweat mullion heaters (See section 4-1.) Close the refrigerator door to make sure the lights are off. For multi-stage units the short hose inter-connecting the head assemblies should be installed before the heads are mounted to the wall.
This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer. There may still be a tiny mullion heater energized in the butter conditioner or on the defrost drain pan, but the current that these heaters draw is negligible for our purposes (less than an amp). Select a suitable position for the location of the line piercing saddle valve on the copper (or plastic) COLD water line leading to the main faucet. If you don't, the defrost heater or terminating thermostat is probably defective.3-4 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any refrigerator that you're disassembling.
If you need to re-energize the refrigerator to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated.
It must also be accessible enough to allow for isolation of the filter during cleaning or replacement of the cartridge(s). 5.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 2) NEVER EVER chip or dig out ice from around the evaporator with a sharp instrument or knife.
You WILL PROBABLY puncture the evaporator and you WILL PROBABLY end up buying a new refrigerator.
Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis. If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it. If you use a blow dryer, take care not to get water in it and shock yourself.Better yet, if you have the time and patience, leave the fridge open for a few hours and let the ice melt naturally.
Slide the valve around the line and tighten the securing bolt until it butts up firmly against the sleeve. You can remove large, loose chunks of ice in the evaporator compartment by hand, but make sure there aren't any electrical wires frozen into the chunks of ice before you start pulling them. 3) Always re-install any removed duck seal, heat shields, styrofoam insulation, or panels that you remove to access anything. They're there for a reason. 4) You may need to empty your fridge or freezer for an operation.
If you do not have another fridge (or a friend with one) to keep your food in, you can generally get by with an ice chest or a cardboard box insulated with towels for a short time.
Never re-freeze meats; if they've already thawed, cook them and use them later. 5) If this manual advocates replacing a part, REPLACE IT!! There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19). There is a reason that it stopped you can bet on it and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again.
Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern. Select a suitable position for the faucet as close to the sink edge as practical, but ensuring access from the underside to enable installation of the mounting hardware and hose. 10. Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator. Replace the part. 6) Refrigerator defrost problems may take a week or more to reappear if you don't fix the problem the first time. Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem.
That's how long it will take the evaporator to build up enough frost to block the airflow again. After fixing a defrost problem, keep an eye out for signs of a recurrence for at least a week. The sooner you catch it, the less ice you'll have to melt. 7) You may stop the compressor from running using the defrost timer or cold control, by cutting off the power to the fridge, or simply by pulling the plug out of the wall. If your filter has John Guest fittings, disregard the references to figure D hardware and procedures. 12. However, if you try to restart it within a few minutes, it may not start; you may hear buzzing and clicking noises.
If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem.
The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle.
If the system has not had enough time for the pressure within to equalize, there will be too much back pressure in the system for the compressor motor to overcome when trying to start. Push the other end of the hose into the "John Guest Push-Fit" connector on one end of the Ball Valve. Simply remove the power from the compressor for a few more minutes until the compressor will restart. 8) Do not lubricate any of the timers or motors mentioned in this manual.
If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker.
Using a separate three (3) inch piece of hose (cut from the remaining stock) push one end into the Ball Valve and the other into the John Guest fitting in the head. In a cold environment, oil will become more viscous and increasefriction, rather than decrease it.
This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements. Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized.
Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time.
Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door. Lubricate this washer and the "O" ring in the top of the sump with a small amount of "Vaseline" or any equivalent petroleum jelly. Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal. It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions.

Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under.
The cartridge should butt up and slightly compress the washer, but it does not have to be tightened into place with anything other than wrist pressure. 18. Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights. For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes. While closely observing for leakage, slowly open (counter clockwise) the saddle valve fully and then the Ball Valve (in-line with hose). 20. Lift the faucet lever up to lock it in the fully open position to discharge the air from the system. 21.
Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. Let the system run for 1 to 2 minutes to flush out any loose carbon (black) dust left over from manufacturing. 22. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself and you find that you can't fix the problem, they may be a really good place to look for service.
Think about it if they sold you this book, then they're genuinely interested in helping do-it-yourselfers!When you go into the store, have ready your make, model and serial number from the nameplate of the fridge (not from some sticker inside the fridge). The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2. The ceramic cartridge may be removed and cleaned by turning ON the drinking water faucet (to release the water pressure) and then turning off the water supply to the filter. To shut off the water, turn the John Guest Ball Valve shut-off 90degrees to the hose, or if your unit does not use a ball valve shut-off then turn the T handle of the SV2002 saddle valve at the cold water connection CLOCKWISE until the water flow stops.
The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end.
Place a shallow pail under the sump when removing it as it is full of water and a small amount may spill. The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. Remember the ceramic is very fragile and will not withstand force being applied to the side of the element.
Using a stiff brush, or scouring pad, scrub the outer surface of the ceramic under running water until it returns to a uniform off white colour (yellow tint). If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much.
If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater.
Note: Never use soaps, detergents, bleach, or any other chemical during the cleaning process. The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature. In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer. Inspect the large rubber washer at the base of the mounting threads for any signs of damage. The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad.
If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat. Hand tighten the sump to the head, slowly turn on the John Guest ball valve or the saddle valve, and let the system flush for 1 minute. 8. At the recommended replacement timing [refer to the specification sheet for your cartridge(s)], follow all of the above steps except for the cleaning phase.
It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils. Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings. If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man.
DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems. The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work.
If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees.
If the heater's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice. In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord. Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers. If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the magnetic field it produces around the wire.
Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes. Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater. Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place.
The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work.
The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4. Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head.
Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head. That's how long it will take the evaporator to build up enough frost to block the airflow again.
The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head. Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head.
Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY. If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat.
Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism. However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly. Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow. Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate. Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book. If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer.
Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat. The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater. These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer. Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps.
Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad. Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad. Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system.
Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point. UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch. If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT.
I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis. Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which. These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty. COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective. To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb.
The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.

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