Top-selling hand forging safety window grill design, View safety window grill design, LONGBON Product Details from Guangzhou Longbang Metal Products Co., Ltd. Top-selling hand forging modern iron grill door designs, View iron grill door designs, LONGBON Product Details from Guangzhou Longbang Metal Products Co., Ltd. Product DescriptionHand holds or grab irons allow mobility of personnel in and around railcars. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.
That sounds good, and I may bend your ear at the ABS show in San Antonio if you have a minute then.
This is a pair of forged 1 piece nickel damascus spurs I made for the Trappings of the American West show that started last weekend. Larry,The hand forged one piece thing is cool, but man you need to put something together on metal shaping.
I have looked these over several times and they are outstanding, but as a newbie I don't even feel worthy to comment! Everyone probably has a story like this one but a friend of mine that used to make anvils said an elderly lady lived on a ranch that had a blacksmith shop straight out of the 1880s it had leather bellows and everything. If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly.
Hand holds are produced from carbon steels and from stainless steels and can be manufactured in a variety of configurations. By joining our free community, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content, and access many other special features. I figured I would post these here in the hand forged thread just to keep it going and hopefully other forgers will do the same to kind of keep all forged bits and spurs together.These are California style with rooster head shanks inspired but some 18th century Spanish Colonial spurs.
You're going to split a bar and each leg of the split will be forged down to make the heel band.
It hasn't been that many years ago when a farmer would ask me to forge an eye in something because he knew the benefit of a forged eye over a drilled one. In the beginning the early McChesney's, the early Kelly's and Crockett's were hand forged, later they all as well as most of the other larger Texas Style makers went to a dropped forged spur where the spur is formed in a drop hammer between dies. All aspects of your work are amazing, but the filing to me is what really sets you apart and gives them your signature look.


I don't keep real close track of the hours but they took about 80-90 hours.Rick, I think your idea for classes is a real good one. This was done because demand was greater than their ability to supply them by hand forging them.
Adjustable hand holds are also available that allow parts to be used in an application where multiple lengths are required.
I'm new to this and am studying all the makers I can and it seems that in general you're seeing less of this file work.
It's going to be opened up there to a right angle, and there is a tendency to lose thickness in that area.
Just by taking a few hours of classes a maker can bypass a lot of the mistakes that most of us have made trying to figure this out on our own.
One end with a series of holes passes through the mating part and a pin is placed to secure the length.
Maybe there are more guys doing this than I think, but I'd love to be able to add even just a little of this to my work and skills. Shane and Jared, I think filing is mostly about making the file do what you want it to do and not just about using the shape of the file. I know it's time consuming, but in a high speed world, my hats off to a guy who can use a file and make a piece of art! The split can be done by hacksawing, bandsawing, or hot splitting with a hot cut, a hatchet-looking blacksmith tool with a wooden handle. I'll roll my file as I push it to create compound curves or modify a file to get it into the area I need to work. The brass snakes were put on with a higher temp solder from Brownells so I could blue them in my kitchen oven.
The mating portion of the hand hold can be manufactured by punching or for finer tolerances can be drilled.
The process of making the rasp spurs is very similar to the ones made from sucker rod or those of Billy Clapper.These are prior to a final clean up, but they did finish nicely. The flat area of the hand hold is also known as a mounting flange and they are typically design to be flat or flush with the mounting surface.
I would think in a 4 day class with 2 to 4 people everyone should take a completed pair of spurs home.


To split it hot, it would be helpful to do lengthwise, central layouts on both sides with a cold chisel (60? included angle).
I think as more customers find out about what goes into forged spurs the more they will appreciate them. Might at the end of the class take a couple of hours and cover a pair of Nettles Stirrups with brass or stainless. Years ago when forging was a common way to make things from steel people understood it better than them do today.
Now they are use to having things fabricated by welding pieces together but really don't know much about forging except that their great grand dad had a forge on the farm.Frank, always good info on blacksmithing. Trying to keep down on my spam After a bit of practice I would say you will be able to have a pair of spurs forged to shape and ready to take to the grinding belt in less time than it takes to set up and weld.
Go in a little more than half way from one side; then, turn it over and break through to complete the cut.
You want to have a copper, brass, or aluminum pad underneath your work when breaking through. The base of the cut will be incomplete, so you should finish the cut while the piece is held vertically in a stout vise, preferably a leg vise. You will find that is is difficult to get rid of that vanishing point; it will becom a tiny vee shape.
You can use a large ball of a ball peen hammer or the ball face of a farriers' rounding hammer. It is a tool with a handle, but it is not swung, simply placed on the cut and hammered on its striking head. In doing this, it will probably take repeated heats and you will lose some thickness in each bend. If you're a good hand at forging, you will then handle the piece with tongs while drawing out the bands and shank.



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